Working on the donor

[metalmaker12]

I would get that all sand blasted and than paint it with the Eastwood product, that rust will come back, and you will have to due it again, you can get stuff sandblasted for good prices. I got my wheels completely blasted for $100. BTW I decided to keep my STI BBS wheels and restore them,,,

PS. you can power coat forged aluminum wheels,,, there were post were someone aid that you can't, I researched it a lot you can

[RM1SepEx]

If you use the rust converter it will hold off for a while... rust is like cancer if it isn't all gone you can't stop it!

If you have a compressor a blast cabinet is a great investment. I have a small one, I have friends with bigger ones... you need a big compressor, my 5HP does not keep up.

I like eastwood products, I use their paints and powders.

I've decided to do the initial build with original WRX wheels... I'm trying to see how close to a $5,000 donor build I can do... I need to put more excess parts on EBay and Craigslist. Another set of wheels and tires can come later... soon I'll have two kids in college!

[metalmaker12]

I here ya on cost, but I went double I have about 10k in parts and i am ready to go. My donor was 2k ( no engine), my motor was 4k, and upgrade parts were 4k,I would subtract about 1k in parts I sold back so 9k so far.

Parts: OEM Hubs, bearings,seals, inner and outer tie rods, boots, Front dust shields, Centric Cryo brake rotors, Stop Tech performance pads, 4pot group N calipers Front and 2pot rears, Kartboy rear mount kit, Sti rear lateral links with Tic bushings, Front Sti lower control arms, (Sti jdm Version 8 cluster, Sti Version 8 Engine and intercooloer, jdm downpipe), Koyo Radiator, Act Stage 1 clutch, Wrx flywheel, alternator only belt, To Buy, or do (will be tig welding custom intake), Crawford oil catch can, a fuel pump set up, once I get the final parts needed from FFR. Get wheels powder coated soon and something I will forget.

Donor: 02 wrx: Cluster, Wire harness's, Steering column, steering rack( De-powered), Brake booster with master, clutch master cyl, pedal set, throttle cable, sti bbs 5x100's, 5spd tranny, Oem radiator fans and radiator, front and rear spindles and rear lower control arms, I might be missing something, but I sold a lot of stuff. I sandblasted my rack spindles and rear lower control arms and used Eastwood paint, worked great, and been looking good for months now.

[Mechie3]

A lot of people actually ditch the dust shields (fronts unbolt, rears chisel off) for weight savings. Others say that it also allows more airflow if you're not using brake ducting. I didn't have my fronts on for the last 5 years with no issues.

Edit: Any recommendations for a good, but relatively inexpensive sand blast cabinet? I have a 26 gal compressor (can't recall hp off the top of my head). I could also likely take it to work and just set it up there on the shop air. My friend had a benchtop harbor freight unit once, but it leaked dust like crazy. Reviews say that caulking it up helps immensely.

[wallace18]

I got a nice one for the money from Harbor Freight. Eastwood has a chassis paint with rust inhibit in it. You must use a brush but it came out nice on my suspension pieces. Rust belt cars will take extra care. Mine was from Michigan and I had to replace many bolts and such. It sounds like a few of us are really close to ready. I hope FFR takes that into consideration come kit time.

[RM1SepEx]

seal it before you use it, there is about zero technology in a blast cabinet and sand blaster. I do big stuff with a stand alone, plastic tub type from Harbor freight. I use play sand and an old Israeli gas mask on a tarp... works great when it gets empty pour the sand back through the strainer and start again. Mine is 20 years old but similar to this one... Item #37025

Their 40 lb cabinet should work just fine

Metalmaker12, did you fully depower the rack or loop the hose?

Budget: I bought a 70K donor so it wouldn't "need" drivetrain reconditioning... I did do a bunch of stuff that were technically not needed for some sense of comfort and to increase esthetics, I could have just plugged in the existing drivetrain as everything there looked just fine. I replaced my timing belts, tensioners, pumps, header, light flywheel, new clutch & PP, powder coating brackets, oil pan etc... rotors, hawk pads, seals, etc

Due to donor condition: I had to replace one LCA, I chose to use two used STI arms, I had to replace the rear lateral links, one damaged wheel and the rack & pinion, one front wheel bearing and seals

I'm working on selling off stuff that isn't needed, should have done it sooner, it is an ongoing process

Many have IDed that they though the Factory 5 "KIt for $10K and a $5K donor" quote was bunk, that is far from true.

Right now I have a net $5122 invested, including $1500 in parts that did not need to be replaced or reconditioned. I do plan on adding the Quaife to the transaxle this month. That will add $1600 + to my spending. I'm still selling "extra" parts and can see between $700 - $1000 more in parts sales from interior pieces, the center diff, the driveshaft, original exhaust etc...

The end result shows that it isn't difficult at all to build a low mileage , WRX based 818, using stock wheels. (I'm staggering them so I included two new, larger 225 rear tires to go with the 7/32 tread Dunlop Dirrezas that were on the car.)

I'll have to buy fluids etc... I'll allot 250 for "stuff"

end result

5122
250
1600
-------
6972

but could have done it w/o the $1600 Quaife, $1300 "powertrain upgrades", and $200 add'l for the STI LCAs, for a $3872 donor budget (remember I still will get $700-$1000 from extra parts on ebay and craigslist.) I may make it to $3000 donor + my "extras"!!!!)

