Jesse builds a pickup #329 - Front cowl and hood [Archive]

Blitzboy54

10-28-2025, 07:50 PM

Life comes at you fast

Hello! I am excited to kick off my build thread. A little background, I have built a couple of MK4's. I sold my first and my second build is road legal now. I am plan to drive it for another month until the weather makes me stop and will then take it for paint this winter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171293&d=1660933157

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220362&d=1760817073

The gentlemen I sold my first car to had an interest in building a 35 pickup. We have stayed in touch and an opportunity presented itself. I am building this truck for him. I am really excited to do this because it gives me an avenue to keep creating something new that I would not be able to do otherwise.

Truth be told I came very close to pulling the trigger on a 35 pickup before building another MK4 so I have a lot of ideas ready to go.

A few details about the build

LS3 6.2 (520hp)- planning for a complete blacked out engine, accessories and components.
TKX - 5 speed
Hood, no sides
BIG custom wheels - 18x12's on all 4 corners
Digital dash - This is plan A, but will need to mock some things up before fully committing.
Digital display - Carplay/Andriod Auto compatible, possibly a backup camera ect.
Custom exhaust - This will evolve as it comes together. Will likely gocart with the under tail exhaust and customize later.
Powder coated frame
Wilwoods front and rear
Custom center console - I am very excited to design something from scratch.
I like the idea of modern switches, latches and buttons. Lots of things left to decide like wipers, seats, harness vs 3 point belts.

I cleaned out the garage and prepped for the new arrival.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220817&d=1761695129

A familiar site, but never gets old.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220818&d=1761695129

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220820&d=1761695205

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220821&d=1761695255

We unloaded in about a half an hour. The backorder list isn't too bad but bigger than my last build for sure. Most of it is no big deal but one or 2 items that stand out are brakes, rear end and spindles.

Blitzboy54

10-28-2025, 07:57 PM

We all live in a yellow submarine

So just like living on a sub things will be tight as I work my way through the inventory. The plan is to consolidate early then spread out after my car is out of the garage. In the mean time it will be a little tight but I have done more with less.

First think that jumps off the page to me is the quality of the fiberglass. The parting lines are less aggressive, the body seems thicker and it seems to generally fit better. Some of that could be my imagination but the side panels have thick aluminum molded in. Everything feels very substantial.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220823&d=1761695334

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220824&d=1761695334

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220827&d=1761695411

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220828&d=1761695449

Lastly I couldn't call it a night without a quick test drive

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220829&d=1761695449

gbranham

10-28-2025, 09:00 PM

Pretty cool, Jesse. Does it seem familiar to the MkIV, or is it totally foreign? I would think there's a lot of similarities.

Greg

Blitzboy54

10-29-2025, 07:37 AM

Pretty cool, Jesse. Does it seem familiar to the MkIV, or is it totally foreign? I would think there's a lot of similarities.

Greg

Different size and shape but it’s fundamentally the same thing I think.

None zero chance that statement doesn’t come back to bite me at some point.

TXeverydayDad

10-29-2025, 07:40 AM

Super exciting Jesse! Looking forward to following along in your adventure!

Jeff Kleiner

10-29-2025, 07:46 AM

Cool! I thought about doing pickup before my Mk5 deal came around. Look forward to following along :)

Jeff

PNWTim

10-29-2025, 08:32 AM

Should be fun Jesse. I'm looking forward to following along.

PMD24

10-29-2025, 06:27 PM

Looking forward to following.

Pat

Blitzboy54

10-30-2025, 07:59 PM

Question, I did not receive any wheel hubs or associated hardware. The spindles are on back order but the inventory simply refers to them as "FRNT spindles'. Does anyone remember if box 21 had all the front wheel HW in it or was it simply the spindles?ut

I have a very small list of items that were missing and only one damaged part. The powder coat is chipping off the upper control arm pretty good. Sent a note to FFR about getting it swapped out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220884&d=1761872140

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220885&d=1761872140

As an aside now that inventory is done I have a relatively short list of back order items but a lot of them are strategic in being an issue sooner than later. One of the weirder ones is box 10. The truck aluminum. Isn't that stuff produced in house? Odd thing to be on back order.

I am sure most of it will show up sooner than later.

I am off the clock for the week. My wife and I are headed to TX. Our youngest daughter is graduating from AF boot camp! Can't wait to see her. Will dive into the build when we get back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220887&d=1761872589

UpstateCobraGuy

10-31-2025, 08:00 AM

Awesome! What great news! Looking forward to visiting :)

Namrups

10-31-2025, 09:13 AM

Awesome! What great news! Looking forward to visiting :)

What he said!!!

Scott

Guardm16

11-04-2025, 11:19 AM

Blitzboy54

11-08-2025, 06:10 PM

I got back after it this morning. I pulled the cab, incidentally this is so much easier than a roadster. You have to peal it a bit off the frame but it's quite easy with 2 people. Once clear I marked the aluminum for drilling. Easy peasy.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221227&d=1762634745

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221228&d=1762634774

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221229&d=1762634774

I started building up the front lower control arms per the manual. First thing of interest is the pivots. They require grease fittings but as far as I can tell they are not threaded. I thought at first they were threaded and maybe they got plugged up with powder coat but that is not the case.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221223&d=1762634668

If anyone is interested the thread is 7mm x 1.0. I tapped the hole accordingly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221224&d=1762634668

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221225&d=1762634668

Back order Jail

From there I figured I would continue building up the front suspension. First issue is I am missing the linkage adjuster. No biggie I will move on and install it when it arrives. They I realized I am missing the pivot sleeves for both the upper and lower control arms. I am also missing the spindles and brakes so no front suspension for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221226&d=1762634745

That moves me to the rear, I don't have the rear end in my possession yet (hoping this week) so that is out. I moved down the list and that takes me to the firewall, SWEET accept I only have half of it since the rest comes with the truck aluminum and guess what?

So, steering rack/column? Before I start putting that together I wanted to check with the board. Is there any reason I can't move forward with that?

Higgybulin

11-09-2025, 05:44 AM

I havent done a truck yet, but every MK that I have done usually gets the rack first because I am waiting on Canadian completion kit parts(don't ask!) I say carry on!!!
Higgy

Blitzboy54

11-09-2025, 09:59 AM

I havent done a truck yet, but every MK that I have done usually gets the rack first because I am waiting on Canadian completion kit parts(don't ask!) I say carry on!!!
Higgy

If you’re not moving forward you’re moving by backwards….. Aye aye

Full speed ahead.

Blitzboy54

11-10-2025, 12:30 PM

I started with the steering rack and steering column. The rack is straight forward. Couple issues, I don't have the lower half of the firewall and I am missing some steering rack linkages. The D to D in particular. I will probably try to mount some of the power steering module.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221305&d=1762740351

Moving on to the column I have the unpainted tilt version. Mocking it up I found something interesting. First is the mounting tabs near the front of the column is 48mm wide (this marries up to the column brackets), however the lower tabs are 58mm apart. This was strange. Instead of prying the tabs of the column out wide I am using a longer bolt and a spacer. If anyone has any experience with this I would like to hear about it. It's a little odd, perhaps it needs to bend out to clear the steering shaft? Will find out when I get the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221306&d=1762740351

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221304&d=1762740351

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221307&d=1762740403

I think the spacer is a better solution. I have the knobs installed and it operates very smoothly. I pulled it back out and will paint it satin black. Will likely powder coat the knobs the same.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221308&d=1762740403

Mocked up the upper firewall. It's very thick aluminum, the cutting process leaves heavy burs so be prepared to clean that up. Used a stone wheel and drill.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221309&d=1762740403

FFinisher

11-10-2025, 06:34 PM

Blitzboy54

11-11-2025, 08:52 AM

You will want to remove the spacer on the steering Column and pull the column to the Frame tab, You will need clearance for the brake pedal.

Are you ure you don't have the lower Firewall? It is normally packed with the "packaged aluminum" not with the large top piece

Thank you for the comment. I’ll ditch the spacer. Unfortunately the packaged aluminum is on the back order list. Thanks for confirming. I only have like 20 items but every one of them seems to create a road block. I sent a note to FFR for an update. This whole project might be on hold until I get some of these parts.

In the meantime I am painting the steering column. I should have the rear end this week so I can get that hung.

Blitzboy54

11-11-2025, 01:12 PM

Thank you for the comment. I’ll ditch the spacer. Unfortunately the packaged aluminum is on the back order list. Thanks for confirming. I only have like 20 items but every one of them seems to create a road block. I sent a note to FFR for an update. This whole project might be on hold until I get some of these parts.

In the meantime I am painting the steering column. I should have the rear end this week so I can get that hung.

As I was. I am missing th rod ends for the lower control arms. I’m actually completely dead in the water.

Bummer

Blitzboy54

11-16-2025, 01:02 PM

Back at it

Received a few packages from the Factory Five fairy!. Most of the random linkage parts, fuel lines and the rear brakes. This frees me up to get started on the front suspension, rear end, pedal box and sort of mock up the steering shaft. I am still missing the truck aluminum, spindles and fuel tank pan. Those will be the next obstacles but I'll bet I will see that stuff sooner than later.

just like the pivots the upper control arms require tapping to install the grease fittings. There is no call out for this in the manual which I find odd but just know it needs to be done on both the lower and upper control arms.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221613&d=1763299960

I torqued down everything accept the forward upper control arm per the instructions. The grill attaches to it later. I am a big fan of visual cue's so like I did on my Roadster whenever I torgue something for for good I use torque seal. Creates a hardened bead that allows you to know down the road if everything is still tight without having to put a wrench on it but also serves as a way for me to tell if it's been done or not as the build progresses.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221617&d=1763300006

The lower control arms are assembled dependent if you use the upper or lower set of mounting holes. If you choose the lower set of holes for a higher ride height you also have to put the steering rack lower. This requires some frame trimming. This rig is going to be a low rider so no mod required. You do have to pay attention to the orientation of the pivots on the lower control arm however. Per the manual I have them oriented for the lower stance

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221616&d=1763300006

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221618&d=1763300006

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221621&d=1763300056

Blitzboy54

11-16-2025, 01:13 PM

Part 2

Installed the steering rack again on the upper set of holes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221629&d=1763314119

Moving back I took the opportunity with the down time waiting for parts to paint the steering rack. I will leave the knobs un coated for now. I want to see how the interior shakes out before committing to a color.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221619&d=1763300056

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221620&d=1763300056

I have the rear shocks build and hung. I am now ready to install the rear end. It will be here this week. Also as an aside the worm has officially turned on the weather. I have made arrangements to store my car offsite for the winter. This will free up both of my bays. Looking forward to having the extra space to work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221628&d=1763314114

Guardm16

11-19-2025, 01:57 PM

Blitzboy54

11-19-2025, 07:17 PM

Looking good, you may want to consider the Upper mounting position on the rear shocks, not the hole on the chassis, but the black threaded sleeve on the shock itself can be moved to a higher position on the shock. This was the only way I could get a level stance. Before that, my truck looked like a dog taking a dump. Sorry for that visual. LOL

You can see the shock on the far left of this picture, the adjusting sleeve is in the higher position. There is a snap ring that can be moved up to secure the sleeve
221787

Thank you.

That is great advice, I will look into it. Question, was it obvious right away the back was too low or was it something that snuck up on you. Did you take any pictures when it was out of level? Low and level is 100% the goal on this build.

mkassab

11-20-2025, 08:17 AM

Guardm16

11-20-2025, 10:40 AM

Steve, in your pic I noticed you have your ebrake cable running through your lower control arm..... Aren't you concerned with the constant movement of the control arm causing it to cut/chaff through the ebrake cable? I do see you have a protectant sleeve on the cable.... but I still think it will wear through. Just a thought.

