Hot Rod Truck - Electric Power Steering

[JMD]

Hi all,

I popped over here from the roadster threads as I'm interested in a hot rod truck for my next build. I'm pretty much done with my roadster apart from paint and final details, but was curious about the electric power steering on these. How does it feel and is it really necessary for these vehicles? I'm a big fan of power steering (have it on my roadster) but on these light vehicles I wonder if it's really needed. I had to put the biggest pulley and smallest diameter fitting on the power steering in my roadster to keep it from feeling over boosted...and it's still more assist than it really needs.

I've see pictures where the electric motor can interfere with exhaust and thought it might be better not to have it. I do kind of like the minimalist approach to things anyway. (I don't have power brakes on my roadster and love the way it feels.) Just wanted to hear thoughts from those who have driven these things.

Thanks!

[Dgc333]

I have a 33 Speedstar, the chassis from the firewall forward is identical to the 35 pickup as is the suspension.

I go-karted mine without power steering and it was a handful at slow speeds, enough so that it would have ruined the enjoyment of the car for me. I added power steering and it transformed the car. Easy steering at slow speeds and not intrusive at hiway speeds.

You can build the truck without it and if you feel you need it it is easy to add latter. The frame comes with the mounting bracket whether you order it or not. I purchased my unit from Demon Power Sports and sourced the 9/16-36 spline to double D universals from Amazon.

I built my Speedstar with a Gen 3 Hemi and there is no interference issues. I can see where a front sump oil pan may interfere but a mid or rear sump won't be an issue. I have heard folks have had issues with unit interfering with a small block Ford oil filter and that has been solved by clocking the unit differently or using a shorter oil filter or a remote filter. I have BBK shorty headers and they are no where near the power steering unit.

[JMD]

Great feedback, thanks for that.

I had an old '69 Camaro without power steering many years ago and it was difficult at low speeds, but also a lot heavier than a FFR build. I would want to put some pretty wide tires on a truck, which wouldn't help ease of steering.

Maybe the clearance issue I saw earlier was to an oil pan, not the headers. I'm thinking I would want either a 383 or 347 in it. I love how compact and easy to work on the 302 block is, but definitely want north of 400hp and maybe a bigger block engine would fill out the engine bay better as I'm not planning to run a hood or side covers.

[edwardb]

Standard speech about power steering with these builds. It's not just about effort. It's probably even more about how you can add more caster and it dramatically changes how well it drives. Stays centered better, less twitchy, etc. Don't miss the chance to have the best driving experience. I didn't have PS on my first build (a Mk3 Roadster) but the person I sold it to added it. All builds since then have had PS. Over boosting can be resolved several different ways depending on the setup.

So the specific question -- I had the optional Factory Five electric PS on my 35 truck build. It's a relatively straightforward installation since the brackets are already on the chassis and the proper steering column pieces are provided. I didn't have any interference with the exhaust and not sure how that would be the case. I did have an interference problem with the oil pan on the LS3 I installed. Resolved with an aftermarket Holley low profile pan. I could have reoriented the pump as several on here suggested. But that did put it relatively close to the headers and I wasn't comfortable with that. As far as how it felt and drove, it was fine. No complaints. Some electric systems have a knob where you can adjust the amount of boost. The one Factory Five supplies does not. The only negative I would say about mine was when the truck was at a dead stop there wasn't a lot of boost. Almost like it was more than the system could provide to turn the wheels. I had 245/45ZR18 tires on all four corners. Not huge but maybe a little meatier on the front than some? I talked to Factory Five technical and they said my system was operating OK. With just a slight amount of movement it was fine. Otherwise all good and I'd recommend.

[narly1]

224779

Photo showing clearance between shorty oil filter fitted to a 302 and the EPAS motor as installed in my Speedstar chassis.

Lots of room.

Earl

[Punuffney]

I'm running a LS6 engine in my truck and I had clearance issues between the electric motor and the oil pan. I'm even running a Holley LS swap pan and it still made contact. The mounting holes are universal on the bracket, so you can run the motor in the vertical position to deal with clearance. I called FF tech who confirmed that this configuration should work. It allowed pan clearance and doesn't interfere with the LS headers. I'll try to grab some pictures for you.

Regarding power steering in general, I was very skeptical of the electric power steering. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to install and the driving experience. I have rather large tires on the front and it makes maneuvering the truck at low speeds very easy. I would definitely do it again given the choice.

[Chris H.]

I have a 33 Speedstar, the chassis from the firewall forward is identical to the 35 pickup as is the suspension.

I go-karted mine without power steering and it was a handful at slow speeds, enough so that it would have ruined the enjoyment of the car for me. I added power steering and it transformed the car. Easy steering at slow speeds and not intrusive at hiway speeds.

