Building a Coupe-R in South Jersey

[SMF-Coupe]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and just placed my order for a Coupe-R kit. I'm located in south jersey and interested to see if there is anyone else around here who has build a Coupe-R. Looking forward to starting my build in February.

[Lugnut Mark]

Hey bud
Congratulations and welcome to the family. Let the build fun begin. I’m in Georgia so no help to you but good luck on your build there is lots of support here and a great community feel free to ask questions … as they say there are no stupid questions!

[SMF-Coupe]

thanks, Mark. Looking forward to getting started.

[Jphoenix]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and just placed my order for a Coupe-R kit. I'm located in south jersey and interested to see if there is anyone else around here who has build a Coupe-R. Looking forward to starting my build in February.

Are you planning on racing it? Autocross or road race?

[SMF-Coupe]

Hi Jim, I'm planning on starting with HPDEs and see where it takes me. I've driven on track a couple times, but really I'm new to it. My plan is to build it for track fun, seems that in NJ going for something that is also street worthy is a very different build.

[Jphoenix]

Cool, I believe you will find the Coupe-R to be very nice on track, handling is excellent, plenty of info on the forum to get set up for fast track times. Are you going to use the Mustang fuel tank, or a fuel cell?

[SMF-Coupe]

Hey Jim, not sure about the fuel cell. I wont get my kit until February so haven't dove in. I was assuming I'll use the fuel cell from the kit, but open to ideas. I'd be very interested to hear any thoughts you might have for the build. I'm thinking to drop in the BPE 347, but have not yet committed. Not sure about BP's lead time, so I'll probably need to make a call and order in the next couple weeks.
Tom

[Jphoenix]

Here’s a link to my build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49412-Coupe-R-build-in-Seattle

If you are just doing track days, you can use the tank that comes with the kit. But if you plan to race in SCCA, NASA or another sanctioning race group with rules, see if a fuel cell is required for your class.

[SMF-Coupe]

Thanks, Jim. I looked through your thread, very impressive. I'll have some questions when I get my kit. I like the dolly you have or the chassis, what are your L-R, F-R dimensions...I may have to weld one up while I wait.
Tom

[Jphoenix]

I don't recall exactly, the dolly is in my sister's body shop in Montana with the Cobra body sitting on it. I'm sure the LR dimension is around 42" and fore/aft is about 48". I was using existing square tube I had lying around, so I recommend going slightly larger front to rear. In any case - you won't need it very long, just to get the suspension on, once you drop the engine in, it's too heavy IMO.

Smartest thing I did was buy a set of quickjacks, because I don't have room for a proper post lift. Mine is a Quickjack TL7000, bought an open box special they had with a few hundred dollars off, around $1300 shipped.

https://www.quickjack.com/category/portable-car-lifts

[Tynaje]

I don't recall exactly, the dolly is in my sister's body shop in Montana with the Cobra body sitting on it. I'm sure the LR dimension is around 42" and fore/aft is about 48". I was using existing square tube I had lying around, so I recommend going slightly larger front to rear. In any case - you won't need it very long, just to get the suspension on, once you drop the engine in, it's too heavy IMO.

Smartest thing I did was buy a set of quickjacks, because I don't have room for a proper post lift. Mine is a Quickjack TL7000, bought an open box special they had with a few hundred dollars off, around $1300 shipped.

https://www.quickjack.com/category/portable-car-lifts


100% agree, Quickjack 7000, best addition to the shop. The Coupe-R in race height is too low for the Quickjacks. Bought a Low-Pro jack from California Car Covers. You need some long extensions and adapters. It struggles to lift car with IRS as the wheels grip hard pulling inward. A simple fix was 6 mil plastic under rear tires, less friction. Just need to lift the rear to get the Quickjacks under the car.
https://www.calcarcover.com/product/low-profile-billet-aluminum-jack/705 I've used it as a 2000 lb press in tight quarters.

[Jphoenix]

100% agree, Quickjack 7000, best addition to the shop. The Coupe-R in race height is too low for the Quickjacks. Bought a Low-Pro jack from California Car Covers. You need some long extensions and adapters. It struggles to lift car with IRS as the wheels grip hard pulling inward. A simple fix was 6 mil plastic under rear tires, less friction. Just need to lift the rear to get the Quickjacks under the car.
https://www.calcarcover.com/product/low-profile-billet-aluminum-jack/705 I've used it as a 2000 lb press in tight quarters.

