Needing a brake duct setup

[dwheeler]

I've warped my rotors for a second time. I think it may be telling me it needs some cooling. I could use some ideas on the materials to make a set of ducts.

[Dan Babb]

Cobra Earl sells the ducts you can mount to the brake vent on the front of the car.

http://www.cobraearl.com/products/

Are you doing a lot of track events. Warming rotors doesnt seem to be a common occurence for street cars.

[Bob Cowan]

Are you sure they're warped? Did they turn blue? Did you put a dial indicator on them? The reason I ask is that you really have to beat on a set of rotors to warp them. I'v done it, so I know it can be done.

I have simple brake cooling ducts, and it didn't cost a lot. I started with the duct covers from Cobra Earls. I bought the flex tubing from Pegasus Auto Racing. And the tubing is simply hose-clamped to the tie rod. Not fancy, but it works.

Also, if you're burning up rotors, you're also burning up pads, overheating calipers, and probably boiling brake fluid. You should seriously consider upgrading to Wilwoods. It will be cheaper in the long run, and you'll probably shave 2-3 seconds off your lap times.

[dwheeler]

Cobra Earls! I totally forgot. Thanks.

I'm sure they're warped. high speed braking was doing the jitters. I've never put it on the track but there are some nice curvy roads nearby that get a lot of use. I think it is the syndrom where you end up stopped with the rotors being really hot. The pads being in one spot makes the unevenly hot and cause a slight warpage. It's not really noticable until you put the brakes on a little hard at highway speeds.

After they're turned, it seems like a new car again!

I'm using the 13" ford racing brakes on the front. The pads are only 1/2 worn with 84K miles on them. I don't really use the brakes much. Downshifting works well and sounds so good.

I'm also on the original clutch after 84K miles. Anyone have a clue when they go out?

[Bob Cowan]

Cobra Earls! I totally forgot. Thanks.

I'm sure they're warped. high speed braking was doing the jitters. I've never put it on the track but there are some nice curvy roads nearby that get a lot of use. I think it is the syndrom where you end up stopped with the rotors being really hot. The pads being in one spot makes the unevenly hot and cause a slight warpage. It's not really noticable until you put the brakes on a little hard at highway speeds.

After they're turned, it seems like a new car again!

I'm using the 13" ford racing brakes on the front. The pads are only 1/2 worn with 84K miles on them. I don't really use the brakes much. Downshifting works well and sounds so good.

I'm also on the original clutch after 84K miles. Anyone have a clue when they go out?

Ahh, now I get it. I'd be willing to bet your rotors are not really warped. I'd bet you have uneven pad deposit causing the pads to grab and release. Overheating a rotor enough to warp it is really tough to do in a light weight car on the street. I suppose it can be done, but you really have to work at it. I'v done it on the track - where you're hammering the brakes over and over for 20 minutes.

The only way to know for sure is to put a dial indicator on the disc while it's still on the car. Of course, the only way to fix a problem is to properly diagnose it in the first place. Otherwise, you're just guessing and throwing parts at it.

Here's an interesting article on that:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

As for the clutch, it will last until you wear it out. And if you use the clutch as a brake, it won't last long.

[emac]

I would try getting new pads and rotors that may be better suited to your driving style. I would start clean and not put new pads on old rotors unless they are turned perfect. Cooling will help fading. As another post said, it sounds like you are getting deposits, not warping. Properly bedding in new pads and avoiding holding hot pads on the rotors may be all you need. If your pads are hot and you have to come to a stop, try using the e-brake. The rear will not be as hot and some deposits on the rear will not make the steeering shake.

When I used to play with BMW's I kept a set of abrasive metalic pads to clean my rotors when they got deposits, Multiple hard slowdowns (not stopping) to clean the rotors. Worked pretty well and was cheaper than new rotors. We just dont have any good machinists around here anymore.