GTM roll cage modifications and race car build log [Archive] - Page 4

tachman

05-06-2015, 02:36 PM

John,

At one time I devised a method of confirming the fork engagement vs drum rotation using the sender for the gear indicator output as a degree wheel for the drum. With the motor stopped I logged the voltages while centered in each gear, then the voltages of the engagement points for each gear on up and down shifts. The engagement point was found by moving the axle to a position where the dogs were misaligned and would NOT engage while applying light pressure to the flag. I found the readings were very consistent for each gear on a fresh box. I never got a chance to test a well used box to see if the positions changed. The theory is if a fork was damaged it would engage at a different rotation on the drum.

Some experience with PDG shifters as I recall:

When we first ran the Mendeola we adapted the linkage from the G50 which was mostly derived from kit components. It used the kit shifter and needle bearing ujoint (modified for straight line motion only) which adapted to a 3/4 .062 wall 4130 tube with a few bends, went to an a-frame linkage (near the oem starter location) secured with 2 ea 1/4" rods with female 1/4 heims. A surplus pin and block 3/4 ujoint connected the back section (3/4" straight .062 wall mild steel) which then used a kit 1/2" pin and block ujoint fixed to a bracket on the flag. Stops were made using a 1/4" threaded rod and heim also connected to the flag.

The result was our first race (a 6 hour) went ok but at the second one (a 3 hr) the 1/2" kit p&b ujoint failed. I then concluded that the mass of the whole shifter system put a lot of stress on the stops and rearward joints and decided to move the stops up front to the shifter.

The current setup still uses the kit shifter and needle ujoint (with the cross modified to allow only straight line travel), somewhat bent 4130 tube past the engine to a pivot attached to the oem starter bosses) then a 3/4" solid 6061 rod with 5/16" heims at both ends. The flag is filled an drilled for a 5/16" bolt. The stops are at the front and are a long 1/4" rod passing through a drilled stop with washers and rubber washers to add some cushion.

This setup has lasted for many seasons and only required stop adjustment when the gearbox was changed and used different internal ratchets. Bends in the 4130 tube don't cause any issue as the path overall is fairly straight. It passes under the aluminum motor mount to avoid the oil pump. In your case to adapt to LH driver position perhaps a cross shaft at the firewall could transfer the motion to the outside of the motor.

Mike prefers and did install a system with stops connected to the flag, but my concern was that the relatively heavy mass of the linkage transmitted thru the flag impacting the stops could cause the flag attachment setscrew to loosen or wear the shaft bushing. Perhaps some cushioning on the stops as I have done with the front mounted stops would temper this impact.

If the cable is retained, stops at the rear would work fine, perhaps a cable upgrade might help. I know team QRP found some much higher quality shift cables that improved their shifter.

Keep up the great descriptions, they're very informative.

Jim H
Team PDG

kabacj

05-07-2015, 04:55 AM

Thanks for the info Jim H and Mike P

It sounds like I'll eventually build in rod actuated shifting. Your experience is very helpful.

I hope that if I can manuver the scope into the right position I will be able to see the drum, forks and dogs work.. Or not work.

With that information setup and adjustment will be much easier.

Shipping the trans back to California is a three week turn around. That's too long mid season. Ian at Mendiola has always been super helpful. Maybe I can fix it myself if it comes to that.

kabacj

05-07-2015, 01:09 PM

As a result of the handling improvement I saw over the weekend i was able to break the 160 mph barrier on the back strait at VIR.

I formerly was running ½ inch of total toe in. That most likely masked the fact that the rear bump steer was not set properly. Prior to my last track visit I did not realize how important bump steer was to set. When the bump steer is properly set I got better traction off the corner and better high speed stability.

Below is a screen shot of my telemetry. I am sure there is another 5-10 mph in the car, as soon as I get the transaxle sorted and I can really charge into the turn and carry more corner speed. Every MPH I carry through the coner is less I need to build down the strait.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/62FA9B8F-6AE6-463B-8C0C-20C78AD382EE_zpsvqegx65k.png (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/62FA9B8F-6AE6-463B-8C0C-20C78AD382EE_zpsvqegx65k.png.html)

johngeorge

05-07-2015, 01:15 PM

wow, 20mph faster then challenge cars.. damn thats moving.

fastthings

05-07-2015, 01:47 PM

Awesome, I just heard that gps is going to be improving, we will get accuracy down to the centimeter.

Fraser D

05-07-2015, 08:04 PM

Great to see John.
Measurable improvement feeds the soul!
Its amazing how quickly this car can build speed :-)

kabacj

05-08-2015, 05:40 AM

Great to see John.
Measurable improvement feeds the soul!
Its amazing how quickly this car can build speed :-)

Thanks Dave.

Exactly right. As long as I am faster at the end of every track day I am happy.

This past weekend was a big improvement.

John

longislandwrx

05-13-2015, 03:18 PM

awesome progress, when's the next track day?

kabacj

05-13-2015, 04:47 PM

awesome progress, when's the next track day?

That all depends on how quickly I can get the transaxle back into adjustment

Maybe as soon as June 5, but since I was unable to get the endoscope into a position where I could see anything wrong. A tear down is planned for this weekend. Lots of family stuff planned too so it's going to be a difficult task to fit in.

Maybe I'll just forfeit sleep to get it done.

kabacj

05-22-2015, 04:45 AM

I got a several pictures back from my weekend at VIR.

This is one of the shots I like.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/12D57B70-1DC4-4DA7-B023-12A5E3CB0E14_zpsgykqsjc4.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/12D57B70-1DC4-4DA7-B023-12A5E3CB0E14_zpsgykqsjc4.jpg.html)

The thing I like most is the amount of daylight under the inside tires.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/8D3671C4-1058-4A5E-9FDA-0E1612F43FA6_zpstm8lcgtg.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/8D3671C4-1058-4A5E-9FDA-0E1612F43FA6_zpstm8lcgtg.jpg.html)

I still have adjustments to make, but the handling is neutral now and keeps getting better as I tune it.

kabacj

05-26-2015, 07:28 AM

A few more pictures from my last weekend.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/upload3_zpsduyj2nde.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/upload3_zpsduyj2nde.jpg.html)

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/upload%201_zpsdywxyqvx.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/upload%201_zpsdywxyqvx.jpg.html)

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/upload2_zpsuzrcu9np.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/upload2_zpsuzrcu9np.jpg.html)

kabacj

06-25-2015, 05:07 AM

After getting through a long list of non GTM home improvement projects it's time to get back to the GTM and see what's going on in the transaxle.

As usual I'm under the gun from a time perspective. One day on the weekend to work on the car and one day to pack up for Limerock. I'll leave Friday at 4am to get to the track.

No racing on Sunday's at limerock so we race Friday the 3rd and Sat the 4th. On the good side the event is un muffled so no sound restrictions. We only have a few unmuffled days a year.
The GTM is not as loud as other race cars, but I doubt the Kooks exhaust would pass sound tech without cats.

The Stig

06-25-2015, 06:53 AM

One day on the weekend to work on the car and one day to pack up for Limerock. I'll leave Friday at 4am to get to the track.

No racing on Sunday's at limerock so we race Friday the 3rd and Sat the 4th.

I'm glad you're here... I get to live my racing needs vicariously through you and your posts. :cool: I look forward to reading how things work out at the track.

Be safe, and have fun!

Mike

kabacj

06-25-2015, 05:21 PM

Hey Mike

Thanks for the support. Some times burning the candle at both ends I just want to take a break and relax but knowing that you guys are watching gives me the extra drive I need to get the job done and make it to the track.

Speaking of jobs that need doing.

I found my shifting problem.

It all started over the winter when I redesigned and relocated my shifter.

The mods worked really well till this little stop loosened up. (Mostly because I never tightened the lock nut)

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/AA9DA30C-626A-4B59-81BE-1211008044C9_zpsov44kdmi.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/AA9DA30C-626A-4B59-81BE-1211008044C9_zpsov44kdmi.jpg.html)

You can see on the witness mark how it stops the shifter from moving. Well eventually The Allen head bolt backed out enough to just barely get the shift done and that's when the shift dogs start crashing together point to point and things get damaged.

Well on the good side the transaxle is a dream to work on. I have not experienced something like this since my 125 GP bike racing days. Every part of the Mendiola transaxle was made to be worked on. Every part has an obvious place to fit and no special tools or painful contortions necessary to rebuild.

In 20 min I had all the gears and forks out for inspection with the transaxle still in the car.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/94505092-552F-4917-8952-331B099D6535_zpsyurkuat5.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/94505092-552F-4917-8952-331B099D6535_zpsyurkuat5.jpg.html)

Ian at Mendiola who is awesome to work with sent me the one part I destroyed FEDEX and I'll have it together and working again 20 min after the part arrives.

It's really nice to work on a mechanism that was designed to be worked on. It sure is pretty in there too.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/FB4E919F-23CA-4056-89CB-D224312E1F64_zpsbzbmdm0j.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/FB4E919F-23CA-4056-89CB-D224312E1F64_zpsbzbmdm0j.jpg.html)

johngeorge

06-26-2015, 06:13 AM

SWEET!!! good find on the shifter stop. Boy thats some shiny gears you got there. See you at Limerock.

crash

06-26-2015, 09:42 AM

I tried to tell you all that these gear boxes were bordering on a work of art, but the pictures "tell a thousand words". We also, as we have stated, have found these transaxles very easy to work on. You still have to understand that the tolerances are tight and things have to be precisely put together, but the ease with which a Mendeola gearbox can be worked on in an emergency is phenominal!

Glad it was a simple fix for you. I think I called it after seeing your video of how the shifting was acting. That's because we have had the exact same issue. That is the one thing I would stress with a Mendeola gearbox in sequential configuration...that it requires precise shifter setup and if you are using cables, then a frequent attention to the adjustment so that the ratchet mechanism within the gearbox is travelled enough to do its job. If this is not done, it will cause larger issues. A little too much throw is okay. A little too little throw will cause major problems.

The Stig

06-26-2015, 11:06 AM

I tried to tell you all that these gear boxes were bordering on a work of art, but the pictures "tell a thousand words". We also, as we have stated, have found these transaxles very easy to work on. You still have to understand that the tolerances are tight and things have to be precisely put together, but the ease with which a Mendeola gearbox can be worked on in an emergency is phenomenal!

Glad it was a simple fix for you. I think I called it after seeing your video of how the shifting was acting. That's because we have had the exact same issue. That is the one thing I would stress with a Mendeola gearbox in sequential configuration...that it requires precise shifter setup and if you are using cables, then a frequent attention to the adjustment so that the ratchet mechanism within the gearbox is traveled enough to do its job. If this is not done, it will cause larger issues. A little too much throw is okay. A little too little throw will cause major problems.

Race testing absolutely has it's way of defining what the common issues are likely to be. It's also great that you're both willing to share info as opposed to learning and keeping it to yourselves.

Kudos!

Mike

kabacj

06-26-2015, 04:46 PM

SWEET!!! good find on the shifter stop. Boy thats some shiny gears you got there. See you at Limerock.

Yes I was thankful it was an easy fix. I'm looking forward to Limerock.

the ease with which a Mendeola gearbox can be worked on in an emergency is phenominal!

