Mk4 aluminum panels

[Nelson jr]

Hi everyone my name is Nelson I have a complete mk4 about three weeks away. One of the concerns I have is how to keep the aluminum panels looking new. I was at FFR and saw somheld the cars and the aluminum looks spotted and dirty. I was thinking of having all the panels anodized. Any suggestions?

[Olli]

You are correct, in that if left raw, the aluminum panels really don't look that nice with just a little bit of age so a lot of folks will coat them.

You have many options, one of which you have mentioned.

Options; anodize, powder coat, polish and then clear with a product such as SharkHide, full on base/clear paint. Some will tell you to use some WD40 and a Scotch Brite pad. I see that method as a dirt magnet.

My prefered coating is, base/clear paint. I paint my own, so for me it's easy. If I didn't paint, my choice would be to powder coat the panels. In my opinion, the smoother and glossier the surface, the easier it is to keep clean.


Olli

[Nelson jr]

Hi thanks for the information I am the marine industry we use a lot of clear awl grip and imron products would you recommend any of those products. We also anodize most of the exterior aluminum parts on boats not sure if the heat will cause an issue.

[edwardb]

I'm a huge fan of powder coating for these builds. Hard to beat the durability and resistance to most solvents, and stays looking nice indefinitely. It's also very cost effective, especially if you are considering automotive base coat/clear coat.

[riptide motorsport]

If your in the marine bus. then use woody wax.

[Nelson jr]

Is there such a thing as clear powder coating ? Wha have you done to our panels ?

[edwardb]

Is there such a thing as clear powder coating ? Wha have you done to our panels ?

Yes, there is clear powder coating. Actually multiple varieties of clear, e.g. full gloss, semi-gloss, satin, metallic, etc.

I used mainly high-gloss silver metallic on my build, including the frame, all the panels, etc. In this picture, right before the body was installed, you can see the foot boxes, firewall, frame tubes, etc.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Finished/IMG_1377.jpg

[Nelson jr]

That looks awesome I really like what u did. I will be calling my local powder coater in the am. Great looking engine compartment

[Dave O]

I went with the same thing as Edwardb and am pleased with the results. I have been using the blue painters tape to cover the surfaces that will be exposed to dropped wrenches,etc during the build.

[Blate]

Is there a need to predrill the holes for rivets when powdercoating the panels?

[edwardb]

Generally, you're going to want to pre-fit the panels before any type of coating or finishing. In some cases, they do take some trimming and persuading. This is the also time you would do any mods. I also had several pieces I was just never happy with and made new ones. The point is you typically do not just take all the bare parts, have them finished, and start assembly for the first time with the finished parts. So while doing the initial assembly, you will need to drill the holes for the rivets, and most use Cleco fasteners to temporarily hold in place. Then send off for finish. When reassembling, often you need to run a drill into the pre-drilled holes to remove excess coating.

So the short answer to your question is yes.

[Nelson jr]

edward thanks for all the information, do those cleco fastners come with the kit ? or where do I purchase also, did you fit the panels before you removed the body after delivery, or did you remove the body all the panels fit the panels and remount the body to make sure all fits ? let me know your thoughts

[edwardb]

edward thanks for all the information, do those cleco fastners come with the kit ? or where do I purchase also, did you fit the panels before you removed the body after delivery, or did you remove the body all the panels fit the panels and remount the body to make sure all fits ? let me know your thoughts

No, there aren't any Cleco fasteners with the kit. They're basically a tool or assembly aid to temporarily do what a rivet does. Available nearly everywhere. This link from Jegs gives you an idea. Most guys have 25-50 (at least) 1/8 inch size, and a lesser quantity of 3/16 inch. They're used over and over.

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Cleco-Fasteners/762650/10002/-1

Regarding the order of assembly, the body needs to come off after delivery. It's only there for transportation. You will do all the suspension work, panels, wiring, fuel lines, brake lines, panel fitting, engine and driveline assembly, etc. with the body off. The body is re-installed and fitted after. I had the body on/off multiple times during my build, the final time after paint and everything on the chassis completed. The FFR instructions are pretty clear (I think) about the recommended order of assembly.