I think that with a low mileage NA Impreza you could cut $1000 additional from your budget. In due time I'll buy 17 inch wheels and tires, the 16s will be great for autocross and track use.

[RM1SepEx]

Oops, forgot to budget $200-$300 for a new steering wheel!

[RM1SepEx]

The Eastwood caliper paint covers well! a bit messy though, I'm sure that once it is fully hardened I'll do a little touch up but the red looks great! The chassis paint covers well too...

[RM1SepEx]

Found a 27.25 long 5 rib belt, just ordered from Summit racing, cost less than $20, I hope it fits... It should be in the range of adjustment, I wrapped a rope around my harmonic balancer and alternator when it's at the bottom and got about 26.5 inches...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodyear-Belt-Gatorback-Poly-V-Serpentine-5-Rib-27-25-in-Length-Each-4050272-/370671289650?forcev4exp=true&forceRpt=true

[metalmaker12]

Thanks,looks good I just ordered one too. I am using the factory wrx wheel for now

[metalmaker12]

[QUOTE=metalmaker12;75947]Thanks,looks good I just ordered one too. Fully depowered my rack

[RM1SepEx]

[QUOTE=metalmaker12;75947]Thanks,looks good I just ordered one too. Fully depowered my rack

did you just use a brass drift vs the rack shaft from the pinion end and press out the oil seal?

[flynntuna]

What are you planning for your seats? Keeping them, swapping them out, recovering , seat warmers ?

[wallace18]

I found a pair of Kirkey Racing seats cheap from a guy who was building a roadster FFR. I am trying to sell my stock seats now.

[flynntuna]

I like the Kirkey seats, good find. I'm still not sure how I want to go. It depend largely on if their will be a targa or coupe, removable hard top ect. If head room is a problem then I'll switch or modify the seats.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm just using the stock seats for now... I'll see how I like them over time... I think that they are a bit too big/wide for my 180 lb frame

I'm going to build it basic and perhaps add/modify over time, perhaps evolve is the correct term

[wallace18]

I think that is a good idea. This is a kit that I think you can always modify down the road. It has almost endless mods available for the Subaru platform. With the various body panels other mods would be easier IMO.

[metalmaker12]

[QUOTE=metalmaker12;75953]

did you just use a brass drift vs the rack shaft from the pinion end and press out the oil seal?

I cut the oil seal off with a cutting wheel, tig welded the pinion neck for extra strength and greased it all up and put it back together. I got a pic somewhere of the weld I am talking about, will try to find it.

[metalmaker12]

I like the kirkey seat as well

[RM1SepEx]

[QUOTE=RM1SepEx;75956]

I cut the oil seal off with a cutting wheel, tig welded the pinion neck for extra strength and greased it all up and put it back together. I got a pic somewhere of the weld I am talking about, will try to find it.

The Miata racks have a clip that needs to be removed prior to pressing out the seal. I can't see one on the wrx rack... the seal is just driven out by pressing the rack from the pinion end?

I don't want to damage the rack... ;-)

[metalmaker12]

What year rack you have? my rack is an 02 It is on the away from pinion end, it is a wire type clip that you have to pull it out. it is a pain to put back in. 12489 here is a pic you can see the small clip access hole below the inner tie rod on the black rack end, you have to spin it with a screw driver or whatever works until it spins and you will see the bent end and u have to pic it out and pull it out with a plier. The inner seal seems like it had to be cut off, I have done others racks and the seal pressed out, but this style has a deep lock grove the the seal sits in, I gave it a push with the press but it seemed locked in really solid so I cut it off in all of 2 minutes. Your not going to damage it if you are careful.

[RM1SepEx]

I have an 05 rack, the end cap screws on. It appears to be the only thing holding the seal in.
checkout the photos... I show an assembled rack and the end cap that screws into the end of the steering housing on the end opposite the pinion. This plug has a bushing that is about an inch long supporting the rack.

Sorry for the poor photos... cheap camera, the wife used the good one yesterday, need I say more?

[Oppenheimer]

Rusted parts, use Por15. Eastwood also sells it. Its a 3 step process, clean, etch, paint. If the part will see sunlight, 4th step of top coating (ultraviolet light will eventually discolor Por15.)

You only have to remove loose scale. The whole idea of this product is you can paint right over heavy rust. The restoration guys have been using this stuff for decades.

[longislandwrx]

I can attest for the POR... repainted the chassis of a chevy vega and stayed shiny and durable for years after being parked outside. It did fade in a few spots where Ididnt topcoat with the uv blocker. I would def use it again. a small can goes a long way.

[longislandwrx]

I have an 05 rack, the end cap screws on. It appears to be the only thing holding the seal in.


so on the 05 rack you just unscrewed the end caps and got to all the good stuff?

[metalmaker12]

The 05 is a lot different, looks like you got it figured out, oh and my wife has all the good stuff to lol, I finally got a iPod touch to use for my build but that was like pulling teeth

[Mechie3]

I just bought a 36mm socket today to take apart my rack. The adjustable wrench wasn't doing it. I'll post up my results.

[RM1SepEx]

Meche3, your rack is an 06, so it looks like my 05 rack? It has the cast in mounts with rubber bushings vs the clamp around mounts of the earlier ones...