Glad it was a simple fix for you. I think I called it after seeing your video of how the shifting was acting. That's because we have had the exact same issue

Yep thanks for the help crash. The transaxle is so easy to take apart I'm going to get a few more gear sets so I can have the right gears for all the tracks I run.

Race testing absolutely has it's way of defining what the common issues are likely to be. It's also great that you're both willing to share info as opposed to learning and keeping it to yourselves.

Kudos!

Mike

Yep Mike. It also helps that we don't race against each other ;).

Seriously since there are so few GTMs that are race legal and or track prepped there is no other body of knowledge then what we share here. As with all Motorsport what is learned on the track makes the street car better. There are still things that must be learned by trial and error. Everybody wins when we learn things. Winning is what we are all about.

kabacj

06-28-2015, 07:55 AM

A tip regarding the knock sensors and kooks headers.

I have been running a bit harder lately as well as closed in the under side of the motor with an aluminum panel.

This makes it a bit more toasty under there especially after I come in to the pits after a race.

Last race at VIR I scorched my wiring harness even though it was shielded inside foil covered Fiberglas wrap.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/CBFC65A3-6EB6-4C20-A43B-1B4E3EC065F7_zpsrcdxlr7f.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/CBFC65A3-6EB6-4C20-A43B-1B4E3EC065F7_zpsrcdxlr7f.jpg.html)

I lengthened my wiring harness and brought the wires farther inboard.

I also noticed that my knock sensor connections were starting to melt.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/C74C8963-2F39-40EE-95B8-052E8FA04F85_zps5twmbrsa.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/C74C8963-2F39-40EE-95B8-052E8FA04F85_zps5twmbrsa.jpg.html)

I relocated them at a slightly different angle and made a shield from foil wrapped fiberglass to prevent further damage.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7B6DC2F5-BA6A-4EE6-B7DF-B63F670438C7_zpsvgoa7iem.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7B6DC2F5-BA6A-4EE6-B7DF-B63F670438C7_zpsvgoa7iem.jpg.html)

It's surprising how much heat radiates from the headers. It's probably good practice to anticipate that anything near the headers will be damaged by heat and shield accordingly.

John

The Stig

06-29-2015, 10:42 AM

kabacj

06-29-2015, 04:40 PM

I think you've just helped me to make a decision that I've been struggling with. I have the Kooks headers, and I had the complete system ceramic coated, but lately I've been wondering whether or not I should pull them and wrap them in header wrap in order to block a little more of the heat.

I think if I can figure out an easy way to take them out to do the job, I will put that on my list of things to do when I can get to it.

Mike

Mike.

Since you already have ceramic coated headers (the best solution for heat control) I would just keep a close eye on the vulnerable parts. Some people say wrapping the exhaust can limit its lifespan.

A quickly constructed heat shield will keep all of your plastic parts safe too. Much quicker and easier.

Just a thought.

John

kabacj

07-01-2015, 05:28 AM

I got my part from Mendiola last night. After a long day of work I finally got out into the garage at 9.00pm. Luckily the swap was quick.

All of the gears in a sequential transmission are stacked in order from first to fifth on the output shaft. First is closest to the motor and fifth is the most rearward.

Here is the input and and output stack on the ground.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/94505092-552F-4917-8952-331B099D6535_zpsyurkuat5.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/94505092-552F-4917-8952-331B099D6535_zpsyurkuat5.jpg.html)

I pulled the upper gear stack till I got to the face plate for third gear and saw the obvious problem.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/1814C270-48FD-48D9-BFC8-712189D3E1D5_zpsu2lkukbf.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/1814C270-48FD-48D9-BFC8-712189D3E1D5_zpsu2lkukbf.jpg.html)

You can see how both sides of the "teeth" on the face plate are rounded. The side of the tooth that engages the downshift is the most badly rounded.

You can see here in profile the rounded edges. With this condition there was barely any under cut to grab the gear and ramp it into engagement.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/3B5B3AD1-A126-401C-8F9D-896D1FB16F21_zpsm11pxyec.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/3B5B3AD1-A126-401C-8F9D-896D1FB16F21_zpsm11pxyec.jpg.html)

This is what it should look like.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/E43DBBB6-0FE8-490C-83E8-9CE31936F186_zpsz3d3b8ot.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/E43DBBB6-0FE8-490C-83E8-9CE31936F186_zpsz3d3b8ot.jpg.html)

On the positive side the transaxle is a breeze to work on as it's clearly been designed to be maintained just like the GP bikes I used to work on. ( it helps a lot when the engineer who designs the transaxle is also the guy who maintains it!)

The other parts of the transmission and gears look brand new.

Going forward I'll just treat these parts as wear parts like brake pads. I'm sure that keeping the shift leaver stops from backing out will greatly increase the lifespan of the faceplate and dog ring. ( the dog ring is the mirror image part held in the shift fork.

Tonight I can start the car up and run it though the gears to make sure all is well. Then I can pack up the trailer. Wow I'll be ready a day early. That's a record.

fastthings

07-01-2015, 07:26 AM

crash

07-01-2015, 09:58 AM

Just wondering...do you use the clutch when shifting? If you look at our latest video from Utah I am shifting our Mendeola like it is going out of style and only had one or two hiccups, which were clearly my fault. The shifts are VERY quick and I am using the clutch every time. I really see no reason to shift without the clutch and plenty of good reasons to shift with the clutch. One of the biggest is that it seems to be WAY easier on the dogs. I realize this current issue was caused by the adjustment problem, but just thought I would make the suggestion if you are not already using the clutch every time. I know I rarely, if ever, used the clutch on my motorcycle/quad after starting from a stop, but these gear boxes seem to like the clutch use and I am all for doing whatever is possible to keep the wear issues down to a minimum.

kabacj

07-01-2015, 05:25 PM

Never ends, does it. The most of it seems to be pretty reliable, I hope mine is.
The two fans I put in my engine bay really do well creating a flow of air, I can only imagine how nice it will be pulling in and turn on the fans for about 5 min and all is cool.
You should consider the same.
Looking forward to see some of your videos, have fun man!

Good idea Gene. Adding more cooling is on my list, but currently I'm finding where the problems are by trial and error. It's going to be hotter when I add a rear window. I'll probably need fans then.

Just wondering...do you use the clutch when shifting? If you look at our latest video from Utah I am shifting our Mendeola like it is going out of style and only had one or two hiccups, which were clearly my fault. The shifts are VERY quick and I am using the clutch every time. I really see no reason to shift without the clutch and plenty of good reasons to shift with the clutch. One of the biggest is that it seems to be WAY easier on the dogs.

I'm with you crash. I also clutch on shifts to make life easier on the dogs. I agree there I no real time penalty for the clutch and I like to take it easy on the equipment. I find as I'm sure you do running endurance being gentle with the equipment keeps you on the track longer. You need to first finish to finish first as they say.

I watched your video and I think I'm going to get a set of shorter gears. I shift less as I'm basically only ever in 3rd and 4th with 5th gear starting at 150 . I think a little more revs will help in tight traffic.

From your video. I like how in Arizona you trail dust for half a lap after doing a little off roading. With the dust trail its possible to see how well the wing is working.

Thanks for the tip.

John

crash

07-02-2015, 09:06 AM

Gearing is, as you know, a very important element in getting everything you can from the car. If you watch the Utah East Loop race I am shifting like crazy and, after review of the video, I probably should have shifted about 3-4 more times per lap. You can see the Vette and BMW pull away from me in the short straights where the GTMs legs don't get a chance to stretch. The issue was that we were down on power because of the elevation and our gearing was not correct for the track. This resulted in me having to try and get all the power out of the car by keeping the engine high in the power band. Because the gearing was a bit in between what it should have been for this track, I was having to shift quite a lot because I didn't want to drop the revs, but then would find myself bumping up against the rev limiter. A set of drop gears would have made a huge difference in being able to set the gearbox up quickly for this particular track, but alas, I don't think Mendeola is ever going to put this feature into their transaxles.

We go back next month to Utah and will be running the big outer loop course so top speeds should be significant and we will also be putting the larger engine in and removing weight, so things should be better for that race, even without any gearbox adjustments.

kabacj

07-02-2015, 05:08 PM

Gearing is, as you know, a very important element in getting everything you can from the car. Because the gearing was a bit in between what it should have been for this track, I was having to shift quite a lot because I didn't want to drop the revs, but then would find myself bumping up against the rev limiter. A set of drop gears would have made a huge difference in being able to set the gearbox up quickly for this particular track, but alas, I don't think Mendeola is ever going to put this feature into their transaxles.

Yep I agree drop gears are the easiest way to switch the setup the car. Next is having a box of ratios to swap in. Although I formerly was very happy just running in two tall gears all the time that is not the ideal way to go fast in traffic. Especially in a race , like you had and the 25, with small displacement cars mixed with the big bore cars.

I was happy running a setup where I shifted less as long as I could carry corner speed to compensate. When you get balked going into a corner by a slower car then having the right gear is more important.

I'm going to discuss my options with Ian at mendiola. Maybe we can come up with a short 3-4-5 combo that would be better. Or... I can just add power😃

The other thing about following a pack in traffic is visibility. I noticed you had to deal with that. All I ever see are trunk lids. It's like racing through a pack of SUVs. Sure would be nice to see through the cars ahead. NAH ! Being low is cool.

crash

07-06-2015, 09:28 AM

We worked with Ian quite a bit to get the gearbox right for the two tracks we primarily run. One is tighter, and one is more wide open, so we geared it so that we run gear 2-3-4 on the tighter track, and 3-4-5 on the faster track. It works very well for those two tracks, and anywhere else we run we try and "make do" so that we are not constantly working on the gear box. It's a compromise, but usually our relatively high HP to weight makes up for any gearing issues. Unfortunately the USTCC, the series we have only begun to run this year, has a HP to weight rule that makes us run less HP and more weight. We were almost 3200 LBS in Utah with just over 300 HP at the rear wheels. :(

Hence, shifting like crazy to get all the power out of the engine I could.

Visibility IS an issue, but really much more of a problem when trying to see to the rear. You will notice our "different" rear view mirrors mounted on the front fenders. They work pretty well, but the spotters work even better. If you are going to seriously race this car I would highly recommend getting a buddy to spot for you. Especially if there are faster cars than you on the track.

kabacj

07-07-2015, 05:45 AM

That's a good point Crash. Speaking of Mirrors. I had planned to change my mirrors to get a wider field of view but now that I have grown accustomed to using the rear camera I think I am less motivated.

I use this screen and camera. Both very cheap so I have a spare set.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/5E5C175B-D32B-4A25-B9B9-6707F5AEAF86_zpsqfuhndwb.png (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/5E5C175B-D32B-4A25-B9B9-6707F5AEAF86_zpsqfuhndwb.png.html)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007SLDF7O/ref=pd_aw_sim_422_19?refRID=1JMB83FY3VPY5R2P0HXC#

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/84CBB14B-CFE4-4270-8C69-FA1C4A406872_zpsijfh9sev.png (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/84CBB14B-CFE4-4270-8C69-FA1C4A406872_zpsijfh9sev.png.html)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Q65ZIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1436265295&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=backup+camera&dpPl=1&dpID=41ge7YXH0WL&ref=plSrch

Both have been soaked in water and vibrated harshly for over 80 hours on the track and are fine.

