Mk 5 remote brake booster - anyone install one yet?

[Stangrob]

Hi guys,

I'm planning to use the new remote brake booster that was introduced with the Mk 5 for my 289 FIA build. It solves a problem I've been wrestling with - how to incorporate power brakes while keeping the Wilwood pedal box. I really don't want to go back to the Mustang donor box and use a cable clutch.

So, who's installed one of these in their Mk 5 already? Any feedback? And out of curiosity were there any technical details included with the unit about mounting and brake line lengths? I appreciate your help!

Rob

[michael everson]

I have done 3 and they fit and work well on the Mark 5. Not sure about using it on the Mark 4 I guess you would have to figure out where to put it and make a bracket. If it was me, I would skip it and use a Mustang pedal box and cable clutch. Literally thousands of FFRs out there with that combo. With the right clutch cable, it's as easy as a hydraulic without all the potential failures. Plus, no brake fluid inside your car with the Mustang box.
Mike

[rich grsc]

That booster is huge, with a price that matches

[MakoGT350]

I have it set up in my MK5 build. Using the Wilwood pedal box, Wilwood M/C's, Wilwood brakes all around, and hydraulic clutch for the 347/tkx combo from blueprint. It is all plumbed and bled, but I have not started/driven it yet. Seemed straight forward. For bleeding, I did not bench bleed anything, I fully assembled dry. I then vacuum bled at all four wheels until I got fluid pulled all the way through. Then I pedal bled both sides of the booster, and then at each wheel. (not suggesting this is the best method, but it worked without any hassle)

[Windsorpower]

Mike, do you just hook the vacuum line to the intake? Any vacuum canister required? I’ve put one on my MK4 but haven’t bled it yet. Any bleeding tips since you’ve done a few?

[MakoGT350]

Mike, do you just hook the vacuum line to the intake? Any vacuum canister required? I’ve put one on my MK4 but haven’t bled it yet. Any bleeding tips since you’ve done a few?

I ran a vac line to a port on the intake, did not use a vac canister. Though I have only just started to drive it around the neighborhood as a go cart. I see no reason a canister should be needed, this build is very similar to my 65 mustang and no canister was needed. I shared my bleeding experience above.

[rich grsc]

The need of a canister is dependent on your engine. If it has too radical of a cam, it may not produce enough vacuum at all times for proper brakes

[rickster991]

I have a BP 347 with the FFR brake booster. After driving it for a bit, it doesn’t feel like I am getting much assistance. So I decided to install a vacuum gauge to see what’s going on. It looks like im getting 15 inHg at idle. From reading some posts it looks like you need 18 inHg for the booster. I am going to check with FFR on Monday.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V2CCHhT7xo-znoXu3LwR0TH_XZn81JCA/view?usp=drivesdk

I hope that simply installing a canister will solve the issue. I like the look of this one, can use my gauge and it fits nicely next to my brake reservoirs.

https://a.co/d/aXRuvCQ

[MakoGT350]

I have a BP 347 with the FFR brake booster. After driving it for a bit, it doesn’t feel like I am getting much assistance. So I decided to install a vacuum gauge to see what’s going on. It looks like im getting 15 inHg at idle. From reading some posts it looks like you need 18 inHg for the booster. I am going to check with FFR on Monday.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V2CCHhT7xo-znoXu3LwR0TH_XZn81JCA/view?usp=drivesdk

I hope that simply installing a canister will solve the issue. I like the look of this one, can use my gauge and it fits nicely next to my brake reservoirs.

https://a.co/d/aXRuvCQ

Hey Rick - have you compared the pedal with the engine running vs not running? You will have to pump the pedal a few times with the engine off to deplete the vac in the booster chamber. Once depleted you will feel the pedal with no assist and can compare to the pedal fee with what you have with the engine running.

