Cutting aluminum panels "cleanly"

[skullandbones]

I have seen some pretty fancy mods out there involving cuts for the alum panels in the kits. So I am wondering how many different methods people are employeeing to get the job done. I have thought about several options but just getting to the point where I need to "pull the trigger" and actually do it like on the truck alum for a sunken battery box. I am thinking a cutting wheel (very thin) on a small pheumatic tool I have might work for some cuts. What are you thoughts on the matter?:confused:

Thank you, WEK.

[rich grsc]

On straight lines, I use a $.99 scoring tool from Lowe's, score an snap. On curved lines a jig saw with the finest tooth blade I can find. Using the jig saw, keep some WD 40 on the panel and it works fine.

[AC Bill]

I used a very large set of tin snips for some cutting. A little tricky but worked good. I also used a small circular blade on my Dremel. Destroyed the blade mind you..:rolleyes:

[sheephearder]

After using the jig saw or dremel tool, I use a hand held belt sander to make the sides absolutely straight or smooth out the rounded cuts. Use a fine grit or finer if you can find some.

[Ray]

Another little trick is to clamp the metal between two pieces of wood and cut through all three layers. This reduces the chances of leaving a jagged edge that you have to clean up later.

Ray

[edwardb]

Almost all of my aluminum cutting I did with a bandsaw and a metal cutting blade. Then cleaned up the edges on my stationery belt/disk sander, and finally hand sanding block an/or file. I fabbed about 40 parts from aluminum and several from steel in this way. For inside cuts, where the bandsaw doesn't work, used a fine metal cutting blade in my sabre saw. That actually would work very well for all cuts. Just not as convenient or easy to get straight cuts as with the band saw.

I've seen and wondered about nibblers. There are air and electric varieties. Looks like might be another good option. But now that my build is done not pursuing anything new. Maybe someone else can give their experience.

[riptide motorsport]

cut off tool. fine tooth jig saw. clean up with a file.

[Gopher]

Plasma cutter worked great on panels and for making any brackets you need.

[SirAustin]

Dremel tool with a cutting wheel followed by a deburing tool. I like the two peices of wood idea, that will work great for when I cut holes.

[Gumball]

Industrial shear and brake at a friend's shop did the trick for me on larger panels and straight cuts. Smaller cuts were done using a combination of the alternatives mentioned above.

[Richard Oben]

For small stuff cut with snips, make a mess about 1/8 too far from the cut line. Then go back and trim to the cut line making a curl. works great. For bigger stuff, jig saw with the finest blade I can buy, WD or ATF as a lubricant, just about anything will do the job. Clean up with sanding block. File works but they can get clogged with aluminum pretty easy, same with a bench grinder wheel, it will get clogged with aluminum so we find sand paper to work better long term. JMHO, Richard.

[Bob Cowan]

A cut off wheel in a drill motor is cheap and easy. BUT, make sure it's a wheel specifically designed for alum, otherwise it will clog up in seconds.

[Jason Lavigne]

I agree - some griding/cutoff wheels don't like aluminum.

I wanted to add also that, for drilling larger diameter holes (for things like grommets, etc.), it's well worth it to get a step drill. You can get them from different manufacturers like Milwaukee or Irwin at Home Depot, and they even put a nice chamfer on the hole if you do it right.

Jason @ FFR

[skullandbones]

Interesting that you should mention step drills. They really work well for the grommet sizing (easy to custom fit). I used to think they were sort of a gimmicy tool that wouldn't be found in a true craftsman toolbox. Then I saw the Tuttles using them and other fabricators as well. Now I have incorporated them into my tools for certain tasks. It's funny how you keep looking for just the right tool for different jobs. I think I will be looking through books and stores for the rest of my life. After that maybe I'll go to "tool heaven" otherwise known to my wife as "tool hell". Thanks for your comments, WEK.

[MPTech]

On straight lines, I use a $.99 scoring tool from Lowe's, score an snap. On curved lines a jig saw with the finest tooth blade I can find. Using the jig saw, keep some WD 40 on the panel and it works fine.

x2 what Rich said on the score & snap method. When he told me how straight, clean, and FAST a line this can cut, I was impressed.
We were cutting 3' straight lines in minutes, and running a small disk sander down the edge for final cleanup.

Score the aluminum a couple times using a straight edge and then bend it in the brake.

[Paul Adkins]

Jason @ FFR,

Can you tell us what kind of aluminum the FFR panels are made from? thickness?

Thanks,

Paul

[Paul Adkins]

While we are on the subject, what material are the FFR Aluminum panels made from? Thickness?

Paul

[MPTech]

I believe they are 6061 T6 .040" aluminum.

[kabacj]

I know people are going to yell at me for this but here goes. I cut aluminum on my table saw. For a perfect straight cut it cant be beat. I have cut up to 1/8 inch no problem.

I have a metal cutting bandsaw, electric sheers, air saw nothing makes a better straight cut.

Sure a Hydraulic sheer is good but who has one that can cut 48 inches plus

I'm not recommending this method of cutting because if you are not very experienced with safe use of a table saw then I would not try it.

That said you get an edge that is about as close to laser cut as you can get at home.

John

[fordfreak]

A trick is to reverse the saw blade so its turning with the leading edge of the blade contacting metal first , sounds kinda funky but works great, i would not try this on steel

[myjones]

I use a hand held belt sander to make the sides absolutely straight or smooth out the rounded cuts. Use a fine grit or finer if you can find some.

If you do this be sure to buy blue or purple belts, they have Zircon instead of garnet abrasives. The blue color lets you know you can use them on steel, Al and other hard materials.
HTH
DB

[myjones]

If you do this be sure to buy blue or purple belts, they have Zircon instead of garnet abrasives. The blue color lets you know you can use them on steel, Al and other hard materials.
HTH
DB

Another useful way to use these belts is to cut three pieces of plywood to place inside the belt to make a block sander. Cut them to fit tightly and push the middle layer in last. The belt will last a long time this way and if you round over the ends of the outer two pieces of plywood at different radiuses or sharp points you can clean up all kinds of shapes with it.

[carbon fiber]

whatever you do NEVER use a bench grinder to grind aluminum. the aluminium builds up in the wheel and can even come apart(explode) from the imbalance. i use bandsaw or cutoff wheel in air die grinder to cut aluminum and 180 grit sanding discs(die grinder) to clean the cut edges.there are also scotchbrite wheels made for polishing the edge after the sanding but is mostly used in making aircraft parts to guarantee no cracks starting from the edge. i've built numerous parts from scratch and this is the easiest way to do it. when marking the cuts(usually from a paper or plastic template) use a sharpie to outline the template and then use a scribe to trace the template. you will have a fine silver scribe line that is super easy to see in the middle of the black sharpie mark. for making perfect hole in different sizes there are spotface bits. they have four cutting edges and a centering tip. drill center hole with regular drill bit and then the spotface bit cannot move as it cuts the hole. they are expensive and you have to have one for each size hole you need but they make a perfect cut hole.