Wiring questions - fuel pump, e-parking brake, seat heaters

[RogerRoger88]

Give me some wood, a hammer, and some nails, and I can build a lot of stuff. Give me some wiring with instructions, and it’s a foreign language to me. If it’s not plug and play, I’m going to struggle. Having said that, I’ve got a few wiring questions.

1. I have the Holley 12-345 340 LPH in-tank fuel pump and the ProFlow 4 EFI. For the builders with this same setup, are you wiring the fuel pump to the RF wiring harness? Or are you wiring it up to the EFI?

2. I am using Wilwood’s electronic parking brake. How are you all wiring it up?

3. I am adding Cobra Valley’s seat heaters. I don’t think it matters what brand, but again, how are you all wiring them up?

Again, I'm an idiot, so the more detail, the better.

Thanks!

[Blitzboy54]

If it were me I would run a terminal block directly off the battery for the seat heaters and the parking brake. They are both higher current, you can then add a fuse to your seat heaters. Option B for the seat heaters is a a relay. I would not put a fuse for the parking brake, it's a parking brake and has to work current be damned. Run the fuel pump off the Ron Francis harness. It is already setup for that. Just plug it in, there is already a fuse in the fuse panel for it. The pro flow will have all it's own instructions, follow those.

This is just if it were me, electrically speaking there is more than one way to skin a cat. A lot of options, rarely only one way to do it.

[Mike.Bray]

If you're a novice at electrical you might want to pick up a bottle of this.

222435

[Mike.Bray]

On a serious note, run the fuel pump from the RF harness but run the radiator fan from the ProFlo so you have more control of it.

[rich grsc]

Heated seats do not need relays, they ARE NOT high current users, about 3-6 amps. They are wired with a 10 amp fuse.

[JMD]

I ran a 6 gauge wire from the battery to a fuse block that I mounted in the trunk for additional items like seat heaters or other things that may need power in the future. Since my battery is up front it's nice to have a power source in the trunk that isn't pulling power from the main fuse panel or existing harness. You can ground it anywhere directly to the frame.

I agree with BlitzBoy's advice. And like Rich said, no relays needed for any of these items.

[Papa]

For the fuel pump, you'll want to understand what the FloPro4 has for controlling the pump. It could be a + or - control output. Both are easy to integrate into the RF harness.

The fan should also be controlled by the EFI, and is almost always a - trigger that you can simply connect to the RF ground trigger on the fan relay. There are two separate green fan thermo control wires in the RF harness, and either can be used.

All you need for the seat heaters power is a 10amp keyed power source, like the radio wire in the RF harness. The seat heater harnesses have their own relays and switches, you just need to provide power.

The Wilwood EPB has its own 40amp fuse. It requires both a battery (hot all the time) connection and a switched power connection along with a ground. You can add a buss bar for the high draw EPB. Here is what my auxiliary wiring block wiring will look like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220318&d=1760718133

[RogerRoger88]

Thanks everyone for the responses and information! I think this gives me a good starting point. Although I did forget to mention the tail light or trailer converter. Based on what I've read, installing it somewhere that is easily accessible may be wise if it has issues.

I know I'll have more questions if I decide to switch out some of the FFR provided things - ignition, light switch, etc.

[gbranham]

When I wired up my Wilwood EPB according to the directions (with both 12v switched and constant feeds), the illumination ring on the dash switch would stay on when the EPB was activated and the key removed from the car. I thought that was goofy, so I moved my 12v constant feed to a 12v switched feed to overcome it. Now, I have to turn my key to On to activate the EPB. Not a big deal, and maybe there's a way around it, but that's how I left mine.

Greg

[Jimmy B]

If you're a novice at electrical you might want to pick up a bottle of this.

222435

Thanks for the tip, I am into the wiring part right now and this will come in handy.

[RogerRoger88]

When I wired up my Wilwood EPB according to the directions (with both 12v switched and constant feeds), the illumination ring on the dash switch would stay on when the EPB was activated and the key removed from the car. I thought that was goofy, so I moved my 12v constant feed to a 12v switched feed to overcome it. Now, I have to turn my key to On to activate the EPB. Not a big deal, and maybe there's a way around it, but that's how I left mine.

Greg

I don't see that being a big deal either, since I'll be activating it as soon as I finish driving. But I can see forgetting and having to turn the key back to on before activating. And I agree, I wouldn't want the ring to stay on. Thanks for the info!

[Papa]

When I wired up my Wilwood EPB according to the directions (with both 12v switched and constant feeds), the illumination ring on the dash switch would stay on when the EPB was activated and the key removed from the car. I thought that was goofy, so I moved my 12v constant feed to a 12v switched feed to overcome it. Now, I have to turn my key to On to activate the EPB. Not a big deal, and maybe there's a way around it, but that's how I left mine.

Greg

Greg,

That's interesting. I haven't wired mine yet, but here is what the Wilwood instructions state regarding the LED indicator:


The red indicator light on the EPB control switch will illuminate when the EPB is engaged, but only while the ignition is ON. The light will go out once when the EPB is released. If the indicator light flashes, there is a fault in the system. Refer to the troubleshooting section below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222502&d=1765036099



Now I'm curious how it will work once I wire things up.

[AndrewIdaho]

I wired mine up per the Wilwood directions and the switch and LED are only active when the Ignition switch is in the On/ACC position...

Andrew

[gbranham]

It's entirely possible I've miswired. Hah! Ill have to fiddle with it. Maybe.

Greg