Not sure how it would work for night racing as I have not done that yet, but it's worth a try.

It's just as good as a multi panel racing rear view mirror in a conventional car. You only need to get used to the aspect ratio and then it's perfect.

Of course spotters are better but more information usually helps.

crash

07-07-2015, 01:25 PM

We actually explored the rear view camera stuff pretty extensively. We went through a regular rear view camera such as you have there, and also tried a FLIR camera. The problem for us was that we are so busy racing with 60 other cars on the track that we literally have no time to look down at a screen or even the gages. We use the gages to identify what has gone wrong as opposed to heading off problems because we are quite busy passing 8-12 cars a lap. Yes we lap some cars every three laps! The option of putting the display up where the bump in the hood is was discussed, but it never happened. The mirrors seem to work fine combined with a spotter or two.

flickery8

07-10-2015, 03:35 PM

The mirrors seem to work fine combined with a spotter or two. Crash has "special" mirrors that I wish I had. They stick up several inches. With my widend rear fenders my mirrors give me a good view of my fender. I have bought some extra mirrors to try to attach to the A pillar, but haven't figured anything out yet.

I have a rear view camera, but mine is not bright enough for my liking. Has that been an issue John?

kabacj

07-10-2015, 04:17 PM

O

I have a rear view camera, but mine is not bright enough for my liking. Has that been an issue John?

Hey Fickery

The screen I have is pretty good. If it's a very sunny day I'll just put a shade over it so the sun does not shine on the face of the screen.

Glare into the camera is the only issue I have had. This happens late in the day when the sun is shining into the lens at a low angle. I have a better camera that I have yet to install. Maybe that one will auto white balance a bit better. At 5x the cost ($100) I hope it does.

I had the RCA jacks pull out once, but now I duct tape them together and they have been good.

kabacj

07-14-2015, 06:51 AM

Fun weekend at Lime Rock Park

Saturday was a picture perfect July day. 80 degrees sunny with a light breeze.

Limerock park is set in some of the most picturesque real estate in Connecticut. Every time I drive up I think to myself "I can't believe there is a race track in the middle of this "

That's most likely why there are only a few unmuffled days where we can take out loud cars out on the track.

This is only my second time at Limerock. I'm starting to like it a lot. On the down side Limrock barriers total a few cars each weekend, but if you can keep all four wheels on the pavement it's a blast.

Me having fun.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/D64E1EF5-8172-44A5-8202-901E0A7F9A08_zpsak3umhye.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/D64E1EF5-8172-44A5-8202-901E0A7F9A08_zpsak3umhye.jpg.html)

As nice as Friday was. Saturday weather was not as good for my setup.

I had a nice new set of front R7s that I needed to scuff prior to the race.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/556312FA-AAE7-4226-A16A-CEFA4C975C2A_zpskyjgm1ju.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/556312FA-AAE7-4226-A16A-CEFA4C975C2A_zpskyjgm1ju.jpg.html)

Practice was drizzling. I went out on scuffed Hoosier A6 slicks but cut the session short as it was a little too slippery.

Qualifying was full wet. Guys with rains were happy. I only had a set of well worn 888s. Last time I ran them in the rain the rears would hydroplane over the smallest standing water.

I'd rather start from the back then loop my car into a wall so I stayed in the pits.
Turned out the race was just as wet. Unprepared for the conditions (the forecast was for sunny skies!) I figured discretion was the better part of valor.

My fellow factory five drivers went out and qualified well and raced very well. Pat and John had a great weekend bringing home plenty of hardware.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7CBEC64D-3441-461C-ADFA-C85B622B236B_zpsfnkcfxep.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7CBEC64D-3441-461C-ADFA-C85B622B236B_zpsfnkcfxep.jpg.html)

Here Pat leads and gets the over all and class win.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/F865281B-02DA-4823-BFB9-6F3850A23497_zpsrurleo2t.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/F865281B-02DA-4823-BFB9-6F3850A23497_zpsrurleo2t.jpg.html)

That's two years in a row where Pat won the Fourth of July race in the wet. His win was great to watch( normally I can't watch our race) and a great conclusion to the weekend.

crash

07-14-2015, 08:50 AM

I think you made the right decision. These cars are a handful in the rain.

kabacj

07-14-2015, 11:00 AM

I think you made the right decision. These cars are a handful in the rain.

I'm interested to try a set of full rains. My experience racing motorcycles using rain tires was night and day. I could put my knee down on the pavement in a downpour. With dot R compound treaded tires I would instantly crash if I tried that.

I actually like driving the GTM in the rain. (As long as I have some tire tread). Wet track takes the traction limit from super high to normal levels which feel safer to explore.... Even if they are just as difficult

I just don't like testing traction with a wall a few feet off the track. I gotta hand it to the guys who raced on SAT.

Next year I'm bringing rain tires so they better watch out! Ha ha

crash

07-14-2015, 11:13 AM

It really depends on the rain tires. We(I) tested three different brands of rain tires last year at the 25 and there is a HUGE difference. Not saying that driving in the rain fast is not doable in a GTM, but certainly a front weight biased car is much easier to deal with when the rear is trying to put power down. Just like in the dry, the mid engine GTM has a much smaller window of error as compared to the front engine cars. I have had very little issues driving for hours at speed in the rain in the FFR PDG GTM, but have looped it twice during wet track events. Usually the biggest issue is when it just starts and half the track is wet and half the track is dry. Very difficult. Must watch for water on the windshield. When in doubt, be safe. Rain, grass, and hard walls are not safe. You made the right choice.

kabacj

07-14-2015, 07:13 PM

It really depends on the rain tires. We(I) tested three different brands of rain tires last year at the 25 and there is a HUGE difference. .

Which rain tires do you like? I was thinking of going with Hoosier H20 but that choice would only be because they are the ones I see most guys use.

Stage7

07-19-2015, 10:08 AM

You are the man Kabacj! You've been busy getting things done. Impressive. We should lunch again soon.

kabacj

07-21-2015, 07:50 AM

You are the man Kabacj! You've been busy getting things done. Impressive. We should lunch again soon.

HI Stage. Thanks! I'll PM you. We need to catch up.

Yesterday was a mile stone. I got my New York State VIN.

As usual there was paperwork and process but the final hurdle was physical.

I needed to drive the GTM into their shop for inspection. Easy enough...except

I took the GTM on the trailer to the inspection location. The shop has a small parking far too small for my pickup and 30 foot trailer. lI park on the street. Uh oh. The ramp into the inspection station has such a drastic hump I'm sure normal sports cars scrape. The GTM would scrape then high center.

I explain my situation to the DMV who were shockingly nice. They said just back the trailer in and offload. Ok that means I block 15 cars into the lot. Hmm this is going to be good.

Ok just unload the GTM now. Oh great. The parking lot has a drastic pitch and now one side of the trailer door is 12 inches in the air. Luckily I have lots of wood and two piece race ramps.

I rolled the GTM out on the ramps and trailer door enough so the inspectors could check it out. But no way I was unloading it. Whew. I got my VIN.

I added this rear marker light as its required in New York. I need to find a nicer one

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/298F7D5C-8FD7-492F-8B6D-21CF2620CE4C_zpseqv7t14b.jpg

One more piece of paperwork and I'm ready for safety inspection.

mikespms

07-21-2015, 09:06 AM

Congratulations! A lot of heads are going to turn when drive down the street on a street legal race car,awesome!

I took my car to the dmv inspection on a trailer and the inspector was very nice,there was a crowd around the car asking questions and taking pictures and he was annoyed with the people and told me not to unload the car he just went over the requirements and asked me if I complied and gave me the vin decal for me to put on the car while he watched.

Fraser D

07-21-2015, 12:08 PM

Congratulations John!

kabacj

09-01-2015, 05:14 AM

Thanks Mike and Dave. On to a part of the build both of you are familiar with. Fiberglass work!

Before the weather turns cold I need to get the GTM painted.

Much easier to do when I can bake the car in the summer sun and spray in a temporary tent outside. Not to mention making dust outside is much nicer then making a fog of dust in the garage.

Step one is to expand the body to cover the larger front tires.

My first set of tires were 245s. Now I am running 295s. They stick out of the body quite a bit. I also needed to cut the wheel wells for clearance.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7AD75B08-CE12-4229-BE95-F6F6861100D6_zpsawxlijcn.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7AD75B08-CE12-4229-BE95-F6F6861100D6_zpsawxlijcn.jpg.html)

No problem. I just need to flare out the wheel wells a bit. I've read about this technique in books, but never tried it. Oh well here goes.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/3B83D4A6-15CE-44FA-994D-ABA998DB701F_zps2uef9ir8.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/3B83D4A6-15CE-44FA-994D-ABA998DB701F_zps2uef9ir8.jpg.html)

I just used insulation foam to build up the shape. Actually was pretty easy. It just took a few hours.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/5EE5D458-C0AA-4CDC-928F-78ACE76D0B6C_zpsn76ihhqt.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/5EE5D458-C0AA-4CDC-928F-78ACE76D0B6C_zpsn76ihhqt.jpg.html)

I matched both sides and put down a few layers of epoxy and fiberglass cloth and I had this. Still lots of trimming and shaping to be done as both sides are a bit over sized but the basic shape is getting there.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/2A0E02A2-4DF7-4546-81A0-6D24AD6D99C7_zpsq2babcuv.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/2A0E02A2-4DF7-4546-81A0-6D24AD6D99C7_zpsq2babcuv.jpg.html)

Now all I need to do is blend the hood into the body then I can perfect all of the lines. I'm working on that now.

John

kabacj

09-29-2015, 06:19 PM

Lots of dust at my house.

Spent another few days tweaking and re tweaking the front fender flares to cover the bigger 295 tires.

I have a curse that I can see very tiny variations in symmetry. And yes It's a race car, but I never can stop at that's good enough for the traditional 50 feet and 50 mph.

I'd rather wreck a perfect car then have a car I don't mind wrecking

The shaping part is fun. The fiberglass splinters are a little annoying.

I used epoxy and glass cloth to rebuild the fenders. The positive of epoxy is it's a little stronger then polyester. It sticks way better to the current body then polyester resin and I can use cheap foam to build up the parts. (Polyester resin melts the pink foam you get at Home Depot) so far the hood is lighter then when I started.

A gallon of epoxy resin and hardener is over 100 bucks. But parts are strong and light. And more importantly I can get foam at Home Depot very cheaply. I think epoxy is the way to go.

Yeah I am tempted to just send it to somebody, but as everyone knows 1% of the body/ paint guys can deliver a finished product as promised on time... And none of them (unless it's your personal friend ) are going to put love into the car.

On the good side the remainder of the bodywork should be easier. Just a few little items to address

As usual I have a deadline. Oct 25.

I love deadlines.