[rickster991]

Hey Rick - have you compared the pedal with the engine running vs not running? You will have to pump the pedal a few times with the engine off to deplete the vac in the booster chamber. Once depleted you will feel the pedal with no assist and can compare to the pedal fee with what you have with the engine running.

I’ll give that a shot… I just tried it. I hear the air releasing when I step on the pedal so I assume there was vacuum. But it feels pretty much the same before and after. And it feels the same as when the engine is idling.

[Dgc333]

That booster is huge, with a price that matches

Actually it is quite compact. About a foot long and 7" or 8" in diameter. FFR sells them for $600.

I plan to add one to my 33 this winter.

[Just 1 More]

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[rich grsc]

Ya, thats NOT compact. $600 is about 30% cheaper than the price I saw???

[Stangrob]

Ya, thats NOT compact. $600 is about 30% cheaper than the price I saw???

FYI I checked with FF - it's $650 regardless of if you order it with a Mk 5 or standalone. It's not cheap, but it seems most of the power brake solutions I saw were either in that price range or higher. For me, it'll give me the flexibility to install it somewhere other than the engine bay.

Rob

[MakoGT350]

I’ll give that a shot… I just tried it. I hear the air releasing when I step on the pedal so I assume there was vacuum. But it feels pretty much the same before and after. And it feels the same as when the engine is idling.

how are you getting vacuum to the booster? Wondering if the supply to the booster is adequate?

[rickster991]

From my build thread…

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51417-Rick-s-Mark-V-Roadster-Build&p=589131&viewfull=1#post589131

[MakoGT350]

I am not sure it will make any difference - but you are in an intake runner for your vac source and there is another port just below the sniper, it is shown in your photo and it faces the rear of the car. This is the port I used it and the only difference I can think of is that it is central on the manifold and might be better balanced vac source. It just seems strange to me that you feel no difference in the pedal between running and after the vac is depleted from the booster.
Any chance you have access to a vac pump that you can connect to the booster directly?

[rickster991]

I have one in my shop in NC. I did try the feel while I was at 4500 rpm on the street and I could feel the difference. I’m going to give the canister a shot and see. The more chrome the better! :D

I will also try changing the port and see. Thanks I never noticed that one!

[MakoGT350]

Let me know how it goes, I am wondering if a canister is in my future. We are doing a very similar build.

[rickster991]

Here is the update. After talking to FFR, they could not give me the required vacuum specs for the booster, but said my engine should be fine. They did mention that I should be using vacuum line instead of the 130 psi fuel line I was using. So that was the first step. I noticed a little difference but nothing dramatic. So I decided to install the vacuum canister. It was straightforward. I had to use a different mount as the one supplied caused the canister to not fit. The first thing I noticed was a steady gauge needle and 20+ inHg.

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I then went for a drive. What a difference! It still felt solid but the brakes engaged much sooner and firmer. I was finally able to lock up the tires! I noticed my rears locked up before the fronts so I need to adjust the balance bar. Overall I recommend installing the canister. It’s worth the $60 investment.

[Rian_Colorado]

Wondering if I can retrofit this into my Daytona..........hummmm

Rian

[MakoGT350]

Here is the update. After talking to FFR, they could not give me the required vacuum specs for the booster, but said my engine should be fine. They did mention that I should be using vacuum line instead of the 130 psi fuel line I was using. So that was the first step. I noticed a little difference but nothing dramatic. So I decided to install the vacuum canister. It was straightforward. I had to use a different mount as the one supplied caused the canister to not fit. The first thing I noticed was a steady gauge needle and 20+ inHg.

223734

I then went for a drive. What a difference! It still felt solid but the brakes engaged much sooner and firmer. I was finally able to lock up the tires! I noticed my rears locked up before the fronts so I need to adjust the balance bar. Overall I recommend installing the canister. It’s worth the $60 investment.

Excellent - glad it worked. I will be on the lookout in the near future to see if I need one as well.

[rickster991]

Final install…. I like the look!

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