Mark

Yes, I do. Below was not an option for fear of snagging road debris, over the top created a very sharp curve and it rubbed on the top of the arm. So this was a compromise. One thing on the Wilwood e-brake that I am not happy with: the return spring coil is within 3/4 inch of the wheel well. It contacts the fiberglass arch all the time. It is rubbing a hole in the paint and fiberglass behind the wheel. I could raise the truck in the back end more to get some additional clearance, but that changes the stance to more of a raked look, not my favorite.

Guardm16

11-20-2025, 11:01 AM

Thank you.

That is great advice, I will look into it. Question, was it obvious right away the back was too low or was it something that snuck up on you. Did you take any pictures when it was out of level? Low and level is 100% the goal on this build.

I used the lower mounting point for the suspension in front, creating a slightly taller front end (we have huge speed bumps in our neighborhood) Right now it sits at 6.5 inches in front and she is level.
221824
Although it is at 6.5 inches, it looks very low because it is a long body compared to the 33 Hot Rod. But to answer your question. I found it the day I took it off the jack stands for the first time. I tried to run the spring adjuster all the way up until I ran out of threads. But still didn't like the stance. So, I found that the sleeve could be raised. This was an easy fix, I'm still not happy with it, I am adding length to the shock to get the level ride, but I am now at about 95% total length on the shock. So there is not much in the way of full extension. I am in the process of calculating a set of QA1 shocks to get a level ride and still have travel in both directions.

On a side note: the assembly manual shows different (taller) lower control arms.
221825
I have always wondered if I got the correct length of rear shocks. The manual says the rear should be 2.5 inches longer than the front, mine are about 1/2 inch longer.
221826

Blitzboy54

11-20-2025, 08:14 PM

Steering shaft and pedal box

Working around my missing parts I started mocking up the steering shaft. Going with the power steering it requires you to trim 2.5" piece off of one of the shorter shafts

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221847&d=1763685045

One thing that I have seen mentioned in other threads but something I also do is red loctite the screws that hold the pins in place on the couplers. As delivered they are not particularly tight and most of these cars vibrate quite a bit. Would be a real ugly failure mode if it was missed so I simply back all the screws out and glue them in. Cheap insurance

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221848&d=1763685045

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221850&d=1763685075

Moving on to the pedal box prep I checked the spacing of the spherical bearing in the bias adjuster. Spec is .20 -.25 total.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221849&d=1763685045

Installed without any drama.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221852&d=1763685315

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221851&d=1763685315

Blitzboy54

11-20-2025, 08:33 PM

Rear end prep

The big news is I was able to get my Cobra put away for the winter. I am storing it at a friends house until I take it for paint. Man what a difference! It's down right palatial in here now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221853&d=1763685428

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221854&d=1763685428

Started prepping the Moser 8.8 rear end purchased from Factory Five. I discovered something a little absurd. There are 2 issues as I see it first is whatever masking tape they use to cover up the vent hole is practically welded on. I've never seen anything like it. It's beautifully powder coated so I don't want to scrape too hard. I have been soaking it in goo gone for hours lol.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221855&d=1763685428

The bigger thing I find weird is it comes dry. This is not a problem, but what I find kind of ridiculous is they not only put the gasket on they used sealant and then torqued. There is no fill port, why on earth would you fully seal it then put a big pink tag that says it's empty. It's a little thing but you have to split the cover off then scrape everyting on your brand new rear end clean. Just really odd, seems like send along the gasket or loosely set it?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221856&d=1763685471

I got it cleaned up, vacuumed out the housing and ordered a new gasket. I am soaking the tape overnight

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221857&d=1763685471

danmas

11-21-2025, 02:43 AM

The rear end thing is wild. Why ship it dry? If it is dry, why assemble with seal? Crazy. Fun watching your new build…

mkassab

11-21-2025, 08:09 AM

Blitz.... I don't understand your find on the diff with no fill??? See below my 8.8 diff I bought with my kit.... it clearly has a fill plug on the front right side just above the mid level. Your diff doesn't have this???

If it doesn't (which I'd be very surprised), I'd put a new cover that has both a fill and drain plug.

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221871&d=1763730395

Guardm16

11-21-2025, 08:49 AM

I was thinking the same thing

Blitzboy54

11-21-2025, 09:09 AM

I just dug up Paul's build and he literally mentions the plug. I guess this makes me feel better? I searched all over this because it seemed so dumb, read the instructions but they were generally vague on the subject other than what to put in it. I searched it pretty thoroughly but couldn't find anything. There is a good chance I'm stupid. There is a small chance something is got missed on my diff. I'll dig into it tonight and get to the bottom of it.

PNWTim

11-21-2025, 09:38 AM

My Moser 12 bolt for my Camaro definitely came with a fill plug. Different rear end but Moser has been doing this for a long time, I can't imagine they would seal up a rear end with no way to fill it. But who knows? Stranger things have happened.

Jeff Kleiner

11-21-2025, 10:00 AM

JohnnyDeere

11-21-2025, 12:29 PM

Blitzboy54

11-21-2025, 12:36 PM

Ha! I am almost positive you got your truck dropped off after my car was delivered. I am up in Maine and is was delivered in OCT, that empty pallet was mine and I saw your truck sitting right where it is in the truck. Cool!

You definitely did. He said he was coming from Maine. Every build I've done had a delivery buddy.

Welcome aboard

Blitzboy54

11-21-2025, 03:59 PM

Well, mystery solved. It does have a drain. I have 2 reasons for missing this

1. My first build had a rebuilt 8.8 rear end and as you can see no such drain exists so I must have just started assuming I guess.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144053&d=1615349338

2. I am at times a bit of an idiot.

To quote a phrase borrowed by Abraham Lincoln "Tis better to be silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt"

Onward and upward

Blitzboy54

11-22-2025, 08:38 PM

Moving on with the rear end now filled and re sealed (doh). One interesting tidbit is the kit comes with the drive shaft adapter (same as the IRS pumpkin).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221974&d=1763857072

The rear end I got from Moser has the fox body pinion. I dug into some other builds and see that previously they shipped them with the S197 pinion. I am curious if this will have an impact on driveshaft length.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221975&d=1763857072

A little trick for installing suspension parts that maybe don't quite fit because the tabs are too tight. My friend Scott gave me this to use, it's simple and genius and works like a charm. Maybe this is common knowledge but I had no idea until now and it has made my life a lot easier.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221964&d=1763857026

Moving forward I got everything assembled and prepped on this kick a** cart my buddy built.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221996&d=1763860716

The rear shocks come with .32 spacers for both the truck frame and the lower control arms. Problem is they recently redesigned the lower control arms. They are now a lot narrower than they used to be.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221977&d=1763857123

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221976&d=1763857072

There is now a .200 difference, instead of contacting FFR and waiting for new spacers seemed easier just to grind .100 off of the four lower ones.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221978&d=1763857123

Blitzboy54

11-24-2025, 10:10 AM

Hanging the rear end is pretty straight forward, other than the lower control arms being a different width. I was hoping to get it completely hung but it turns out I am missing a rod end. It was in the box list as missing but not the POL. I sent them an email and will wait for it to show up.

As an aside being my 3rd build I am having a hard time not getting frustrated with the back order system. A few days ago there was an article about how the warehouse is undergoing a re org and parts are delayed. They did this already. My first build was in Covid jail, nothing to be done. 2nd one was pretty smooth. 3rd I am struggling because I am missing so many key parts. Also you are "delivering" kits in 6 weeks but not really if it takes another 4-6 weeks to get me the parts. I am desperately trying to keep a good attitude but if you can't get me parts I think you have an obligation to give me an ETA. Emails are going 3 to 4 days without replies. I am going to call today..... end rant

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221979&d=1763857123

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222054&d=1763995972

Now that I am kind of stuck again (I think I might start goofing around with the doors, but I am missing hinges), I was thinking about lighting and found the holes in the corner bracing. I saw another builder put LED's in there. I just happen to have some on hand and sure enough they fit nice. I am going to route the wires through the frame. It think this will make real functional dome lights. I modified a washer since the rubber mount was meant for a thicker hole. Ground a little away to clear the welds. I will powder coat the washer when I do a batch of brackets and such.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221970&d=1763857026

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221969&d=1763857026

Jeff Kleiner

11-24-2025, 12:00 PM

Emails are going 3 to 4 days without replies. I am going to call today..... end rant

Not making excuses, just an FYI---two weeks ago two of the tech support guys were at SEMA and then last week two of the tech support team were at the Build School.

Jeff

Blitzboy54

11-25-2025, 10:29 AM

Not making excuses, just an FYI---two weeks ago two of the tech support guys were at SEMA and then last week two of the tech support team were at the Build School.

Jeff

Thank Jeff,

I got a hold of them today. They were very helpful. Gave me some solid dates I can work around. I told them that my front line customer service experience has always been top notch. This experience was no different. Must be a fun place to work.

Guardm16

11-25-2025, 11:16 AM

"The rear end I got from Moser has the fox body pinion. I dug into some other builds and see that previously they shipped them with the S197 pinion. I am curious if this will have an impact on driveshaft length."
This depends on a few things, such as the trans you are running and the yoke length etc. I had the same concern, I sent pictures and measurements to tech. They stated the length was within specs.

"There is now a .200 difference, instead of contacting FFR and waiting for new spacers seemed easier just to grind .100 off of the four lower ones."
This is the fix that most people find.

Just curious, what is the extended full length of your rear shocks?

KZGUNS

11-25-2025, 12:41 PM

Thank Jeff,

I got a hold of them today. They were very helpful. Gave me some solid dates I can work around. I told them that my front line customer service experience has always been top notch. This experience was no different. Must be a fun place to work.

I'm waiting on spindles and brakes also. How far out did they say they were? I would assume they are waiting on a sizable order.

THUNDERSTRUCK

11-26-2025, 12:19 AM

Jesse
Can you post dimensions of your frame Dolly seams simple and looks like it works well. Is it 4x4s

Blitzboy54

11-26-2025, 09:05 AM

Yeah will do.

It's two 48" 4x4's. I will measure the gap when I get home. It was my MK4 dolly, I had four pieces of 4x4 mounted for the 4" tubes. I simply removed those and got lucky that the rest worked so well with the truck frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203078&d=1724531706

***Update***

The gap is 42”. Total length is 48”. It’s essentially 48x48 in total.

Blitzboy54

11-29-2025, 06:57 PM

The FFR fairy made a visit. I now have everything I need for the foreseeable future except spindles. I now have plenty to do.

Started by finishing up the rear end with the panhard bar

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222212&d=1764454322

I also took the opportunity to set and drill the underside aluminum. I spent a lot of time trying to find just the right spot so the center would touch evenly while not over or under lapping elsewhere. I did have to trim a couple mm's from one edge to keep it flush with the frame but mostly it fit out of the box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222209&d=1764454195

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222210&d=1764454195

Moving on to the firewall. I really struggled to figure out how to get the lower pieces to set in there. I read Paul's post on how to do it and still struggled until I realized the bottom lip that tips into the footbox siits just in front of the frame not on top of it. Once I got it one and off it seemed silly that I struggled at all. The thick aluminum comes from FFR with heavy almost razor like burrs. The edges need a lot of cleaning up even before your first test fit.