John

Fraser D

09-30-2015, 08:03 AM

I am looking forward to seeing your progress.

carbon fiber

09-30-2015, 08:49 AM

I've had some bad results with epoxy on polyester and vinyl ester in the past. (GTM is vinyl ester) I know some will disagree, as I've had this conversation on both forums now. I use the same materials the original part is made of. Epoxy does have a better bond than vinyl ester in general, but the vinyl ester seems to melt together with itself better than epoxy bonds to it. One thing to consider is making a multi piece mold of your finished front end and make a new one in one piece. I know a lot more work, but I'd do that anyway, so that if your front end is damaged you'll be able to replace it easily verses having to repair it or redo all the work you've done modifying it. (You could have a spare ready at home if you need it.) I'm making molds for my revised bodywork. (Admittedly more time/mods to worry about than what you've got there) Just something to think about.

kabacj

09-30-2015, 04:59 PM

I am looking forward to seeing your progress.

Yes I know Dave. I need to post pictures. I'll get on that.

I've had some bad results with epoxy on polyester and vinyl ester in the past. (GTM is vinyl ester) I know some will disagree, as I've had this conversation on both forums now. I use the same materials the original part is made of. Epoxy does have a better bond than vinyl ester in general, but the vinyl ester seems to melt together with itself better than epoxy bonds to it. One thing to consider is making a multi piece mold of your finished front end and make a new one in one piece. I know a lot more work, but I'd do that anyway, so that if your front end is damaged you'll be able to replace it easily verses having to repair it or redo all the work you've done modifying it. (You could have a spare ready at home if you need it.) I'm making molds for my revised bodywork. (Admittedly more time/mods to worry about than what you've got there) Just something to think about.

Yeah. This is V 1.0. Of the hood. Just the fenders and some minor tweeks

Since the paint only looks good for a season I'll be painting it again this time next year or sooner. I'll add round two of changes after I can test the aero changes of V 1.0

I should make a mold. That's yet another thing I have never done before. At least I'll know who to go to if I have questions.

carbon fiber

10-02-2015, 08:57 AM

If you need any info just PM me. Your suspension info is helping us all.

longislandwrx

10-27-2015, 11:40 AM

how did the paint job go? will I see it cruising around East Northport before it cools off?

kabacj

10-27-2015, 09:30 PM

how did the paint job go? will I see it cruising around East Northport before it cools off?

I gotta tell you. And you know me . I have no problem sinking tons of time in car. Bodywork takes FOREVER!!

A few lessons learned.

Lesson one. Painting a car that has been on the race track for 2 years is MUCH harder than painting your clean and un damaged body shell from factory five.

WOW I did not realize how much that body had been abused. On the good side the fiberglass is over built and stands up to that type of punishment. On the bad side I had lots of scrapes and other damage from projectiles that really took a while to fix.

Oh the fact that the car is covered in oil from its duty as a track weapon also makes things harder. Lots of cleaning before you even start working

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/21BEBAC0-D561-412F-A5C2-1342BBA3E2BB_zpsouhmbfpf.jpg[/URL

The body goes on and off lots and lots of times.

Here is a mid work view of the body back on.

[URL=http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/D5C58FDC-03E9-4416-8D94-1B2E61552BE7_zpspwiapv5b.jpg.html]http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/D5C58FDC-03E9-4416-8D94-1B2E61552BE7_zpspwiapv5b.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/21BEBAC0-D561-412F-A5C2-1342BBA3E2BB_zpsouhmbfpf.jpg.html)

After the body work phase then its the block and prime, block and prime, block and prime. Boy I did lots of sanding.. A good body buck is essential. I actually made this one a bit higher so I could spray under the rockers more easily.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/2ECF674E-C10A-4B4C-9B80-6C1B64535437_zps9rzvgsrp.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/2ECF674E-C10A-4B4C-9B80-6C1B64535437_zps9rzvgsrp.jpg.html)

Did I mention that bodywork takes a long time!

But to answer your question, YES! Absolutely I will be driving around town in the next few weeks. That's going to be weird but I cant wait!

RumRunner

10-27-2015, 09:41 PM

kabacj

10-28-2015, 05:08 AM

John,

Nice work. Only those that have done it themselves can appreciate the block and prime cycle. I can't say I miss those days! Looking forward to seeing the final result.

And nice wedding tent!

-Michael

Hey Michael.

Yeah I got the idea from you regarding the wedding tent spray booth.

It worked very well.

For 200 bucks on Amazon you get a 10x 20 tent. Sure it's not made for a lifetime of use, but it will last a week while you paint. Mine was up in high winds 20 mph and survived. They say it's not made for greater than 10 mph. I agree it's lightweight.

I hung fluorescent lights along the side so I had reasonable light. I even did some painting at night.

Finally I setup the tent with two 20 inch box fans blowing air in instead of blowing air out.

The fans were filtered and aimed up toward the roof of the tent. The air blowing in didn't disturb spraying in the tent but also had the benefit of keeping the tent walls flexed out Air escaped from under the tent sides. Sorta down draft!

This setup didn't work as well when winds were over 10mph. But in light wind it was great. Very little dust fell into the paint.

kabacj

10-29-2015, 05:29 AM

One of the things I wanted to do before I painted the car was flare the front fenders over the 295 front tires.

My goal was to improve the aero on the car over my hacked up wheel openings and hopefully make the wheel arches look like they came like that from factory five.

This job turned out to be way more work than I planned. Matching the lines on the car and making everything symmetrical is not easy. Especially when you are building into thin air (no reference points like you would have if you were repairing a fender.

On the good side I got lots of practice laying down body filler and sanding it off.

My other goal as to keep the fenders the stock 1/8 to 1/4 inch finished thickness. Mostly fiberglass cloth with a thin layer of filler over top

Strength is not an issue below 1/8 inch but rocks are surely going to spiderweb the paint above if you go any thinner.

With slick tires the wheel wells take tons of punishment. Unless you design a double wall wheel well or don't mind ruined paint you need to keep the fenders at Rock proof thickness.

Here is a picture of the work in progress. Note where I cut through the gel coat. Beware you are entering pinhole hell as soon as you do this.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/BF2AEA14-A97F-41EE-9714-8684363A88BF_zpsorabv2i4.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/BF2AEA14-A97F-41EE-9714-8684363A88BF_zpsorabv2i4.jpg.html)
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/50737DC1-3206-4155-B48D-F398EBC27C9B_zpsylbooqae.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/50737DC1-3206-4155-B48D-F398EBC27C9B_zpsylbooqae.jpg.html)

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/CCBF1640-7BA6-4B2A-B89E-3CABFFAB0D16_zpsnkeuyoqz.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/CCBF1640-7BA6-4B2A-B89E-3CABFFAB0D16_zpsnkeuyoqz.jpg.html)

RumRunner

10-29-2015, 07:21 AM

Strength is not an issue below 1/8 inch but rocks are surely going to spiderweb the paint above if you go any thinner.

With slick tires the wheel wells take tons of punishment. Unless you design a double wall wheel well or don't mind ruined paint you need to keep the fenders at Rock proof thickness.

John,

To prevent the spiderwebs, I lined the inside of each wheel well with 1/4" dynaliner. It's closed cell foam so it doesn't hold moisture, provides enough cushioning to minimize any damage from rocks, inexpensive for what it protects, easy to apply, and so far has held up very well.

-Michael

kabacj

10-29-2015, 08:12 AM

John,

To prevent the spiderwebs, I lined the inside of each wheel well with 1/4" dynamat. It's closed cell foam so it doesn't hold moisture, provides enough cushioning to minimize any damage from rocks, inexpensive for what it protects, easy to apply, and so far has held up very well.

-Michael

Very good idea Michael. After 2 years I did not have any issues with the stock hood, however I would love to make an ultra thin lightweight version for the track. Dynamat is a great way to protect thin fiberglass

crash

10-29-2015, 09:36 AM

mikespms

10-29-2015, 12:15 PM

kabacj

10-29-2015, 02:51 PM

The pin holes are nothing a good primer will not take care of.

Looking at your pictures it looks really nice to have such tight wheel openings, but have you jacked up the car and tried to change a tire? Looks like it might become a chore once the suspension drops.

Good point Crash but with the hood tilted up the front tires are far from the wheel arches. I usually jack from the front under the corner of the hood as my light weight jack is not low enough to fit under the car.

No clearance issues. Maybe if I use the low profile jack behind the front tire with the hood closed it would be a problem. Ill check, but I'm not doing nascar style pit stops so popping the hood works.

RumRunner

10-29-2015, 03:03 PM

Hey John,
Nice work, glass and body work is time consuming and tedious. For the pin holes l recommend duratec primer sealer, it is like gel coat easy to sand and will prevent sand marks and lifting. Fo the wheel wells a good heavy coat of spay on urathane truck bed liner will do the job and is a lot lighter than the dynamat.

Whoops! I meant DynaLiner - not the sticky asphalty dynamat! The dynaliner is very lightweight.

Thanks for the catch!

-Michael

kabacj

10-29-2015, 04:34 PM

Hey John,
Nice work, glass and body work is time consuming and tedious. For the pin holes l recommend duratec primer sealer, it is like gel coat easy to sand and will prevent sand marks and lifting. Fo the wheel wells a good heavy coat of spay on urathane truck bed liner will do the job and is a lot lighter than the dynamat.

Yep Mike, I agree the Duratec is great stuff. It filled many holes, but some needed a follow up pass with glazing putty to fill.

I'm trying the truck bed liner on my aluminum close off panels. Traditional 3m rubberized under coat was rock blasted right off.

Fraser D

10-29-2015, 06:30 PM

Yep Mike, I agree the Duratec is great stuff. It filled many holes, but some needed a follow up pass with glazing putty to fill.

I'm trying the truck bed liner on my aluminum close off panels. Traditional 3m rubberized under coat was rock blasted right off.

I used truck bed liner as well with good results so far.

kabacj

10-30-2015, 04:47 AM

I used truck bed liner as well with good results so far.

Good news Dave. I think truck be liner is the hot ticket.

kabacj

10-30-2015, 05:41 AM

Once the front was done I began prepping the roof and thinking about installing my modified roof scoop.

As I'm sanding away the layers of hot rod black on top of a coat of epoxy primer I remember the research i did on NACA ducts.

Back in the late 40s the Air force was developing jets. The engines were not very powerful so the aircraft designs attempted to be as low drag as possible.

One of the ideas they had was to submerge the intakes with the aircraft exterior instead of sticking a high drag scoop up into the airstream

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/90440615-ADE9-4804-880A-02370D57574C_zpsugemfjdv.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/90440615-ADE9-4804-880A-02370D57574C_zpsugemfjdv.jpg.html)

Lots of information on the Internet on how they work. Seemed perfect for my application. Low drag and since I don't need positive pressure seems perfect.

The design creates vortices that deflect air into the inlet.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/125937DA-0625-475D-BD96-D75BD69E3573_zpsyww6gi5f.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/125937DA-0625-475D-BD96-D75BD69E3573_zpsyww6gi5f.jpg.html)

Since I was creating tons of dust on the roof I was able to see it work as I blasted air over the roof I could see the vortices form and the air dive down into the inlet.

Cool!

A little foam and fiberglass and I had a NACA duct on my roof.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/847CFF5C-D262-4492-8A5C-043EE3AA8E2F_zps7klcta5n.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/847CFF5C-D262-4492-8A5C-043EE3AA8E2F_zps7klcta5n.jpg.html)

Aceflo

10-30-2015, 06:31 AM

That's pretty cool. Do you think that it will create more or less wind noise, cut in this fashion, compared to the standard roof scoop sold for the kit?

kabacj

10-30-2015, 10:24 AM

That's pretty cool. Do you think that it will create more or less wind noise, cut in this fashion, compared to the standard roof scoop sold for the kit?

