My Remote Battery Pole Isolators

[David Hodgkins]

As I continue to get my final touches done for my roadster, I decided to do something about a decision I made earlier in my build.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7083&d=1325185228

As you can tell from this pic, I have a trunk-mounted battery and remote battery poles inside my trunk. As you can also see, I modified my trunk by adding a box under the lower shelf. The problem is that there isn't much space between the walls of the trunk and trunk box. The rear of the poles are exposed metal, and if I was rear-ended or spun and backed into a wall, it wouldn't take much to force the two walls together and short the battery. I was flagged for this at Willow Springs in October and I had to disconnect the positive pole in order to run. The tech would have let me run if I had put something over the poles to isolate them but it is up above the gas tank and hard to get to.

I had to find a way to isolate the poles. So the first thing I did was remove the tank. In the following pic you can see just how little space there is in between the two walls in the trunk:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8448&d=1332220137

Here is a closeup of the positive pole.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8449&d=1332220138

How to add something around it to isolate the power?

This is my solution. I bought a couple of crutch (1-1/4") feet and 5/8" Cane feet:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8445&d=1332220134

The 5/8" foot slips over the nut nicely and the bigger foot is wide enough to go around the base. But how to I get both of those items over the pole and still fit in the little space between the boxes?

First I cut a hole in the top of the crutch foot:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8446&d=1332220135

No need for a drill, a sharp exacto does the trick. Then I fit the 5/8" foot inside the new hole. Then I cut the Crutch foot down and added a cutout for the power cable:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8450&d=1332220139

As you can see the rubber is quite thick. I then shoved the two pieces into the small space and put them together (they won't go in put together) and then I rotated the assembly into place. It's a tight fit but it takes up the entire space between the two walls.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8453&d=1332220143

Now I know if I take a real good hit all bets are off, but if I suffer a moderate hit and the frame distorts there's a agood chance the rubber isolating the poles will keep the poles from shorting.

The tech at Willow Springs said I could run if I covered the area with duct or electrical tap but I think this is a much more stout solution.

What do you think?

[kabacj]

Looks like a great solution to me David. There is some irony in the use of cane and crutch parts for this fix. Ha!

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like the covers are wedged in but not secured in any other way. Probably fine, but things that are not firmly attached have a way of working off if there is any way.

From your description seems like there is not enough room for the bits to work off unless they are compressed?

Maybe a gob of orange RTV between the battery lugs and the white bit and then again between the white and black bit?

The RTV is my fastener of choice in these situations. It's chemical proof, sticks to everything and is still removable. I rate RTV third in the must have fix anything tool kit behind duct tape and safety wire closely followed by zip ties. .

John

[David Hodgkins]

John, I was going to go with a few dabs of silicone but RTV might be a better solution. Yeah, they are wedged in there pretty good but I was going to dab something on there anyway...

:)

[riptide motorsport]

Wile E Coyote...SUPER GENIUS!!!!!!!!!!

[skullandbones]

I think that will help to reduce the chances for corrosion, too. That's a real nice solution. WEK.

[Marty Prario]

Check these out David,

http://www.electricalhub.com/battery-terminals-and-lugs/insulator-battery-boots

[DVANSLEEN]

I had the same problem when I did Cobra Earls trunk mod.I moved them to the left verticle panel behind the rear tire. Works great and they are easy to get to from inside of the trunk.

[2FastCobra]

Looks like it should work.

[Cobradavid]

Looks like a good solution, especially if you "glue" them on with RTV.

When you get it all back together, will you have some sort of cable restraint to keep the positive cable away from the trunk box corner? It looks really close in the close-up photo of the positive terminal. That aluminum edge might chafe on the cable.

David

[David Hodgkins]

David, I noticed that and zip-tied it away from the corner. Good catch, and thanks for the heads-up.

:)

[frankeeski]

Good solution buddy. I noticed that the terminal end is a bit exposed. You could always add a bit of electrical shrink tubing over the exposed part not covered by your new "bumpers".