30th Anniversary Coupe on Order. Any parts I should source elsewhere?

[Afdent11]

Hi guys,

I've reserved a 30th anniversary coupe. I've been reading through all the build threads like crazy. I was wondering if there are any parts/upgrades I should leave off my order and get somewhere else for either quality or pricing reasons. Besides what comes with the anniversary coupe, I've added the following:

-hydraulic clutch master cylinder kit
-headers
-power steering rack
-A/C parts (Blueprint engine will have the compressor)
-tires already mounted to the 18" halibrand wheels
-side window parts
-EFI In-tank pump

Thanks!

Jesse

[Papa]

Jesse,

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your Coupe purchase! My recommendation would be to get all the parts that come with the kit unless you are certain about a specific deviation you plan to take on things like gauges, seats, exhaust, etc.. the areas that you may want to go a different direction on are things like the hydraulic clutch setup and fuel setup. These are stand alone systems that you can either improve or reduce cost on by doing your own setup. There are also a few other areas that I and many others have upgraded from the kit parts:

Fuel tank fill tube gasket
Ball joint boots
Gas cap
Rear hatch latch
Etc

There are also some great parts available from our supporting vendors that really improve the overall build:

Radiator shroud - Breeze Automotive
Turn Signal Setup - I.E.427
Drop Trunk, glove box, hood rollers, and much more - Snakebite Motorworks

I think if you go through the many build threads, you'll see the trends on where parts are upgraded for various reasons.

Have fun!

Dave

[Jeff Kleiner]

You can do better on tires than the MTs that FFR supplies. In addition there is no point in having them sitting around with the rubber aging out while you build...wait until you actually need them.

Jeff

[Afdent11]

Jesse,

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your Coupe purchase! My recommendation would be to get all the parts that come with the kit unless you are certain about a specific deviation you plan to take on things like gauges, seats, exhaust, etc.. the areas that you may want to go a different direction on are things like the hydraulic clutch setup and fuel setup. These are stand alone systems that you can either improve or reduce cost on by doing your own setup. There are also a few other areas that I and many others have upgraded from the kit parts:

Fuel tank fill tube gasket
Ball joint boots
Gas cap
Rear hatch latch
Etc

There are also some great parts available from our supporting vendors that really improve the overall build:

Radiator shroud - Breeze Automotive
Turn Signal Setup - I.E.427
Drop Trunk, glove box, hood rollers, and much more - Snakebite Motorworks

I think if you go through the many build threads, you'll see the trends on where parts are upgraded for various reasons.

Have fun!

Dave

That's very helpful. You mentioned the fuel setup. Would you opt for the upgraded EFI in-tank pump from FF (around $650), or just get the included external pump knowing that's a common part to swap out?

[Afdent11]

You can do better on tires than the MTs that FFR supplies. In addition there is no point in having them sitting around with the rubber aging out while you build...wait until you actually need them.

Jeff

That's a good point. Plus with the 18s, they only come with 295 rear tires. I'd like to see if I can fit a 315 in there when the time comes. Thanks!

[Smith is Retired]

I built my Gen I Coupe twenty-three years ago. I made a list of parts not supplied by the kit that would have to be sourced elsewhere. I did not want to go the donor car route (other than the engine and driveline that came out of a scrap yard) simply to avoid the task of removing and cleaning old and potentially worn parts. Instead, I made a list of all parts that I would need and presented it to the parts counter at my local Ford dealer. Having agreed to buy all available parts (such as suspension pieces, the computer, etc) he agreed to give me a price break. Some items, such as the starter, alternator, spark plugs, other miscellaneous items, were sourced from my local NAPA dealer under the same deal -- I gave him a list of what I needed and he rewarded me with the Trade discount.

[Jeff Kleiner]

That's a good point. Plus with the 18s, they only come with 295 rear tires. I'd like to see if I can fit a 315 in there when the time comes. Thanks!

You can. And there are much better tires available.

Jeff

[Papa]

That's very helpful. You mentioned the fuel setup. Would you opt for the upgraded EFI in-tank pump from FF (around $650), or just get the included external pump knowing that's a common part to swap out?

I bought an Aeromotive in-tank pump and hanger that is a direct fit for $300.

https://a.co/d/4hnNpoo

[JimStone]

The FFR side windows are the only game in town for those, unless you want to have the FormaCars electric windows. Pricey, but a substantial upgrade.


Take a look at the Microflex Labs turn signal module and switch. Very nice quality and makes wiring the signals a breeze.

The ididit Headlight Dimmer Switch is very handy for headlight/high beam control and flash to pass

If you want to customize you gauges, you could take the gauge delete credit and buy custom ones from Speedhut. They are awesome at Speedhut with probably the best customer service I've experienced.


Think about what you want to do for interior. I bought the carpet package, but now I'm upholstering everything but the floor, and the carpet quality is only "okay" so I probably am going to upgrade that anyway


There is also basically no other options for AC than the FFR kit, except the pricey FormaCars unit

[SMF-Coupe]

Great thread. Jesse, you and I are in the same boat with my completion date next month.

Dave, what are the ball joint boots you recommend?
Tom

[Papa]

Great thread. Jesse, you and I are in the same boat with my completion date next month.

