Roll Bar Issue on MkIV

[BRRT]

Hey guys,

I unboxed my FFR supplied roll bar for the first time yesterday and ran into a slight problem. The hoop will slide all the way down the frame stubs with just a minor bump with my hand. The rear leg will slide all the way down the frame stub with just a wiggle. So I followed the manual instructions and slide the rear leg onto the frame stub, then installed the hoop. The stub on the hoop hits the top of the rear leg long before the 2 come into alignment, like the rear leg may be too long. The hoop is a full inch away from the frame but hits the leg. Before I start cutting, has anyone else ran into this issue?

Thanks for any insight into this.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221694&d=1763418702

[Jeff_J.]

I ran into some challenges with the roll bar fitment the first time as well. I had to clear some of the metal spatter inside the leg tube to get it down far enough but it sounds like this isn't what you're dealing with. I read on the forum where pulling/pushing the hoop towards the cockpit helps, believe it or not there's a little bit of play in the fit of the pipe. I think I also had the hoop and leg up off the final seated position, once the two were mated, they slid down the last bit together. I've had the roll bar out a few times now, one you have the technique it gets easier.. Hope this helps.
Jeff_J.

[FFinisher]

That'll go. Will take some muscle, but it will fit.

[Jim Doak]

I installed my roll bar a couple of days ago and had the same issue. What I did was to sand about 1/16" to 1/8" off the end of the stub on the roll bar hoop that the rear leg slides over.

After sanding/grinding a small amount off the hoop stub to provide the necessary clearance (effectively shortening it by 1/16-1/8"), I was able to lower the hoop enough that I could wiggle/finagle the rear leg to get it started onto the stub. After that, I was able to simultaneously raise the rear leg onto the hoop stub while lowering the hoop onto the frame stubs.

[Claybuster]

Yep. There is a little wiggle room on both parts, and it takes some patience to get them to line up and go home. I was also frustrated with the initial install, but the end result is as advertised. I wish I had taken a few moments to consider the attachment points before I started pre-drilling holes. You may find that the "Frankenstein" bolt at the top of the diagonal tube is not necessary if you take your time and install only the lower bolts. I wish I had taken a few more minutes to look things over...
Enjoy the build!
Jason

[rich grsc]

NO, the 'Frankenstein' bolt is necessary. If you would ever be in a situation where the roll bars are needed, that bolt is important. Without it the bars will pull apart and collapse

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jeff,
Grind a little chamfer on both the male and female. Lube (I use white grease) both top and bottom. Don't sink the hoop quite all the way until you get the rear leg started; bring the down tube up to it while there is still some wiggle. Finally, it is sometimes helpful to use some "artificial muscle" in the form of a ratchet strap between the top of the hoop and a chassis tube to persuade the top to come forward enough to get the two pieces engaged. Good luck!

Jeff

[OB6]

Yeah, the roll bars can be fun, and the 2" bars I installed were definitely a project. I now have an issue on one side where I can't pull up the hoop by hand. I need to use an engine hoist to apply upward pressure while I tap it lightly with a dead blow hammer to wiggle it off. Definitely need to address this before it goes to Jeff.