Forte External Hydraulic Clutch

[RogerRoger88]

I've got Forte's external hydraulic clutch with TKX transmission. I do have the 13/16" Tilton MC. My question involves bottoming out the pushrod into the slave cylinder, marking, and then trimming the pushrod. I haven't been able to find a ton of detailed information on this process on the forum, so I just need a little more explanation.

As mine is now, I am only able to push the rod into the cylinder (towards the rear of the car) maybe 1/2". And there is no moving it forward in the opposite direction from its resting position. Is this normal?

For trimming the rod, I need to remove the bolt circled in red to remove the rod, correct? And am I trimming the threaded or non-threaded end? I realize everyone's is different, but what is a good amount to trim off to begin with?

224021

One last question, should I expect to need to trim the rod at the MC as well?



Thanks!

[Wizbangdoodle]

I've got Forte's external hydraulic clutch with TKX transmission. I do have the 13/16" Tilton MC. My question involves bottoming out the pushrod into the slave cylinder, marking, and then trimming the pushrod. I haven't been able to find a ton of detailed information on this process on the forum, so I just need a little more explanation.

As mine is now, I am only able to push the rod into the cylinder (towards the rear of the car) maybe 1/2". And there is no moving it forward in the opposite direction from its resting position. Is this normal?

For trimming the rod, I need to remove the bolt circled in red to remove the rod, correct? And am I trimming the threaded or non-threaded end? I realize everyone's is different, but what is a good amount to trim off to begin with?

224021

One last question, should I expect to need to trim the rod at the MC as well?



Thanks!

First of all, you should see just over an inch of travel on your slave when you push the pedal. Until you get that, don't cut anything. My guess is, you still have air in the system. Or do you mean you can't push it in to get an accurate measurement? Either way, it needs that full travel to work properly. Find out what's holding it up and correct that first.

As far as cutting the rod, I think I cut about 1/2" off, but don't quote me on that. I did cut the non-threaded end because there is a little "cap" that goes over it. I'd also move your bracket on the clutch arm so the pushrod is aligned straight. Right now it looks a little skewed. As far as the MC rod, only trim that if needed. Not sure on the Tiltons, but my Wilwood did get trimmed a bit only because it was holding the pedal up so high.

Hope this helps a little.

[cv2065]

Getting this right is simple once you get the hang of it as it really doesn't come with instructions but Mike Forte is always there if you need him. Bottom out the pushrod w/cap into the slave cylinder and then measure to flush on the cylinder with the TOB against the clutch. Add in another 1/8" for TOB clearance, mark and cut the rod on the non-threaded side. I added a little grease to the cap where the rod sits. I also adjusted the clutch fork bracket to where it was aligned on the horizontal plane with the MC and locked it down. Looks like you might need to adjust yours just a little. The length of the rod was 1.97" when I finished up. This might get you in the ballpark but it seems different for every build. I torqued the bolts to 30 ft/lbs and should hold fine with a little blue loctite.

When you are testing for clutch pedal throw, it really helps to be able to see the slave operate, that way you can adjust the length of the MC perfectly with how far the cylinder pops out with each push of the pedal. Too far and it will fall out. Too short and your clutch pedal throw won't be enough to actuate the clutch fork.

If you mess up the cut on the pushrod and cut it too short, just go down to the hardware store and get another one. It's a 5/16-24, 4" bolt and cut the head off and you're back in business.

[RogerRoger88]

First of all, you should see just over an inch of travel on your slave when you push the pedal. Until you get that, don't cut anything. My guess is, you still have air in the system. Or do you mean you can't push it in to get an accurate measurement? Either way, it needs that full travel to work properly. Find out what's holding it up and correct that first.

As far as cutting the rod, I think I cut about 1/2" off, but don't quote me on that. I did cut the non-threaded end because there is a little "cap" that goes over it. I'd also move your bracket on the clutch arm so the pushrod is aligned straight. Right now it looks a little skewed. As far as the MC rod, only trim that if needed. Not sure on the Tiltons, but my Wilwood did get trimmed a bit only because it was holding the pedal up so high.

Hope this helps a little.

I always tend to leave something out. I haven't actually connected the hydraulic line from the MC to the slave cylinder. I was trying to figure out the trimming part prior to doing that. I had read where other builders had done this prior to installing the engine/trans due to ease of access.

I will remove the bolt holding the rod in place and see what's going on that is preventing very little movement. I'll also work on aligning the pushrod. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

Oh, and feel free to dumb this down as much as possible and treat me like I'm an idiot. Some of the stuff in this build is foreign to me, like the actuation of the clutch.

[RogerRoger88]

Just removed the slave cylinder and got the rod out. Holy crap, this would've been a lot easier with it out of the car. Rod is roughly 3 11/32". And I'll definitely cut the non-threaded end to allow for more adjustment.

I'll keep asking dumb questions, but it's so I understand. My rod cut doesn't need to be perfect because I can adjust by screwing the rod in more or backing it out, correct?

[Wizbangdoodle]

Just removed the slave cylinder and got the rod out. Holy crap, this would've been a lot easier with it out of the car. Rod is roughly 3 11/32". And I'll definitely cut the non-threaded end to allow for more adjustment.

I'll keep asking dumb questions, but it's so I understand. My rod cut doesn't need to be perfect because I can adjust by screwing the rod in more or backing it out, correct?

Lol, there are no dumb questions. I've had to ask several on this board and after explanations, I wondered why I couldn't have figured that out on my own.:confused:

No, the cut doesn't have to be precise, just enough to get it in the range of adjustment. File off the cut edge and put the little cap back on. Did you get the slave to bottom out? If you don't have the lines connected yet, I'll bet it was sealed up and you were compressing the air in the cylinder, no?

[RogerRoger88]

Lol, there are no dumb questions. I've had to ask several on this board and after explanations, I wondered why I couldn't have figured that out on my own.:confused:

No, the cut doesn't have to be precise, just enough to get it in the range of adjustment. File off the cut edge and put the little cap back on. Did you get the slave to bottom out? If you don't have the lines connected yet, I'll bet it was sealed up and you were compressing the air in the cylinder, no?

Ha! On some things I'm really dumb until it clicks. But once it does click, I feel like I could explain it to another rookie.

Here are some updated pics. I'm thinking I still have more to trim, but I may wait until I have the MC and line hooked up and bled.

What little cap are you all referring too? Is the cap on the rod itself? Because my rod doesn't have a cap. Again, I could be misunderstanding this.

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[Wizbangdoodle]

Mine had a rounded, bullet shaped piece that fit over the rod that pushes on the piston in the slave. Wish I had taken a picture of it, but it kinda fits like a sleeve and provides a rounded surface the push on the piston. Speaking of that, if you don't have that "cap", you need to make sure you file off any sharp edge from your cut.

[RogerRoger88]

Mine had a rounded, bullet shaped piece that fit over the rod that pushes on the piston in the slave. Wish I had taken a picture of it, but it kinda fits like a sleeve and provides a rounded surface the push on the piston. Speaking of that, if you don't have that "cap", you need to make sure you file off any sharp edge from your cut.

I just looked at it on Forte's website. Mine definitely does not have that cap on there. Jeez! I did smooth it out real well after the cut. I'll give Mike a call to see how important that cap is. Mine also didn't come with the hydraulic line that it is supposed to come with. Luckily I had ordered an extra brake line from Summit that will work.

224084

[Wizbangdoodle]

Yup that's it. My guess is, it just got left out.