[Nelson jr]

I guess what I was asking in ref to the panels would you refinish them ( paint or powder coating ) prior to fitting ? I would assume first you fit the panels, then remove them send them out to refinsih and then reinstall. in what sequence would you do that, thanks for the input Nelson

[E-Ticket Ride]

I am going to send mine out to PC once I stop doing mods to the sheet metal. Next up, heater install, dead pedal kick-out, and lock box behind the seat.
I have been advised by several very experienced builders to hold off mounting just about all of your panels until everything else is installed, or just about installed.
This includes have cleckos holding things together as you go-cart.
I have been tweaking and adjusting my IRS the last few weekends, and I couldn't imagine doing it with the panels in place.
Cleckos are a godsend, and I have about 150. Some would claim that is over kill, and for them it might be.
This just allows me plenty of freedom to R/R panels at will.

Drill and test fit/mod first, PC (or paint) second, install third.
CL

[David]

I'm a huge fan of powder coating for these builds. Hard to beat the durability and resistance to most solvents, and stays looking nice indefinitely. It's also very cost effective, especially if you are considering automotive base coat/clear coat.

Agreed... Anodizing looks great, but it stains. Powder is best IMHO.

David

[Jeff Kleiner]

I am going to send mine out to PC once I stop doing mods to the sheet metal. Next up, heater install, dead pedal kick-out...

Just trying to save you some trouble---FFR already pushed the LH wall of the driver's footbox out as far as possible on the Mk4 so there is no room for a kickout.

Cheers,
Jeff

[LuisL]

I did mine in black powder

http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy357/LuisLopezRiley/29609fc5.jpg


http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy357/LuisLopezRiley/da107c71.jpg

[LuckyWinner]

if you put them in bare and want to coat them. What is the best thing to do?

[Mikey_P]

Probably sharkhide or something else you can brush on.

[JL1744]

Nice job with this engine compartment, I'm going to step up my game.

[Avalanche325]

I polished my engine bay panels and used Sharkhide. It looks nice, but it was an enormous amount of labor. The polishing part, that is. You hardly see the panels once everything is assembled. If I were building again, I would powder coat.

[David Hodgkins]

I polished my engine bay panels and used Sharkhide. It looks nice, but it was an enormous amount of labor. The polishing part, that is. You hardly see the panels once everything is assembled. If I were building again, I would powder coat.

Do BOTH! Polish the inside, and powder the outside. And if you REALLY want buff arms, polish them yourself!! Hey and just for the OCD in you, engine turn the panels too...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34845&d=1413771596

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49174&d=1451252627

Oh, and before you ask: Yes. I AM a glutton for punishment!!

:)

[Fixit]

Another source for Cleco's (Got my kit from these guys - Trick Tools (https://www.trick-tools.com/1_8_inch_Cleco_Kit_100_Piece_Cleco_1_8_100_SP_1370 ))

I'm painting my panels in the home shop - a combination of rattle-can & truck bed liner. 90% of the panels are not visible, covered with carpeting, or covered with a "Dynamat" type product. I couldn't justify the cost of powdercoat - when they're hidden from view, covered, or coated with heat/sound/impact stuff or goo.

I have basically assembled all of the panels, marked/drilled/Cleco'd them to the frame.
During this process you'll discover edges and corners that'll need a little trimming to get them to sit flat on the frame members (usually due to a welding bead).
Once the primary fitting is done, then during the build you'll run into the "interference phase". You'll need your panels in place to plan for fluid(s) piping, and electrical harness routing - then remove them to drill necessary holes.
Once you're satisfied that a given panel will not need any more tweaks, set it aside for the coating method of choice.

I've probably had the panels on & off of my car 6+ times already - in the raw stage. Page ahead in the assembly manual... anywhere it states "drill a hole for...." is a red-flag. You really should prep for this on the panels before committing to coating.

Also give consideration to any FFR options, Aftermarket/Cottage options, or your own additions, and how they'll impact the panels.
Two popular ones that come to mind are:
Russ Thompson's dropped trunk floor kit
Breeze's "Cubby/Divider" kit.

[Straversi]

I've seen aluminum with and without sharkhide, raw, brushed, polished and machine turned. Powder coated satin and gloss black, white, red, silver, gray. Smooth and hammer coat. Carbon fiber wrap. Painted to match the body color. Painted to match the stripes. Painted to match the interior. Painted with color matched rivets. Painted with contrasting painted rivets. BBQ paint, undercoat and some covered in heat shield material. Am I missing any?

Oh, and unknown, due to track grime and oil stains....

Somehow, they all manage to look pretty cool.

-Steve

[rich grsc]

6 year old thread

[BULLITT428]

I used Sharkhide on mine. I phoned them and talk to them about there product. After the conversation I used Sharkhide. I liked the look of the bare aluminum. Cleaned them all and just applied the Sharkhide. I was told when I talked with them that it should last and not turn yellow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhW1O-SOL28

Thanks Ed