I won't have easy access to the press for a few days so I won't press the seal out just yet. Working on other projects for now. My calipers look nice in red ceramic paint from Eastwood. They are screwed to the side of a work table drying! Front knuckles are painted, replacement bearing for left front arrived today.

[Mechie3]

Yup. Mine is the 06 WRX rack, which is the same as the STI rack. Not sure if the 05 has the same ratio, or just the same housing.

[wallace18]

Calipers look great. Keep up the good work.

[RM1SepEx]

My original rack was destroyed in the roll over. That's how I could show both the screw in cap and the assembled rack. My replacement rack came from an 06... BUT it appears to be identical to me internally and externally, same gears/ratio I'll verify that soon.

[metalmaker12]

2002 wrx donor+Here is the list of parts that are being used on my 818
Front spindles with full brakes and front lower control arms
 -check
(New Oem wheel bearings,hubs,4pot group N calipers, Cenric Rotors,
Sti Lower control arms, Stop Tech performance pads)
• Rear spindles with brakes and e-brake handle/cables -check
(New Oem bearings, hubs, 2pot Group N calipers, Centric Rotors,
Stop Tech performance pads)
( All spindles were blasted and painted with Eastwood Products)
• Steering rack, tie rod ends, and upper steering column assembly -check

( Depowered steering rack, with Oem inner and outer tie rods, boots,
bushings)
• Pedal box and throttle -check

• Master cylinder and brake booster, and clutch master cylinder
-check
• Engine with turbo and intercooler (if WRX model) -check

(Jdm Version 8 EJ207 with Twin Scroll turbo, Intercooler, Ecu
• Exhaust manifolds, O2 sensors, and down tube
-check
• Transmission
• Rear lower control arms, toe links, and CV joints
 -check
(2002 wrx 5spd rebuilt with cusco Lsd, Act Clucth kit, Sti lower control
arms, and wrx resurfaced flywheel.
• Front seats, rear seat belts, and gauge pod
 -check
• Fuel pump

• Radiator
-check
( Koyo)
• Wheels and tires –check
( BBS STI 5x100 powder coated, Hankook Ventus R-S3 235/45/ZR17)

A few things like a fuel pump kit, and one radiator fan, but thats about it

[RM1SepEx]

metalmaker12

you are doing a SERIOUS build

I'm building my 818S as a much closer to "stock" 2005 WRX donor build

Since my donor only had 70,000 miles, I've basically reconditioned everything in "stock" configuration with new Hawk pads and drilled, slotted rotors, new clutch, lightened 12.8 lb flywheel, sti lower arms, adjustable rear lateral links, ceramic coated header & up pipe w/o cat, AC and PS delete. I've changed oil & water pumps, timing belt & tensioners, verified compression etc... I cleaned up and painted/powder coated oil pan, valve covers and all the brackets. I removed rusted areas and provide good contrast for appearance sake.

Stock brakes will be fine for 1800 lbs on a street/autocross machine. A 220 whp tune will get me 10 lbs per fully loaded HP (assuming gross weight of 2200 lbs.)

I'm sticking with stock seats and wheels.. long term that might change, I see my project as changing over time...

[metalmaker12]

metalmaker12

you are doing a SERIOUS build

I'm building my 818S as a much closer to "stock" 2005 WRX donor build

Since my donor only had 70,000 miles, I've basically reconditioned everything in "stock" configuration with new Hawk pads and drilled, slotted rotors, new clutch, lightened 12.8 lb flywheel, sti lower arms, adjustable rear lateral links, ceramic coated header & up pipe w/o cat, AC and PS delete. I've changed oil & water pumps, timing belt & tensioners, verified compression etc... I cleaned up and painted/powder coated oil pan, valve covers and all the brackets. I removed rusted areas and provide good contrast for appearance sake.

Stock brakes will be fine for 1800 lbs on a street/autocross machine. A 220 whp tune will get me 10 lbs per fully loaded HP (assuming gross weight of 2200 lbs.)

I'm sticking with stock seats and wheels.. long term that might change, I see my project as changing over time...

I would have done a donor build if my donor was a running machine, but it was in need of a motor and everything needed work. I previously got lucky to sell some toys over the last couple years, Quad LTR 450, 2006 Sti. Both were paid off and in showroom so I got a pretty penny. If this did not happen, I would have not been able to due this project. Due to the Sti sale I was able to save some of it for the real important stuff like my 2 year old and my wife. Our jobs are good, but as you know life is getting pricer every year and every dollar seems to matter.
You have done the proper maintenance and seem to have the parts ready. I admire your work ethic, I like to work the same. Yes, the stock brakes were designed to stop a car 3000lbs so they will work great. I got the group N's for 800 slightly used. They are nothing crazy, but work very well and are very reliable. My 02 wrx brakes were toasted.
What also helped me out is my friend owns a Subaru tuner shop, so I get good deals on the stuff I need, or I trade for stuff. I went over my math and my overall cost is 8-9k on donor and parts. I feel I did pretty good considering the parts I gathered.

You know it's about time FFR updated the parts needed list. I want the exact list out

[RM1SepEx]

You have just IDed the key point of the whole "build your own car" process... We all get to use whatever resources we have to build something meeting our needs and goals.