Hi Aceflo

Which intake will make more noise? Good question.

I think I depends a lot on how fast you are going and how you mount the intake.

Noise comes from turbulence. To the extent that you are creating turbulent air you will hear it.

The NACA duct is all about creating vortices. How loud are they? No idea.

the roof scoop offer very little turbulence if it is only cosmetic. (No flow through) If you plan to allow air into the engine compartment how you do that will determine how much wind noise is generated.

My original plan was to first create a smooth duct into the engine compartment you can see here.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/C37883D0-9623-4D60-9504-EF92086B364A.png_zps3vgcrdg1.jpeg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/C37883D0-9623-4D60-9504-EF92086B364A.png_zps3vgcrdg1.jpeg.html)

Then install a modified version of the stock duct. My modification included smoothing out the air path through the stock duct by building up the air path with foam and covering with fiberglass.

Not sure which would produce more wind noise. I think this is the kind of thing you would need to test.

All that said there are many many things you can do to your GTM far more easily like sealing the passenger compartment that will quiet your GTM down.

Production cars are so tight they install vents in the car so you can close the doors else the airlock would bounce the door open as well as make your ears pop when you slam the door.

Those vents are specially designed to allow air out but not sound in.. yes I did lots of research on this too :)

kabacj

10-30-2015, 04:46 PM

RumRunner

10-30-2015, 05:06 PM

John,

That shot looks absolutely fantastic! If the rest of your car looks half as good as that, it's a stunner! The red stripe along the top of the duct is a great design element. Well done.

-Michael

Aceflo

10-30-2015, 07:15 PM

Thanks John. I'm super interested in what you discover in regards to the noise that it produces.

I definitely will be using a roof scoop of some variation, and I really like your idea here. It looks great.

Fraser D

10-30-2015, 07:42 PM

Very nice John!
So she is white now?

kabacj

11-01-2015, 07:12 AM

Very nice John!
So she is white now?

Yes sir. My street vehicles have only ever been black. Track vehicles have been many colors, so since the GTM is mostly track I figured I would make an exception to the black rule.

Thanks John. I'm super interested in what you discover in regards to the noise that it produces.

I definitely will be using a roof scoop of some variation, and I really like your idea here. It looks great.

Hi Aceflo. Here are some pictures of the mods I did to the stock scoop.

from the bottom you can see I created a smooth (but not finished yet) air path that matched the cut out on the roof.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/B420CA2B-8E4F-469A-9229-138C3B4C448F_zpsotn6az0j.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/B420CA2B-8E4F-469A-9229-138C3B4C448F_zpsotn6az0j.jpg.html)

and from the front view I smoothed the transitions to that air path.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/F2715D74-917B-45FB-9C5F-791B9A853B6D_zpshmlumzmf.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/F2715D74-917B-45FB-9C5F-791B9A853B6D_zpshmlumzmf.jpg.html)

My goal was lower drag, but it turns out that turbulence causes drag but also sound. So we are looking to eliminate the same thing.

John,

That shot looks absolutely fantastic! If the rest of your car looks half as good as that, it's a stunner! The red stripe along the top of the duct is a great design element. Well done.

-Michael

Thanks Michael. I was thinking about the livery while I was sanding for several days and the intake and graphics sorta came together in an idea for a livery.

kabacj

11-02-2015, 07:10 AM

After burning in the midnight oil for two weeks. Guess what shows up! The mother ship.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/0BFA43E0-6EA8-4A4F-8582-B40C9290C0DC_zpst76qq14f.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/0BFA43E0-6EA8-4A4F-8582-B40C9290C0DC_zpst76qq14f.jpg.html)

It was great to see Scott again. Scott is the expert driver of the Factory five transporter.

And away she goes off to SEMA.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/8B18C32A-45D7-4C0A-98D0-8D6198A64A13_zpscozplckp.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/8B18C32A-45D7-4C0A-98D0-8D6198A64A13_zpscozplckp.jpg.html)

kabacj

11-03-2015, 01:21 PM

Here we are at the show.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/50AB5253-FA08-42D7-86EB-C8258B1E257B_zps9czhuk3v.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/50AB5253-FA08-42D7-86EB-C8258B1E257B_zps9czhuk3v.jpg.html)

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7AF255EF-59C9-4F52-B2EC-F7BF5DE847A1_zpsgyxeq24q.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7AF255EF-59C9-4F52-B2EC-F7BF5DE847A1_zpsgyxeq24q.jpg.html)

John

Fraser D

11-03-2015, 01:43 PM

Congratulations John!!!

claybags

11-03-2015, 02:11 PM

John, that is totally outstanding!!
Jeff

crash

11-03-2015, 03:09 PM

Kinda surprised that FFR put your car in its booth after the significant nose change. They always told us that they wanted the body to stay as close to what they offered out of the mold as possible. It looks good, I'm just a little surprised. Maybe FFR will finally embrace the significant changes I have made? Yeah, probably not. :(

Enjoy the show. Wish I could have made it out there this year.

kabacj

11-03-2015, 04:05 PM

Aceflo

11-03-2015, 04:44 PM

I like what you did with the Factory Five Badge and the stripe. Pretty cool looking.

RumRunner

11-03-2015, 08:31 PM

John,

Simply stunning! Congratulations!

--Michael

kabacj

11-03-2015, 11:32 PM

I like what you did with the Factory Five Badge and the stripe. Pretty cool looking.

Thanks man.

Here is a close up.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/SEMA%202015/DSC_1822_zpsjf5cuwbb.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/SEMA%202015/DSC_1822_zpsjf5cuwbb.jpg.html)

kabacj

11-03-2015, 11:34 PM

Thanks Michael

I'm happy with how it turned out

Presto51

11-04-2015, 06:18 AM

John now that looks fantastic. You are proving that you are a component car renaissance man\GTM Whisper :rolleyes:

kabacj

11-04-2015, 09:52 AM

John now that looks fantastic. You are proving that you are a component car renaissance man\GTM Whisper :rolleyes:

Haha

So in with the emblem I wanted it to fit tightly and flush to the surrounding body.

It's impossible for Favtory Five to mold the impression for the emblem that shape as the edges would not have any draft angle to release from the mold.

So to get the sharp 90 degree edges I wanted I first filled the outside of the impression with fiber reenforced filler.

Then I cut a wooden puck slightly larger then the emblem.

I covered the puck with 80 grit paper and mounted the puck on a hole saw mandrel.

Then proceeded to cut a nice square edged impression for the emblem.

Worked very well.

Aceflo

11-04-2015, 07:57 PM

So John .... where did you get the idea to do the emblem/stripe?

Out of all the details about the car, the emblem work really differentiates between good and great work. It's the fine details that count, and some ideas that I have seen from your build really surprise me. I would find myself hard pressed to think .... "hey, that emblem doesn't quite look right. Let's change how it sits on the car, and then accent it with a stripe to top it off".

So do you wake up in the middle of the night, from a dead sleep, and say "Hey! Let's cut the nose off the car and reshape my own!"? :cool:

kabacj

11-05-2015, 01:22 AM

So John .... where did you get the idea to do the emblem"hey, that emblem doesn't quite look right. Let's change how it sits on the car, and then accent it with a stripe to top it off".

Thank you sir.

The GTM body was made to be mass produced. I Just change it to how I think you would make it if you only needed to make one.

While I was sanding for hours the design just came to me. I like it, People seem to like it. I'm happy with that

john

LCD Gauges

11-05-2015, 02:31 AM

Insane conversion from the last time I checked in! The paint theme looks great!

mikespms

11-05-2015, 09:17 AM

Haha

So in with the emblem I wanted it to fit tightly and flush to the surrounding body.

It's impossible for Favtory Five to mold the impression for the emblem that shape as the edges would not have any draft angle to release from the mold.

So to get the sharp 90 degree edges I wanted I first filled the outside of the impression with fiber reenforced filler.

Then I cut a wooden puck slightly larger then the emblem.

I covered the puck with 80 grit paper and mounted the puck on a hole saw mandrel.

Then proceeded to cut a nice square edged impression for the emblem.

Worked very well.

Hey John,
Congratulations! That's what I call kicking ***,knocking out the bodywork and paint in short order with great results.
I used the same technique to flush mount my gas caps.
Now for some action shots and updates on your mechanical upgrades and trans,Again well done!

The Stig

11-05-2015, 10:23 AM

In so after all the research on drag and airflow I ended up using the NACA duct as both a drag reduction measure and design element.

I love when the same thing serves multiple purposes.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/556B6D01-7D93-4257-BC56-56437525FC97_zpsqbyarodr.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/556B6D01-7D93-4257-BC56-56437525FC97_zpsqbyarodr.jpg.html)

John

John, That is an awesome picture. I love the ITB intakes. (Hillborn?) I know that you've set this up for race only, but could something like that work well for street? I know that it isn't necessary for street applications, but it just completely "makes" the look of the car from the rear.

Great job with the body. The whole car looks great. Congrats!

Mike

NewToy

11-05-2015, 12:37 PM

Great work! I love the way the stripe ties into the scoop.

longislandwrx

11-06-2015, 06:53 AM

kabacj

11-06-2015, 09:11 PM

John, That is an awesome picture. I love the ITB intakes. (Hillborn?) I know that you've set this up for race only, but could something like that work well for street? I know that it isn't necessary for street applications, but it just completely "makes" the look of the car from the rear.

Great job with the body. The whole car looks great. Congrats!

Mike

Hi Mike.

Thanks for the kind words. Yes folks do use the ITBs on the street but they are very tricky to make smooth. They have so much torque on throttle tip in that the ride can be a bit jerky.

If you de tune them they are smoother.

So it depends what you want. I personally love them and would not use anything else.

kabacj

11-06-2015, 09:13 PM

I cant believe the transporter and probably the 818c was 2 minutes away. I wish I had known! but I'm guessing you had to keep it under wraps.

Congrats on a beautiful job well done. I imagine few would suspect that that was a driveway paint job!

Yeah it was a big hit. Thanks for the compliments. After I cut and buff it and take the dust out it will be too nice to wreck on the track.

Oh well it will be nice for a few months.

mlkwd1

11-07-2015, 09:34 PM

Yeah it was a big hit. Thanks for the compliments. After I cut and buff it and take the dust out it will be too nice to wreck on the track.

Oh well it will be nice for a few months.

John, Just got back from SEMA this morning. Your car looks fantastic with the body mods and the new paint. It was great talking to you and thank you for the swaybar and coilover photos as well as the technical help. Looking forward to seeing you at NJMP in the Spring.

kabacj

11-09-2015, 06:38 AM

I cant believe the transporter and probably the 818c was 2 minutes away. I wish I had known! but I'm guessing you had to keep it under wraps.

Congrats on a beautiful job well done. I imagine few would suspect that that was a driveway paint job!

Thanks man. Yes the 818c was in our neighborhood. It was also a big hit at the show. Sort of a mini GTM at a far more affordable price point.

Insane conversion from the last time I checked in! The paint theme looks great!

Thanks very much.