When I want to move the car off the quickjacks, I raise it up with the air jacks - plenty of room to move the QJ's in and out as needed. The QJ's put the car at a nice height for working on stuff under and below the belt line
.

[SMF-Coupe]

thanks, guys. Much appreciated!

[NJMike]

Congrats on your recent purchase. It's good to hear of another builder in South Jersey, I don't think that there are many of us.

I placed my order for a MKIV Roadster in November, the order was completed on December 20 and I'm waiting to hear when the delivery date will be, hopefully some time in January. I expected some delays with the Holidays and the end of year sales that Factory Five was having.

Best of luck with your build.

Mike

[SMF-Coupe]

Hey Mike, congrats to you as well. Sounds like you'll be getting started soon. My completion data is late Feb and I'm thinking I'll just run up and get it. Did you go with a BluePrint, or building a motor?
Tom

[NJMike]

Thanks Tom,
I just got word today that my kit will be shipping on Thursday, with delivery dates between Sunday and Tuesday of next week, so yes I will be starting real soon. I bought a 1968 302 block which i'm having built to a 331 Stroker. I'll let you know how delivery goes.

[SMF-Coupe]

Mike, I didn't too deep into registration in NJ, but assuming that the 1968 block gets you past needing any emissions; e.g., cat converters. Is that right? Where did you find such an old block?
Tom

[Stangrob]

Mike, I didn't too deep into registration in NJ, but assuming that the 1968 block gets you past needing any emissions; e.g., cat converters. Is that right? Where did you find such an old block?
Tom

Hey Tom,

If you need info on registering your car in Jersey let me know and I can email you the package I got from Trenton. As Mike and I have discussed, going with a vintage block has lots of advantages, but there's always tradeoffs. But a new/newer engine will require full emissions compliance, which I suspect will be a PITA.

Rob

[NJMike]

Tom,

Yes, to the best of my knowledge from speaking with the State, the Specialty Vehicle Inspector in Winslow Inspection Station and reading the packet that Rob offered to mail you, a pre-emmission block will allow you to get past emissions testing. I'll do PCV and probably cats, but EGR and the computer with the access port was beyond me. Rob is correct, a new engine will require full emission compliance to today's standards. If you are going to go this route make sure that you get one with a VIN stamped on the block. From what I've read Ford started stamping the blocks mid way through 1968. The woman at the State told me that you need to have the VIN when registering a used engine.

On got my block from Northeast Classic Auto Parts in Laurel Delaware. Although it was quite a ride for me, they were great to deal with. I just had the block magna-fluxed and it looks good, so on to machining.

So, my MKIV finally arrived today, the guys at Cunningham were great the delivery couldn't have gone smoother. I started the inventory today, thats gonna take some time.

Mike

[SMF-Coupe]

Thanks guys. My plan is to build this car for track days since a street build would need the some additional things I don't want, and I'm taking advice to opt for the additional protection of the R chasis. But will keep all this in mind in case I plan something down the road.

Great to hear you kit arrived. My completion date is is Feb 21, so I'm starting to collect some other parts.

Does anyone have an opinion on a 15 vs 20 gal fuel cell for a track car?

[Jphoenix]

Does anyone have an opinion on a 15 vs 20 gal fuel cell for a track car?

I installed a 15 gal Fuelsafe cell, my engine is 530 hp 363 and it uses just under 7 gallons in a 30 minute race. I refuel to 10 gallons after every race because the tank has a useable fuel quantity of 13.5 gallons, saves 20 lb's of weight. I pumped it dry (to calibrate the fuel gauge perfectly) and then filled it almost to the brim with 13.5 gallons. I carry about 70 gallons of fuel in the trailer for a three day race weekend.

If you're just doing track days - get a 20 or 22 gallon tank so you can go at least 2 or maybe 3 sessions without refueling. You don't want be that guy that runs out of fuel on track ending the session :-)

[SMF-Coupe]

Thanks Jim, very helpful. I'm going to order the cell now so I have the parts on hand when the car is ready.
Tom

[SMF-Coupe]

Jim, I saw in your thread that your 15 gal tank was snug. you mentioned that your not sure the 20 would have fit. What do you think are the biggest dimensions...I didn't want to wait for my car to arrive to order because Fuel Safe in at a >8 week lead time. Also, are you carburated or EFI, I didn't see a return in your fuel set up. Dumb questions, is mounting the cell by the rails sufficient, I didn't see you had straps under it?