I'm 53, soon to have 2 kids in college, I'm fully invested in being an engineer, building a car, automotive projects, are what I live for since my disability with MS over 20 years ago. Starting from scratch I searched for a crunched donor, trying to get the donor with the most life in it for the least money. I used Copart and even with several surprises on the shipping end received what I think was a good deal on my donor. I'm astonished at how much I'm able to get back out of a car that had only 1 exterior body panel with no damage, the left rear door! It takes time to liquidate stuff using ebay and craigslist but you can get good $ for many of the unused parts. I think those in a big city could liquidate everything locally. I live in a state of 1.3 million people!

I plan on getting my 818S on the road within 2-3 months of getting the kit, my age, savings and lack of a job mean that I can get the job done rapidly (with the help of some damn good friends!) Many will build a kit over several years... piece by piece, with parts in storage boxes as they spend a few hours a week in the garage.

My disability precludes some of the high speed track events that I'm sure I would enjoy, but just can't physically endure. My DD2, two speed two stoke kart is a beast. I'm guessing that 818S performance with my goals will be enough to put a smaile on my face every time I drive it... I have found that on a sunny day I enjoy driving one of my 3 Miatas or my old 91 BMW E30 convertable and they all have no power!

four of us have dominated the discussion and showing of our projects in this thread. All of us have different approaches but have done a pretty thourough job of reconditioning the pieces. I've found this thread and the forum in general to be an absolutely awesome resource. I expect that we all will be happy with and proud of our projects upon completion... Can't wait to partially document the build, (no chance that I'll do as good a job as Wallace18!) I hope to be able to show it off at Carlisle next spring/summer!

[metalmaker12]

I live in R.I, so when we are done, we should meet up in Warham at the Factory, I too will have it done faster than most, but I am 30 and work 60 hours a week, so the weekends and nights will be full of 818 all nighters. My father is on board along with some others. I will have some new pics this week, I got nice parts, but not that floor or lift lol.

[longislandwrx]

I look forward to the late nights and cruising around the neighborhood in go cart form.

[RM1SepEx]

I live in R.I, so when we are done, we should meet up in Warham at the Factory, I too will have it done faster than most, but I am 30 and work 60 hours a week, so the weekends and nights will be full of 818 all nighters. My father is on board along with some others. I will have some new pics this week, I got nice parts, but not that floor or lift lol.

To be young again!
My lift has a 69 Sonett on it and my floor is disgusting! I just added blotches of red caliper paint to the odd paint and oil stains

[wallace18]

I hope that when we are all done (sort of) we could meet at a coming home event at FFR some day. One fellow in a roadster did a great video with music for this years event. I am happy we have been able to learn from each other. Hopefully to continue through our builds. I just am having a tough time waiting! But this is how we learn patience.

[longislandwrx]

I can't wait to follow other peoples individual build threads, there will be alot to be learned by those lucky enough to get a kit early.

[RM1SepEx]

Patience...

20year old son, 16 year old daughter

done

[Samiam1017]

Does Haynes or somebody offer a service manual for these cars that would help with engine assembly. Or is the Subaru factory manual the only way to go. And if so any free links these things are expensive. Thx

[RM1SepEx]

http://guibo.com/~guibo/subaru_doc/

http://www.wrxinfo.com/service_manuals/

and there are more...

Adding a transmission oil cooler to my Silverado today... I'm thinking that my enclosed trailer will be towing 1800 add'l lbs on future trips in addition to the racing karts!

[wallace18]

I bought a PDF version of the factory manual from Ebay for like $5. I print the pages out as I need them. Or I just look it up on my computer.

[metalmaker12]

http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals I used this one a couple times.

[Mechie3]

Make sure you get one specific to your model year as they did make changes along the way. Don't want the wrong torque specs!

[metalmaker12]

Anyone need new rear hubs, I got a remanufactured set for like 130 shipped

[RM1SepEx]

http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals I used this one a couple times.

I've used this one too!

[RM1SepEx]

Alternator belt update:
If you delete PS and AC here is the perfect belt at a great price, less than $20

Mine just came in today, fits perfect, in the middle of the adjustment range!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodyear-Bel...&forceRpt=true

27.25 inch goodyear, 5 rib from summitt racing

http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=5%20rib%2027.25%20belt&dds=1

[metalmaker12]

I ordered my belt from the link and got it today, it fits great and is a good belt for like 18 bucks.

[wallace18]

Wow! that is much cheaper than the belt I got from NAPA. Good score.

[RM1SepEx]

Wow! that is much cheaper than the belt I got from NAPA. Good score.

Your post got me looking for alternatives as the $ seemed damn high for such a short belt... I love searching for stuff on my netbook while watching sports!

Now I have to get ready for next weeks storm, we may get snow Tuesday!

[Mechie3]

This thread dropped off the first page. Time to bring it back:

Monday lunch time work:
Halfway:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-29_11-52-17_685.jpg

Done:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-29_12-44-50_967.jpg

Tuesday lunch time work:
Cleaned up my brakes and the aluminum lateral links today. I daily drove with Hawk DTC-30's (track pads) for over a year so I would never expect to get all of the dust off. These are cleaner than they've been in 3 years. Still debating whether or not to sandblast and paint/powedercoat them since they'll just be covered in dust again shortly after the build.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-30_12-55-57_738.jpg

Also belt sanded off the sharp edges from the weld and wire wheeled it to even up the appearance. Top is complete, bottom is stock to show the difference.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-30_11-58-14_359.jpg

[Xusia]

Nice work!