John, Just got back from SEMA this morning. Your car looks fantastic with the body mods and the new paint. It was great talking to you and thank you for the swaybar and coilover photos as well as the technical help. Looking forward to seeing you at NJMP in the Spring.

It was great meeting you as well. It is going to be great running with another GTM at the track in the spring. We have a quite a few cars at the NASA races these days. It will be great to have another GTM in the factory five Pit.

mlkwd1

11-09-2015, 04:10 PM

I stopped down to NJMP yesterday. It was very cold but there were plenty of cars running. I was on the waiting list but did not make the cut so I just stopped by with the GTM and my son for a couple hours to watch. At least 5 different people showed interest in the car and I spent most of the time showing them the car vs watching what was on the track.

Brett33

11-09-2015, 04:35 PM

let me know when you guys are heading to NJMP, i live about 20 minutes away. I would like to see you guys run.

kabacj

11-10-2015, 11:47 AM

I stopped down to NJMP yesterday. It was very cold but there were plenty of cars running. At least 5 different people showed interest in the car and I spent most of the time showing them the car vs watching what was on the track.

Ha ha yep that's the drill. People love the GTM.

let me know when you guys are heading to NJMP, i live about 20 minutes away. I would like to see you guys run.

It's probably not going to be until next year as everything shuts down come dec1

Speaking of people loving the GTM. Courtney Hanson is a big GTM fan. She asked me if she could drive it. I told her sure why not! I wonder if she will take me up on that.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/AC05E0C0-20F5-468F-9407-2BF83A822889_zpsr99nuoat.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/AC05E0C0-20F5-468F-9407-2BF83A822889_zpsr99nuoat.jpg.html)

Presto51

11-10-2015, 05:06 PM

Speaking of people loving the GTM. Courtney Hanson is a big GTM fan. She asked me if she could drive it. I told her sure why not! I wonder if she will take me up on that.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/AC05E0C0-20F5-468F-9407-2BF83A822889_zpsr99nuoat.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/AC05E0C0-20F5-468F-9407-2BF83A822889_zpsr99nuoat.jpg.html)

Watch out John, if Courtney brings her father, you might not get your GTM back :rolleyes:

Ron

fastthings

11-11-2015, 06:03 PM

So cool, good show man.
Your mods are so cool. I like following what your doing.

Aceflo

11-11-2015, 07:20 PM

John,

Have you had a chance to drive it yet, since you did the last roof mod?

-Rick

kabacj

11-11-2015, 09:23 PM

John,

Have you had a chance to drive it yet, since you did the last roof mod?

-Rick

Hey Rick,
My GTM is down in Florida with the Factory Five team. It will head back up north early next week. Ill be sure to let you know how it works with the NACA duct and the glass installed. I have been researching smoke generators. I was thinking about filling the engine compartment with smoke so I can see how the air flows through it. I would like to do experiments with the cooling up front as well. Could be a little dangerous so i ill probably do the testing off public roads, but I am sure it will be interesting.

The next phase of the build is going to be all about aerodynamics and tuning the car for minimum drag and maximum down force. Ideally I will have a low drag configuration and a max down force configuration. This amount of tuning is far from necessary for racing at my level, but it sure will be fun to experiment.

Its a long winter and the car is sort of done. So I need to fix that.

So cool, good show man.
Your mods are so cool. I like following what your doing.

Thanks Gene. You will be happy to know that lots of the GTM customers I spoke to at SEMA have watched all of your videos. We like to follow what you did as well!

Watch out John, if Courtney brings her father, you might not get your GTM back :rolleyes:

Ron

HA thats true Ron. Courtney is really a cool person. You can tell she really loves cars. She grew up on the race track so she has the race car bug. Once you get bitten there is no cure.

kabacj

12-14-2015, 06:01 AM

The record warm temps were a great reason to get out and take a spin in the GTM.

It's time to start constructing a new splitter.
As you can see the old splitter is a bit under sized now that I have widened the front of the nose to cover the 295 tires. The splitter is just held in place with clamps.

It's too bad because the current splitter is a nice high quality light weight part.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/1FF304EA-A8DB-4911-B0C6-05AFBE819150_zpss8sa5iu6.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/1FF304EA-A8DB-4911-B0C6-05AFBE819150_zpss8sa5iu6.jpg.html)

We were talking about the little winglets I added to the front lower edge of the wheel arch and the possibility of them interfering with tire removal.

Turns out the tires clear with the hood up or down.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/4F22D88A-91A2-43C8-A5D5-F84D664636BA_zpssyd3nfis.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/4F22D88A-91A2-43C8-A5D5-F84D664636BA_zpssyd3nfis.jpg.html)

Roger Reid

12-14-2015, 09:10 AM

kabacj

12-14-2015, 10:47 AM

Nice fender work. You might consider an aluminum splitter. Shane widened the front of my car for 315's then made a wider splitter and wrapped it in carbon fiber print vynl material. Looks great. Your wheels look great. Are you worried about the wide front tires not getting enough heat for track days?
Hi Roger.

Yeah actually aluminum would be the easiest way to solve for the splitter if I was only driving on the street or occasional track days., but since I have ripped off and destroyed 2 splitters so far, I need to make the splitter that is both strong and a sacrificial part.

I reused the composite splitters until I either lost or ground off big enough chunks to make repair and reuse too difficult.

I was thinking using a combination of balsa and carbon fiber if I go with a moldless solution or maybe carbon fiber and foam if I make a mold. Then an aluminum sheet under tray as that part hopefully will not take as much abuse.

I really like the idea of aluminum , but a composite part that harmlessly rips off and lets me keep going is better than something that will bend and stay attached I think.

Regarding the wider front tires.

I found that I needed to adjust my driving style trail brake later and carry more speed into the mid corner section of the turn and scrub speed with the tires as the tire size got bigger in order to get heat into them.

That’s exactly what you were not doing with the 245s or smaller width tires. Like all production cars the GTM was setup to drive safely on the street as the front will push before the rear lets go. Its much easier to control a car that’s pushing understeer then a car that suddenly breaks rear traction.

To make the bigger front tires work I needed to add front spring to support the added loads and tune the roll bars so the car was neutral mid corner. The next goal is adding more aero grip up front this way I can tune the car for the fast sweepers where I can pickup time and just deal with a little more push in the slower corners.

Tire choice also determines how big you can go up front and still get heat into them.
Hoosier A7s heat up in 1 lap. If I did not flat spot one tire a weekend they would be my go to front tire. Even the hoosier S80s heat up pretty quickly and are much more durable. I like to use them with the s100s or the R7 rears.

I guess I could get a $10,000 dollar racing ABS setup, but eh I think ill just burn up tires for now.

mlkwd1

12-15-2015, 08:55 PM

John, the warm weather has been great. Too bad Millville did not have any late dates because it was colder in Vegas at SEMA. I used the splitter Shane sells and asked him to make it from 1/8 vs 1/16. It is pretty robust. Had it powder coated charcoal black. I did not use CF for the same reason of destroying them. I actually hit my CF side rocker on a speed bump this weekend and dinged it up a little despite the HDPE strips under the car that I thought would provide clearance. I was concerned about the aluminum splitter dragging over the rumble strips or the driveway entrance so I put thin HDPE strips under and they are loosely riveted on. They will sheer off if they are hit hard. I may have a copy of the splitter curvature if you want a starting point to get the front arc right and then blend in the sides. Let me know if you want a copy, I try to find it and drop it in the mail to you.
Michael

kabacj

12-16-2015, 06:23 AM

John, the warm weather has been great. Too bad Millville did not have any late dates because it was colder in Vegas at SEMA.

Hi Michael

Yep I also was looking to get out on the track, but it seems that everyone has shut down for the holidays.

Your setup looks great. The rub strips will help you out on the few spots on the track where it's possible to make the splitter touch.

Like you i was concerned about curbs and rumble strips but to date I have never hit them when I was on the right line. If you drop a wheel off the track. That's where the problems start. Many times the rut on the outside of the track is deep enough to lower the splitter or side skirts on to the pavement. Most of my damage has happened this way.

If you go up to limerock park in CT it's possible to grind the outside corner of the splitter on the ground in the last turn called the downhill. The turn loads up the front suspension far more than a flat turn. It's a fun turn, however the first time the splitter hit and made a loud scraping noise it sure got my attention!

This is the best picture I could find. I guess there are few pictures of this spot from this angle because the camera person is sitting directly where cars hit the wall.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/93802397-75BE-404B-AAFE-48E087411C9C_zpspdzy2iq7.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/93802397-75BE-404B-AAFE-48E087411C9C_zpspdzy2iq7.jpg.html)

mlkwd1

12-16-2015, 08:36 PM

Thanks for the compliment. I intended not to use the rumble strips on Thunderbolt. My driving skills proved that not practical and by the second lap I ended up on the top in turn 6 or 7 by accident. When it did not hit the splitter and I used them to straighten out the turns leading into the straightaway with no issues. Looking at the turn above, I will definitely have a front tire rub with the 275s. The Toyos stick out a little past the when and there is no clearance. I plan to tuck the wheel in a little but it is down the list a ways.

If you need any HDPE, I have a local industrial supplier that had a huge selection of scrap pieces for a very reasonable price. I am there frequently and would be happy to ship it to you.

kabacj

01-19-2016, 06:04 AM

With all of the mild weather in December and early January I have been driving the GTM instead of working on it.

I took it to the my sons Cub Scout pack night where they had a car show as a lead up to the Pinewood derby. I let all of the kids sit in the GTM. That was a big hit. The looks on their faces sitting in the car were priceless.

In between driving. I did make one change to the windshield wiper setup that I think others could benefit from.

When i fit the hood I moved the back edge of the hood right up to the windshield glass.
I figure this is a bit better for aero and I also like the way it looks.

I knew this would make the windshield wiper and arm a tight fit, but I came up with a solution.

First upgrade the wiper to a nice low profile Bosch design.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/8D7E70D9-45FD-4A2C-8CE0-8DDEC8F01CC9_zpszeum3u1i.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/8D7E70D9-45FD-4A2C-8CE0-8DDEC8F01CC9_zpszeum3u1i.jpg.html)

Here is the wiper model in case you want to use it.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/16A4A3E6-F3AA-451C-A8AE-6F3262536FEF_zpsjzkzdbfo.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/16A4A3E6-F3AA-451C-A8AE-6F3262536FEF_zpsjzkzdbfo.jpg.html)

After a little bending of the wiper arm I was able to get a very nice fit.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/947BD4CE-2888-45CD-8290-CE1FCF4699E1_zpsyhrsutdt.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/947BD4CE-2888-45CD-8290-CE1FCF4699E1_zpsyhrsutdt.jpg.html)

Aceflo

01-19-2016, 10:55 PM

John ...you rock.

Thanks for all the tips you provide.

Rick

mlkwd1

01-22-2016, 08:18 PM

John, good idea for the Pinewood Derby, I am sure the kids went crazy. It is great to be the dad with the coolest car. I am the cub scout pack leader for my son and he constantly asks to take the GTM to our meetings. He asked to pain it using the orange like my GTM. He loves when I pick him up from after school activities and all the kids (and dads) crowd around the car. We were going to have the PWD on Sunday but the coming snow forced us to postpone the date. I actually flew home from working in Tampa this morning to be here for the PWD otherwise there was no good reason to leave 75 degree weather.

