Starting body prep

[Cobraman]

I finally was able to get the body out of storage and get started on prep. I choose not to have the cut outs done Rumor has it that a blind man could do it better. I think a blind man did do this. So here I go it's no different than my wood working abilities so I fill it's just a walk in the park. After looking over the body closely I found some discrepancies in the roll bar markings they diffently don't look right to me. Don't want to drill hole 3/4" off. Anyone have any problems with this or measurement to verify? I'm only doing drivers side but it still should be correct :confused:.

Drivers side passenger side

225560225561

[Jeff Kleiner]

They’re close, maybe about 1/4”-3/8” too far forward BUT I suggest that you just wait until you have the body properly located on the chassis before you start cutting.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Any advice you get from Sir Jeffski is Factory Five Gold.
You've got to get the body properly located before you do anything.
Shown below are links to my body work videos:

https://youtu.be/_3sLamdkIFg

https://youtu.be/meBYeI96_A8

https://youtu.be/6QXWP5H8mT0

https://youtu.be/6UK6K2jcwTU

https://youtu.be/po1Bb2_XDDk

https://youtu.be/FVMCA4_UZHU

https://youtu.be/V38Jajo_qOQ

https://youtu.be/ELFJDOVKb4g

https://youtu.be/A0Jb1tjjtPU

https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

[Rebostar]

When I did my body I trimmed all four wheel wells, the dash and rear cabin lips, and cleaned all the seams down to primer before I mounted it on the chassis. Once mounted correctly with the rear door opening 1/4" in front of the door latch plate I locked it in place with the "Kleiner Mod". Then set the front mounts in place to located the body lateraly. Only then did I work on the windshield mounting and Breeze Roll Bar instalation. After that I trimed and fit the hood and deck lid, saving the doors for last. With that done I removed the body and painted the underside with Raptor Bed Liner tinted grey. I did all the filler, primer and wet sanding to 400 wet with the body off so I would not get 20 lbs of sanding dust all over my freshly built car. Then I delivered the body, doors, deck lid, and hood to a friend to paint in his body shop. I wish I could say I figured all this out myself but it was here on the forum that I learned the "easier softer way"!

On the roll bars I made a set of sleeves that fit over the roll bar mounts. with the body still on and properly located I set one sleeve on the mount and slid the second sleeve up to the body (mimicking the vertical roll bars).
Happy Trails!

22557622557722557822557922558022558122558222558322 5584225584

[Rebostar]

When I did my body I trimmed all four wheel wells, the dash and rear cabin lips, and cleaned all the seams down to primer before I mounted it on the chassis. Once mounted correctly with the rear door opening 1/4" in front of the door latch plate I locked it in place with the "Kleiner Mod". Then set the front mounts in place to located the body lateraly. Only then did I work on the windshield mounting and Breeze Roll Bar instalation. After that I trimed and fit the hood and deck lid, saving the doors for last. With that done I removed the body and painted the underside with Raptor Bed Liner tinted grey. I did all the filler, primer and wet sanding to 400 wet with the body off so I would not get 20 lbs of sanding dust all over my freshly built car. Then I delivered the body, doors, deck lid, and hood to a friend to paint in his body shop. I wish I could say I figured all this out myself but it was here on the forum that I learned the "easier softer way"!

On the roll bars I made a set of sleeves that fit over the roll bar mounts. with the body still on and properly located I set one sleeve on the mount and slid the second sleeve up to the body (mimicking the vertical roll bars).
Happy Trails!

22557622557722557822557922558022558122558222558322 5584225584

Here are the sleeves I made for locating the roll bar holes from the bottom side.

225586

[Cobraman]

When I did my body I trimmed all four wheel wells, the dash and rear cabin lips, and cleaned all the seams down to primer before I mounted it on the chassis. Once mounted correctly with the rear door opening 1/4" in front of the door latch plate I locked it in place with the "Kleiner Mod". Then set the front mounts in place to located the body lateraly. Only then did I work on the windshield mounting and Breeze Roll Bar instalation. After that I trimed and fit the hood and deck lid, saving the doors for last. With that done I removed the body and painted the underside with Raptor Bed Liner tinted grey. I did all the filler, primer and wet sanding to 400 wet with the body off so I would not get 20 lbs of sanding dust all over my freshly built car. Then I delivered the body, doors, deck lid, and hood to a friend to paint in his body shop. I wish I could say I figured all this out myself but it was here on the forum that I learned the "easier softer way"!

On the roll bars I made a set of sleeves that fit over the roll bar mounts. with the body still on and properly located I set one sleeve on the mount and slid the second sleeve up to the body (mimicking the vertical roll bars).
Happy Trails!

22557622557722557822557922558022558122558222558322 5584225584

Your outline is exactly the way I'm going to approach this phase. I do like the pipe idea don't know why I didn't think of it. I'm going to drive it in gelcoat until November or so and then paint. Buy the way I love that color brandywine and there are many versions of it. I've Narrowed it down to two of those brandywine versions #1 https://www.66autocolor.com/products/house-of-kolor-k161-juliet. #2 https://www.66autocolor.com/products/house-of-kolor-k136-midnight #1 uses white pearl
#2 uses blue pearl

[Cobraman]

They’re close, maybe about 1/4”-3/8” too far forward BUT I suggest that you just wait until you have the body properly located on the chassis before you start cutting.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff I really want to get as much of the dirty work done before I put the body on it such as headlight,vents sidepipe cutouts then smooth out the seems so all that dust etc stays off chassis as much as possible. I definitely agree with you now about waiting on the rest of the cuts until the body is on.
I may be calling on your expertise more as I get closer to getting everything fitting perfectly. I have be following all your advice and so far and it's been spot on. Thanks Jeff for all advice and expertise.

