Upper Ball Joint Safety question

[GT-Tom]

For us new builders here is a question that came up as I started my build. My ball joints were loose enough when intalling into the UCA that I could hand tighten them without using my bench vise. I did use the vise to hand torque it as much as I could. I used blue Lock Tight as recommended in the build manual but was concerned the ball joint could still back out. I checked the build site http://mk4build.com/manual/doku.php?id=start and they recommended some JB Weld. I do not have a welder so tried the JB Weld. Do you think it is good enough? I did a search on the other forum for threads on the subject and saw that one recommendation is drilling the arm and using a roll pin. I like that idea but of course have the UCA installed now. So here is the question; will the JB Weld be sufficient or is this a good time to take them back off and do something like the roll pin idea. AND...if I remove the UCA (which have been torqued should I use new bolts? :confused:83608361

[riptide motorsport]

If the body is off, go the roll pin route to feel comfortable, if the body's on drive it over to a weld shop and pay the minimum( or a 6 pack) and have them throw a tack weld on it..Steven

[frankeeski]

I like the roll pin idea, I hadn't seen that before. I welded mine, a simple tack weld is a really easy fix. There has to be someone with a 110 volt mig welder around you that would do it for you. JB weld is not for anything structural, in my opinion anyways. Do it right and you won't have to worry about it.

[2FastCobra]

I tack welded mine also. Would not want that to come apart.

[mikiec]

Mine were installed 11 years ago. Holding fine. No tacking or roll pin.

[sheephearder]

Weld it or have it welded for your safety and for anyone else with you or on the road, please.

[GT-Tom]

Well, I tried drilling the ball joints for a roll pin with the UCA on the car. Didn't work out. I was able to drill through the UCA metal pretty easily but could not drill into the hardened ball joint. I used titanium drill bits from Aircraft Spruce and cutting oil but the bits would not drill into the ball joint. I needed up breaking a couple of bits before giving up. I removed the UCAs and took them to a muffler shop to get them tacked welded. I showed the manager pictures from the forum of how I wanted to tack just one spot so I could remove them later if I had to replace a ball joint. I was waiting about 20 minutes and thought it was thing a long time for just 2 quick tacks but figured they were just taking their time and being careful to get it right. WELL.....when the manager brought them out he was all proud of what a good job they did. Their welder welded all four sides! Charged me $40 too! Well considering how much time they spent.........probably worth their time.

I told him I wanted to just make sure the ball joint didn't loosen not friggin move ever! Oh well pretty darn sure they won't move now

Lesson: Make sure to talk to the welder directly for what you want or better yet ask to watch the process...(not looking direct at the arc of course).

[frankeeski]

Tom, Sorry you had trouble trying to drill for the roll pins, I thought it seemed like a great way to do it. Anyways, just a tip for future builders trying to drill hardend steel or stainless steel. I buddy of mine (stainless steel fabricator) taught me a trick quite a few years ago that works perfectly. Rather than using cutting fluid which allows the drill bit to skate on top of the surface rather than cutting, it is actually better to drill hard material dry. The next thing is to vary the speed of the drill motor, a simple on and off on the trigger will allow the bit to clear the shavings and continue to cut into the material. You will find that even a HSS bit will cut through a much harder material when you use the method I have shared with you. The last tip is to get yourself a Drill Doctor, that way each time you get done with a bit you can touch it up and it will be as good as new each time you use it.

At least with the way your welder did the arms you won't ever have to worry about them backing out. If you ever have one fail you may have a struggle trying to remove them but cross that bridge when and if you have to.

[CHOTIS BILL]

Has anyone ever have a ball joint come loose just using loctite?
Sometimes better is the enemy of good.

Bill Lomenick

[Mike N]

I have never had my uppers loosen but one of the lowers did and I think it was due to the powder coat on the FFR lower control arm. Use a utility knife or a file to take the powder coat off on the end of the threaded round boss where the ball joint seats before tightening them. Since I took the powder coat off they have been fine.

[GT-Tom]

There are some links on the other forum where the upper ball joints has backed almost completely out after some miles. Mine were so easy to install I could tighten them by hand all the way until they bottomed out. I then put them in my bench vise to hand torque them the best I could. I used locktight but wanted more security as I plan on some track days.

[GT-Tom]

Has anyone ever have a ball joint come loose just using loctite?
Sometimes better is the enemy of good.

Bill Lomenick

Just saw this today on the other forum.
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/286804-one-wheel-started-rubbing-what-earth.html

[CHOTIS BILL]

Well I guess that answers that question and adds something else to the to-do list.

Thanks,
Bill Lomenick

[rich grsc]

Well I guess that answers that question and adds something else to the to-do list.

Thanks,
Bill Lomenick
Not really, loctite wasnt used. If you use red, you wont have a problem.