Rivits or screws in areas where panels may need to be removed for maintenance

[Cobra roadster]

Hi all. Car will arrive in about 3 weeks. I am looking at lots of videos. I know the aluminum panels are riveted to the frame. Has anyone used screws in areas that panels may need to be removed for future maintenance. I appreciate any advice anyone can give.
Thanks.
Paul.

[Waterman]

I used Rivnuts in several places for easy servicing and they already came in handy when I went from Carb to EFI. Over the brake box, in the trunk to cover openings, for my lower dash panel and for the trans tunnel. I also made the dash removable without removing body. Make sure you drill correct size hole and crimp down tight or rivnut may spin on screw removal.

[Cobra roadster]

Thank you. I forgot about the rivnuts. Great idea.
Thanks.
Paul.

[TrackDay17]

Thank you. I forgot about the rivnuts. Great idea.
Thanks.
Paul.

I'm going to use rivet nuts on my foot box tops and the fuel tank access panels in the trunk.
I haven't decided my exact plan of action to attach the trans tunnel top but probably do the same with nicely finished Allen heads.
I'm unsure if I'm going to upholster the trans tunnel or wrap it in a carbon fiber wrap to match my dash.
I'm leaning towards the wrap.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you opt for rivnuts I have some cautions based on my experiences with customer cars which have had them used for things like splash panels, nose aluminum, etc.

1. Make sure that you are getting the insert fully expanded and tight in the aluminum panels. Failing to do so can result in the insert spinning when the bolt is turned

2. Don't use anything smaller than #10 machine screws. Failing to do so can result in the small hex socket getting rounded when attempting to turn the bolt

3. Always use anti-seize on the fastener. Failing to do so can result in the bolt galling and locking up in the insert

I've had cars come in where one or more of these recommendations have not been followed and when I attempt to disassemble the car for paint I end up having to cut the fastener &/or insert off. Rivets are quick and easy to drill out ;)

Jeff

[Jim Doak]

I used speednuts with stainless screws for my footbox access panel as well as the fuel gauge sender, fuel pump and trunk lid covers.

They're easy to install and work well.

[narly1]

I watch a lot of aircraft videos and drilling out rivets seems to be standard practice. I know our vehicles are a different application but I submit that as long as I have good drill access I'm inclined to just use rivets.

Earl

[edwardb]

I watch a lot of aircraft videos and drilling out rivets seems to be standard practice. I know our vehicles are a different application but I submit that as long as I have good drill access I'm inclined to just use rivets.

Earl

Agreed. They're easy to drill out. Some caution though. I don't like to drill out rivets where I can't recover the piece that falls out the back. No issue with panel-to-panel or into frame members with open ends. Obviously not so easy when there's no access. Probalby not a big deal in moderation. But just something I try to avoid. I can tell you first hand that for airplanes you never drill out a rivet where you can't recover the loose end. i would also caution about trying to drill out and remove a panel where silicone or whatever you use has been applied. That stuff sticks and the .040 aluminum is easy to damage/deform. If something really is a maintenance panel, like the footbox tops, don't use adhesive even if you rivet it.

Agree with Jeff's comments about installing nutserts. They're a little bit of an art and take some practice. Too loose and they can spin. Pull too hard and you can deform or strip. (Just happen to know that...). My minimum size is 10. With a few 1/4 and 5/16. Also, get decent nutserts. I get them from McMaster. I'm sure there are other good sources. I had one of those boxes of 100 (or whatever) multiple sizes in a nice plastic box that was dirt cheap from Amazon. I found almost impossible to pull them without stripping. Recycled. Something also from the airplane world. Often recommended to smear a little JB Weld or red Loctite around the body of the insert before pulling. Adds a little insurance for them not to spin (at the worst time of course). Some use instant glue but I haven't found that as effective.

[Cobra roadster]

Lots of great ideas here. Not sure which way I will go yet but at least ideas are flowing.
Thanks.
Pau
l.

[narly1]

i would also caution about trying to drill out and remove a panel where silicone or whatever you use has been applied. That stuff sticks and the .040 aluminum is easy to damage/deform. If something really is a maintenance panel, like the footbox tops, don't use adhesive even if you rivet it.

Slightly off topic, but on the subject of this predicament I have used strong cord or fine stranded wire to "saw" through the silicone bead. Of course you need appropriate access to do this...

Earl

[Cobraman]

I used Rivnuts in those places I would Need access too, but as said buy others in this post make sure they are crimped tight and a little antiseize, stainless doesn't play well with other metals.