[wallace18]

Looks good! Go ahead and paint the calipers. It will keep you busy till we get the kits. LOL.

[onequickm4door]

What year/model are those brake calipers from ?

Thanks,

[onequickm4door]

Refering to the red calipers in pictures above of course

[Mechie3]

06/07 USDM WRX.

They also came on some earlier JDM models.

[Mechie3]

I previously pressed out all the studs so I could easily clean up the hubs. I'd replaced 2 or 3 of the studs over the years from multiple autocross wheel changes. ARP extended studs were $30 for 5 studs. Touge Factory had extended studs for around $28/10. hmmmm.... Stock would certainly have been fine (~$2/stud), so the slightly upgraded TF studs were an acceptable solution and 1/2 the cost of ARP studs. They didn't have the bullet nose quick start though. Put them on the lathe and took care of that. Too bad I don't yet know how to run the CNC lathe. Doing 20 studs by hand was a pain. You can see a stock stud on the far right. The TF studs are 2.5", factory was 1.8". I took .25" off to make the quick start nose, so I still have just under a 1/2 gain in total length. I'll need to coat the ends though so it's not bare steel.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20121102_212250.jpg

[Xusia]

You can see a stock stud on the far right.

Far right or far left?

[Mechie3]

Uhh....its um.....uh....derp.

Yeah, on the left. My bad.

[wallace18]

I had been trying to sell the doors from my donor for some time now. No luck even at $25 a door. Now I saw that they used stock mirrors on the S. I took off my mirrors yesterday. I noticed they cut off the front part of the mirrors on one of Davids pictures. Looks like it was a last minute deal. Cut end was left open. I'm sure that can be fixed easy. I'll most likely paint mirrors body color I chose to paint my 818.

[Mechie3]

I had a guy lined up to buy my doors and roof, he was supposed to come down one weekend, family thing came up, made plans for the next...no show.

Are you on NASIOC? Lots of people wanted the doors, but they were all on the other side of the country and I didn't feel like shipping something that heavy.

[wallace18]

No. I use Craiglist. I do not want to ship. I only accept cash. Subies are not very common in Fl. I sold rear seat, hood, trunk, turbo so far. I cut up body and sold as scrap metal. I'm not to worried I scored big time on my donor and feel lucky to do so. What will you use on your studs to protect the end?

[jlahl3160]

http://guibo.com/~guibo/subaru_doc/

http://www.wrxinfo.com/service_manuals/

and there are more...

Adding a transmission oil cooler to my Silverado today... I'm thinking that my enclosed trailer will be towing 1800 add'l lbs on future trips in addition to the racing karts!

Thanks.. I would never have found these.


John

[wallace18]

Well after all this SEMA stuff I was getting excited to work on my donor parts some. I saw a heat shield from Cobb that I liked. I had some old S/S heat shields from electrical panels laying around. After a few hours cutting, drilling and bending here is what I came up with. I know it is cool to look under a hood and see turbo sticking out, But I prefer to shield the heat form stuff instead. JMO. I hope everyone else is doing OK on their donor. My guess is we will see more action on this thread soon.

1310313104

[RM1SepEx]

I'm ready to paint the caliper brackets to match the calipers (eastman ceramic caliper paint in red)
Then the two rear knuckles, brake shields are about 1/2 sandblasted before painting.
Haven't sent the trans out for the LSD install, Quaife on order
Need to buy mirrors... roll over donors, didn't get any mirrors! haha

I NEED to go see the car at Factory ... SOON to see what I think will work for mirrors

The wife wants to go too!!!!!

[flynntuna]

Usually a good sign when the wife wants to go.lol

[RM1SepEx]

she's a keeper... married 28 years, I have 10 cars, 7 cycles, projects everywhere... :-) Loves her Caddys (we have 2 Devilles), her 99 Miata and her little Honda Rebel. Who says that you can't have fun after 50!

[flynntuna]

Cool, myself been married 30 yrs.

[Mechie3]

Married 30 years? I'm not even 30 myself. ;). Been married almost 4 years.

What's a good wah to store an engine? Mine is in a non temp controlled garage covered with a plastic bag. I turn it over by hand in frequently. Coolant is drained, oil is not. Don't want it rusting while it sits.

[wallace18]

I think what you are doing is fine. Maybe take out the sparkplugs and fog in some WD-40 and replace the plugs. I have left well oil motors for a year in plastic and everything was fine when I started them up.

[Samiam1017]

I'm not an engine guy but this is what I was told. And all the motors I've ever had built,rebuilt,raced and stored were pushrods Chevy motors (except for a turbo rotary). I have a just rebuilt 402 big block that was never started and was told it will be fine for the year that its gonna sit as long as don't start it. There's oil in it. The motors that were run but not gonna be used in a while we turned over every few weeks to move the rings and move the load on valve springs. I don't think I really helped ya, but maybe I did.

[RM1SepEx]

Today is Christmas!!!! My last build part arrived by UPS, my Quaife LSD

Next to run it over to my local Subaru dealer with a friend who rallycrosses to install that little gem!

I'll have an open front diff and a center diff to sell off soon!

Looking forward to my Factory 5 visit Thursday AM...