Dave, what are the ball joint boots you recommend?
Tom

Tom,

The front upper control ball joint boots that come with the kits tend not to seal well and let grease get all over everything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136208&d=1602452358

Replace with boots from Energy Suspension:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136430&d=1602892574

Here are the boots that folks are using to replace the kit-provided boots: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN9AQU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_3

[SMF-Coupe]

Perfect, thanks Dave. On order.
Tom

[8secDuster]

Welcome Jesse,

Which engine are you interested in using from BP?
If you are going with a Small Block Ford from them, and have Performance in mind, I would skip the F5R headers and go with the Gas-N's. They are high quality pieces, with a few options, starting for about the same money.

The F5R headers have a ''stock'' rectangle exhaust port configuration designed around a stock cast iron head, and small 1-1/2-ish diameter tubes. Most SBF aftermarket cylinder heads have a square exhaust port configuration.
The F5R headers will cover or block about a 1/4" of each side wall of the exhaust port, and a little of the port roof. The Gas-N's have a square port flange that matches most aftermarket cylinder heads perfectly, and offer 3 inch header bolt spacing which makes it much easier to install the header bolts.

224297

I was pretty bummed out when I received my F5R headers and seen they covered about a half inch of the exhaust port.
I sold them (cheap) and bought the Gas-N's 1-3/4''

A $500 lesson I wish I would have know about before hand.

Enjoy your build.

[SMF-Coupe]

Mike, do the GasN headers require the gasN sidepipes, or did you use the RRF?
Tom

[Jeff Kleiner]

Before you jump into Gas'N headers &/or pipes I suggest that you research some of the recent threads relating to their delivery and fit. Caveat emptor...

Jeff

[8secDuster]

Mike, do the GasN headers require the gasN sidepipes, or did you use the RRF?
Tom



I used the Factory Five side pipes that I optioned with the car.
I told Gas-N what I had, and that I wanted to change the collector bolts. I wanted to use their Band Clamps to hold the exhaust to the header instead of the 3-bolt flange clamp that Factory Five uses. Nothing wrong with it's function, just didn't like the look. They did it, no problem.

I'm not sure if there are any fitment issue like Jeff mentioned, my exhaust fit identically as the F5 system did. My left side side pipes tuck under the rocker a smidge better then the right side, just like the F5's system did.

The only issue I had was my fault. I forgot to have them add an 02 Bung into the collector. They put the 02 Bungs in their collector adaptor that bolts to their side pipes.
I just bought a $10 02 Bung and had a buddy tig it in for me.

As for delivery. I was very fortunate, I placed my order on a week where they happened to be welding Gen 3 headers. He told me if I had waited 1 one more week to order, it would be a 6-8 week lead time.
Apparently 1 week they make Gen 3 headers, then the next week another model, and so on.
Think I received mine in about 2-1/2 weeks.


My experience with Gas-N was a positive one.




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224448

[Afdent11]

Welcome Jesse,

Which engine are you interested in using from BP?
If you are going with a Small Block Ford from them, and have Performance in mind, I would skip the F5R headers and go with the Gas-N's. They are high quality pieces, with a few options, starting for about the same money.

The F5R headers have a ''stock'' rectangle exhaust port configuration designed around a stock cast iron head, and small 1-1/2-ish diameter tubes. Most SBF aftermarket cylinder heads have a square exhaust port configuration.
The F5R headers will cover or block about a 1/4" of each side wall of the exhaust port, and a little of the port roof. The Gas-N's have a square port flange that matches most aftermarket cylinder heads perfectly, and offer 3 inch header bolt spacing which makes it much easier to install the header bolts.

224297

I was pretty bummed out when I received my F5R headers and seen they covered about a half inch of the exhaust port.
I sold them (cheap) and bought the Gas-N's 1-3/4''

A $500 lesson I wish I would have know about before hand.

Enjoy your build.

Thank you. This is super helpful. Yes I'm getting the 347 from BluePrint. So to make sure I understand, you're recommending not paying the $1300 for FF headers and just getting their standard J Pipes? I understand most of what you're saying, and I'm sure I'll understand the rest once I have the kit and can see it in person.

[Afdent11]

Also, does anyone know how different this aeromotive EFI in tank pump is from the in tank upgraded one from FF?
https://a.co/d/4hnNpoo

[8secDuster]

Some may disagree, but If I were to do it over again, knowing what I know now, I would not get the Factory Five Headers if i were trying to make any kind of horsepower. I would check off the -$100 Header Credit and buy Gas-N's, but, I would get the Factory Five Stainless Exhaust. Mine look really nice.
Im sure you could grind the F5 header flange to taper the header tube opening if you weren't worried about loosing some HP, but I just couldn't do that knowing IMO that its not right. Plus my engine builder wanted to see an 1-3/4 header on my build.

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[Sharris2]

I've got the GAS N on my MK4; very happy with them. My 65 Anniversary coupe came with the FFR pipes and headers; FFR have a video showing there NEW pipes, there better and quieter then there old ones. Check out there video

[Afdent11]

So it sounds like factory five might have improved the headers recently to fit the blueprint 347 better?

Edit: nevermind. Looks like they still use two inch bolt spacing so I think I’ll go with Gas-N. I will still have FF send the side pipes since it only saves $200 to leave them off.