Kie

[Cobraman]

Any advice you get from Sir Jeffski is Factory Five Gold.
You've got to get the body properly located before you do anything.
Shown below are links to my body work videos:

https://youtu.be/_3sLamdkIFg

https://youtu.be/meBYeI96_A8

https://youtu.be/6QXWP5H8mT0

https://youtu.be/6UK6K2jcwTU

https://youtu.be/po1Bb2_XDDk

https://youtu.be/FVMCA4_UZHU

https://youtu.be/V38Jajo_qOQ

https://youtu.be/ELFJDOVKb4g

https://youtu.be/A0Jb1tjjtPU

https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

Oh I have watched all of your videos trying to get as much information as possible. Along with Jeff's knowledge I'll keep asking questions, so stay tuned.

[TTimmy]

I found the following thread to be super helpful. There is a lot of great stuff contained within it. I attribute much of my success to the advice it contains.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?44680-Carl-s-and-Phil-s-Mk4-Body-Work-and-Paint

[GoDadGo]

Oh I have watched all of your videos trying to get as much information as possible. Along with Jeff's knowledge I'll keep asking questions, so stay tuned.

My car would have turned out like Total Crap had I not taken the advice from three individuals which are listed below:

1. Jeff Kleiner
2. Henry R. (65 Cobra Dude)
3. Edwardb (Paul B.)

For all of you building your cars, please, please, please take any advice these three fellows give you.

Now take a ride with me and Mrs. GoDad to stay motivated:

https://youtu.be/GpqvBPwIbzI

[rich grsc]

And yet you put a cheby in it. :rolleyes::p

[Cobraman]

And yet you put a cheby in it. :rolleyes::p

Cobra, Cheetah maybe he's a bit confused. Although they diffently don't look the same :cool:

[Cobraman]

Ok on to some more questions, how much to trim wheel wells and the easiest way. I'm thinking I will use my small variable speed grinder with a flap wheel on it to get it close then finish up by hand sanding. See picture. Any examples or other advice is greatly appreciated.

225657

[GoDadGo]

Some say that I did it for Authur, but............

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arthur_Chevrolet

https://youtu.be/hSxyeS55lfc

Ironically, I drove past the cemetery where he is buried yesterday.

[GoDadGo]

225657


I made the front fender lip match the back, but it's all a personal preference.

[Cobraman]

I did it for Authur.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arthur_Chevrolet

https://youtu.be/hSxyeS55lfc

In fact, I drove past the cemetery where he is buried yesterday.

That is diffently cool Steve most of my friends are Chevy guys but they still come and help me on occasion. But they still give me a bad time about the SBF. I guess it's all in fun.

[GoDadGo]

That is diffently cool Steve most of my friends are Chevy guys but they still come and help me on occasion. But they still give me a bad time about the SBF. I guess it's all in fun.

Cobraman,

Just remember that you are building your car your way.
Your car is an expression of you and your dream.
We've even seen a couple of electric versions.

Steve

NOTE: The link below is a great way to make the base/supplied louvers look really nice.

https://youtu.be/QyMN73IW6I8

[Cobraman]

Thank Steve I've seen that video and yes it makes them look very nice. Believe me I have looked and researched about every video there is on finishing aspects and there are many great ideas.

Thanks again Steve for your support maybe someday I'll be the POM.

KIE

[Jeff Kleiner]

Ok on to some more questions, how much to trim wheel wells and the easiest way. I'm thinking I will use my small variable speed grinder with a flap wheel on it to get it close then finish up by hand sanding. See picture. Any examples or other advice is greatly appreciated.

225657

I do the initial takedown using an angle grinder with a 36/40 grit flap disc then follow that up with 80 grit on a DA and complete the radius by hand sanding with 80 and 150. I actually take both the front and rear down a little farther than where your black line is which allows you to create a continuous radius from outside to in, more like the original aluminum bodied cars which wrapped it around a 3/16" rod.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220467&d=1760991628

On the front I cut off the wonky lower edge that jogs in and out where it runs from the front of the wheel opening over to the oil cooler scoop. I then straighten out the line and blend it in to the curve of the wheelwell.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220468&d=1760992067

At the rear of the front wheel opening I follow the molded curve that rolls under then finish shape it like so.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220469&d=1760992103

Oh,, by the way...take those "horseshoe" front body mounts off and pitch them in the nearest trash can then go to Metro Molded Parts and buy a set of these:

https://metroparts.com/front_bumper_arm_grommets_shelby_cobra_and_kit_car s_ex_17b/

And some 0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless Round Tube, 304 Seamless - Part #: 12927 from Online Metals:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/

Hope that helps!

Jeff

[Cobraman]

Thanks Jeff that's kind of what I was thinking but you're experience just confirmed what I'm about to do. Oh and yes I was planning on tossing those horse shoes putting them in my collection of scrap. Thanks for the link wasn't sure wear to find those.