I did get set and drilled. I used 1/8 drill bit for now. I actually only own 1/8 cleco's. I was about to buy 3/16 when I decided that I would keep it 1/8 until powder coated. I have to re drill all the holes anyhow to clean them up, I mind as well hit it with the 3/16 then. I did drill 2 holes I don't like how they look. I will fill those in with a TIG before coating. Other than that I really like the fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222213&d=1764454322

This brings me to the power steering module. If you follow the mounting instructions there is really no way to make the electrical connections without extending the wires.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222218&d=1764455655

I also will have a lot going on back there and want to keep it clear. I am thinking this for now. I saw this was done on another build by bending the bracket. Anyone have any interference issues by placing it here?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222215&d=1764454367

Blitzboy54

11-30-2025, 03:59 PM

Steering Shaft

With the firewall up I mocked up the rest of the steering shaft. The Roadster manual comes with instructions to index the shaft so that the shaft can't slip. I find it odd the truck does not have the same instructions, considering the sheer number of joints. On my first roadster I had a little bind and it is incredibly dangerous. Once I had the whole assembly in place I pulled the set screws one at a time, marked and drilled them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222226&d=1764532692

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222228&d=1764532692

I completed the mock up with every shaft end indexed. Its tight but I have not used loctite on the set screws yet as this has to come apart a couple more times before going in for good. I also had to trim the "twisted" shaft more than the instructions called for. It says to take .375 from one end but I was still way too long. I ended up taking .375 from both ends. I had to trim the roadster shaft as well, your mileage may vary.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222229&d=1764532748

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222230&d=1764532748

Reservoirs

For the brake and clutch reservoirs I used the mounting bracket as a template from the inside. I wanted to mount to the firewall without going through the frame. This seemed the best spot while giving me max adjustability. I also wanted it level to the firewall rivets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222231&d=1764532748

This truck will have a hood but I am well clear of that from this position.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222232&d=1764532805

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222233&d=1764532805

peterh226

12-03-2025, 10:01 AM

I had the same question on those rear spacers. Played around and ground down a bit and it’s fine. Not a critical dimension anyway..

Blitzboy54

12-04-2025, 12:10 PM

Front Brake lines

Definitely more challenging than the Roadster. Took quite a bit more time and I had to remove the steering shaft, power steering motor and firewall. But so far so good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222386&d=1764811235

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222387&d=1764811235

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222388&d=1764811235

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222389&d=1764811276

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222392&d=1764811451

I ran into a conflict with the manual concerning the instructions on running the brake lines. They have you place (but not install) the front corner aluminum. This created a lot of conflict for me as I wasn't ready to put that piece in and there didn't seem to be any way to install it properly later with the brake lines int the way. So I followed the advice given by one of the hot rod builders and dog legged them out of the way and modified the filler piece.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222390&d=1764811276

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222391&d=1764811276

Blitzboy54

12-06-2025, 06:01 PM

Rear Brake lines

Moving on to the rear FFR provides a cut out that I can only assume is for the rear brake line in the bracket that would hold the running board (if I had one). I popped in the rear aluminum to ensure clearance. All pretty straight forward. The most complicated bit is making a 60" line fit into a 50" space, but much easier to route than the front.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222514&d=1765056694

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222516&d=1765056694

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222515&d=1765056694

I realized when attempting to connect the flex lines that the brakes where rearward facing. This needed to be reverse. Unfortunately I had to take them back off and change the brackets from the let to right side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222520&d=1765056882

Wheel fitment... In the process of ordering custom wheels. In terms of offsets and wheel fitment I would like to get it just right. I found this tool from Speedway. It allows you to test fit a wheel of just about any diameter and width up to 12 inches. You can set any offset/backspace for fitment. This will be an open wheeler so for the rear I am just looking at body clearance but if I had fenders that could be accounted for as well. I really have it so I can get the correct fitment in the fronts but I don't have spindles yet. I did test it out on the rear and you can see it in action. This is currently setup for 19x12 with a 0mm offset.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222517&d=1765056882

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222518&d=1765056882

Moving on to the firewall I have the my MC reservoir hose routing sorted as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222519&d=1765056882

Blitzboy54

12-06-2025, 06:28 PM

Fire breathing Dragon has arrived

In other news the Blueprint Fairy made a delivery.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222536&d=1765063449

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222538&d=1765063449

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222539&d=1765063449

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222537&d=1765063449

Seems to have plenty of power.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222530&d=1765059362

Also comes with this fun little warning.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222531&d=1765059362

Guardm16

12-09-2025, 11:16 AM

Congrats on the Blue Print Fairy arrival. a couple of things to take into consideration:

1) That offset tool looks great. Drop a plumb line or level down from the "Bed side mounting tab/hole just above the rear brakes. this is where the bed mounts, keep in mind the wheel opening arch has a bulge of about 3/4 inch that sticks farther out, so your wheel/tire- body interference is closest at this point. Obviously as the suspension moves up and down there is a arc moving towards the body if only one side lifts, (diagonally going over a speed bump for instance) this will draw the wheel even closer to the body side of the bed.

2) Please check the measurements of the serpentine belt tensioner. Mine was a SBF but the tensioner was in contact with the chassis diagonal brace at the front corner of the engine bay.
222631

Guardm16

12-09-2025, 11:20 AM

Blitzboy54

12-09-2025, 01:31 PM

Guardm16

12-09-2025, 03:23 PM

That is super interesting about the belt tensioner. I appreciate the heads up. It's mildly concerning they would not know that was a problem seeing as Blue print makes these engines specifically for FFR.

I plan to do a proper wheel fitment once the front spindles arrive. I will set the sides at that time for clearance. The idea is to cheat as close as possible as you can adjust with a spacer if need be. Much tougher to go the other way.

Thanks for the pics!! Really helpful stuff.

I don't think it is a blueprint issue, but CVF who make the accessory drive. They also make a model of drive without the tensioner, but has adjustable brackets for the A/C and Alternator.

I bought 2009 mustang wheels thinking they would fit (thoughts of mustang donor) Turns out they are too close to the bed of the truck, so I had to use a spacer. The front was also too narrow looking. There is no clearance issue, just what looks good. I added spacers there as well. I am not out at the track so I was not too worried about stress. I will say that I did have a Ford F250 with 6 inch lift. that truck had 2 inch spacers on it when I got it, and I beet the hell out of it off road rock crawling.

Blitzboy54

12-13-2025, 06:01 PM

Firewall mock up

Lots of updates, I've been working on getting the firewall set. I have read through the build manual several times to see where things will ultimately end up. I was very close to setting the overflow tank when I suddenly realized I had not considered the heater/AC unit. That is a totally different set of instructions you need to download from FFR. I then spent the next couple of days re thinking my original plan. I am not entirely sold on where they have the hoses routed.

One of the early steps in the install is attach the trinary switch to the dryer. I need everything connected so I can see how it looks. I initally ran into a problem as the dryer seems to have a port but it's powder coated over and may not actually be removable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222737&d=1765492763

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222738&d=1765492763

I didn't want to assume, put force on it and break it. I sent a note to FFR but then looked up the PN on the label. This unit is sold at speedway and in says in the description that those are in fact ports so I put a wrench on it and removed the plug. The powder coat cracked and split around the port but its invisible behind the switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222862&d=1765664781

I did in fact purchase some 3/16 cleco's and drilled all the 1/8 holes out. I am putting the AC lines lower near the frame with the drier underneath (hopefully out of the way) and kept the heater lines along the edge. I think this will give me the cleanest look. I flirted with running hoses out of the lower firewall (I have seen several builds doing this) but at the end of the day I didn't want any of them running into the foot box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222853&d=1765662173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222854&d=1765662173

The heater AC mounts cleanly enough. The instructions are straight forward.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222855&d=1765662173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222851&d=1765662173

Blitzboy54

12-13-2025, 06:35 PM

Cockpit Aluminum

The engine and engine bay will be blacked out for the most part. I can't powder coat the power steering motor or the rack. I am instead using a product called Spray Max 2k in "hot rod satin black". It has hardener that before use you punch a valve at the bottom of the can. This mixes with the paint and gives you 24ish hours to use. I am very pleased with how it came out. I will also be using it on the steering shaft when the time comes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222852&d=1765662173

I spent the better part of the day drilling the cockpit aluminum. I have both sides of the floor complete. Will need to decide if any of it will get coated. Aside from partially drilling into my left index finger this all went without any real fanfare.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222849&d=1765662173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222848&d=1765662173

Gas tank

Since I am still waiting for spindles I am not ready to install the engine so I figured it was a good time to put the tank in. I am using a hanger from Quantum Fuel. This is my 3rd go round with this arrangement. It has 3/8 delivery and return lines with either 6an or 8an (can be ordered with either) fittings attached. I know folks like the Pro-M but last I checked its $400 for just the hanger. I purchased the Quantum unit for $270 and it includes a 400lpm Walbro pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222850&d=1765662173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222845&d=1765662173

You do have to notch the fuel pump port to clear the thicker return line just like the Pro-M. I forgot to take a picture before I installed it but I used tin snips to make 2 small cuts then used pliers to work it back and forth until it broke free. Easy peasy.

I put in the vent and sending unit. The instructions call for the filler neck but I forgot to order the Ford seal. The Dorman part that comes with the kit is a notorious leaker so I put on on order and hung the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222846&d=1765662173

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222847&d=1765662173

460.465USMC

12-19-2025, 05:40 PM

The heater AC mounts cleanly enough. The instructions are straight forward.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222855&d=1765662173

Hey Jesse! Just found your truck build thread. This is cool. It will be fun to follow along.

On the HVAC unit, I read on the forum that at least for the Coupe application it's recommended to silicone around the gaps in the plastic housing where you can see daylight. Idea being to maximize the amount of airflow across the coils. Especially helpful for cooling operation, per forum wisdom. Passing along in case you weren't aware.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Blitzboy54

12-20-2025, 12:41 PM

Hey Jesse! Just found your truck build thread. This is cool. It will be fun to follow along.

On the HVAC unit, I read on the forum that at least for the Coupe application it's recommended to silicone around the gaps in the plastic housing where you can see daylight. Idea being to maximize the amount of airflow across the coils. Especially helpful for cooling operation, per forum wisdom. Passing along in case you weren't aware.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Chris, Merry Christmas to you and yours as well.

I did see something about that in the manual. It was light on specifics, it was on my list of things to get to the bottom of. I need to take it back out at some point and figured I could do it before putting it back in. Thank you for the heads up.

Blitzboy54

12-20-2025, 05:20 PM

Fuel integration

I permanently installed the lower aluminum. I need to run my 3/8 fuel line along it so it needed to go in. I had flirted with coating it but there really is no reason to do it. This would be a lot easier with a lift. At the very least I could have raised the frame up higher on the jack stands but I opted to be lazy and muscle through as is. Pro tip if you do that same as me, much easier to silicon the panel then rivet in place vs putting on the frame like most panels. I left the lines on because its sandwiched between 2 layers with the foam. You will never see them again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223116&d=1766252846

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223117&d=1766252846

The manual calls for a supply and return line with the regulator in the engine bay. I am planning on putting the regulator by the tank with a short return line. Therefore only needing a single delivery line. My feeling is this is a cleaner look IMO.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223119&d=1766252894

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223124&d=1766253367

I ran the line into the engine bay through the frame support hole. I was able to clean up the look with a grommet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223125&d=1766253367

Moving on to the tank vent I am repeating what I did on my last built. This idea was shamefully stolen from fellow Roadster builder Chad. Purchased an inexpensive 100 micron filter, removed the guts and added a hose barb to one end. Makes for a clean look.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223118&d=1766252846

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223121&d=1766253141

Blitzboy54

12-20-2025, 05:41 PM

E-Stopp

This turned out to be a much bigger project than I assumed. First is this an enormous unit. There are a couple natural spots you can put it on the roadster but I really struggled to find a home that didn't require me to modify the frame. After puttering around with it for a couple days I ultimately landed on this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223120&d=1766252894

While the frame lines up for 4 points of contact it still has some challenges. I decided on 1/4 20 nutcerts. Another pro tip is if you decide to install the E-Stopp the same way as I did best to do it before the fuel tank goes in. Getting all the holes drilled turned out to be a challenge. Had to use a 90 angle adapter quite a bit as a well as bit extensions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223123&d=1766253141

I also found I wanted to make an adjustment to the parking brake. Turns out this is adjustable by 360 deg. You remove the 1/2" bolt out of the back, pull off the spring and the hex nut. Then gently work the edges until the arm comes off the spline.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223122&d=1766253141

Truth be told I made way too big an adjustment not considering how the truck sides might interfere so I had to go back and fix it.