Lastly, and advise on why you didn't go with the hydraulic clutch?
Thanks!
Tom

[jalojay]

welcome

[Jphoenix]

Tom, it's snug because I mounted it to an angle I welded to the chassis so I could use the tank bolts to mount the tank. I'm sure a larger tank would fit, Dave Tabor uses a different brand tank with straps and it looks like he has a very secure installation. My fabricated mount doesn't require straps because the tank is held in place by the tank flange.

The 15 gallon tank I purchased has dimensions (L x W x H): 26" x 17.88" x 9.5"
https://fuelsafe.com/products/race-safe-complete-fuel-cell-15-gallon-rs215

The 22 gallon tank dimensions are: (L x W x H): 25.5" x 17.13" x 13.75" - so just 4 inches taller, but smaller length and width. There are plenty of inches under my 15 gallon tank, probably go at least 6" or more deeper if needed. The "A Size" 2 Gal tank is (L x W x H): 34" x 18" x 9.5" - so same height, but wider.
https://fuelsafe.com/products/race-safe-complete-fuel-cell-22-gallon-b-size-rs222b?_pos=2&_fid=1ca7d9c54&_ss=c
https://fuelsafe.com/products/race-safe-fcst-complete-aluminum-fuel-cell-22-gallon-size-a?_pos=4&_fid=ee3b09095&_ss=c

Also - note the useable fuel quantity for the tank capacity noted on this page: https://fuelsafe.com/collections/motorsports-universal-race-safe-fuel-cells

Personally, not sure I would buy from Fuelsafe again, they miswired the fuel pump plug inside the tank, had to send the pump plate back to them to re-wire it. They did it no problem and pretty quickly, but the connectors they installed on the newly wired plug did not match the internal connectors on the fuel pump (that they installed when I first bought the tank) so I just replaced the connectors myself and added them to the list of vendors to avoid in the future.

My engine is carbureted, I considered going with a return line, the tank has a return port - but doesn't seem to need it - unless I'm missing something. I'm using an Aeromotive fuel regulator - my 289 has a Holley fuel regulator and got notice late last year of a recall on that regulator, so glad I got the Aeromotive for the Coupe.

I do have a hydraulic clutch on the Coupe, it's the Hays (Holley?) annular clutch slave with a Tilton master. I've always had hydraulic clutch slaves on all my race cars and they work great, I normally replace the o-rings in the slave whenever the engine comes out for whatever it needs this time :-)

I forget what brand cell Dave went with, but I'd say go with what he's using, Fuelsafe is great for aircraft and military, but we're just kinda small for them. Their customer service was great - but prefer not to need them if possible.

[SMF-Coupe]

thanks, Jim. As always, super helpful. I can cross reference to an ATL cell, which seem to be more readily available anyway.
Tom

[SMF-Coupe]

Kit is finally here and getting the suspension on. Curious what others have for wheels/tires on a track car. What wheels do you like? How wide for front/back?

[Jphoenix]

Kit is finally here and getting the suspension on. Curious what others have for wheels/tires on a track car. What wheels do you like? How wide for front/back?

285/35r18 front, 315/30r18 rear. Toyo proxes R (not DOT) and Hoosier R8’s. Also Hoosier W2 wets, 275 and 305 for the wets, skinnier and higher psi to get through the puddles. I have a set of FFR halibrands with continentals on them for trailer tires, the slicks will stick to the trailer floor, so gotta have street tires for storage. 4 sets of wheels.

[SMF-Coupe]

Thanks again, Jim.

[SMF-Coupe]

Making slow but steady progress as all my panels are out powder coating and some essential parts are on back order.

I circled back to my pedal box for adjustments now that my break switch is in. The manual instructed me to cut 5/8" off each of the master cylinder push rods when I roughed out the box. Now I see that with this shortening, I can even get the pedal to engage the switches. Seems I need that 5/8". Anyone run into this? Any suggestions? I just ordered three new master cylinders to start over.

Also, If anyone is interested, I fabricated a cradle for the fuel cell out of 1X1s and install front and rear straps that bolt to he bottom rail and let me take it in an out easily. I can share a pic as soon as I figure out how, keeps telling me upload failed.