[metalmaker12]

RM1SepEx, You will see the 818s if it is back from pics's, I just missed it on monday cause they just put it up in the truck. Nice LSD, soon you will be tripping lol j/k

[RM1SepEx]

I couldn't drive down Monday to see it in case they were not open... 6 hrs is too much driving if they are closed! It would be nice to talk face to face after all the back and forth on the forum!

Just powder coated the rack clamps yesterday... I need to find the baggie that I put the big circlip in for the front knuckle that I replaced the bearings... one out of 4 needing bearings isn't too bad.

I'm going to make .050 thick aluminum covers for the ABS sensor holes. The front knuckles are all refinished with eastwood chassis paint over their rust converter. The rears need another couple hrs of refinishing to be done.

The caliper brakets I decided to do in black ceramic heat paint over the rust converter. So the brackets are black and the calipers are that nice red Eastwood caliper ceramic paint. Should look great with my plated slotted cross drilled rotors

I'm going to leatherseats.com for leather covers on my original seats but I need to wait until exterior and interior colors are determined. I should be able to buy additional matching leather and vinyl to spruce up the stock Factory 5 offerings.

You were going to visit again... when? I'll be there in the morning on Thursday. Leaving Freeport 7:30 AM or so, 3 hrs travel time... I've visited twice before.

[bromikl]

Congrats, RM1SepEx. If I remember correctly, the Quaife LSD is considered one of the best you can buy. If I don't have $1,000 to spend, what are my other options?

[RM1SepEx]

OBX is Quaife clone... HOWEVER it is a cheap Chinese clone, research it on the Subaru forums, there are very specific items that need to be replaced etc for reliable operation. bellville spring/washers and bolts. Yheir machining isn't as accurate as we would like, to the point some are visably incorrect... Basically you rebuild it before using it. I evaluated all of those requirements and decided to go with the Quaife since it is a known, top notch solution. My autocross community has the most experience with the Quaife and I feel that it's configuration fits my needs best.

I have a Torsen in two of my Miatas and I'm happy with their operation. I have viscous units in my BMW325 and my final Miata and those are OK as well. I use a richmond gear powertrax in my truck and although crude in operation it fills the needs in a truck used for hualing and towing. (Makes squeeking/chirps tires on tight slow corners, drives the wife absolutely bonkers...) It is purely mechanical...

Depends on what you are looking for, I think for all out track racing the clutch types are felt to be best, though they have discs that wear. Helicals are a good, two wheels can drive alternative with no maintenance req. a compromise soln. Viscous types are low maint but the least effective, the mechanicals like the powertrax are actually very good at ultimate drive traction but not a "performance" solution for racing, they are better for utility, ultimate slippery traction situations like snow or mud

[mrmustang]

I'm hungry, and can't eat a whole car at once. :D

A local builder of Locost7's uses S2000's as donors and said you can title the 818 in Indiana as a WRX, albeit heavily modified. To do this, you need the original VIN stamps on the car, and the original chassis must be cut up. You need to get the car appraised though for insurance purposes. Haven't looked into all the details myself though.

Just as an FYI as someone who has been around the kit car business for years, you are best not to listen to your "local builder" as what he is doing is called VIN tampering and is a FEDERAL OFFENSE. You run the risk of losing the finished car, as well as your license, and even potential for a little jail time (regardless of whether you are a hobbyist or not) not to mention your new criminal record. Again, I've been around these cars a long, long time and offer this sound advice from the past experience of others who have attempted to do the same thing only to get bitten in the behind and have to start from scratch down the road (paperwork and title process wise)........


Bill S.

[metalmaker12]

I just finished up tearing my 4pots/2pots down and I am going to blast them tomorrow. Next week they will get a copper orange powdercoat and fully rebuilt parts. I also got a set of brembos that I will be tearing down the same way soon.

I figure my body color will be bright white pearl, with some body graphics, FFR carbon spiltter, diffuser, side skirts, gunmetal bbs wheels and the copper orange brakes. This should look pretty nice when all matched up

[wallace18]

Sounds like a great scheme for the car.

[Leturnracing]

A video of the rebuild of your caliper would be great?

[Mechie3]

What media are you blasting them with?

[jlahl3160]

If you could put a low wattage light bulb (~15 Watts) near the engine, where it will not catch anything on fire, it would keep the local relative humidity at a point where you will have no condensation.

John


Married 30 years? I'm not even 30 myself. ;). Been married almost 4 years.

What's a good wah to store an engine? Mine is in a non temp controlled garage covered with a plastic bag. I turn it over by hand in frequently. Coolant is drained, oil is not. Don't want it rusting while it sits.

[metalmaker12]

Heres some pics
13611136121361313614136081360913610A video would be nice lol i will try, I might be able to video the rest of the rebuild. There torn down already so it will be maybe the blasting part. I use my time very wisely and fit my car work in .vs. my family time. I can take some pics too if I get the time. Leturnracing if you have any questions I am hear to help

Mechie3 I am using aluminum oxide/sand 75/25, it cuts fast, but does not pit as long as you move around. My set up is my father in laws,(He blasted head stones, monuments car parts etc for 25 years) It is an old Lindsay compressor that pumps out a lot of continuous psi's with a industrial blast tank. It works great, I blasted my wheels with it and they came out perfect. I got my wheels powder coated gun metal and they look awesome.

[Leturnracing]

Thanks Metalmaker12, i know its hard to keep the family happy and still working on a project. :) i m still looking for a good donor and i try to found as many info as i can . Thanks for your time .