The 1.5" inch tube is much taller from underneath than the 1/2" one so I used spaces to make up the difference. It worked pretty well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223134&d=1766267291

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223135&d=1766267291

I tested the slack with the rear shocks fully extended and compressed before securing the lines with clamps. All in all it cam out pretty clean

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223136&d=1766267291

I had no idea the E=Stopp comes with an audible alarm. I have seen these installed and have never read it mentioned. I will definitely be disconnecting the backup beep.

https://youtu.be/oMGpnC6KI1M?si=93BgVADXovOCNxlE

gbranham

12-20-2025, 06:46 PM

Does Wilwood not offer an electric park brake for the rear brakes you're running? Its such a more compact, simpler solution than e-stopp. And no cables is a huge plus.

Greg

Blitzboy54

12-20-2025, 09:06 PM

Does Wilwood not offer an electric park brake for the rear brakes you're running? Its such a more compact, simpler solution than e-stopp. And no cables is a huge plus.

Greg

They offer a universal brake, I would have needed to contact them to see what brackets I would have needed. The real issue is it’s more than double the price.

Completely agree on how clean it is.

Blitzboy54

12-24-2025, 01:53 PM

Flexible Fuel Lines and Regulator

With the black them of the engine bay I chose black braided PTFE lines and black fittings. I used 3/8 compression to 6AN fittings at the end of the SS hard line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223237&d=1766599415

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223232&d=1766599164

I found the best spot for the regulator for me was pointing down on the 1.5" tube. Can lift the truck and see it from underneath. This also is a great place to give a short return. I have a 10 micron filter inline

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223231&d=1766599164

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223238&d=1766599415

Foam Core

Moving on to the foam core I test fit all the pieces. Like most items in the kit they are slightly oversized. I used a straight edge and and a razor and was able to take just enough off to make everything snug.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223240&d=1766601006

I used the Marine adhesive per the instructions. Took 2 tubes for the bottom. I will say this, the 3M 5200 gives off the closest thing to a "new car smell" I have ever seen. It's only a frame but it smells like a brand new Lexus. Lol

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223235&d=1766599346

The pieces are glued in from underneath. I will not put the top on until the firewall is coated. So I will stop here for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223236&d=1766599346

Blitzboy54

01-02-2026, 03:47 PM

The Spindle Fairy arrived

I got the tracking number email. Still have a couple rando missing items but now fully able to keep working without waiting on the mother ship. Continue to use torque seal to ensure the fittings are torqued.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223521&d=1767382395

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223522&d=1767382395

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223523&d=1767382395

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223524&d=1767382500

I do have to break some of this back down. I am dropping my first batch of parts off to the powder coater this weekend and I have decided to add the lower A arm adjustment sleeve to that batch. With spindles of course comes brakes. I am also able to put my wheel fitment tool on and check for clearance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223525&d=1767382500

The planned wheel size is 19x12 with a 0 offset. This will create a real deep dish look. I have the tool set for both 0 offset and -25mm (will push the wheel out 1"). Need to decide whether to offset the fronts right away or leave at 0 and potentially add a spacer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223529&d=1767382791

Blitzboy54

01-02-2026, 04:05 PM

PT 2

Here is the full turn at 0 offset. Outer is not an issue

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223526&d=1767382500

The inner at 0 is potentially an issue. Obvious full turn interference

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223527&d=1767382755

Here at the -25mm (pushing the wheel out 1") it just clears.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223528&d=1767382755

The total width of the rear from center is 38", the total width at the front from center is 35" at 0 offset and 36" at -25mm. Still some things to figure out before pulling the trigger on the wheel order. I will post more about that when it's official but I am using a custom wheel company that will make virtually anything at any size for a fixed price.

Moving on I have been trying to figure out what to do with the power steering module. Now that I know how the wires need to be routed I am 1000% sure you can't put it where they recommend without making the power and control cables longer. I really don't want to re work the harness unless I need so I have been thinking about alternatives. It will be busy back there so this is ultimately what I came up with.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223530&d=1767382791

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223532&d=1767382822

I test fit the fuse panel with the harness attached and everything seems to clear just fine. I still need to make a pedal mount but it should all fit just fine but I may need to move the fuse panel away from the pedal box at some point. Will need to make a bracket of some kind if I do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223531&d=1767382822

KZGUNS

01-06-2026, 08:51 AM

Lookin good! I'm hoping my spindles and hubs ship soon!! I still need those, wire harness and A/C box.

Guardm16

01-08-2026, 04:05 PM

Your Power Steering control module looks good there, I set mine on the left side of the pedal box. The exact opposite of yours. Remember, you have about 1 inch above the firewall metal before you contact the cowl. No real need to lay it over on a 45.

Blitzboy54

01-13-2026, 08:21 PM

Dome light

I mounted some round LED's up in the frame supports. I saw one of the other truck builders do it and thought it was a great idea. Bonus was I already had some round LED's on hand. It seemed the best way to hide the wires was in the frame. I drilled a 5/16 hole on both ends and ran a grommet clean it up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223902&d=1768349006

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223901&d=1768349006

I ran my power supply to them to test them out. I plan to tie them into the courtesy circuit of the headlight switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223903&d=1768349006

Since I am in a wiring mood I routed and cleaned up the power steering wiring along the frame. A little sheathing to clean it up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223899&d=1768348951

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223898&d=1768348951

Pedal PT 1

We broke the engine down to get it painted. A little fun fact I didn't see coming is Blueprint uses the Holley Terminator on the LS. I assumed it would be GM's version of the control pack. I have experience with the Sniper and while easy to install wasn't all that awesome but I have heard really good things about the Terminator. It is also all black so it will fit with the engine theme.

I picked up the DBW pedal that came with it so I could mock it up. It is designed to mount to the firewall but I would have to walk it up a couple inches if I did that. I again dug into the forum wisdom and decided to follow Paul's lead and mount it to the side of the pedal box. I picked up some sheet steel but after playing around a bit found that if slightly modified the existing mount worked perfectly. You cut the 3 back tabs off and revers it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223904&d=1768349077

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223900&d=1768348951

Blitzboy54

01-13-2026, 08:42 PM

Pedal PT 2

I drilled 3 holes in the side of the pedal box mount and used some thick washers to create enough space between the DBW and the mount. The spacing is really nice. I am pleasantly surprised at how much room there is between pedals. So much better than the Roadster.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223908&d=1768352019

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223914&d=1768353846

I also made a spacer with a piece of 3/8 stainless tubing and was able to move the fuse box over 1.5 inches to clear the DBW. This seemed like the best solution without creating an entirely new mounting system.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223910&d=1768352019

Wheels

One of the more fun parts of the early planning was wheels. I want a very specific look. After shopping around for available wheels it was hard to find just the right thing. Bolt pattern, hub bore and spacing were all limiting factors. I found a company called KRNC Forged. A friend of mine used them for his truck and he really like them. They will make virtually any wheel design you want at any size. These are currently being made.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223915&d=1768354294

They are a 2 piece design 19x12 with a 0 offset with an SN95 bolt pattern and bore. Very affordable considering they are full custom at $700 a wheel.

I have the tires. I can't test mount the fronts yet as the adjustment sleeves on the lower control arms are at the powder coater but I can set the rears and they look so good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223911&d=1768352586

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223907&d=1768351965

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223906&d=1768351965

mkassab

01-14-2026, 06:17 AM

Blitzboy54

01-14-2026, 08:05 AM

The pictures looks like the gas pedal is pretty close to the trans tunnel?? Once you add sound / heat proofing and carpet, it may rub? If it does, a quick fix would be to remove some of the pedal.... and because the trans tunnel get wider as you depress the pedal.... something to consider.

Mark

Thanks, I considered it. My plan is 2 fold, the insulation will go on the inside (plan to use a spray on product) and if I need to move the pedal I will modify the arm. I can move it close to an inch that way if I need to.

Really appreciate you looking out!

Namrups

01-14-2026, 09:17 AM

The forcast is for single digits in the near future! I have two double head 30 lb propane heaters to help keep you warm if your interested. Let me know.

Scott

Blitzboy54

01-18-2026, 02:46 PM

The forcast is for single digits in the near future! I have two double head 30 lb propane heaters to help keep you warm if your interested. Let me know.

Scott

Thanks Scott, I appreciate the offer. I will reach out if I need it.

Blitzboy54

01-18-2026, 03:11 PM

Parts back from Powder Coat!

Got my first batch of parts back from PC and I have to say I am really pleased. The engine and engine bay is largely black with accents that will match the red in the wheels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224186&d=1768764565

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224187&d=1768764565

Since my lower control arm adjustment sleeves came back I was able to test fit the front tire as well. Looks good and looks like it should just clear. I will probably put in a rack limiter if its real close.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224188&d=1768764565

With the firewall back in I permanently re mounted the steering shaft. I was concerned that if I painted it off the car it would be difficult to re fit it together without a bunch of issues so I decided to mask off and paint it in place. Repurposed FFR parts packing paper to the rescue.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224189&d=1768764699

I think it came out pretty clean.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224190&d=1768764699

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224191&d=1768764745

I spent the rest of my times spreading peanut butter consistent 3M 5200 all over the floor pan and riveting (so much riveting).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224192&d=1768764745

PNWTim

01-19-2026, 11:39 AM

Just caught up with your build thread. You're doing good work and it's all coming together. Many years ago I worked at a wooden boat restoration shop and we used 3M 5200 by the case. If you set a tube on a heater vent in your house for an our or so before using it lowers the viscosity by about 50% and makes it a lot easier to use. Otherwise, like you said, uncooperative peanut butter at best. Keep up the good work.

Blitzboy54

01-19-2026, 07:26 PM

Blitzboy54

01-26-2026, 06:25 PM

Making a roller

I got ahold of some temp mustang wheels. The tires are in tough shape but plenty good for my needs right now. I inflated all four and found one was completely flat in the morning. On closer inspection I found a nail embedded. So I purchased a cheap tire repair kit and fixed it. I re inflated and again found it flat in the morning. One soapy water test later showed its leaking from the bead along the outside. I could take it to a shop and have it re mounted but I am in no mood to purchase a new tire if it doesn't survive so what to do? I decided to purchase a can of fix a flat. Reading the instructions it says to inflate the contents of the can then drive for 2 miles. This makes sense but I am in a pickle. I need it to hold air and have a long time before I can drive it. So I did this for 15 minutes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224751&d=1769466191

My arm was tired but it worked. Tire holds air just fine now. She's lookin like a roller

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224753&d=1769466191

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224752&d=1769466191

Heat and AC

Moving on to the heat and AC the instructions call for the mixer valve to be attached to the engine. I had the bracket powder coated but don't really like the look. I decided to try and find a way to mount it inside the cockpit instead. This is what I came up with. It's tucked up underneath. Close enough to the transmission tunnel to I believe not get in the way of the footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224755&d=1769466272

I borrowed my friend Scott's AC crimp tool and complete the inner AC connections.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224754&d=1769466272

Everything clears and fits in the space nicely.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224756&d=1769466329

The plan was to wrap the engine lines back around but there really isn't a way to do it without creating a kink. I ordered a couple of 90 fittings to take the bend out of it and will complete that part when they arrive.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224757&d=1769466329

dwillouby

01-26-2026, 06:50 PM

Hello, following your build and was wondering what size the tires are? Cant make it out in the picture. Would like them for my build as well.

