Painting Forged Aluminum Suspension Components

[NJMike]

The forged aluminum suspension components look great now while they are new, but I'm wondering how they will look after some time on the road. I would like to know your opinions about painting vs leaving natural.

Thank you

[GoDadGo]

You may want to seek out a shop that anodizes parts.
We've got a shop in my home town that does all sorts of stuff.

https://www.anodeinc.com/index.html

[edwardb]

Have them on my 30th Anniversary Roadster. Awesome parts. I didn't do anything to mine. They have a bit of a smooth finish. So I'm expecting they will clean up OK. When needed. Since they're aluminum, not going to rust or corrode. If I were to do anything, I would spray them with Duplicolor Engine Clear Ceramic rattle can paint. I use that on steel parts and it holds up surprisingly well. I've painted aluminum parts with that clear before too. Like the IRS center section, knuckles, etc, Just chose not to mess with the forged control arms. I've seen a couple builders paint them. That's an option too. Powder coat or anodize is another option I guess. But you would have to remove parts including the ball joints in the front lowers.

[NJMike]

Thanks for your thoughts. I do like the look of them, the Duplicolor Engine Clear Ceramic might be a good choice for protecting the finish.

[narly1]

Sharkhide or Nyalic works on cast aluminum as well.

Earl

[Dgc333]

I use Krylon Dull Aluminum paint on weathered aluminum parts. It looks very close to what a cast aluminum part does new.

[CraigS]

IDK but I doubt that Chevy coats the al control arms and spindles on my 19 Stingray. And they still look pretty much the same as new.

[Ejzajac]

I carefully looked into the coating options on these good looking aluminum suspension parts. Painting can be tricky with required impeccable surface prep and etching primers before a dedicated aluminum paint. I've done it with other aluminum marine products with great results using a "Total Boat" aluminum paint. These paints are very thin, requiring multiple coats. The final result can be quite good even when brushing rather than spraying. Ultimately, I smoothed out the casting seams, polished and removed oxidation with brushing and aluminum cleaner. Multiple coats of Shark Hide for the final finish. This should help out with routine cleaning/detailing. If even necessary, a F/Up coating could probably done in place on the car. Time will tell!

Ed Z

[rich grsc]

What makes you think paint is going to look better after a few years than the aluminum?

[Mike.Bray]

You may want to seek out a shop that anodizes parts.
We've got a shop in my home town that does all sorts of stuff.

https://www.anodeinc.com/index.html

I love anodizing, did my aluminum panels. You just have to be careful as not all alloys anodize well and cast aluminum pretty much not at all. I know these parts are forged but you really need to know the alloy.

[CraigS]

I like the idea of a clear but somehow I'd have to be very convinced that it wouldn't yellow in 4-5 years. It would be really sad to have to remove a yellowed clear.

[NJMike]

I ended up spraying with the Krylon Clear Gloss. Hopefully it holds up well, makes the parts easier to keep clean, and doesn't yellow.

Thanks again.

[edwardb]

I ended up spraying with the Krylon Clear Gloss. Hopefully it holds up well, makes the parts easier to keep clean, and doesn't yellow.

Thanks again.

I've used in on multiple builds including my Coupe 8 years ago. No sign of yellowing.