Remote Oil Filter-Any real benefit?

[Doc76]

Hey guys
OB installed one of these and while he did a nice job, the adapter on the 302-block leaks. Actually the only leak I have.
I am unfamiliar with the fitment and don’t see any similar videos online as to how this one installs. Is there a way to stop the leak between the adapter and block other than remove it all?
Is there any real benefit to keep it other than mildly easier filter access?
It looks like the Fram HP1 I use “should” clear everything although the clutch cable will probably end up resting on the filter from underneath by the way it comes out of the wall and wraps under the location where the filter will be.
Lastly, given the header is so close to the filter, is there a measurable risk to heat soak from the header onto that oil filter if I go back to “stock”?
221343

[Stangrob]

It's interesting - at the MOTTS Build School last month the instructors gave a number of tidbits of info over the three days. One was to collect the parts for the remote oil filter installation kit and toss it into the garbage. They said it was more trouble than it was worth, and that they leak horribly. Their recommendation was to instead use a 90-degree filter adapter that Ford sells for their SB vans. That will allow the filter to clear the headers and other obstacles. You might want to check that out ;)

Rob

[Guardm16]

221348

I love mine

[Mike.Bray]

Ditch the Fram filter while you're at it, worse filter made.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you have the long tube headers the filter will fit directly on the block without any adapter.

Jeff

[Waterman]

Mine leaked right off the bat so I changed to the 90 deg version mentioned above. I set it so 45 deg up towards front. The filter is smaller- Order 90 Degree Billet Oil Filter Adapter for 1965-1995 Ford Mustang 5.0L 302 V8, 2011-2021 Mustang & 2016-2018 Focus RS, Black $43 Amazon. Enjoy the drive

[Blitzboy54]

Mine leaked. I went with the ford performance 90 adapter. I had Jpipes so needed it.

[Doc76]

Ditch the Fram filter while you're at it, worse filter made.

Which do you recommend?

[cv2065]

Which do you recommend?

Can't go wrong with the Motorcraft FL-1A. And its available at Wally World.

[Nigel Allen]

Get rid of it if you can. Mine blew a hose and nearly destroyed a brand new engine. Not to mention there was so much smoke from burning oil on the exhaust system that I thought my car was going to go up in flames.

A very stressful time.

Cheers, Nigel

[edwardb]

Which do you recommend?

If you have long tube headers, as already stated, you can remove the adapter and spin the filter directly onto the block. Recommended on forum in the past: Mobil 1 M1-113 Extended Performance Oil, Fram PH10060, Wix/Napa 57060, Napa 7060. Most agree to avoid the Fram. I've personally been using the Mobil 1 M1-113. Available at Walmart for a decent price. Highly recommended to get rid of the extra plumbing if not needed. It's only for space reasons.

[Mike.Bray]

Which do you recommend?

I'll take pretty much any filter over the Fram, they're just very bad.

Motorcraft and Wix are very good. I'm running a K&N KNN-HP-3001.

[Papa]

I never installed the remote filter kit on my 347. The filter screwed directly on with no interference. The only issue is the mess when changing the filter. I added one of these to help keep oil from running down the side of the block when changing the filter.

https://a.co/d/iDLwzny

It doesn't get the filter 100% level, but it does add space to let the oil drain away from the engine.

[rich grsc]

YEP, use the 90* adapter, no oil mess on the engine. I don't buy the whole "Fram is the worst filter in the world" thing, if it was half as bad as it's made out to be, the company would have been sued out business a long time ago.

[tnt_motorsports]

YEP, use the 90* adapter, no oil mess on the engine. I don't buy the whole "Fram is the worst filter in the world" thing, if it was half as bad as it's made out to be, the company would have been sued out business a long time ago.

They did just file for bankruptcy in October.

Not a Fram fan either. I've been a witness to a catastrophic engine failure due to a Fram filter failure. It was on a limited late model race race, so an expensive failure.

[Mike.Bray]

YEP, use the 90* adapter, no oil mess on the engine. I don't buy the whole "Fram is the worst filter in the world" thing, if it was half as bad as it's made out to be, the company would have been sued out business a long time ago.

Well, they are ranked above this one.

221363

But seriously, Fram makes three levels of filters:

The regular "orange can of death" or "extra guard" I think they call it.