Thanks
David Willouby

Blitzboy54

01-26-2026, 07:39 PM

Hello, following your build and was wondering what size the tires are? Cant make it out in the picture. Would like them for my build as well.

Thanks
David Willouby

Hi David,

I assume you are talking about the big ones. They are Falken Aznenis 315/30ZR19

dwillouby

01-27-2026, 03:47 PM

Yes sir, thanks very much.

David

Blitzboy54

02-01-2026, 03:03 PM

Completed the Heater/AC plumbing

Nothing real ground breaking here. I thought I would bend the incoming heater lines but in order to get them 180 deg without kinking I needed to make the loop too big. my solution was simply to use 5/8 elbows.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224947&d=1769974253

The last element that needed to be addressed is the condensation drain. Again brass elbows to the rescue. I didn't want to cut a hole in the floor so I jogged everything out the side. The carpet will cover it up and it's tucked away in an area you just won't see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224948&d=1769974253

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224949&d=1769974253

Cleaned up the dome light wiring and changed it over to red. Give everything a saucier look

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224951&d=1769974310

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224950&d=1769974310

When I planned this build in my mind I used my Roadster experience as a template for scheduling various parts of the build. The thing I have learned is they are not the same. The engine goes in a LOT earlier than a Roadster. I thought about skipping ahead to the wiring but doesn't seem like a good idea. The engine is getting painted (it's going to be very black), in keeping with that theme I painted/powder coated the mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224953&d=1769974378

To be honest having less to do hasn't been the end of the world because it has been so incredibly cold, but I don't sit still very well. I am going to pivot until I get the engine and start working on the doors. They seem pretty complicated and looks like I could easily spend a couple weeks getting them sorted so I have jumped ahead a few chapters in the manual. I started cutting the female hinges and will keep working on this for a while.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224952&d=1769974378

tnt_motorsports

02-01-2026, 04:57 PM

Jessie, things are coming along very nicely. Just throwing it out there on your elbow design. Any appetite to use a copper 180? This would eliminate a couple leak paths.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/pipe-fittings/copper-pipe-tubing-fittings/nibco-reg-sweat-lead-free-copper-180-degree-elbow/9292150/p-1444449109332-c-8565.htm

Guardm16

02-01-2026, 05:01 PM

[/QUOTE]
I started cutting the female hinges and will keep working on this for a while.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224952&d=1769974378[/QUOTE]

have a few extra taps on hand and lots of cutting oil and patience. I broke a few and fount that a center punch breaks out the old broken tap very easily.

Blitzboy54

02-02-2026, 12:42 PM

My concern on the copper hoop is there isn't an barb. I would worry about it popping off with heat cycles. I read about tapping the hinges. They do seem to be made from a hard material for sure if cutting them is any indication.

Thank for the tips!

jengum

02-02-2026, 01:28 PM

Just an idea I read on other car restoration forums.

Use a compression fitting ferrule or piece of 12 gauge solid copper wire around the OD that is soldered to the copper pipe to provide a backstop for the hose clamp.

Blitzboy54

02-05-2026, 09:23 PM

have a few extra taps on hand and lots of cutting oil and patience. I broke a few and fount that a center punch breaks out the old broken tap very easily

As you say. I read a few threads including Paul's on the hinges. These things are really tough to work with. I used a 2 word phrase over and over again that starts with "mother". I used my die grinder and 3 cutting disks to get the female hinges rough cut. I then used a few different files to smooth out the edge. A band saw would be better but I don't have one. Drilling the holes was another kind of crazy experience. I broke 3 bits and ended up throwing away and replacing my 5/16.

The tap was ok (slow and steady wins the race). I found the countersink to be quite a challenge. I started with an over the counter bit but only got one hole 80% of the way done before it stopped working. Before biting the bullet and purchasing a high grade carbide bit that I would use once ($150ish) I tried this one designed for metal I found on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050PUDFW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225217&d=1770343100

This did the trick

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225212&d=1770336155

FYI - I didn't do anything to protect the finish on the hinges as these will be powder coated. If you plan to keep them bare shiny metal I would recommend using wood blocks and blue tape.

A little engine preview. The engine and accessory parts are getting painted. I have to say so far things are looking sharp!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225216&d=1770337209

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225215&d=1770337209

Blitzboy54

03-01-2026, 06:34 PM

We're Back!

I've been away from the truck for a couple weeks. I had to get my Roadster back in the shop so I could get her prepped for paint. That is now done and the roadster is in CT until Summer and I have my garage back. First priority was to get re organized and put the truck on the ground. We are officially a roller!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226261&d=1772405048

First bit of business is to clean up the heater hoses. TNT suggested a copper elbow, I was concerned about not having a barb to bite onto but liked the idea generally. I found these at Vintage Air.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226266&d=1772405126

Same concept, installed it makes the space cleaner.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226267&d=1772405221

Next I figured I would take the opportunity to trim the transmission tunnel cover. It comes oversized and needs to be fitted, so I clamped it in place and marked the underside.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226262&d=1772405048

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226263&d=1772405048

I then measured the lip to the inner edge and marked that out. Trimmed it and it fits in the recess nicely now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226264&d=1772405126

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226265&d=1772405126

Blitzboy54

03-01-2026, 06:42 PM

Engine is in the house

The big news is the engine has been delivered. I got the engine and transmission mounts installed. I started to put the header on but the gasket that comes with the kit is both bulky and shiny. I found another set of gaskets that are much darker and lower profile. I should have them this week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226268&d=1772405221

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226269&d=1772405221

The plan is to get it in as soon as possible and then build it back up in truck. It's already torn down seems like it would be advantageous to keep it that way until it's installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226271&d=1772405293

tnt_motorsports

03-02-2026, 12:19 PM

Blitzboy54

03-07-2026, 06:11 PM

Engine's In

We are finally on our way. Been a lot of starts and stops lately between getting my Cobra prepped and out the door and before that trying to get the engine in my garage. All that's in the rear view now and I plan to pickup the pace over the next few months. Me and my partner in crime got after it this morning, my daughter helped me drop the engine on my first build, this time the wife is on deck. I find using my chainfall and moving the chassis is just as effective as using an engine hoist I don't have any room for.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226472&d=1772922735

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226473&d=1772922735

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226474&d=1772922820

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226475&d=1772922820

The engine mounts are definitely unique. Not a ton of wiggle room, kind of seemed like the engine needs to be where the engine needs to be in order to get everything to line up. I had to back out a little a couple times and then finally figured it out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226476&d=1772922892

She's in! Now I can start working on the engine dress and wiring. So, so much wiring.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226478&d=1772922958

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226477&d=1772922892

cv2065

03-07-2026, 06:40 PM

Looks great Jessie! Looking forward to see what you've got in store for this beast!

danmas

03-08-2026, 10:50 AM

That is so insanely cool looking. That engine murders, slays and down right screams “don’t **** with me, I will eat your lunch and steal your women”. Well done!

Blitzboy54

03-08-2026, 05:24 PM

That is so insanely cool looking. That engine murders, slays and down right screams “don’t **** with me, I will eat your lunch and steal your women”. Well done!

Perfect, just what I was going for.

PMD24

03-09-2026, 06:02 AM

Engine is perfect for that build. Nice job Jesse.

Pat

Blitzboy54

03-09-2026, 08:29 PM

Exhaust

No new ground broken here. These pieces are really well made. Obviously the the blacked out theme continues here. I did only ceramic coat the parts that are visible with the truck on the ground.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226540&d=1773104493

On the headers the kit comes with 2 spacers and gaskets that bring the exhaust down the to the right height. The Hooker headers are a stock LS part and not quite long enough for this application

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226536&d=1773104393

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226537&d=1773104393

I didn't get a good picture of it but the passenger side transition from the header to the muffler comes up about an inch shorter than the drivers side. In order to make up that gap the kit comes with a square spacer and 2 gaskets where there is only the single gasket on the drivers side.

Just like Paul I found I needed to run the mufflers opposite of the instructions. If I put the exhaust to the outside the tips would run into the lower control arms.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226538&d=1773104393

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226539&d=1773104493

Blitzboy54

03-09-2026, 08:47 PM

Pt 2

I also found this operation only requires a single hanger in the back. Any more than that would be overkill. It is very stout. FFR it looks like has changed the hangers and not for the better. On older builds I see threaded parts that are adjustable. They welded these pieces together and in lieu of washer and nuts to hold the hangers in they used a bend at the end. I struggled to get the bent tip through the hanger. I cut the bent tip off then bent an 90 degree in the hanger so it fit the space. I used a tube bender and cut the tips off. In order to keep it from coming out I used a hose clamp on the end of the shaft. In all reality it can't come out because it is clamped to the exhaust tip.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226541&d=1773104493

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226542&d=1773104549

Drive Shaft

I also took the opportunity to install the drive shaft. Nothing too complicated here either except I needed to connect the ebrake so I could get the bolts torqued to the required 70 ft/lbs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226544&d=1773104628

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226547&d=1773107097

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226545&d=1773104628

RuffShod

03-11-2026, 07:33 AM

Blitzboy54

03-11-2026, 11:06 AM

Your slip yoke into your transmission is sticking out like mine does. I wish they would have made the drive shaft an inch longer. I was going to run the rear links as short as I can to get it to penetrate deeper onto the spline shaft.

I think they designed it around the idea that it would be using the IRS style pinion. The adaptor for that is about an inch. I was shipped one and the bolts that go with it. I had to buy my own fox era style bolts since the rear end I got had the older pinion.

Blitzboy54

03-14-2026, 09:38 PM

Engine dress

I had assumed I would have water pump interference based solely on Pauls truck build. I am also using an LS3 so I figured the basic fit would be the same. I wanted to get out in front of it so I removed the pressed in heater corp barbs and tapped the holes before it got painted. As it turns out my engine sits higher than Paul's did but that might be because I have the extended cab? At any rate I did go a slightly different route. I found 90 degree swivel fittings 3/8 and 1/2 npt to 10AN fittings. This works nice because they are so close to each other it gives you a lot of flexibility.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226779&d=1773540556

Attach a 5/8 barb to 10AN and we are in business. I really like that they rotate. This give me a lot of adjust ability

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226780&d=1773540556

I had to wait to finish the engine dress this week as I needed black hardware to go with the theme. It's a mix of metric and SAE so I figured i would just wait until I got it in the garage instead of trying to guess ahead of time size and length.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226781&d=1773540556

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226782&d=1773540591

I am going to pull the valve covers and have them PC'ed black. I am now getting into wiring and I don't want to pull them later. I also decided to add steam vent kit so I have to pull the intake manifold anyhow. Mind as well get it all done now.

On to wiring. One thing I will say is the harness was clearly designed for the Roadster. I get that it is also used for all the other vehicles. I would imagine the coupe is pretty close geometrically but the truck is not. I suspect the Hotrod is the same. You can make it work but for my build I have to make a lot of modifications. I will also heavily diet this harness for the first time.