[AJW Performance]

Metalmaker I like the wheel choice. One of my personal favorites, and not that easy to come by these (in 5x100) days vs a few years ago.

[metalmaker12]

Yea and I almost sold them lol, but at the last second I said " Hell I can blast them and get them powder coated, why not" They are a personal favorite of mine too.

[wallace18]

Well after finding out I have to wait till June at least, I thought I would do a little work on the donor parts. I installed my Sparco steering wheel today. I got it and the adapter from NOPI. It looks great and feels great. I had to modify the column housing some so it would not rub. I will have to relocate the horn to the washer switch. I may not be able to cancel turn signals anymore either. I can put up with that for the loss of the airbag and the better IMO steering wheel.

1375213753

[Xusia]

I like the look of it!

[RM1SepEx]

Steering wheel is one of those "not sure what I'm going to do" areas
looks like a very nice wheel, info please, leather?

[Xusia]

Same here. I know I don't want the stock steering wheel, and I like the look of that one, but I'd prefer it be less adorned with advertising and mate up a bit more easily, perhaps even made specifically for an Impreza.

[wallace18]

Steering wheel is one of those "not sure what I'm going to do" areas
looks like a very nice wheel, info please, leather? The wheel is 330MM leather. NOPI part # 005+1158 look on their site for more info. lots of other choices as well.

[Triathletedave]

I was wondering what a pearl white would look like on this car. Even better with copper orange accents. I was also thinking of copper orange as the primary color (with pearl), and having white pearl stripes. So many options, but we do have a lot of time to get our color schemes sorted out.

[Mechie3]

I've been slowly yet surely working on cleaning up parts. Since I have until June, I'm taking my time and doing some things I might not have done otherwise.

Wire wheeled then sand blasted and painted the hubs. Sprayed a cold galvanizing product on the non coated tips of the studs (I machined bullet noses on them) and pressed in the studs today.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-12-04_13-10-02_528.jpg

Since I'm powdercoating the brakes, I've been cleaning up the castings. Some of the parting lines weren't flush, other areas looked like they band sawed off excess casting material. The entire casting itself also had a rougher mottled texture to it. These tended to trap dirt and make them impossible to ever get fully clean.

Handful of before and after pics. I still need to fully blast these and finish cleaning them up.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-30_11-57-23_38.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-30_11-57-13_753.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-30_11-58-10_351.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-30_11-58-03_628.jpg

[jlahl3160]

I am just looking at the present time... If you want to let me know what you are looking for, I don;t mind sharing what I see.

John


Thanks Metalmaker12, i know its hard to keep the family happy and still working on a project. :) i m still looking for a good donor and i try to found as many info as i can . Thanks for your time .

[Leturnracing]

Thanks jlahl3160 but i m a little bit far from your area. i like this tread ,we learned tips from people who already worked on there donors. It could be great if people could share the parts numbers they use (bearing kit, bushing kit) like that we are gonna be well prepare. Thanks everyone

[metalmaker12]

13909[/ATTACH]13910Here is an update on my 4 pot/2pots after I blasted them, and some rebuild kit pics to. They are going to powder coat this friday
139061390713908

[jlahl3160]

Thanks jlahl3160 but i m a little bit far from your area.

I don't just look in my local area... I look on Copart and IAA for salvage auctions accross the US... Shipping from the East coast per the link below, when I put in your info is about $400 - $500 US.... not unlike what I would pay from the east coast (even from Columbus, Ohio .. the state I live in is $400 shipping). Now the West Coast is a different story if you were to look at cars shipped from there they would add $1,400 .. Alaska $2,200..

Take a look... there might be something you like. I think it is the way to go rather than a used car from a car lot.

John

http://www.autobidmaster.com/carfinder-online-auto-auctions/result/?eventId=detailSearch&vehicleType=V&make=SUBA&model=IMPREZA&fromYear=2002&toYear=2007&saleDate=&titleType=*&location=facility&facility=*&state=*&zipPostalCode=&mileageRange=99999&salesType=*

[bromikl]

jlahl3160, I'm sure some people appreciate the links. But would you please keep all your great finds on one thread?

On that note, anyone can search Copart or any of the others when they are ready to buy their donor. Auto salvage companies sell damaged vehicles every day - they are in business to make money. As such, they aren't going to under-price any vehicle and lose money.

I suspect most guys will buy locally, making your posts irrelevant to 95% of us - even when we are ready to buy. Really, the only deals that make sense to post are from a private seller with a really fantastic price. To top it off, you're spoiling the fun of buying a donor - the thrill of the hunt.

[jlahl3160]

jlahl3160, I'm sure some people appreciate the links. But would you please keep all your great finds on one thread?

bromild,
I appologize to you and all who find my posts objectionable. My intent was to be helpful. I will stop.

John

[Silvertop]

bromild,
I appologize to you and all who find my posts objectionable. My intent was to be helpful. I will stop.

John

No need to stop. Your posts are not objectionable, and could in fact be helpful to folks actively seeking donor cars. Just use a more appropriate thread. Or start your own "Donor Search" thread. People will come.

[Mechie3]

^^ That. I think what you're doing is a good thing. This thread is dedicated to working on the donor though, not finding a donor.