Millville just posted their schedule for 2016. Got to get my dates picked in the next couple of weeks. Also want to try Lime Rock and Watkins Glenn this summer.

Wiper fits nice. After seeing the hood setback while at SEMA, I was not sure you would have the clearance.

kabacj

01-23-2016, 06:56 AM

Thanks for all the tips you provide.

Rick

My pleasure Rick. The fun part of this build is all the little custom bits that you can add to make the car yours. I was lucky enough to have these wipers on my truck so I just swapped one in. It fit. A quick amazon prime order and I had one for my GTM.

John, good idea for the Pinewood Derby, I am sure the kids went crazy.

Hey Michael! Yeah both the kids and parents were excited. Lots of parents got pictures of their kids in the car. Another dad has an euduro car and a 68 firebird that he owned since high school. We both spent time indoctrinating the kids in the car hobby. Besides Scouts building good citizens, I want to make sure we turn out as many gear heads as we can!!!

Millville just posted their schedule for 2016. Got to get my dates picked in the next couple of weeks. Also want to try Lime Rock and Watkins Glenn this summer.

Yes I plan to visit NJMP in March and April and July . We will see when lime rock have un muffled days as its difficult when you cant race on Sunday. Watkins Glenn will be great this year with the fresh pavement. I also plan to be there at least 6 days.

I am looking forward to chipping up my fresh paint and making a mess of the white car. I am sure we will meet up at the track.

John

The Stig

01-23-2016, 09:33 PM

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/4F22D88A-91A2-43C8-A5D5-F84D664636BA_zpssyd3nfis.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/4F22D88A-91A2-43C8-A5D5-F84D664636BA_zpssyd3nfis.jpg.html)

These are some serious brake calipers and rotors that you've got there!

Love the HRE wheels also!

Mike

Kempo

01-25-2016, 06:53 AM

He John!!!!!! haven't posted in some time but have been following a few threads. As you may know this is one of the. The work you have don in this car is just INSANE!!!!! The amount of attention to detail is amazing. You have built a top notch race car. Love the body mods, choice of colors and those wheels are AWESOME!!!!!! Keep up the good work!!!

kabacj

01-25-2016, 08:00 AM

These are some serious brake calipers and rotors that you've got there!

Love the HRE wheels also!

Mike

Thanks Mike. The 14 inch stop tech rotors are great for track work. As a bonus they look serious too :). Yeah the HREs were made to their race spec with knurled beads to keep the tire from slipping on the rim. Since they are milled from billet they are super strong but also very lightweight.

Oh and btw all the work you have done on your car will be worth it as soon as you take it for that first drive.

He John!!!!!! haven't posted in some time but have been following a few threads. As you may know this is one of the. The work you have don in this car is just INSANE!!!!! The amount of attention to detail is amazing. You have built a top notch race car. Love the body mods, choice of colors and those wheels are AWESOME!!!!!! Keep up the good work!!!

Thanks Hugo. I'm far from done , but at least I'm at a point that I could claim I'm done.

Your car was my inspiration to go with white.

Now that we have 24 inches of snow on the ground I think it's safe to say I can get back to work on the GTM as I will not be driving it any time soon.

kabacj

03-14-2016, 09:05 AM

Finally a warm day when I had time to sort out a new front splitter for the GTM

After widening the front fenders to cover my race tires and pulling the hood back toward the windshield the beautiful factory five carbon splitter no longer fit.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/38C7B70D-31B2-4593-8E83-85E817F681AD_zpsda7tzriy.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/38C7B70D-31B2-4593-8E83-85E817F681AD_zpsda7tzriy.jpg.html)

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/1FF304EA-A8DB-4911-B0C6-05AFBE819150_zpss8sa5iu6.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/1FF304EA-A8DB-4911-B0C6-05AFBE819150_zpss8sa5iu6.jpg.html)

Time to make a new one. The goal is to maintain the tilt hood but also close out and much of the under tray as possible.

Ideally create a Venturi under the front axle line to increase front down force.

Step one was to cut out a template from plywood

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/71838A67-3103-4A3C-A659-D3EEAB77C6FD_zps5jaxj1az.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/71838A67-3103-4A3C-A659-D3EEAB77C6FD_zps5jaxj1az.jpg.html)

Next I cut the shape and trimmed so I could maintain the hood tilt

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/22C3F5B1-FE47-43DF-9BFE-06F334A7F11E_zpsv4bpvtel.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/22C3F5B1-FE47-43DF-9BFE-06F334A7F11E_zpsv4bpvtel.jpg.html)

Finally I formed the center section.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/9DC61BE8-D57B-4F48-B077-AD56DCB4816A_zps541hia6q.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/9DC61BE8-D57B-4F48-B077-AD56DCB4816A_zps541hia6q.jpg.html)

At this point I started to run out of daylight.
I'm not sure if I will go with the ply core laminated carbon fiber or make a female mold off of this part when it's done.

At least I'll be able to test airflow over this part before I commit to a mold.

John

carbon fiber

03-14-2016, 09:47 AM

Go ahead and make a mold. You'll be glad you did.

Fraser D

03-14-2016, 02:16 PM

Go ahead and make a mold. You'll be glad you did.

Yes I agree. That way you can just go ahead and knock a couple out whenever you need them.
If you make a mold it will be easier to get a little creative as well. e.g vertical planes on the outer edges of the splitter

kabacj

03-15-2016, 04:59 AM

Go ahead and make a mold. You'll be glad you did.

Yes I think this is the way to go. I don't have any experience creating a mold where I laminate a foam or wood core, but I'm sure there is some information available.

Yes I agree. That way you can just go ahead and knock a couple out whenever you need them.
If you make a mold it will be easier to get a little creative as well. e.g vertical planes on the outer edges of the splitter

Agree I'm looking to try these two types of ends on the splitter. These two splitters also demonstrate the two types of construction. One is a plank and the other looks to me like a core material covered by laminate. I like the core laminate solution. I just need to figure out how to do it.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/693194AC-3531-4163-9670-A76D3AE87727_zpsxa3dbw8n.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/693194AC-3531-4163-9670-A76D3AE87727_zpsxa3dbw8n.jpg.html)

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7BFCEFF0-1754-4E3C-A75A-5E8A293F613A_zpsfghextbi.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/7BFCEFF0-1754-4E3C-A75A-5E8A293F613A_zpsfghextbi.jpg.html)

These cars also show two types of dive planes I want to try. Note that I don't think the rules for the weather tech series allow the prototype class to extend aero elements past the plane of the wheels. It's clearly better to have the dive planes and vortex generators hanging out in the air next to the car. Super unlimited does not have any such rule so mine will be in the airflow next to the car.

mlkwd1

03-15-2016, 07:14 PM

The Stig

03-16-2016, 03:44 PM

kabacj

03-16-2016, 04:34 PM

John, Splitter pattern looks great.

We had plenty of good weather this winter. I found myself using the car instead of working on it as well. Put some effort into it this past week and got the longer wheel studs installed and installed the 14 inch front brakes. Back brake kit comes in tomorrow. The only ting I am still missing is the shocks and sway bar which have been ordered since December. You going to NJMP mid-April? I am planning to sign up this weekend for Saturday and Sunday. Hope to see you there. Michael

Hi Michael

I'm not sure how my April track events are going to sort out. Ideally I'm going to make the NASA race April 15,16,17. Just depends on some other commitments I have.

You will be happy with the upgrades you have there. I'm looking forward to getting out there with you. Not too may on track photos with two GTMs. I can't wait. I'll let you know

kabacj

03-16-2016, 05:14 PM

Hi John, I have a question that I'm curious about.

Are you using stock wheel hub/bearing assemblies, and if so how do they seem to be holding up? I would imagine that Mike (Crash) Holland could add to this as well. If you upgraded, to a more stout hub for track use, would you mind sharing what you went with?

Hi Mike I'm glad to share. I upgraded to SKF hubs, poly bushings and upgraded ball joints as well as toe links and a bump steer kit front and rear. SKF hubs are standard on the C5 zo6 and are commonly used by anyone tracking their c5 or c6 corvette or GTM on the track frequently. They are known to stand up to a whole season of racing.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/D43F6EDC-6388-42A9-8135-E7D0D0618AAC_zpsn2ldao0u.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/D43F6EDC-6388-42A9-8135-E7D0D0618AAC_zpsn2ldao0u.jpg.html)

The reason I ask, is that my hubs are from a donor which had 99k+ miles on it. It's bothered me for a while, to the point that I've wanted to overhaul the entire suspension. (Arms, Spindles, ball joints, hubs, etc.) I have the new arms, and I'm trying to decide whether to go with stock hubs and ball joints or upgrade to Pfadt Engineering hubs. I have their poly bushings that I plan to use as well. I have an adjustable upper control arm set up for the front, which should help me dial in the alignment much tighter. So I think I'll be able to feel good about the safety aspect, when I take my wife for a ride. (And yes, I'm pretty sure that will happen...)

I don't mean to hijack your thread, but you are doing a lot of real world testing on the track; most of which directly applies to what the rest of us should be watching out for.

Thanks,

Mike

No hijack Mike. The point of the thread is not for track only or racing only. The goal is to tell everyone how I got the most from my GTM. Regarding your 99k mile suspension. Yes I agree a refresh is a good idea. The bushings are old and worn I'm sure. I don't think it's a safety issue, but the extreme capability of the GTM will highlight any worn parts. After all the work you have in your car the work you have done to upgrade your suspension is worth it. We all want the GTM to drive as well as it looks. A fresh suspension and a good alignment are key to that goal. In my opinion anyone who reports handling issues at triple digit speeds needs to focus on the old corvette parts they put in their pride and joy and the alignment they gave the car.

I don't mean to sound harsh, I just wish suspensions would get a little more love. They are not as cool as nice paint or 1,000 hp but they are a key part of any super car. You are doing the right thing.

BTW. My wife will not ride in the GTM. She says it's pretty but too scary. This is from someone who has only driven fast manual sports cars her whole life HA! My kids on the other hand LOVE it !

Hopefully that's helpful. Thanks for asking. It's a very important question.

John

The Stig

03-16-2016, 06:24 PM

Thanks John.

The Pfadt hubs that I mentioned are the SKF hubs for 97-08 Vettes. I don't really intend to track my car, but I figured if they could handle a year of track abuse, they can certainly handle anything that I would put them through, and still hold up.

I am also doing the upper and lower joints, but I haven't decided which one's I'll use. I think the solid joints from Pfadt may be overkill for my purposes. I would image that they transfer a lot of road noise as well. What are your thoughts on that?

The toe links are on my list as well. Again, not sure if I should replace with the GM part or look for something a little more robust.

I agree with your view of the importance of the suspension. It doesn't make sense to build a fast quick car that doesn't handle or stop as well as it goes...

It also makes little sense to spend a large amount to get the suspension dialed in if it's going to move on you in a turn or during acceleration and braking.

Thanks for the info.

Mike

mlkwd1

03-16-2016, 08:52 PM

BTW. My wife will not ride in the GTM. She says it's pretty but too scary. This is from someone who has only driven fast manual sports cars her whole life HA! My kids on the other hand LOVE it !

Hopefully that's helpful. Thanks for asking. It's a very important question.