I did get the engine grounded. I have to be extra carefull to make sure I get metal to metal contact with all the paint and powder coating. I also purchased a pre made ground wire as it fits the theme. I keep a fluke with me and check all my grounds to the engine block, heads and frame. I will repeat this with virtually every circuit I add to the build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226783&d=1773540591

Blitzboy54

03-14-2026, 10:00 PM

Front harness

As I mentioned the harness is not designed for the truck and this is the first example. The manual states to peal out the fan wiring and fan switch from the harness so that it sits in the center. The truck is much narrower than the Roadster so this makes sense. Accept the ground is spliced in so you can't pull it out of the loom without cutting it. So this is what I did . I snipped the ground wire, pulled the fan wires back to the center of the front of the truck and re spliced it back in. I used a piece of similarly gauged wire (just happened to be orange) for this. It will all be wire loomed so no one that doesn't read this thread will know :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226786&d=1773542691

The exhaust is an issue however. It takes up a lot of space an it dictates the wire routing as it all needs to come into the cabin through the same area flanked by hot exhaust. I will likely look into a heat wrap in the bits that are closest.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226787&d=1773542691

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226788&d=1773542691

Blitzboy54

03-15-2026, 06:13 PM

Wiring layout

There is going to be a lot going on here electrically. I have a Dakota Digital LCD dash, backup camera, Estopp, Autoloc remote door openers, interactive blue tooth LCD, power windows, heat and AC controls and the Holley Terminator X Max. While the dash is a lot taller and deeper than a roadster it is also bit more narrow. Long story short is I need a plan. I have spent the last few weeks gaming out how to make it all work. I worked out most of it but I decided to the best strategy was to leave some wiggle room for changes and/or things I didn't anticipate.

First thing is to start cutting the harness back. A couple things about this. The harness is fine, if your building the kit as designed there is plenty of room. The harness is longer than it needs to be and takes up a lot of room. This is only an issue for me as I have a lot of other things I need to fit in the space.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226842&d=1773614534

The other part of this is the Dakota Digital dash interfaces with the Holley Terminator so a lot of the sender wires and other options that come with the harness are not necessary in this case. I found a piece of aluminum diamond plate at the hardware store and made a shelf. This will serve as a hub.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226835&d=1773608409

I have a main 12V bus for the main power feeds. Battery, alternator, starter, the RF ignition wires and any thing else that requires a direct battery connection. The Holley for sure, power steering and possibly the Estopp. I will run a fused HAAT, switched 12v and ground to the other three bus bars. This makes it a lot easier to wire. I am going to add another wire passthrough although most of the wiring is above the fuse box area. I left some blank space to add relays. I have an antenna/controller for the remote door poppers but it's small and attaches with adhesive so that will get stuck to the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226837&d=1773608409

I am trying to keep the engine bay as clean as possible. I found the passenger foot box to be an ideal fit for the Holley ECU. more lucky than good but it's like it was designed to fit there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226843&d=1773618032

I've exposed most of the wires that need work. A lot of this just needs to be shortened. I'll remove some of it. Once it's all laid out I'll re loom it to clean things up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226838&d=1773608488

I also started laying out the rear harness until I ran out of wire clamps. Both Cobras I had extras, I didn't seem to get enough with the truck. I don't like the idea of running wires outside the vehicle so that pretty much leaves the drive shaft tunnel. If you run it in the upper corner and keep it tight there is plenty of clearance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226836&d=1773608409

Chris H.

03-16-2026, 11:11 PM

I'll tell ya, I had a hell of a time with the coolant lines to and from the radiator on my LS build. I ended up using AN lines and am very happy with it.

mkassab

03-17-2026, 06:04 AM

Blitzboy54

03-17-2026, 09:31 AM

Blitz,
I too have all the Dakota Digital devices. I see you're mounting them deep in the dash. Remember, you'll have to perform setup settings... How will you get to the interface boxes to do your settings after all are hooked up?

Mark

Hi Mark,

After wiring I am moving toward first start. My plan is to complete the electrical and gauge cluster setup without the body or dash on it. I am working on a temporary holder for the screen I will likely test fit both the dash and body then remove them. After everything is setup and works I will go cart, then shift into dash integration. I did see that Dakota Digital allows blue tooth setup with the app, so I would be covered either way but I will have everything exposed for the setup.

Thanks for looking out!

Blitzboy54

03-22-2026, 06:10 PM

First I took a break from wiring to bleed the brakes. Nothing too fancy, I used a vacuum bleeder to rough charge the lines then my wife helped me with the pump, hold, bleed method. Had one leak in one of the rear connections and one in the incoming hose to MC. The hose clamp wasn't tight enough and some seeped out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227106&d=1774217811

Rear Harness

Completed the rear harness work for now. Routed everything through the transmission tunnel (get into that in a bit).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227109&d=1774217938

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227110&d=1774217938

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227107&d=1774217864

I have the battery in . I went with the XS power D925. It's the same dimensions as the Odyssey that FFR recommends but has a little more AH's. I have the main power and ground as well as 2 separate lines of each. Both go to the Holley, both the ECU and wiring harness require home runs. I flirted with using a terminal block but just figured it was best to follow the instructions to the letter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227111&d=1774218025

I did run a terminal block in the front, I have the battery, starter, alternator, 2 RF ignition feeds, power steering and the last one will be used for the estopp parking brake. They want a 10a fuse, so I am putting one inline.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227108&d=1774217938

PMD24

03-22-2026, 06:31 PM

Jesse, what are those battery terminals? I looked at a ton before buying mine for the MK4. Bought something that's pretty generic, and I'm not at all thrilled with them.

Pat

Blitzboy54

03-22-2026, 09:33 PM

Jesse, what are those battery terminals? I looked at a ton before buying mine for the MK4. Bought something that's pretty generic, and I'm not at all thrilled with them.

Pat

I found the on Amazon, they are brass terminals with silicon covers. What I like is they are modular. I also have open lugs still. I want to add remote charging terminals at some point. As an aside I am really struggling to figure out where. The truck rides so low anything under the bed in impractical. I really don't want to run more wires upfront. I might actually try and figure out how to put them in the cab. I'll have to wait and see how it goes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MKCCM83?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Blitzboy54

03-22-2026, 09:54 PM

Rear harness Pt 2

So I am having some issues uploading photo's I figured out a work around for now. Hopefully these post ok.

I have a lot of wiring going from front to back. The battery in the back is a big part of it. The Holley Terminator is another big part as it wants direct battery power and ground. The ECU has it's own loom with 10ga wires and I ran a dedicated 12 ga power and ground for the harness. In addition we have the Ron Francis rear harness, power for backup lights, backup camera and the estopp.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227129&d=1774235308

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227127&d=1774234921

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227130&d=1774235342

One of the other things that is very different with the truck vs the Roadster is the transmission tunnel makes things a little complicated. I REALLY don't want to install it before first start. It will 100% be in the way. I am going to have to undo a lot of wiring in order to install it when it comes time. I am using weather packs to make as much of the front to rear stuff with connectors for easier disassembly. This true for the clutch as well. It's hydraulic, so I have no interest in charging it, just to break and drain it again later. I thought about modifying the tunnel with a cutout in the center to pass wires and hoses through but I haven't committed to the idea yet.

Speaking of wiring. I started stripping down the RF harness and paring down just what I need. Most of the senders are run through the Holley Terminator. The two notable exceptions are the gas sender and speedometer. I am using a GPS antenna. So really just the one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227124&d=1774232478

peterh226

03-23-2026, 03:43 PM

Blitzboy54

03-25-2026, 09:42 AM

Some good stuff between your and EdwardB's build. My engine/tranny combo (LS and ZF 8HP from BluePrint) just arrived so it working one that stuff. I'll be going with Dakota Digital as well, but Blueprint has some different stuff now - a new controller and a big fuse box. Those and a lot of cable that I'm going to need to figure out how to deal with.
Make sure you take good notes on the electric. When you need to dig back in to find, fix, or modify something your will need it!

Well, to be mentioned alongside Paul is quite a compliment. If he's Rembrandt I'm at best Jackson Pollock, at worst the kid in the back of the class eating glue. Good news is the thing I like most about these builds is the electrical. I find it very satisfying to get everything to work like it should.

Dash wiring Pt1

Speaking of which I am starting to make a little progress. I completed the battery bus which includes a home run to the the battery, RF ignition wires, alternator, parking brake and power steering. The power steering comes with a fuse inline. The estopp recommends using a circuit with a 10 amp fuse. I purchased an inline fuse holder and put it inline. I didn't get a good picture of it but I mounted it in a way that it sits under the fuse panel and can be accessed there. I added another bus near Dakota Digital module. This way I can have a bus for always hot, accessory power, ignition power and ground. The Holley requires switch power that does not shut off during ignition. I believe accessory power disengages when you crank the engine. I like the idea of having easy access to both.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227224&d=1774444581

I have my harness grounded as well. In addition to this main ground I also put a ground lug on the other side of the chassis and connected a ground from the RF harness to it. It is now fully grounded to the chassis in 2 locations. I checked resistance to the engine block and battery neg lead. All are less than a deciohm. On this bus I have ground to the chassis, the RF harness, power steering and the ground bus for electronics. I will also run the ground for the estopp to this as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227225&d=1774444581

The last harness I needed to integrate (or at least have a plan for) was the heater/AC. I test fit where everything was going to go and it fits just fine. The bigger issue is the instructions. I would love for Dave to hire me to clean up the manuals. As someone that creates a lot of technical documents there is a lot of room for improvement. First when the hardware evolves the pics and instructions need to be updated. 2nd I think sometimes they think they are being clear but maybe need to take another look. It always works out and I eventually get there. At the end of the day they will answer your questions but Dave if your reading this, give me a call!

This is a very good example. I couldn't figure out what this meant for almost an hour. I eventually worked it out but this comes on the heals of instructing you to tie the blue "dryer" wire into the fan sender. There is no such label on the "dyer" and conflating it with the blue power wire for the fan makes it even more confusing. I received no yellow electrical connector and what on earth am I looking at in this picture?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227235&d=1774449011

What I think they mean here is if you are using the some sort of control pack or engine management system to control the fan, double tie in the power. Otherwise don't. I'm still not entirely sure that's what they mean but I think I'm close.

This brings me to the control switches. I like the look of these but for what I am going for I fear this might be too big and bulky. I am looking to do something else (maybe).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227227&d=1774444581

There isn't a direct over the counter solution but I think I can replace the AC on switch easily enough and I can probably remove the fan and temp switch and change the knobs. We will see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227226&d=1774444581

Blitzboy54

03-26-2026, 07:33 PM

Wiring Pt 2

I was back and forth on how much to wire needing to get the transmission tunnel back in. I finally noticed that build manual instructs you to create a wire pass through. I had thought about doing that on my own but figured there was a maybe a reason not to. Now that I have permission this makes it easier going forward. With that I decided to connect everything electrically and the hydraulic clutch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227340&d=1774569548

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227341&d=1774569548

I made the Estopp connection using a weather pack. With all the connections and various harnesses ( Ron Francis, Heater/AC, and 3 Holley) I am trying to use as many connectors as possible. Like the control wires for the Heater/ AC harness

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227339&d=1774569548

Real estate is getting tight so I am using the heater front for the door popper antenna. This is an Autoloc system that has a key fob remote to open the doors. It can also be used to program other systems like windows (no plans to do this but you never know).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227343&d=1774569562

It uses 3 relays. One for each door and a safety relay. This disables the system when the engine is running so you can't accidentally open the door when driving.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227342&d=1774569562

Blitzboy54

03-26-2026, 07:48 PM

Wiring Pt 2 continued

I was a little stuck trying to figure out how all the wiring for the heater/AC and fan all worked together. Like I said the FFR instructions are not amazing but I now have it worked out. Please check me if you see something wrong with my line of thinking here. The FFR instruction say to tie the blue "dryer" wire into the fan switch at the fuse box

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227347&d=1774569574

A couple things here. This is a terribly difficult location to "tap" into. I confirmed with my meter that this location is connected to both the green fan wire in the front of the harness and the sender leg seen here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227346&d=1774569574

The blue dryer wire is connected to the trinary switch. The other side of that switch is a common ground. So when the switch goes it triggers the fan. The green wire if tied to the engine fan switch uses engine ground when it gets hot. In my case the Holley comes with a ground trigger wire to switch on fan control (I will use the EFI vs the old school switch). This is all to say if I tie the Holley fan ground trigger and the dryer wire to the green fan switch at the pigtail that will give me full fan control for both engine temp and AC using the existing RF fan relay. Easy peesy.

