Interference between block plate and oil pan - SBF

[Rian_Colorado]

Hello all,

So ever since first start on my motor, I've had a leak dripping down the block plate at the rear of the motor. No worries, I thought - just swap out the gasket right? Well, I finally got around to trying to replace the gasket, and I've encountered an issue that probably caused the leak. There appears to be enough interference between the block plate and the Milodan pan, that it forces the pan forward about 1/8" too much. There is a bulge in the block plate that appears to cause this interference. Long story short, this prevents the oil pan mounting bolts from lining up with the holes in the block, and also puts pressure on the gasket fitting at the rear of the pan. I'm assuming that the oil pan was already installed before the block plate, so the interference wasn't obvious when everything was installed by the builder. (yes, I have a note out to him as well)

Looking at this, the options I see are

A enlarging the bolt holes in the pan to allow it to fit without pressure
B) Grinding the back of the pan to allow it to gain some clearance from the block plate
C) Changing the block plate to something that won't interfere with the oil pan
D) Is there another oil pan that has a little smaller lip and wouldn't interfere?

With options A or B, I worry about oil leaks
With option C, well...... I really don't want to pull the transmission (or the whole motor) to swap this out.

Thoughts on options?


There is also an area about 1" in diameter where the block plate has plating bubbling and peeling off of it. Could be from something getting hot behind it? Not sure....



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221511&d=1763139040

[Mike.Bray]

My spacer plate is flat.

https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/mdl-block-plate-6-bolt-sbf-157-tooth-t-5tkotkx-with-clear-zinc-plating/

[bobl]

If that is the stock aluminum block plate I would try to "adjust" it with a hammer and punch. You can remove the rear main cap to gain some access. if it's thick steel you'll probably need to remove it. I think you are asking for more oil leak possibility by grinding on the pan are shifting it's location.

Bob

[cv2065]

My QT spacer plate is flat as well. I wouldn't be grinding or enlarging anything. I'd probably pull the trans back, take the plate off and see what's going on there. Nothing should be bulging with pressure anywhere on the build.

[rich grsc]

To remove the plate requires pulling the bell housing, the clutch and flywheel, not just pulling the transmission back.

[Rebostar]

I'm not sure where that block plate came from. The several SBF block plates I've used were flat steel about 1/16" thick without that bulge. The correct fix is to install a new "flat" plate from Summit or Speedway. Unfortunately, as mentioned above the engine and or the transmission would need to come out. If you choose to remove the rear main bearing cap, you may be able to flatten that bulge out using a brass drift or a machined flat bar you can put against the bump and tap it flat. Make sure you have enough clearance from the flywheel for the "bump" material to be pushed in. Bad idea to open the pan mount holes. That might get you a whole new can of worms like leaking front or rear pan seals. I've used several Milodan Pans they have always fit! For my Cobra I used a Moroso "stroker" pan for the 427W.
With the questionable "hot spot", you might be better off just replacing the plate.
Best of luck.
Allyn

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