Upper Control arm Ball joint

[Fe911]

Hi Everyone, I'm new here. I bought an early MK1 from the original owner after it had been in storage for a while. I've gotten it running Fox Body 5.0 injected(idles all over the place, getting better). The problem I'm having is a really harsh front end. I had it aligned after replacing the rack with a manual rack. I told them it was clanking a little and to check to make sure everything was tight while they were in there. It disappeared for a little while, but still clanks coming out of my steep garage entry(along with hitting the side pipes). Yesterday I jacked it up. Pulled and cleaned the passenger side. Everything looked ok, went to the driver side and was having a really hard time. the upper and lower a arms seem stuck and then I noticed the upper ball joint seeming to be popping out. I stopped to try and find anything on the internet, couldn't really find anything. Does anyone here have any experience with this. Or any suggestions? Thanks, here's a picture. Sorry, really cramped quarters to take the picture.
220760

[Papa]

I don't have any personal experience with the early cars from FFR; mine is a MK4. From what I've read, the early cars with the donor spindles suffered from geometry issues and bump steer. Factory Five started making their own spindles, which I think solved a lot of the issues. I'm sure one of the long-time gurus will be able to help recommend a path forward for you to improve the handling.

[rich grsc]

Just need to screw it back into the A-arm

[Fe911]

I added the bump steer kit, and after alignment it seems to drive much better. I think the threads on the ball joint are destroyed? Like it was forced up? I don't know.
I gave up last night after I couldn't release enough to get the coilover out.

[Jeff Kleiner]

That's a Moog K772 (or equivalent) screw in ball joint used by Chrysler from the early 1960s all the way up through the 1980s. Available at any parts store for about 30 bucks. Yours is obviously unscrewing itself from the UCA.

Jeff

[David Williamson]

I drilled a hole near the flat on the ball joint and used a roll pin to keep them from unscrewing. Others have used a tack weld or blue loctite
David W

[CraigS]

Also note that the UCAs attachment to the frame is steel on steel w/ grease fittings. I'd try to grease them first. Since it sat for quite a while, it is possible that they are dry or even rusted.

[ggunter]

I think I would find another alignment shop too. They obviously didn't bother to check anything over. i would take a close look at the threads in the A Arm too.

[rich grsc]

The ball joint is only unscrewed about 1/2 way. Just tighten it back up, you can get a socket for it at most auto parts store that rents tools

[weendoggy]

Those also look like the original UCA's and I'd think heavily on replacing those with SPC's. I'm guessing it's still using the "slide" method to get camber/caster set.

[Fe911]

The threads on the ball joint are in rougher condition in person than in the picture, like it was pushed out, not unthreaded. If the threads are bad, I'll replace the upper control arms. I'll try and get back to it soon, we had a cold snap and my garage is about 40 degrees right now. The quality of workmanship declines sharply with the current conditions... Thanks a Bunch, Ed !

[CraigS]

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This is the best investment in your garage you will ever make. I run mine from a BBQ propane tank. That tank is a backup for the BBQ in the summer. In the winter the BBQ tank is a backup for my heater. Be sure to get the version w/ a blower.

[efnfast]

I would also unbolt the spindle mount and make sure you can move the upper control arms freely - if they've bound up on the pivot points then uca mounting ears on the frame will be flexing and will eventually snap off