Speedhut Gauges / Billet Buttons and Harness

[LSX]

So i decided to go with Speedhut Gauges instead of my Autometers. If I go this route, what in the chassis harness do I actually use other than power and ground? Can I still use some of the harness or do I just bypass all the wires for the gauges?

As for the billet buttons I am going to be using them for everything including the headlights. They have 2 options now for amps. 5 Amp and 16 Amp. I havent gotten too much into the electrical yet just purchasing them so which ones will work with the harness. I would assume 5 amp but not sure.

Thanks.

[Mike.Bray]

I used the Billet Buttons for everything and love them. Very high quality bits.

224603

One thing to note, you can order them without the pigtails and they will send you the connectors and pins. Saves a lot of ugly splices.

224604

[PMD24]

Mike, what size are those?

Thanks,

Pat

[hennessyVV]

I also went with speedhut gauges and billet buttons. I opted for turn signal buttons (left and right) as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224613&d=1769141064

[cv2065]

+2 on the Billet buttons. 22mm for the main buttons. 14mm for the turn signals and high beams. 28mm for the push start.

[FLPBFoot]

So i decided to go with Speedhut Gauges instead of my Autometers. If I go this route, what in the chassis harness do I actually use other than power and ground? Can I still use some of the harness or do I just bypass all the wires for the gauges?

Speedhut provides wiring to go from each gauge directly to the sending units. They recommend using these rather than using the wiring in the chassis harness. Doing this I completely eliminated the Sending Units Electric Choke harness going out to the engine. Made a harness using the Speedhut wiring provided with the gauges. On my first build I used the RF harness wiring for the gauge to sending units and after trouble with a couple gauges I called Speedhut and I had to remove the RF wiring and go direct gauge to sending unit. They indicated "some of the gauges don't like their ground to be tied into the chassis as may not work correctly". This was what was happening to me and making a direct isolated connection solved the issue. Also the provided harness from Speedhut have plugs that go directly into the back of the gauges. No splicing just plug and play.

[LSX]

Speedhut provides wiring to go from each gauge directly to the sending units. They recommend using these rather than using the wiring in the chassis harness. Doing this I completely eliminated the Sending Units Electric Choke harness going out to the engine. Made a harness using the Speedhut wiring provided with the gauges. On my first build I used the RF harness wiring for the gauge to sending units and after trouble with a couple gauges I called Speedhut and I had to remove the RF wiring and go direct gauge to sending unit. They indicated "some of the gauges don't like their ground to be tied into the chassis as may not work correctly". This was what was happening to me and making a direct isolated connection solved the issue. Also the provided harness from Speedhut have plugs that go directly into the back of the gauges. No splicing just plug and play.

Perfect! Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!

[Mike.Bray]

Mike, what size are those?

Thanks,

Pat

22mm