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Punuffney
12-30-2025, 09:01 PM
I don't know if anyone is keeping track, but I think I'm threatening for high score in the time spent installing my doors/windows...

I have two questions.

1. The manual doesn't address how the glass sits in the window track on the power window regulator. On other cars where I've removed/install a new regulator, there is typically a rubber piece in the track to protect the glass or a set screw to pinch the glass to hold it in the track. Does the glass just sit in the track?

2. I've spent considerable time trying to get the gap between the window seals right. For others who have completed the window install, how much friction is against the glass? Does the window go up and down with just a light touch? I'm very close, but it still takes a little effort to move the glass up and down. I'm wondering if the seals will relax after installation. I'm worried that if I remove more material, it then may be too much gap.

As always, thanks for others wisdom.

edwardb
12-30-2025, 09:40 PM
1. The manual does address how the glass is retained. "The glass will get glued after the body is painted." In the glass retainer. Mentioned at the end of the section where it shows installing the mechanism. So during final assembly. I used clear RTV on mine.

2. The window needs to move up and down pretty freely. I kept trimming the door gap and adjusting the gasket material. In my experience, won't get better with time. I obsessed with the appearance a lot. Finally decided it's never going to be as polished as a DD. But once the whole truck was done, wasn't a big deal to be honest.

Dgc333
12-31-2025, 07:53 AM
Not sure if the regulator for the 35 is different than the 33 but in the case of the 33 there was a strip of rubber sheet you wrapped around the glass and tapped on the holder with a mallet. It is quite secure.

edwardb
12-31-2025, 08:13 AM
Not sure if the regulator for the 35 is different than the 33 but in the case of the 33 there was a strip of rubber sheet you wrapped around the glass and tapped on the holder with a mallet. It is quite secure.

The mechanism supplied with the truck 4 years ago when I received my truck kit had a channel that you slid the bottom edge of the glass into and then glued at final assembly. As I described and also in the build manual.

Just 1 More
12-31-2025, 08:51 AM
My 33 had the rubber strip, I suppose filling the channel with RTV would do about the same, just the rubber strip would be easier to remove if necessary.

Punuffney
01-16-2026, 09:12 PM
On a related topic glass installation topic, I thought I'd share some information. I'm nearing mock up completion and I've started the process to get my car inspected and licensed in CA. I would like to drive the truck in the real world for an extended period of time with rough body work to understand what I like/don't like and allow me to potentially customize before I commit to final paint. I was debating what to do with the front and rear glass, as I understand that there is a method to temporarily install the glass to allow you to pass inspection, however there isn't a good installation method for safe driving. The glass is structural and installation with urethane is the only real option. Removing the glass in tact from a urethane installation is nearly impossible. As I was about to dust off my redneck engineering degree and get stupid, I called Factory Five to inquire to the price of replacement glass. I was surprised to learn that the a replacement set for both front and rear glass is only $325 ($385 shipped to CA). I had expected a much higher price and I couldn't throw my credit card at them fast enough. While I'm not made of money and don't want to wastefully break the glass, that amount of money for a backup plan is well worth the flexibility of living with the truck for a while before paint. I thought I'd share in case anyone else is in the same spot.