VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
05-09-2012, 05:54 PM
Well, I've never been a big fan of the FFR solution for the e-brake cables. Probably my #1 gripe is that the drivers side cable to the hub is too short and the cable ends up stretched to the max to reach between the hub and splitter box. I've ordered longer cables before, but they are made as heavier cables than the stock ones, so they are stiffer/tighter and the springs end up being just barely strong enough to release the tension when you let off the e-brake......and they're fairly costly, and you have to box up your old cables, send them in, wait for the new ones to return, etc. The other problem is that there is no good way of attaching the splitter box to anything under there, so most of the installs that I've seen come thru the shop here (installs that others have done) just leaves the splitter box flopping around next to the oil pan. I've just never been quite happy with the whole situation.
Anyway, I decided to put the plasma cutter to use and come up with something like this (this is a video....click it to watch):
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j88/vacextar/th_photobucket-28646-1336601031101.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j88/vacextar/?action=view¤t=photobucket-28646-1336601031101.mp4)
Consists of a rear bracket, a front bracket (both of which use the oil pan bolts to secure the brackets to the engine), and 2 lengthening links, which essentially "lengthens" both rear cables by ~4.5" so they reach the hub like they should. Keeps everything away from the headers, away from other moving parts and mounts things up solid to avoid having parts rattling around back there.
A few questions that I have are:
1. Will this clear the bat-wing oil pan? I'm thinking the brackets hang down too low and will not clear the "wing" of the pan, but not sure. This is where the guinea pig comes in. Anyone want to try this with your bat-wing pan to see if it fits? If so, I could probably cut you a deal on the parts for helping me out.
2. Will this fit "other" engines/oil pans in the LS family? LS7? LS2, LS3? I'm fairly certain that you can exchange oil pans across the LS family of engines with maybe the exception of the LS7, but just wondering if anyone can tell me by the video if these brackets should be good-to-go for all non-bat-wing oil pans?
The materials are pretty minimal for these, but they require a bit of labor in bending and welding. I'm thinking the price for the 4 pieces would be somewhere in the range of $49. They would all be formed to shape and welded, but would not be painted.
Give me some feedback and let me know what you all think. Thanks!
Anyway, I decided to put the plasma cutter to use and come up with something like this (this is a video....click it to watch):
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j88/vacextar/th_photobucket-28646-1336601031101.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j88/vacextar/?action=view¤t=photobucket-28646-1336601031101.mp4)
Consists of a rear bracket, a front bracket (both of which use the oil pan bolts to secure the brackets to the engine), and 2 lengthening links, which essentially "lengthens" both rear cables by ~4.5" so they reach the hub like they should. Keeps everything away from the headers, away from other moving parts and mounts things up solid to avoid having parts rattling around back there.
A few questions that I have are:
1. Will this clear the bat-wing oil pan? I'm thinking the brackets hang down too low and will not clear the "wing" of the pan, but not sure. This is where the guinea pig comes in. Anyone want to try this with your bat-wing pan to see if it fits? If so, I could probably cut you a deal on the parts for helping me out.
2. Will this fit "other" engines/oil pans in the LS family? LS7? LS2, LS3? I'm fairly certain that you can exchange oil pans across the LS family of engines with maybe the exception of the LS7, but just wondering if anyone can tell me by the video if these brackets should be good-to-go for all non-bat-wing oil pans?
The materials are pretty minimal for these, but they require a bit of labor in bending and welding. I'm thinking the price for the 4 pieces would be somewhere in the range of $49. They would all be formed to shape and welded, but would not be painted.
Give me some feedback and let me know what you all think. Thanks!