289 street dash layout

[Stangrob]

Hi folks,

Due to a number of factors I'm not planning to go with the 289 FIA dash layout for my car, and instead I'm opting to go with the 289 street car dash. I've seen plenty of pictures of this configuration, but I was wondering if anyone has seen dimensions for this layout? I'd rather not guess if I don't have to, so if anyone has info they can share I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks!

Rob

[Grubester]

First build (Mk4 289-style) starting w/blank aluminum dash because I wanted a certain (~period-correct) look:
--some forum posters mention not mounting the top of the dash directly through the 3/4" square tube, but to create small brackets so the screws you use will be slightly below the 3/4" square tube so they can be accessed, if needed to remove the dash later without removing the body (it can obscure the screws if not using slightly lower mounting points);
--choose 3 or 4 or 5 mounting points. I went with 5, but the odd number means one is centered at the top of the dash, BUT will it line up with strips later after paint (next time I'll choose 4):
--I've drilled and mounted the seven gages, but I'm still making notes about which lights and switches to add...? Working on the "must-need" list still... looking for tips (many out there);
--Also, still trying to decide on glovebox or not. I'm using a forward fire wall (2") offset, so I'll have room for the heater and a modest-depth glovebox...
(I'm dodging your direct question about specific dimensions for gage location... yes, I figured it out but will need to look later for the dimensions I used.
224614

[tundra2050]

First build (Mk4 289-style) starting w/blank aluminum dash because I wanted a certain (~period-correct) look:
--some forum posters mention not mounting the top of the dash directly through the 3/4" square tube, but to create small brackets so the screws you use will be slightly below the 3/4" square tube so they can be accessed, if needed to remove the dash later without removing the body (it can obscure the screws if not using slightly lower mounting points);
--choose 3 or 4 or 5 mounting points. I went with 5, but the odd number means one is centered at the top of the dash, BUT will it line up with strips later after paint (next time I'll choose 4):
--I've drilled and mounted the seven gages, but I'm still making notes about which lights and switches to add...? Working on the "must-need" list still... looking for tips (many out there);
--Also, still trying to decide on glovebox or not. I'm using a forward fire wall (2") offset, so I'll have room for the heater and a modest-depth glovebox...
(I'm dodging your direct question about specific dimensions for gage location... yes, I figured it out but will need to look later for the dimensions I used.
224614

You don't happen to have a picture of those brackets for your dash attachment?

[Stangrob]

You don't happen to have a picture of those brackets for your dash attachment?

Adding the brackets as suggested is a great idea. You could use 1” x 1/8” thick angle aluminum for the brackets - say 1” long. I’d use rivnuts in the brackets once you drill the mounting holes through the dash so you can use machine screws to secure the dash.

Rob

[Grubester]

tundra2050 -- yes, here's some pics! I used 1" x 1" x 3/16" wall angle iron, cut down on both of the one-inch sides. I also rounded the corners to minimize potential interference with gages, lights, or switches mounted on the dash.
I chose 3/16" thickness so there would be plenty of threads for the fine-pitch fasteners I used to attach the dash.
Also, I used two fine-pitch screws to attach each bracket to the bottom of the 3/4" sq. tube. I threaded both walls and also JB Welded the bracket to the bottom of the sq. tube.

224659224660

[Waterman]

Since Rob did comment back on the bracket I want to mention what I did as it worked real well. Use a simple Z bracket on the top and 1 exposed fastener on each side. Dash is removable with body on, no ugly fastener on top and body lip holds dash in place at top anyway. Sit in drivers seat and place paper gauges where YOU can see them around/thru your wheel. Basically tweak the std layout to fit you.(to answer your dimension question.)224662

[Stangrob]

tundra2050 -- yes, here's some pics! I used 1" x 1" x 3/16" wall angle iron, cut down on both of the one-inch sides. I also rounded the corners to minimize potential interference with gages, lights, or switches mounted on the dash.
I chose 3/16" thickness so there would be plenty of threads for the fine-pitch fasteners I used to attach the dash.
Also, I used two fine-pitch screws to attach each bracket to the bottom of the 3/4" sq. tube. I threaded both walls and also JB Welded the bracket to the bottom of the sq. tube.

224659224660

Your bracket setup looks factory - nicely done. And definitely much better than having the fasteners hidden by the body :D

Rob

[Stangrob]

Since Rob did comment back on the bracket I want to mention what I did as it worked real well. Use a simple Z bracket on the top and 1 exposed fastener on each side. Dash is removable with body on, no ugly fastener on top and body lip holds dash in place at top anyway. Sit in drivers seat and place paper gauges where YOU can see them around/thru your wheel. Basically tweak the std layout to fit you.(to answer your dimension question.)224662

Yeah, the idea of using paper gauges makes a lot of sense. I've seen many guys complain about having their gauges blocked by the steering wheel. As nice as having the factory layout is, I still prefer function over form, so I'll definitely give your idea a shot ;)

Rob