The black "tough guard"

And the gold colored "ultra guard"

The orange one is the one to avoid. The tough guards are decent. The ultras are really high quality.


https://youtu.be/rqDjCzyYUOU?si=9taqNIMHIOOoqYBG

[rich grsc]

Mike, you & I think a like on many things but....whats an oil filter do? I farmed for almost 45 years, I used good filters, mostly factory JD stuff. The engines where under extreme use conditions, long hrs at high heat, heavy loads, dust so thick you couldn't see the edge of the field many times, clean oil meant long engine life. Compared to the engine in these car???, cruises with buddies to car shows or runs to lunch, and occasional hard run for fun on the track for a fund raiser, NOTHING extreme. These cars are babied, no extremest heat or cold for hrs & hrs, no dirt or dust, no lugging hard heavy loads around, then the oil gets changed before it's ever been stressed, at 1/2 it's useful life. You could run re-refined oil and no-name filters and the engine would still last many many miles. I don't do that, but I sure don't stress over finding the most expensive oil&filter either. I like the Ford filter, and what ever diesel oil I find that's 15/40. I drive mine as hard as is safe on the road. stack injection, with only bug screens for filters, at 20,000 miles, no oil burn or blow-by. A Fram filter gets bad ratings, but on a street car that has frequent oil changes, it'll work. JMO

I take everything I see or read on the internet with a grain of salt. I have over 65 years of experience around engines, maintaining them and rebuilding some along the way. I will take MY experience and first hand knowledge over much of what is on the internet, Things change and improve I know, but what I have used is still valuable, and works too.

[MB750]

They did just file for bankruptcy in October.

Not a Fram fan either. I've been a witness to a catastrophic engine failure due to a Fram filter failure. It was on a limited late model race race, so an expensive failure.

Technically, First Brands filed for Chapter 11, not Fram. They own Fram, but they also own:

Luber-finer (filters), TRICO and ANCO (wiper blades), Raybestos and Centric Parts (brakes), Autolite (spark plugs), and REESE and DRAW-TITE (towing and trailering products). It also has a number of other brands such as StopTech, CARTER, StrongArm, Carlson, CARDONE, and Michelin (licensed wiper blades)

I'm also curious, from an engineering perspective, how a Fram oil filter caused a complete engine failure? What specifically happened?

[MB750]

I don't think I've ever said this, but I agree with Rich.

Even though he's farmed for as long as I've been alive, I've never personally seen nor experienced a Fram issue, even with the base model orange ones. All I've ever heard is conjecture from the internet.

[Mike.Bray]

Issues I've seen with big orange are the anti-drain back valve coming unseated (once) and the cardboard endcaps coming unglued. I'm sticking with my K&N filter on my $25k Cobra engine, not that it's necessarily needed but it makes me sleep better. And at my age I need all the help I can get sleeping:)

[FLPBFoot]

I'm sticking with my K&N filter on my $25k Cobra engine, not that it's necessarily needed but it makes me sleep better.

Oil Filter Shootout - Engine Masters (Season 6, Episode 5) - K&N came out as one of the top. I too use them.

[tnt_motorsports]

Technically, First Brands filed for Chapter 11, not Fram. They own Fram, but they also own:

Luber-finer (filters), TRICO and ANCO (wiper blades), Raybestos and Centric Parts (brakes), Autolite (spark plugs), and REESE and DRAW-TITE (towing and trailering products). It also has a number of other brands such as StopTech, CARTER, StrongArm, Carlson, CARDONE, and Michelin (licensed wiper blades)

I'm also curious, from an engineering perspective, how a Fram oil filter caused a complete engine failure? What specifically happened?

It was an orange can filter. The internals of the filter failed and prevented the oil from flowing causing starvation. This was in the late 90's.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

A oil filter really Does Not FILTER oil all the time. To call filter "full flow" is really a misnomer. When the oil is quite thick (COLD) it goes around the filter media because it can't be pushed though the filter.
And as the filter get miles on it, effectivly the filtering media gets smaller becacuse the orfices in it are getting filled with the things you want it to filter out. as this keeps happening the Percentage of filter media available to work shrinks faster and faster. On engines with more short trips, and colder temps it will happen at a faster rate to the point that by about 2500 miles there is no more filtering to be done. All the oil bypasses all the time. Want proof, Just look at the rate that you oil turns dark. Takema sample every 250 miles. Not much happens at first but by 1700 miles it defintly starts get darker much quicker. So what i do to combat theis is to run the largest filter i can fit (Wix 51173/Motorcraft FL-299 on my jeep)and change it more often than i change the oil. On my vehicles i drive less often and i change the filter more. You will not realize how clean oil can be that has 10K on it, untill you have changed the oil filter every 2K miles.

[MB750]

It was an orange can filter. The internals of the filter failed and prevented the oil from flowing causing starvation. This was in the late 90's.

I guess if the filter failed in such a way that the perforated metal AND the bypass mechanism were both clogged than it's plausible for a filter to block enough flow to kill an engine, but at that point, wouldn't oil pressure lights be going crazy with low pressures way before taking an entire engine out?

[rich grsc]

It was an orange can filter. The internals of the filter failed and prevented the oil from flowing causing starvation. This was in the late 90's..

So basing your negative view on a 25+ year old event?

[Mike.Bray]

.

So basing your negative view on a 25+ year old event?

You based your view on your experience with steam powered tractors Rich:rolleyes:

Sorry, couldn't resist

[rich grsc]

Mike, mule power all the way. Till & fertilize in one pass.

[MB750]

Mike, mule power all the way. Till & fertilize in one pass.

Where does the filter mount on a mule?

[rich grsc]

You save money, no filter required