View Full Version : Steering installation issues
azbruin
04-06-2012, 12:10 PM
I've got the rack in and the the column hooked up but have a couple of issues. The column is rubbing on the 88 donor footbox Brake stop? (it's the piece with a hole and grommet that doesn't seem to do anything). The other issue is at the rack. I've added the inner tie rod extensions and now the manual wants me to cut off an inch and a half off the tierods. Why? My outer tierods have long barrels that allow the threaded end to go all the way in but that is with the jam nuts still on. The manual implies that I have to thread one side further in which would require elimination of the jam nuts and then there could be clearance issues in the barrel of the outer tie rod. Thoughts anyone?
Gale K
04-06-2012, 01:01 PM
Can you post pics?
GT-Tom
04-06-2012, 01:48 PM
Here is an excellent explanation of how to measure the rack and tie rod lengths. Check under Steering Rack.
http://mk4build.com/manual/doku.php?id=rack
rich grsc
04-06-2012, 05:37 PM
I've got the rack in and the the column hooked up but have a couple of issues. The column is rubbing on the 88 donor footbox Brake stop? (it's the piece with a hole and grommet that doesn't seem to do anything). The other issue is at the rack. I've added the inner tie rod extensions and now the manual wants me to cut off an inch and a half off the tierods. Why? My outer tierods have long barrels that allow the threaded end to go all the way in but that is with the jam nuts still on. The manual implies that I have to thread one side further in which would require elimination of the jam nuts and then there could be clearance issues in the barrel of the outer tie rod. Thoughts anyone?
Remove that piece it was for cruise control cancel. If you have the manuel steering rack from FFR, the inner extensions shouldnt be needed. A lot of the manuel still relates do donor parts, such as the used power steering rack. Just measure and you will know if it needs cutting or not.
azbruin
04-06-2012, 05:50 PM
I am using the depowered donor rack for now.
jakester888
04-10-2012, 01:29 AM
Azbruin. I had the same issue this last weekend. You have to take the pedal box out and take your dremmel to it and cut a nice little arc for the column to pass-thru. Here is a pic:
8772
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8772&d=1334092563
GT-Tom
04-10-2012, 10:04 AM
I am using the depowered donor rack for now.
I installed my powered rack this weekend and installed the rack extenders. I did some research and some recommend not cutting the rack until the motor is in and setting down on the suspension. I am going to wait on cutting mine.
Tom
edwardb
04-10-2012, 12:09 PM
I am using the depowered donor rack for now.
Probably you don't want to hear this -- maybe you already have -- the depowered donor rack is universally agreed to be one of the worst options possible for steering on these builds. The purpose made manual rack from Unisteer supplied by FFR, or similar units from Flaming River or your local parts store, are not expensive and a big upgrade if you're going to do manual steering. Now is the time to do it right while you're still building, before paying for an alignment, etc.
SStrong
04-10-2012, 12:39 PM
Put the spindles on and check to see approximately how much you need to cut off. I wound up cutting 5/8" off mine. Easier to cut more off than to have to get new inner tie rods.
rich grsc
04-10-2012, 01:36 PM
Probably you don't want to hear this -- maybe you already have -- the depowered donor rack is universally agreed to be one of the worst options possible for steering on these builds. The purpose made manual rack from Unisteer supplied by FFR, or similar units from Flaming River or your local parts store, are not expensive and a big upgrade if you're going to do manual steering. Now is the time to do it right while you're still building, before paying for an alignment, etc.
2x on not using the depowered rack. It would be much better to just go ahead and hook up the power steering pump and be finished.
azbruin
04-10-2012, 05:32 PM
Yes I've heard all the negative comments about the depowered racks. Probably should have listened. I've got some time to make a decision and I am definitely not cutting the tie rods until the tires are on and I can see how everything sets up. With the frame on blocks and the rack centered I still can't see how I can thread the tierods on far enough and retain the jam nuts. Seems like I will have significant toeout.
azbruin
04-10-2012, 05:33 PM
Great pictures. I couldn't get my camera to focus clearly enough. That was exactly my issue.
jakester888
04-10-2012, 07:06 PM
You might also notice in the pic how I had to take out a chunk of cross frame for the brake pedal to set correctly. I left the brake pedal in the default pivot position (since I'm planning to boost brakes). The implications are that the cross bar was in the way, so I dremmel'd it.
CraigS
04-11-2012, 05:10 PM
Another option is to go ahead and power that rack. I don't like that quick a ratio (had it in my MkI) but I wouldn't go w/o power steering. The donor pump and lines all work w/ a little tweeking of the lines.