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[Rebostar]

I used 10x32 rivnuts on the tunnel cover, rear console switch panel, splash panels, and fuel pump & sender panels. I used aircraft nutplates sourced from Aircraft Spruce for the upper footbox access panel and tinnerman nuts on the deck lid center cover. I did not use any rivnuts on the aluminum panels as on the MK4 everything is pretty accessable except the D.S. Footbox. If I had it to do over again I'd use the aircraft nutplates for everything instead of rivnuts. Their a pain in the a## to install but they will never spin out.

Happy Trails

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[CW_MI]

Did a combination of rivnuts and threading into the frame for the access panel over the drivers footbox. I will also add a small seal.

[Cobra roadster]

Quick question. If bolt/screw goes thru aluminum into frame could the frame be tapped and a bolt be put in the instead of the rivnut or rivet.
Thanks.
Paul.

[CW_MI]

Quick question. If bolt/screw goes thru aluminum into frame could the frame be tapped and a bolt be put in the instead of the rivnut or rivet.
Thanks.
Paul.

That is exactly what i did, if you look at my pictures, the only place there are rivnuts are where there is no frame to tap into.

[Cobra roadster]

I think I will get the rivnuts with the 10-32 size like everyone said and then tap frame where I can
.
Thanks Guys.
Paul.

[CraigS]

The speednuts that Jim mentioned are a great solution in many cases. Easy, cheap, 100% reliable. They are all over the plastic under engine panels on many daily drivers. If you go for rivets be sure they are aluminum w/ aluminum mandrels. If you happen to use steel mandrels they are very difficult to drill out.

[Cobra roadster]

Thanks everyone for all the advice.
Paul

[defilade]

My car has all hex screws for panels where access is needed (footbox, hatch area, etc.). I regularly need to get into those areas so having screws makes life a lot easier. I keep a hex key set in the car so if have an issue on the road it's easy to remove whatever panel I need access to. Ideally you want to be able to access things with hand tools you can carry with you, so IMO rivets are not ideal for that scenario.

[mikey likes it!]

I used zeus fasteners. Fifteen years later, they still work excellent,
Being a jet mechanic in the military for six years, proved their worth to me.

[Cobra roadster]

Thanks Guys. I like the idea od the Dsuz fasteners. I have never used them they sound like the would be a great solution.
Appreciate the tips.
Thanks.
Paul.

[edwardb]

Thanks Guys. I like the idea od the Dsuz fasteners. I have never used them they sound like the would be a great solution.
Appreciate the tips.
Thanks.
Paul.

Learned about and installed Dzus fasteners during my airplane build. Bunch of them on the cowl. They're cool and all. But aren't cheap, come in multiple sizes depending on depth, take special tools, and at least in my experience as a newbie, pretty fiddly. Also keep in mind Dzus fasteners are on aircraft because they're frequently used and need to be quick and easy. Some panels are opened and closed during every pre-flight. I've seen videos where they're also used on race cars, again for the same reasons. Frequent and easy. I'm sure other applications as well.

I've done all my builds with nutserts in panel-to-panel and threads tapped in the frame if possible. From what I've observed, the most common. I use 10-32. That size provides a bit more threads when tapping the frame. Then flange head Allen screws. Easy, cheap, does the job. The footbox panels on my Coupe haven't been touched since it was done five seasons ago. That could change any time, of course... Easy to overthink this topic IMO.

[Myron Nelson]

For the top cover of the brake M/C/s and fuse panel on the drivers side, I used double sided gorilla tape plus one of the original factory self tapping screws for security. For the trunk covers for the fuel pump and fuel sender I am also going to use the gorilla tape because they will be covered in glued carpet anyway.
BTW, for carpet glue I much prefer the Gorilla brand of spray adhesive over the 3M. It's cheaper and easier to work with and has an adjustable nozzle that works great.

[Rebostar]

Aicraft Spruce for reasonable pricing on Cam Locs, Dsuz fastners and retainers and dont forget the AD426-3-3 countersunk rivits to install the recepticles. I used them for my battery cover attacment.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/camloc2600.php


Happy Trails

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[GoDadGo]

I used Rivet nuts (10X24) for all sorts of things.

Dashboard
Stereo/Switch Pod
Speakers
Dog House Footbox Hatch
Slave Cylinder Access Hatch
Fuel Pickup Hatch
Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Hatch
Heater Core Mount
Transmission Tunnel Top
Front Radiator Grill

One 1/4" T-Handle Allen Wrench Removes Them All!