I'm not a big fan of sheet metal screws in fiberglass, SO, I did this instead.

[Jim Frahm]

I'm not the first to try this but this is the way I mounted the latches to the hood.

I machined a backing plate with 8-32 threads.

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Of course that means you need to open up the hole on the back side of the hood so you can install the backing plate.

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Then I machined a bushing to fill the oversized hole and also support the square shaft.

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Credit for both of these ideas goes to other builders in the forums. I'm not sure who came up with the improvements but I'm glad they did.

The backing plate and bushing will be glued in place with JB Weld.

[CraigS]

Maybe a bit of overkill but very nicely done.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nicely executed Jim.

Public Service Announcement

This is why I always advise to orient the hood latch bases side to side rather than front to back:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221770&d=1763568976

Oriented front to back you're almost guaranteed to blow through one side or the other of the rib around the perimeter of the hood. I've repaired dozens of 'em (and am a little surprised that your body guy didn't).

Jeff

221770

[gbranham]

Guilty as charged, Jeff. Doh!

[Jim Frahm]

Nicely executed Jim.

Public Service Announcement

This is why I always advise to orient the hood latch bases side to side rather than front to back:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221770&d=1763568976

Oriented front to back you're almost guaranteed to blow through one side or the other of the rib around the perimeter of the hood. I've repaired dozens of 'em (and am a little surprised that your body guy didn't).

Jeff

221770

The latch base orientation is definitely a first time builder, follow the manual, rookie mistake. I thought the handle would only lock when it was inline with the base, I found out later it will lock inline and perpendicular to the base. I'll get creative and fill in the holes with something that looks like it belongs there.

My PSA is to have Jeff Kleiner or another painter that specializes in FFR body and paint work do the paint job. They know all the secrets. I'm thrilled with the job my local shop did on my car but it took three times as long and I'm guessing twice as much to do it.

Jim

[Jim Frahm]

Maybe a bit of overkill but very nicely done.

I find myself doing a lot of things during this final assembly that are a bit overkill but I have the time (Winter is here in the PNW) and I don't want the build to end. :eek:

[Rebostar]

Well done. The small details add up in the end to a quality build!

BTW... Where in the PNW are you located?. I'm just outside of Portland OR with 500 miles on the MK4.

[TrackDay17]

Very nice work, taking more notes for my build !

[Jim Frahm]

Well done. The small details add up in the end to a quality build!

BTW... Where in the PNW are you located?. I'm just outside of Portland OR with 500 miles on the MK4.

Spokane WA. I plan to get it registered as soon as Spring has sprung.

[Jim Frahm]

Very nice work, taking more notes for my build !

Thanks! My advice to new builders is to read through a couple of build threads from experienced builders to learn the nuances of building these cars.

[egchewy79]

I had the same thoughts about screws into the fiberglass.
My solution was to use barrel/sex bolts to secure the hardware.

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/first-roadster-build.636356/page-32?post_id=6115253#post-6115253

[OB6]

I had similar thoughts about screws and fiberglass, but then remembered the boats we've owned and all the things that were attached to them the same way. Those things remained solid through many years of hard use. That said, Jim's solution above is very clean!

[Jim Frahm]

I had the same thoughts about screws into the fiberglass.
My solution was to use barrel/sex bolts to secure the hardware.

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/first-roadster-build.636356/page-32?post_id=6115253#post-6115253

That's a nice and easy solution, especially when you install the base of the latch inline with the channel on the bottom side of the hood. I'm surprised after 30 years of manufacturing these cars that there are still oddities like this in the manual, i.e. showing the latch installed front to back versus side to side.

Thanks for sharing another option.

[TrackDay17]

Thanks! My advice to new builders is to read through a couple of build threads from experienced builders to learn the nuances of building these cars.

I've been reading since I joined up and I still go back and reread threads constantly.
I'm glad I read about the front lower control arm grease serts changing them out before installing or it's tough to get a grease gun in there.
A quick trip to the auto parts store from reading EdwardB'd thread saves me a future headache, learning from you guys who have been there and done it multiple times is the greatest part about this forum.

[ProfessorB]

I find myself doing a lot of things during this final assembly that are a bit overkill but I have the time (Winter is here in the PNW) and I don't want the build to end. :eek:

.
I LOVE good overkill. It's SO cool.