John[/QUOTE]

John, too funny, my wife got only one ride and has not asked again. The kids on the other hand always ask what car I am picking them up in. I drop my youngest off at a boy scout dinner on Saturday and he was immediately surrounded by Older scouts asking if he was rich and telling him he had the coolest car. When it came time to pick him up and I showed up in my truck it was a huge disappointment while all the kids waited to see the car again.

kabacj

03-16-2016, 08:58 PM

Thanks John.

The Pfadt hubs that I mentioned are the SKF hubs for 97-08 Vettes. I don't really intend to track my car, but I figured if they could handle a year of track abuse, they can certainly handle anything that I would put them through, and still hold up.

Yep I agree. You could go either way with the hubs. The SKF hubs that Pfadt sell would last longer under any conditions, but I dont think you would notice that they are "better" I look at this type of purchase this way. I never say oh I wish I got the cheaper ones this is too high quality for me. But that's me. You cant go wrong as long as you have new hubs.

I am also doing the upper and lower joints, but I haven't decided which one's I'll use. I think the solid joints from Pfadt may be overkill for my purposes. I would image that they transfer a lot of road noise as well. What are your thoughts on that?

I think you are talking about the Spherical bearings kits for the upper and lower control arms. I agree. Don't get those. They do transfer road noise and are harsh. They need periodic rebuild. The poly setup is fine even for racing. The poly setup is will last the life of the GTM. Its a good setup. I have considered the spherical setup for racing, but still have not pulled the trigger. That tells you something about how good the poly setup is.

The toe links are on my list as well. Again, not sure if I should replace with the GM part or look for something a little more robust.

For street driving with an occasional track day I think you are fine with the stock GM parts. You do need to make sure they are in good shape. If they don't look new I would change them out. They are not expensive. Slop in those joints is bad news. Unless you plan on spending lots of time over 120mph you will not need the bump steer kit for the rear alignment so new stock parts will work fine.

I agree with your view of the importance of the suspension. It doesn't make sense to build a fast quick car that doesn't handle or stop as well as it goes...

it it also make little sense to spend a large amount to get the suspension dialed in if it's going to move on you in a turn or during acceleration and braking.

Thanks for the info.

Mike

Yep exactly right. Even with street tires and everything stock (but in good condition) from the Corvette the GTM has insane capability. Restoring the C5 suspension components to as new condition, or upgrading where needed for your application, is always the right thing to do.

I'm looking forward to seeing your car in person. I'm sure its going to be stunning.

John

kabacj

03-16-2016, 09:06 PM

John, too funny, my wife got only one ride and has not asked again. The kids on the other hand always ask what car I am picking them up in. I drop my youngest off at a boy scout dinner on Saturday and he was immediately surrounded by Older scouts asking if he was rich and telling him he had the coolest car. When it came time to pick him up and I showed up in my truck it was a huge disappointment while all the kids waited to see the car again.

HAHA yep. The GTM is really a special car. I always remind the kids that they could build a car like this too. Its never too early to start dreaming.

crash

03-18-2016, 11:15 AM

Stig- The hubs you would want are SKF 5049's. There are other hubs that come on ZR1 Vettes, that according to SKF, are designed internally the same as the 5049, but they have a different number of drive splines and a different wheel speed sensor, so I would not recommend those.

That said, you really don't need to spend the $$ on the 5049s until there is an issue. There is no catastrophic failure, or anything like that if the regular hubs go bad. At least we have never seen that. For many years we would simply run the stock hubs until they started noticeably "howling" and then we would replace them. That was about 20 hours of serious racing. We never had one fail terminally, just start making a bunch of noise. It was loud enough that it was easily recognizable on video from inside the car.

On the flip side, since going to the 5049 hubs, we have never worn a set of those out. We started out rotating those out for the 25 hour race, but after extensive racing on those hubs, have found that the 5049 is darn near indestructable. The issue is with the cage material that holds the balls, which I am told is plastic in the regular hubs and metal in the 5049s.

We are now running the solid spherical bearings in the rear of the car and have had very good results. If you have read some of my other posts, we were having some tire wear problems and I changed a number of things in the rear of the car to address this, one of them being the poly bushings, and the wear issues have gone away. For our purposes the solid mounting just doesn't hurt, and the poly may have been an issue. Really no need to make this change on a street GTM.

BTW, here is a picture of the hubs I built for the 2015 25 hour race...51672

longislandwrx

04-13-2016, 11:14 AM

did you finish the splitter?

kabacj

04-13-2016, 03:13 PM

did you finish the splitter?

Hey man.

Sadly I did not. Family vacation and weekends away from the garage eliminated my GTM time.

The good news is this weekend promises great weather and I'll be home.

I plan to develop the shape as I go and the ability to take the GTM out for some "wind tunnel" testing is key to making progress.

I'll report back on how things go.

John

longislandwrx

04-14-2016, 10:46 AM

let me know if you need a copilot for additional data analysis

kabacj

04-15-2016, 02:46 PM

let me know if you need a copilot for additional data analysis

Haha. Yeah thanks for the offer to help. Data collection can often be much easier when one person drives and the other manages the data collection equipment.

John

flickery8

04-18-2016, 06:50 PM

kabacj

04-20-2016, 05:03 AM

John,
I have a hard time thinking of your car in white, you will have to update your profile pic. I also want to see how you get the rubber off the side of the car. I spend several days fixing stuff before each track weekend, run hard all weekend, get back at midnight sunday night and don't touch the car for a couple weeks. I feel guilty, but I don't think my car has been truly clean for over a year.
One question, what is your ride height and where do you measure? Have you changed this and if so what were the effects?
Thanks,
Gary

Hey Gary

Yep I do need to update my profile pic. I'm waiting for some good track pics.

Regarding keeping a brilliant white car clean. Ha yeah that's going to me much harder than hot rod satin black. I'm comfortable painting the car now, so I can just repaint it if necessary.

On the ride height question.

I run 3.75 front static ride height under the front axle line and 4.5 under the rear axle line.

Since the GTM has a flat underbody it's possible to use the underside of the car to create downforce. The rake of the car also slightly transfers more weight to the front of the car.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/958e86a7-6b53-4089-bd31-3f4ed7819f0c_zpsbojwsgfb.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/958e86a7-6b53-4089-bd31-3f4ed7819f0c_zpsbojwsgfb.jpg.html)

More downforce that is biased to the front of the car and more weight on the front tires are both good things on the track. For street use neither of these things matter. Depending on how you use the car, it might be more important to make sure that the car can clear obstacles and not high center on humps.

I drive the same ride height on the street, but I am very limited by steep driveway entrances and can't drive over speed bumps at all. It does not bother me. My GTM is not a daily driver where that would matter.

John

flickery8

05-01-2016, 11:05 PM

Thanks! My car used to be flat on the bottom but that came undone for a bit, I will post under my thread.
Thanks for the info!
Gary

vnmsss

05-01-2016, 11:53 PM

Glad you're still at it, John!! :)

K

kabacj

05-02-2016, 04:43 AM

Glad you're still at it, John!! :)

K

Hey Karen!

Yep. Still having fun too.

See ya soon. November is right around the corner.

Cattrax

05-18-2016, 12:05 PM

John,
Are you entering the UTCC this weekend? I would love to see how a well prepared GTM stacks up.
Ken

kabacj

05-18-2016, 05:09 PM

John,
Are you entering the UTCC this weekend? I would love to see how a well prepared GTM stacks up.
Ken

Hi Ken

Yeah the plan was to run in the UTCC this year, but my life does not always go to plan.

I was accepted into the challenge by Grass Roots Motorsports and had planned my trip down but I now have some obligations that trump my hobby.

I will run the GTM in the UTCC, but sadly not this year. I want to see how it will run as well!

I am frankly more worried how my driving will stand up to the field of top class drivers! The GTM is well up to the task.

John

longislandwrx

10-12-2016, 06:07 AM

John, how are things going?

kabacj

10-13-2016, 05:40 AM

John, how are things going?

Hey man.

Sadly not a lot to report on the GTM front. My racing plans have been derailed for every event for one reason or another.

Work, family and the backlog of projects that have built up over the GTM build have kept me super busy.

On the positive side one of my side projects was to build an aluminum railing for my dad that will stand up to salt water. Annodizing is the only way to coat the aluminum so it will last. Commercial anodizers were both expensive and inflexible. It's not worth my time to do all of the CAD work to provide them with drawings and spec sheets.

FINE! I need to learn how to anodize.

Immediately I run into an issue. Try to find a tank that is 5 feet long, and will stand up to both strong acid and 220 degrees. Oh and each gallon of chemical costs you money so a giant vat is not going to work either.

Ok I know how to make tanks from the GTM project.

I made 4 tanks from 316 stainless steel.
http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/A01FCBC9-5814-478F-B8FC-3C531169571B_zpsphgwq1rz.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/A01FCBC9-5814-478F-B8FC-3C531169571B_zpsphgwq1rz.jpg.html)

Ok now I need to circulate the acid and cool it as I run high amperage current through it.

No problem. I found a pump that can circulate acid without self destructing and built a cooling loop out of PVC and old garden hose.

Then I tested the system and made it leak proof with water.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w389/kabacj/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/9F85AEA2-90DE-4599-A6C1-F450FAE48E6B_zpsasjdimsc.jpg (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/kabacj/media/Factory%20Five%20GTM%20roll%20cage%20modifications/9F85AEA2-90DE-4599-A6C1-F450FAE48E6B_zpsasjdimsc.jpg.html)

Works great.

After I anodize 45 posts every aluminum part on the GTM can get a custom annodized finish!

crash

10-13-2016, 09:12 AM

kabacj

10-13-2016, 06:22 PM

John, as you may have noticed, I have always recommended anodizing for all aluminum panels on the GTM. That said, while it is cool that you have learned how to do a new process, there is no way that what you have done is economical. There are a number of anodizers here in San Diego, and I know I am spoiled for having the capabilities of the ship yards available to me, but there has to be a cheaper and easier way than what you have there. What are you going to do with the chemicals when you are done? All the hardware will be contaminated as well, what are your plans for that?

Hey Crash.

Yep agree with you on the outright cost for a batch of 45 5 foot parts. Sure I could get them done a little cheaper than the supplies I purchased however I value getting things done the way I want when I want.

That type of service is very expensive.

And I like to know that if I want to do a very small job I can get it done in the time it takes me to setup my anodizing line. Commercial guys don't care about that type of work. It's just not worth it. I don't blame them.

Regarding the chemicals. We are talking about dyes and strong acids. None of the ingredients are toxic so I was just going to pour them down the sewer drain. That's what I do with all my waste oil.

Ha just kidding. The acids are neutralized with baking Soda and any disolved aluminum in the acid is inert and will precipitate out when the PH goes down.

Don't worry. Even though I'm a big fan of burning fossil fuels I'm also a boyscout. Our motto is leave no trace. ;) I recycle everything and waste a little as possible. I don't believe in global warming, but there is no question that humans have the power to ruin our environment. Have we gone off topic?

Rest assured I'm not going to be the guy polluting. I'm probably more concerned about that then the average guy looking to make money running a business.

On that note! Looking forward to some custom colored annodized aluminum on the GTM. That will make it faster as you know.

John

John