And since we are talking grounds. I need a home for the inertia switch. The instructions say to mount it to the 1" square tube. The issue for me is with the Holley ECU mounted where it is there isn't any real estate. I also have no interest in putting any new holes in the firewall. I have identified these two potential landing spots. Both are imperfect.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227344&d=1774569562

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227345&d=1774569574

Super Dave

03-26-2026, 07:58 PM

KZGUNS

03-27-2026, 09:32 AM

You can mount the switch wherever it fits. once mounted make sure it's reset or you will get a no crank issue. If it gets bumped it will pop the safety, I just shook it in my hand and it popped. I am wondering how it will hold up if you hit a bump etc.

Guardm16

03-27-2026, 05:02 PM

I put my safety switch on the right side of the footbox steel. Just to the Left and Rear of the fuse box. I can still reach it to reset.

227535

Blitzboy54

03-30-2026, 07:32 PM

I've been following your build for a while and just wanted to say Thanks for posting all the pics - Definitely helps me understand what I'm getting myself into and how to overcome some of the common issues

Thank you and welcome aboard!

Wiring Pt 3

Well, I mostly took the weekend off. My wife and I drove to Buffalo and attended a hockey game and had a great time. I did manage to get a few things done. I have to say I am starting to feel some wiring burn out. I am anxious to get the valve covers back from powder coat so I can move on to the engine for a while.

I routed the Drive by Wire harness. It has a 12v brake signal for start. I have decided that having a neutral safety switch on the clutch AND a brake switch to start the engine is redundant. I realize I would likely have one foot on both but it still seems like over kill so I effectively disabled the brake signal by running the 12v trigger to the ignition bus.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227564&d=1774915914

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227565&d=1774915925

I also committed to placing the inertia switch near the pedal box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227567&d=1774915941

Last is I had to clean up the wiring area. The original terminal blocks I chose were too big. I really didn't need that many points of connection and I left very little room to route wires. I removed them and went with these units that are smaller. It's much easier to manage. I will get them labeled at some point and clean up the loose wire. I now have about 95% of it figured out, though I would say at this point I only have about 60% of it actually completed. Baby steps

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227566&d=1774915933

I also felt like the shelf was a little flimsy. I want to keep the area in front and above clear for the dash and ducts. I came up with this. I secured a piece of 3/8 ss tubing to the steel bracket that holds up the heater/AC and created a brace. Works well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227568&d=1774917668

jengum

03-30-2026, 09:38 PM

Go Sabres!

PMD24

03-31-2026, 07:50 AM

Interesting read on the electric Jesse. Well thought out. I've also gotten addicted to it. I'm tracking my hours and it will be interesting to see how much time I've spent on electrical alone. I'm guessing I'm at 100+ hours at this point. The most challenging thing for me is trying to get the stuff behind the dash routed in a manner that is somewhat clean... or I guess I should say, less messy.

I agree 100% with you on the manuals. They really need attention. I'm planning to speak with Dave Hodgkins about the intent of the wiki tab here. Oddly, there's not much there. Seems like a great place to build a really good manual for each FFR vehicle. I've kept good records on my electrical changes and given the fact that many folks are challenged by it (me included), I feel like I should share it (in one place).

Pat

Blitzboy54

03-31-2026, 06:34 PM

Electrical testing

I finally got to a payoff point. Before cleaning up some of the remaining loose wiring from the harness I wanted to make sure everything works. I connected up the ignition, headlight switch, parking brake, backup camera and dash. I connected up the turn signal switch, hazards and horn.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227606&d=1774998128

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227607&d=1774998128

I was pleased to discover all my circuits work. I was able to confirm headlights, high beams, turn signals, horn, hazards, dome light and brake lights. I was also able to test the power steering. That is a pretty cool unit. When it's powered on I am able to turn the steering hub with my fingers with ease. I would have expected a motor noise or wine, but nothing. It's completely quiet and just works.

Digital Gauges

I connected up the dash, this is one of the highlights of the build. It's part of their Grafix series GRFX-2017. It's completely digital, fully programmable and the best part is it's an oval shape that fits perfectly in the center of the dash. The only thing I ran into that didn't work right out of the box is I do not yet have it connected to the Holley Terminator, therefore it does not see any oil pressure so it alarms for that. There is a lot of programming and setup needed but for now I just wanted to make sure the basic inputs worked.

Base screen

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227599&d=1774998092

This is what it defaults to with the lights on, I had the high beams on and you can see the indicator. You can also see the parking brake indicator as well. I was able to test the hazards and turn signals they work as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227601&d=1774998092

Backup camera, tied to the reverse lights.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227602&d=1774998092

I am installing the Autoloc door shave kit. I was able to program the key fobs, they work as designed. The lock button opens the driver door and the unlock the passenger. The kit comes with a bluetooth app, however I was not able to connect to it. I spoke with their tech support and they think I either have a faulty controller or the latest IOS update needs to be adjusted for in the app. Either way they will take care of me but for now as long as the fobs work I'm fine. I tested the actuator, they work but the instructions call for individual 30a fuses for each door. I am going to install a secondary fuse panel exclusively for the doors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227605&d=1774998128

Last here is the left over carnage from the harness diet. If I was to build another one of these I think I would fully strip the harness and start over.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227603&d=1774998128

PMD24

04-01-2026, 06:04 AM

Congrats Jesse. Big Milestone. Almost as satisfying as first start.

Pat

Blitzboy54

04-05-2026, 06:56 PM

Radiator and Grill

Taking a break from wiring I moved on to the cooling system. I will eventually powder coat most of this but want to get through first start before breaking it back down. The plan is to start it with water and use proper coolant after re assembly.

I mounted the grill and it's a really sharp piece. I put it on the ground to check clearance and we have plenty

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227844&d=1775430109

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227845&d=1775430109

Pulled and and started the radiator/condenser assembly. This is another area I think I want to warn anyone interested that the instructions don't fully match the reality of the hardware. The condenser is a new design and requires no assembly. The instructions still show the older unit. The issue is the radiator doesn't actually fit inside the grill as shown and I would imagine requires spacers. None of that is mentioned. The other problem is there is virtually no way to mark and line up the holes to the grill as shown in the instructions as a result. I am not sure what I would do differently next time but I came dangerously close to screwing up.

The real issue is they pre drill the holes in the grill, it would be better if they didn't. That way you could stack everything together and drill direct through before putting in the rivnuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227846&d=1775430109

The spacers provided are only the correct size if you also install the hinges. As of now this truck will have a hood so I put them in, but I had to make my own spacers for the lower tabs as the gap is significantly bigger.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227847&d=1775430215

This is all to say it looks great once installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227848&d=1775430215

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227850&d=1775430215

I picked up a thermostat and housing. The LS uses a unique design where it seals with a rubber gasket on the thermostat itself. This allows for the housing to be made like this. It's really clever in that it fully swivels. I suspect this will help as it's pretty tight under there. Any flexibility helps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227849&d=1775430215

Blitzboy54

04-05-2026, 07:08 PM

Engine Harness and Holley Wiring

Getting back to wiring, I have now completed most of the wiring. I have dry run the heat/ac harness but hold off on testing that for a while. Everything else is wired accept the power windows and shaved door poppers. I have power to the poppers at the relay's and the windows will run off the ACC circuit.

I ran the Holley harness and have that mostly buttoned up. Need to add the coil packs but need my valve covers back before I finish that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227853&d=1775430240

It looks like a bit of a mess but but there will be several pass though points with grommets on the trans tunnel cover.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227851&d=1775430240

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227852&d=1775430240

Now that I have the sensors in, I want to power up and get the Dakota Digital talking to the Holley system and get everything calibrated. Then I'll unpack the lights and do a hard test. From there, finish the mechanical connections and head toward firing this puppy up.

Guardm16

04-07-2026, 01:08 PM

Curious, Has FFR fixed the Lower Radiator outlet/hose issue? Mine was about 50% blocked by the chassis lower shock support plate. It is definitely a tight fit to make that turn.

Blitzboy54

04-07-2026, 04:19 PM

Curious, Has FFR fixed the Lower Radiator outlet/hose issue? Mine was about 50% blocked by the chassis lower shock support plate. It is definitely a tight fit to make that turn.

I'm not sure if it's been "fixed" as this is my first build. I will say it is very tight. My plan I have a 90 and 45 degree elbows on order to see which one fits better. I will essentially make an S out of the lower outlet and then it will run along under the chassis (I don't love this part). The only other option is to have it run through the wishbone suspension and that seems like a bad idea. Like Paul said in his build "It's under the grill and the mid point of the chassis behind the firewall". I would like it better protected if it could be but like you said, it's really tight in there.

Guardm16

04-08-2026, 02:01 PM

I made a rock guard, just a piece of 1/8 aluminum, easy to bend by hand. I think I could have done 1/16th. The curve helps strengthen the guard.

227939

Blitzboy54

04-08-2026, 05:58 PM

I made a rock guard, just a piece of 1/8 aluminum, easy to bend by hand. I think I could have done 1/16th. The curve helps strengthen the guard.

227939

That's smart, I might do something similar.

Blitzboy54

04-11-2026, 05:05 PM

Lower radiator hose

Talking about the lower radiator hose I decided with the jenky nature of the bends it needs to make I don't want to use the corrugated metal hose. It will pinch and rub. I looked for an over the counter solution and had no luck so I decided to piece my own unit together. I like silicone and figured I could Lego something together. You basically need an S shape coming out of the return. Using 2 90 degree bends, 1.5 inch couplers and a couple gates fasteners I came up with this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228045&d=1775943534

I then measured up to the thermostat housing and it was 20 inches (give or take). I found an one piece flexible AC Delco line and completed the line. Nice thing here is the flexible hose is already black. It's also rubber coated so no worries about any rubbing damage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228046&d=1775943556

Installed it fits as cleanly as possible considering the space. I will keep the metal clamps on both ends in case it needs to be removed although they will get powder coated like the rest when the time comes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228047&d=1775943556

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228051&d=1775943573

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228048&d=1775943556

Heater / AC wiring

Routing out the heater harness I got that connected and landed. The blue and black wire that connect to the trinary switch are a path from the fan relay to ground. I checked to make sure when powered on that the fan would trigger on by touching those wires together. It worked as expected. The other thing I did that I didn't picture here was created a weather pack connection from the RF harness to the fan. This the third time I have connected one of these fans together and I fall for the connector looking like it will fit but doesn't every time!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228049&d=1775943556

I made the AC compressor connection as well. Single wire as there is no ground on the unit. Come to think of it I hope that's not a problem, I assume the compressor grounds to the engine but it has been painted. If the compressor won't kick on I suspect that will be why.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228050&d=1775943573

Blitzboy54

04-11-2026, 05:15 PM

Fluids

I put 30 weight break in oil and filled the transmission. I also bled the clutch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228044&d=1775943534

Engine dress complete

Bigger news is I got the valve covers back from PC and finished the engine dress. I have the harness routed and tied down. The fuel line has been run. I am waiting on a connection for the upper radiator hose (90 degree elbow 1.25 to 1.5) then I can install that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228052&d=1775943573

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228042&d=1775943534

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228043&d=1775943534

Once in the last thing to do is make the last few connections to the over flow tank and steam vent, put water in the system, test the fuel for leaks and turn the key. Planning on attempting first start this week!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228053&d=1775943573

tnt_motorsports

04-11-2026, 09:48 PM

looking good Jesse!