You can build the truck without it and if you feel you need it it is easy to add latter. The frame comes with the mounting bracket whether you order it or not. I purchased my unit from Demon Power Sports and sourced the 9/16-36 spline to double D universals from Amazon.

I built my Speedstar with a Gen 3 Hemi and there is no interference issues. I can see where a front sump oil pan may interfere but a mid or rear sump won't be an issue. I have heard folks have had issues with unit interfering with a small block Ford oil filter and that has been solved by clocking the unit differently or using a shorter oil filter or a remote filter. I have BBK shorty headers and they are no where near the power steering unit.

Which kit did you order from Demon? Or does it matter? Bolt right up?

[JMD]

Thanks for the input everyone. Lots of good info and it makes me feel better about moving forward with the electric PS.

Any additional pics appreciated.

My next consideration is what engine to use. I love the LS3 engine, but always prefer the old school looks of something more traditional without fuel rails. I love the easy fitment of a 302 block but want more than 400hp and a nice lopey idle. Considering a 347, 350 or 383. We will see...

I'll be sure to pour over your build thread, edwardb, and many others as I prep to move forward. I spent about 4 months reading build threads before I started my roadster and it gave me plenty of time to consider ideas and plan my build.

[Guardm16]

I have a Small Block Ford 427, 500+HP. The oil pan is a dual sump so no interference. I used the 90 degree adapter for the oil filter, easy fix.
As far as drivability. It is spot on perfect. I wanted my 120 lbs wife to drive it. So automatic trans, power steering and power brakes.

224789

224791 No problem at idle turning the wheels.

[Dgc333]

Which kit did you order from Demon? Or does it matter? Bolt right up?
There are two or three versions of the motor with different wattage ratings. The one FFR supplies is 220 watts so that is what I ordered. All the other variations they sell are the shafts and brackets supplied with the kit for specific side by sides. Since you won't be using any of the shafts and brackets you can order whatever one you want. Note: the diameter of the higher watt motors is larger than the 220 watt unit and could present some clearance issues.

[JMD]

I have a Small Block Ford 427, 500+HP. The oil pan is a dual sump so no interference. I used the 90 degree adapter for the oil filter, easy fix.
As far as drivability. It is spot on perfect. I wanted my 120 lbs wife to drive it. So automatic trans, power steering and power brakes.

224789

224791 No problem at idle turning the wheels.

Very nice. I love the hood with no sides combination along with that specific grille. I really like the hood but having less panels to fit and finish is very appealing from a build standpoint. How hard was it to fit the hood?

[Guardm16]

Very nice. I love the hood with no sides combination along with that specific grille. I really like the hood but having less panels to fit and finish is very appealing from a build standpoint. How hard was it to fit the hood?

Well that is a tough question. I made my hood by combining the 35 hood and part of the radiator/grill surround. I thought when I ordered the 33 grill and hood I would get the longer 33 hood, but I got the truck hood. So I cut and fiberglassed the parts together to make the 33 hood. Fitting was not too bad. Just work on your gaps. I used a gasket from the hood of a 2015 jeep, to seal the gap from the grill to the hood, worked great. I got that idea from my wife's jeep. The longest part of fitting the hood was sanding for paint. This is the first part people see and had to be straight and smooth. Several layers for filler and sanding to get it right.

[JMD]

That's great work. The hood looks factory and super clean...but definitely outside my skillset and not a project I would enjoy. Aesthetic fiberglass work drives me nuts. I may stay hoodless. I most enjoy the mechanical design and assembly part of the build and the driving part...anything more isn't something I want to spend a whole lot of time on. Plus I won't have to worry about air filter sizing! ;)

I'm enjoying your build posts, Guardm16. Thanks for walking us through your process. I'm sure it will be helpful once I get into the project some more.

[Guardm16]

This was my first dive into fiberglass. Not too much different from bondo. But products have come a long way since I did my mustang back in 98. Light weight fillers etc. are so much easier to work. No fear of a thin coating on everything to get the contours right. strange how things like the bed sides look straight, but are not if you put a straight edge on them. So there was a lot of skim coating and long block sanding to make things flat. All part of the process.

[Just 1 More]

I went with the Flaming River kit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr40200?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyvHLBhDlARIsAHxl6xquTj4KpDvOwjMP0ELr Xx_9tlxVPl_W6MWd1BheWgVTM90FyKen0R8aAqAPEALw_wcB

[JMD]

I went with the Flaming River kit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr40200?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyvHLBhDlARIsAHxl6xquTj4KpDvOwjMP0ELr Xx_9tlxVPl_W6MWd1BheWgVTM90FyKen0R8aAqAPEALw_wcB

Over $2k for electric power steering! Yowza!