Whitby Motorsports power brake kit - any experience with it?

[Stangrob]

Hi gents,

So now that I decided to stick with the manual brakes in my roadster, I came across the Whitby power brake update. I was originally thinking of going with a hydroboost system but opted to not go with that after getting some feedback. The Whitby system with the 1990 Mustang brake booster looks pretty good, but does anyone have any experience with it? Any and all feedback is appreciated!

https://www.whitbymotorcars.com/product/power-brake-kit/

Rob

[wallace18]

I have used it on MK4, 33HR, Daytona coupe and HR Truck. Other than wait time I like the kit.

[michael everson]

I did power brakes in nearly every Mark 4 I built. You can do it yourself without that kit. Nothing wrong with the kit but why wait when you can just buy most of the parts locally.
87-93 Brake booster:
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Compatible-1984-1993-Thunderbird-Fairmont/dp/B0B4ZZ3R3K/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1LWGLLI2DLZ5L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Hb_rdLXCkykimmxkCyJ2a6Rfp9RM2yUYv 7dnVIGsu-b6vZCGYBZzmhHzP31EypqHr6JoO9H_8fjrS3utFl_iG2ZWn4-LTufKS2K7lqXmBrwVyuBYhfcq0IPArqi0-_xDP_JAMGEV-DP5A1juekIUGlJ4u-g5UTZcp0wQrUNxQw-nfJqz3RXSL3wA60_6jo_23tYmSaIfCl3v3y7q6n9Z2U3naku4n i3Fnv_k7FdnY3A.UDENULy57eXPgdBqYxag8xM7COIOY4MA67u GHtBDasI&dib_tag=se&keywords=87-93+Mustang+brake+booster&qid=1763207905&sprefix=87-93+mustang+brake+booster%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-1

1995 Mustang GT or Cobra Master cylinder loaded
Oreilly auto part number 10-2693
2 brake line adapters
BLF33B
BLF31B
Then you will need a 1/2 inch spacer for the booster which you can make or use standoffs on the booster studs.
You will also need to modify the frame rail near the booster and open the hole in the firewall.
All of this requires a Mustang pedal box.
Mike

[jts359]

Rob, I did what Mike said in post #3, It works great , And I think I still have a Mustang pedal box but you would need a unmodified brake pedal , Ed

[Jim Doak]

Ditto to what Mike said. I used his recommended booster and purchased the spacer that he used to offer. Modified the 3/4" frame tube, purchased a 1995 Mustang Cobra master cylinder from Summit and an SN95 (1995) Mustang pedal box from eBay. I've only driven it about 7 miles so far go-carting, but it works great. I highly recommend power brakes. (And steering, too.) (I built my first car with manual steering and brakes then quickly retrofit power steering and Hydroboost assist.) One other recommendation: see if you can locate a Mercury Villager/Nissan Quest remote master cylinder brake fluid reservoir from a wrecking yard. It'll make it much easier to access the reservoir. Here's a pic showing the standard reservoir location (note that it'll be very difficult to access the reservoir once the body is on the chassis) and a second pic showing the remote Villager/Quest reservoir.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Like Mike I've done vacuum power brakes on every Mk3 and Mk4 that I've built. To elaborate on the frame rail mod he mentioned after cutting out the 3/4" square tube section necessary for booster clearance I replace it with a piece of the same that extends about 6" beyond the opening on both ends and bolt it against the original, either beside or below. I drive a 4 or 5 inch section of 5/8" key stock into all four open ends where the bolts will be so that when they're tightened the square tubes are not crushed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221572&d=1737043150

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221571&d=1737043393

Jeff

221571221572

[Stangrob]

Thanks guys - this is very helpful. Whitby now offers a version of the kit that supports the current Wilwood pedal box plus has a Wilwood master with remote reservoirs so that's what I was looking at. The new one that supports the Wilwood pedal box comes with a new brake pedal, which is likely how was able to retrofit his solution to the current footbox.

Rob

[Stangrob]

Hey guys,

After thinking this over a bit more I'm now leaning towards the suggestion of fabricating my own power brakes with the tips you've provided. I do want to keep my Wilwood pedal box though, so I'm working on a few ideas on how to have the existing pedal and brake booster play nice. I'll share whatever I come up with.

In regard to the master cylinder, I'm looking at a Wilwood remote tandem master cylinder (https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList?group=Remote%20Tandem%20Master% 20Cylinder), plus their matching proportioning valve. My only question is what bore size are you running with your conversions? I suspect it's 1" but I'd prefer to confirm with you guys first.

Thanks!

Rob

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey guys,

After thinking this over a bit more I'm now leaning towards the suggestion of fabricating my own power brakes with the tips you've provided. I do want to keep my Wilwood pedal box though, so I'm working on a few ideas on how to have the existing pedal and brake booster play nice. I'll share whatever I come up with.

In regard to the master cylinder, I'm looking at a Wilwood remote tandem master cylinder (https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList?group=Remote%20Tandem%20Master% 20Cylinder), plus their matching proportioning valve. My only question is what bore size are you running with your conversions? I suspect it's 1" but I'd prefer to confirm with you guys first.

Thanks!

Rob

Best bet might be to go with the remote vacuum booster that FFR now offers. This allows you to still use the Wilwood pedal box, dual masters and the balance bar.

Jeff

[Stangrob]

Best bet might be to go with the remote vacuum booster that FFR now offers. This allows you to still use the Wilwood pedal box, dual masters and the balance bar.

Jeff

I'm going to check it out - is an interesting option. Optimally it would be cool to mount it next to the rollbar in the trunk - will be a little extra plumbing but having it truly hidden would be great.

Rob

[Stangrob]

Well, I reached out to the parts guys at FF and confirmed that the remote booster is now orderable (but currently on BO). I've asked for some additional details, but I agree Jeff that this appears to be the magic bullet I've been looking for. The price is $650 plus shipping but that's very much in line with other solutions I've been looking at.

I really want to try and keep the engine bay fairly clean so I'm planning to install the booster in the trunk, behind the cockpit bulkhead. Naturally there are details to be worked out, but this seems very doable. The front brake lines will need to be a bit longer, but I can't see that being an issue. I'll also have to plumb vacuum from the engine to the remote booster, but I can easily install an appropriately sized hard line to provide that. I could also just install a vacuum pump in the trunk, but I'd rather keep it simple with the engine vacuum.

I'll be sure to share more as this progresses - thanks again guys for the great input!

Rob

[2JZ]

I used their kit a few years back, but not the Mustang booster one, mine used a different setup. Their components were quality though, good instructions. If you stick with manual, the Whitby kit is definitely better than trying to cobble something together yourself