[metalmaker12]

1404014041,,, Back from powdercoating, they look great

[rjh2pd]

interesting color, what color are you doing your car?

[metalmaker12]

interesting color, what color are you doing your car?

Yea, I like wild colors for brakes, the green is different and not common, but I really like it. The car will either be a superwhite pearl, gunmetal gray, or wrc blue at this point

[Mechie3]

My dd 02 wrx came with green painted horns and green wheels. It was a bit to much for me. I do like fun colored brakes though. I'm debating red or orange with a wrb 818.

[Nuul]

I'm thinking yellow brakes and tardis blue.
14043

[rjh2pd]

I was dead set on either WRB or black, but now that ive looked into gunmetal its going to be tough. still leaning towards WRB to stick with the subie tradition. The wheels will probably be gold with red brakes :)

[MiniVanMan]

Yea, I like wild colors for brakes, the green is different and not common, but I really like it. The car will either be a superwhite pearl, gunmetal gray, or wrc blue at this point

I can see that color with the white pearl. In fact, I think it would look pretty damn awesome.

[metalmaker12]

I am pretty set on the white pearl, but let's see what they offer, it could be interesting

[Mechie3]

I took my steering rack partially apart again. After reading this:

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/1709/pageid/2463/project-miatabusa-part-5--de-powering-the-steering-rack.aspx

I decided I wanted to try welding my pinion as well. However, I can't press the bearing off. I didn't put too much pressure on it as all I can do is grab the outer race. The number on the bearing is NSK 6905 which has dimensions of 25 x 42 x 9. When I measure the parts in my hand, I got 22 x 42 x 9. I'm hesitant to just cut the bearing off since it seems finding a replacement will be rather difficult.

Has anyone attempted this?

[wallace18]

Well I am replacing my stock control arm bushings with poly ones from Energy Suspension. Getting out the stock units is the hardest part. Also I am watching videos of some FFR builds. ( Two Guys Garage) Lots of interesting ideas and tips that will help me in my build. This will be my first Kit car and I like to learn from others so I don't make as many mistakes. I highly suggest this while waiting for your kit.

[metalmaker12]

I cut it off, you don't need or want it. It is the definition of a depowered rack.
The hardest part of this build will be the rerouting and cutting of the harness unless they are giving us one. The mechanics of this kit will be a snap, the other hurdle for some may be the prep and paint if they go glass. I have begun to look over the harnesses and started to tape off what i will and will not be using to try to get a jump on it. The only other thing I need is my brake rebuild kits and a fuel pump set up.

[Mechie3]

I cut it off, you don't need or want it. It is the definition of a depowered rack.
.

I cut the piston off quite some time ago. I'm referring to the ball bearing that supports the pinion and is located above the spool valve and is just below the spline for the u joint. I want to weld the spool valve to eliminate the torsion bar slop.

[Racebrewer]

Hi Mechie,

I'm really surprised that a bearing marked 6905 has a 22 mm ID instead of a 25 mm ID.

By any chance did you use a digital caliper? I've had them re-set the zero function on me and come up with incorrect measurements. I prefer my dial calipers for that reason.

FWIW, as a quick check using a wrench. 22 mm is extremely close to 7/8ths inch while 25 mm is just under an inch.

John

[metalmaker12]

Sorry for the miscue. What year is your donor, on my 02 I have left my pinion gear as is, but plan on doing the same. I have welded them up on miatas, and 240's and I will on my 818. I will have to look at it over the next week and than power up my tig machine and put a bead around the spool value. I am a certified welder in almost every type so this is fun compared to my day job. And yes the digital calipers tend to be off slightly, I only use starrett measuring tools in my measuring. When it comes to racks I have been thinking of using a Honda fit electric powered rack, it has a close ratio and is close to the same size. This would give the 818 power assist with no lines and fluid. But to start I will use the oem de-powered rack.

[Mechie3]

I used digital and manual and double checked the zeros. Had our machinist check it too to make sure I wasn't seeing things. Only thing I can think of is that a sleeve of some sort is pressed onto the shaft masking the true id. Donor is an 06 wrx.

[Mechie3]

Quietly making progress.

Right side is wire wheeled and coated with Eastwoods version of POR15. Left side is the same plus a gloss black paint sprayed on it.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-01-03_12-08-12_929.jpg

[wallace18]

Looks Good! I used a wire wheel also, then Eastwood paint. Black is the way to go IMO.

[RM1SepEx]

I just got an update on my Quaife install, both carrier bearings didn't feel quite right, over $100 each from Subaru to replace them, it will be right when it gets finished! The gears look great! I told them not to rush since it won't get installed until summer...

I sand blasted my carriers and used the anti rust coating then the Eastwood black chassis paint too

[wallace18]

Well it has been awhile since I posted to this thread. I installed my Energy Suspension front control arm bushings today after a hard fought battle. First it is not easy removing the stock ones. After that I ordered kit 19.3101G for a 2002 WRX that was my donor. The front bushing fit fine. The rear steel sleeve was way too big. After calling Energy Suspension they sent a steel sleeve that was close but no cigar. I had to buy a 25/32" drill and drill out the center then use a step drill to bell the end. It finally worked out after a lot of work. I wanted to post this in case someone else goes this route. Here are some photos. Good luck to all. I am back to my 33 donor parts to work on. :cool:

144691447014471

[AJW Performance]

as I always say Tom; "looking good!"