First Drive after Registration: Potential Ignition Issue? (Fixed Problem)

[Jim Doak]

This afternoon I took my car for its maiden drive after getting it fully assembled and registered. I drove it up to the local Chevron station and filled the tank to slightly over 1/2 full. While I was tooling around the subdivision, I noticed that during some short but brisk acceleration runs the engine would stumble around 3800 rpm or so (like it wasn't getting any spark or fuel), and while doing this the tach would quit operating. After a few instances of this occurring the problem seems to have disappeared. (I hope.) When I got home, I was able to smoothly rev the engine from idle to 5000+ rpm without any issues.

Anyone have any ideas of what was causing the issue? It seems to me to be ignition related.

FYI, the engine is a carbureted BluePrint 302.

I have an appointment to get a 4-wheel alignment next Tuesday. After that, I'll begin partial disassembly in order to get it ready for bodywork and paint, which is scheduled to commence in mid-February.

[cv2065]

Sounds ignition related. Did you check the wiring to the coil or if you have an MSD box, does it give any error lights?

[Jim Doak]

No MSD box. BluePrint distributor and oil-filled coil. Because the tach basically stopped working and dropped to zero when the cut-outs happened, I'm wondering if it's a bad coil, since the coil provides the signal to the tach.

[cv2065]

Some have cited on the forum that the oil filled ignition coils fail due to heat or vibration. If no box, that’s where I’d start checking. MSD does sell epoxy filled coils to help with that.

[Waterman]

You should look up the part number of the coil for specifications. Many of the oil filled coils are made to run on lower voltage with a ballast. I was told by Blueprint on my 347- "More than okay to use an E-core style coil instead of a cannister style. We recommend at least a 45,000 Volt with .700 ohms or lower primary resistance." I did have to make a custom bracket to hold the 12volt E-coil. See it on front by PS pump.
Enjoy
224097

[rich grsc]

Buy a FORD 93 Mustang coil, it will last for ever. After 3 MSD coil failures, I dug out the original coil from my 1st build, a 1993 Mustang, after 33 years it still works perfect.

The only thing, they are NOT cheap, use an original FORD made coil. F7PZ-12029-AA. Or, you can go junkyard hunting, and maybe pay $5?

[Mike.Bray]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?52975-Ignition-coil

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

Buy a FORD 93 Mustang coil, it will last for ever. After 3 MSD coil failures, I dug out the original coil from my 1st build, a 1993 Mustang, after 33 years it still works perfect.

The only thing, they are NOT cheap, use an original FORD made coil. F7PZ-12029-AA. Or, you can go junkyard hunting, and maybe pay $5?

/\ This is correct. There is a good reason OEM parts are better. I've worked in auto parts manufacturing and sold to the OEM I've Seen the difference in what it take to sell to their performance aftermarket brand and then make parts for the assembly line vehicles.

This is why i have such a serious dislike for the aftermarket HEI distributors ......MATERIALS ARE IMPORTANT. A mile long piece of wire is only as good as it worst spot.

[Jim Doak]

I took the car out a little while ago and the ignition problem persisted. So, I began checking the wiring to the coil and distributor. The nut operating the wrenches (me) forgot to tighten the nut on the stud for the ground wire from the distributor.

Took the car out after I tightened the nut and the engine runs like a champ.

[rich grsc]

That's good