Sanity check - steering shaft asssembly

[Stangrob]

Hi guys,

Before I do something I might regret, I figured I'd double-check with you first ;)

So, I'm building a Mk4 with power steering - just in case that makes a difference. The upper double-D tube and mating steering shaft are a REALLY tight fit. I took the edge off of the opening of the tube, but I can barely get the upper shaft to fit - maybe 1/4" at best. Now, in the manual it says to tap the solid shaft into the tube, but I suspect once I do that it'll never come apart again. Did you guys have to apply that much force to get those two pieces together? And I do know that I'll have to add the two spring washers as I push the shaft into the tube, which will just make things tighter.

I think I know the answer to my second question but again can't hurt to ask. The bottom solid double-D shaft that goes to the rack is long - probably 1/4 to 3/8" of an inch. It intrudes into the joint a bit, and I was planning to trim that shaft to 18" to get extra clearance. Did you guys end up trimming yours for your build?

Thanks!

Rob

[PNWTim]

I took some emery cloth and knocked the edges off the solid shaft and it slid right in after that. You're right, you pound it in you won't get it out. Mine was really tight too so just work on it a bit and it'll slide in there.

I can't help with the cut down question as I am building a coupe.

[Jim1855]

The D shaft with my chassis (2016 vintage) slides nicely. Some use Belleville washers for tension; I may need to.

I'd look for edges sharper than needed as potential interference areas. Polishing the shaft might help, maybe there's a burr somewhere.

Sorry, I can't help with the length.

Jim

[Stangrob]

Thanks guys - I figured it shouldn't be THAT tight. I'll work on the upper shaft - time to break out the emery cloth and work it over a bit.

Rob

[edwardb]

Yeah, do not pound it in. Keep working it until it's snug but still slides. Multiple instances on here of builders taking a hammer to these and locking them up. The assembly on my current Mk5 took a while to get right. But it's OK now.

[i.e.427]

We always knock off the sharp edges on the inner steering shaft with the grinder. This video will show what happens when that isn't done and when the shaft isn't lubricated when installed.

Go to the 14 minute mark of the video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60sBRbOBK6o&list=PLDlFwXKm54ofcpUeZgtaxFAvdVOsue5Cd&index=19&t=530s

[M22_COBRA]

If you pound them together they may stay that way until you put heat to the outer D tube and pull them apart before the inner tube swells from heat also.
Follow Frank above, lots of good pieces of advice in those videos.

[Stangrob]

We always knock off the sharp edges on the inner steering shaft with the grinder. This video will show what happens when that isn't done and when the shaft isn't lubricated when installed.

Go to the 14 minute mark of the video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60sBRbOBK6o&list=PLDlFwXKm54ofcpUeZgtaxFAvdVOsue5Cd&index=19&t=530s

Thanks Frank for the great insights - I definitely don't want to repeat the sins of the original builder!

Rob

[Pete&Scott]

Building an MK5 with power steering. I thought I might need to trim the lower shaft, but then I realized the universal joint had a long side and a short side. When I turned those around, the shafts fit fine. Might want to check that. I also ground down the upper shaft so that it fits easily into the D tube.

[Stangrob]

Guys,

Well, some time with a fiber abrasive wheel on a die grinder did the job - the inner shaft sides nicely into the double-D tube. As Frank mentioned, I rounded all of the corners then worked around the circumference of the shaft until it fit without fighting. When I install everything tomorrow I'll be sure to lube everything up so it doesn't seize up down the road.

Thanks again!

Rob