Blitzboy54

04-13-2026, 07:50 PM

Upper Radiator Hose

I pieced together the upper radiator hose. I purchased this slick filler neck from Canton Racing at Summit, it has a 3/8 npt port for a temp sensor that also works well as a steam vent port. It's billet aluminum so will powder coat nicely when the time comes. Same with the 90 degree bend. I thought about trying to use another silicon bend with a coupler but the angle is a little too tight. All this will eventually be assembled with Gates power grip couplers but for now it all has to be broken down it's a mish mash of worm clamps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228140&d=1776126977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228138&d=1776126977

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228139&d=1776126977

mkassab

04-14-2026, 05:58 AM

For what it's worth, I had leaking issues with the Gates Power Grips... I ended up with T-Clamps on all the radiator hoses. I just placed the clamps over the Gates Power Grips.

Mark

KZGUNS

04-15-2026, 07:41 AM

FYI if you go with the shrink clamps get them from McMaster carr. They a significantly cheaper. Just search shrink clamps.

Blitzboy54

04-15-2026, 09:25 AM

Well, I don't know about the water fittings yet but I tested the fuel system last night and I had 2 fittings fail. I was suprised as this is the 3rd time using these and I have had great luck. Both were 90 degree 6an to PTFE. I suspect I got a couple of bad fittings. I ordered some new ones and will re make those 2 lines and re test.

Fingers crossed.

Guardm16

04-15-2026, 10:25 AM

This is looking great, I am impressed with the speed of your progress. Great job. In regards to the hoses. You are spot on about waiting to use the shrink clamps, but maybe not for the reason you think. The truck and I suspect the 33 hot rod both have adjustable grill angles depending on hood, radiator grill and personal preference. I found that for me to get the look I wanted and to have the hood fit, I had to change the hoses after what I thought would work.

Disclaimer: All situations are different your results may vary. lol

Blitzboy54

04-15-2026, 10:35 AM

Blitzboy54

04-15-2026, 07:31 PM

She's ALIVE!

Well, I setup my phone to get a first start video and after I did it I discovered I never actually successfully pressed the record button. Doh!

So this will have to do. So more "first idle" than first start. Speaking of which it idles way too high. When hot it creeps up near 2000 RPM. I will go over the IAC and TPS setups tomorrow, after I figure out where the IAC set screw is on an LS3 throttle body is. lol. I think it's hiding behind a cover but it's late and I don't want to get into it tonight. The engine was setup at Blueprint but I would be surprised if they spent a lot of time with the idle

We officially have a heartbeat so all in all a pretty good day.

https://youtu.be/OuzogVb4jQ8?si=fCyPqtV4nKVbB2nA

PNWTim

04-15-2026, 11:00 PM

That's a big milestone Jesse, congratulations. You are moving right along on this build. And first start, first idle, who's really keeping track? Well done.

TXeverydayDad

04-15-2026, 11:38 PM

Congrats Jesse!

Blitzboy54

04-16-2026, 07:50 AM

Quick update, I have to test it tonight but I think I figured out my idle issue. The vacuum port for brake assist on the back of the manifold was open. It had a cap but was removed when painted. I plugged it back up but it was too late to start it again. It's warm out and windows are open in the neighborhood. Will test this afternoon but I'm pretty confident that will fix it.

Jeff Kleiner

04-16-2026, 09:37 AM

Congrats on the major milestone Jesse :cool: Yeah, big vacuum leak will definitely affect the idle.

Jeff

Blitzboy54

04-16-2026, 06:06 PM

Congrats on the major milestone Jesse :cool: Yeah, big vacuum leak will definitely affect the idle.

Jeff

Yup that was it. All sorted out now, sounds so mean.

https://youtu.be/R0NDPHrj_vU?si=3YmX4Af2exHAmoEK

cv2065

04-16-2026, 06:52 PM

Looks and sounds awesome Jessie. Loving those gauges.

PMD24

04-16-2026, 07:01 PM

Congrats Jesse. Sounds great!

Pat

Guardm16

04-17-2026, 08:56 AM

Awesome job. Congratulations!!!!! next up: Go-cart?

Blitzboy54

04-17-2026, 09:56 AM

Awesome job. Congratulations!!!!! next up: Go-cart?

Yes, as soon as I can figure out a seat. I don't actually have any yet. Might end up being a milk crate. lol

Guardm16

04-19-2026, 10:43 AM

Yes, as soon as I can figure out a seat. I don't actually have any yet. Might end up being a milk crate. lol

I can send you mine. Made from some left over cedar fence boards

228329

Blitzboy54

04-19-2026, 02:05 PM

I can send you mine. Made from some left over cedar fence boards

228329

Brilliant!

Unintended Consequence

I ran the engine up and down a few heat cycles. Setup the cooling fan temps and decided what to do about my fuel pump. I have opted to do nothing and leave it on the RF harness, there just isn't enough upside to moving it to the Holley with all the other wiring I would have to move with it.

I did have a few other issues that came up however that required some attention.

1st issue is the fuel sender. After putting 5 gallons of gas in the tank and programing the gauge cluster to "Ford 20-180 ohm" it read below empty. I measured the resistance of the level sender and it as still reading 15 ohms. I suddenly remembered on my 2nd MK4 build the sender crapped out after a couple weeks. I think FFR has a sender supplier quality issue. I purchased a replacement part, tested and installed and now the fuel gauge works like it should.

2nd issue is I get some coolant seepage out of the return line at the thermostat housing. I cranked down on the clamp but it's a bit of goofy angle. I have a plan to add a 30 silicone elbow that should sort that out. When I drain the system to PC all the components I will implement the that fix.

3rd was both an issue and a small success. I was idling along and heard the dash alarm. Took a look and it was faulting for low voltage. It read 10.5 volts. I went over to the battery and took a reading and got the same. I moved over to the alternator output and it was also reading 10.5 volts. Good news is my low voltage alarm works! Bad news is because of the paint the alternator is probably no longer grounded. Sure enough I created a clean metal spot on the housing and took a read back to the chassis and it was reading open or very high resistance. I then checked the AC compressor because that probably is going to have the same issue and sure enough it did. To fix this the simplest solution seemed to be a direct ground to the chassis. So that is what I did.

I cleaned up the ground lug on both the AC compressor and alternator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228337&d=1776623776

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228338&d=1776623776

Both now have a dedicated ground wire to the same chassis lug as the engine block.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228339&d=1776623776

While I was down there I figured it as good a time as any to mount the horns. I am always so surprised how loud these things are. lol. It's like a Jack in the Box, I always hold my breath a little before I test it. I am also starting to paint bolts black that I am not longer going to have to put a wrench on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228336&d=1776623156

I will be moving onto the transmission tunnel soon. One of the things I have been concerned with is the shared space with all the wiring and the drive shaft. It clears but I wonder about wiring harness droop. Solution ended up being pretty simple. I had some left over 3/8 SS tubing that I cut into 2 equal lengths. I secured them to the inside of the safety loops and then zip tied the looms to them. They are now rigid.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228335&d=1776623156

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228334&d=1776623156

Blitzboy54

04-21-2026, 06:03 PM

Go Kart Time

I got her outside for the first time. I wanted to take a video but I just couldn't find good way to mount it to the chassis on short notice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228439&d=1776811516

I had to get a little creative with the seat. "Captain Sketchy McSketcherson reporting for duty!" Funny thing is it puts you in an almost perfect driving position. I did need to flip the shifter around. Once this is thing is buttoned up for good I suspect it will be a straight stick.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228440&d=1776811753

The transmission shifts really smooth but the engine struggles a little at low RPM. It definitely needs to be tuned. I also need to re bleed the breaks, still a little air in there.

All in all she sounds amazing and has way too much power. I feel comfortable building around it now. We are on our way.

Salty Chief 35

04-21-2026, 06:46 PM

A little spray chrome out of the rattle can and you got a nice set of bomber seats… that’s fantastic!

Jeff Kleiner

04-22-2026, 09:08 AM

That's awesome Jesse! It's all looking really nice (especially the seat! :D)

Jeff

Guardm16

04-23-2026, 11:41 AM

Congratulations. much better seat than mine.

Blitzboy54

04-25-2026, 04:03 PM

Transmission Tunnel

This was a LOT harder than I expected it to be. Some of that is the way I had it wired and how I routed it. To prep I cleaned the underside of the tunnel and sprayed it with 2 coats of bed liner. I forgot to take a picture of it. I know you can't really see it but if it's up on a lift it looks nice. Biggest issues for me were the pass through holes. The Holley main harness and the front RF harness both required 1 5/8 inch holes to get the connectors through. I do not have grommets that big so I ordered some and will install them later.

I thought about making this removable but it's just not practical. It will have heat mat, carpet, and a center console on top. If someone is hell bent enough to remove all that I guess they can drill out the rivets too. Otherwise you will have to service the drive train on a lift like any other car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228525&d=1777149384

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228526&d=1777149398

I also ran a 12 inch pigtail for the Holley can bus that I will leave in the foot well. After I got everything reconnected I fired up the engine and to make sure I hadn't broken any electrical connections. You can see here how big the pass through hole needs to be. I will have grommets in a couple days

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228528&d=1777149398

For the cover I decided to cut in in a few pieces while cutting out space for wires. This way I can seal it up when the time comes without disconnecting anything. I still have a bunch of wiring left in the center so it will stay open for a while. Heat AC controls, windows, and charging ports will all be in the console.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228518&d=1777149064

Part of what kicked my butt on this so hard is the limited space. There really isn't a lot of room and site lines from underneath are limited. I also used a ton of zip ties and as it turns out the cut offs are dangerous little buggers. Like working around barb wire. lol

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228527&d=1777149398

Blitzboy54

04-25-2026, 04:14 PM

Body on

I have been storing the cab in my back yard since October so It was nice to get it where it belongs. All in all it fit pretty well first try. I had to trim a little bit from the lower firewall area and the bottom front frame to make everything fit correctly. But man it looks good. I think I will use a few button head screws with rivnuts for the firewall to the body but it naturally fits pretty flush so almost not necessary.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228524&d=1777149384

I test fit the front cowl. I will post more about this later, needed a little trimming but what sticks out on that early is the aluminum that is used to attach it to the frame does not fit as designed with AC. The evaporator gets in the way. I will have to modify it, no biggie just an FYI.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228519&d=1777149261

I got to set the hood to see how she looks. This how it will be run, no sides with a hood. So far so good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228520&d=1777149301

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228522&d=1777149362

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228521&d=1777149362

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228523&d=1777149384

THUNDERSTRUCK

04-25-2026, 10:28 PM

Blitzboy54

04-26-2026, 07:27 AM

Jesse
Sorry for late question on something in post. Lower stop on Rear Shocks looks like you moved it from bottom to upper location. Mine came on bottom but doesn't seem right looks like you moved yours up over course of build

I did, another builder pointed out that on his truck it was squaty in the back fully extended and recommended I change the collar position. I did as he recommended. There is a snap ring that can be moved (it's quite easy) and move the collar up. It seems like depending on ride height it can go either way. Good news is I am going to setup my height in the next couple of days so I will let you know.

Blitzboy54

04-28-2026, 09:31 AM

Front Cowl and hood

With the initial mock up I decided to make some changes to the front cowl.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228623&d=1777385661

I will not have sides so the rectangle that the front lower A arm resides in is a little out of place as well as the inner flange that the sides would press against.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228621&d=1777385646

Removed and marked some areas for removal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228624&d=1777385661

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228622&d=1777385661

I adjusted the radiator position and re installed the cowl. I am not sure I am done making changes but this is is it for now. It clearly needs rounding and shaping. I also had to make a few adjustments to the lower aluminum to fit with the AC condenser and I discovered the kit came with a couple spacers to keep the nose from dipping in toward the hood. I will get some pics for that in a future update. I think I will go ahead and install the hood hinge before moving onto the doors and bed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228620&d=1777385646

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228619&d=1777385646

I will probably update both this thread and the new site soon, kind of waiting till an official launch before committing to it.