Some minor problems after 2nd test drive

[Cobraman]

Ok 2nd drive after brake balance bar adjustment and small clutch adjustment everything went well with those adjustments and I'm pleased with the results.

Problem 1 Speedometer not working after checking all the connections and making sure they were tight still not working not sure where to go from here probably back the electrical diagrams for some trouble shooting.

Have small oil leak coming from valve cover on driver's side between 7 and 8 retightened to 8ft pounds still leaking under rapid acceleration never at idle or just cruising around only on hard acceleration. Pulled cover off and changed gasket still have same problem. So here's my question I have pvc valve in opposite valve cover and just a vent filter in driver's side. I think I may switch valve covers on Monday and see if anything changes and put pvc valve in driver's side cover.
I guess there is the possibility that the crankcase pressure is high not sure.

Has anyone of you had this problem?

[gbranham]

Do you have a GPS speedometer, or mechanical?

[Cobraman]

I have the autometer gauges that come with the complete kit.

[gbranham]

The Platinum gauges? I believe that's a mechanical speedometer. Did you connect it to the speedometer sender you (presumably/hopefully) installed in your tranny? If you have a GPS speedometer, did you connect the GPS module to it, with a clear view to the sky? I placed mine here, and notched the aluminum footbox lid to accommodate it.

Greg

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[Cobraman]

The Platinum gauges? I believe that's a mechanical speedometer. Did you connect it to the speedometer sender you (presumably/hopefully) installed in your tranny? If you have a GPS speedometer, did you connect the GPS module to it, with a clear view to the sky? I placed mine here, and notched the aluminum footbox lid to accommodate it.

Greg

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It's electrical, and I hope I have the transmission in I've been driving it around for the last couple days working on all the little things.:confused::rolleyes:

I think I've figured it out after searching the fourm they have to be programed to work I'll have to get that done when I can actually drive it legally on a 2 mile straight to set it up. At least that's what I'm reading others have done.

Thanks Greg for all your help

[Cobraman]

This was posted by skullandbones in 2014


Don't know about the 200 mph model but I would think it would have a similar calibration procedure to the 160 version. They don't move until you calibrate them. You can start the calibration steps to see if you are getting power though. I remember calibrating mine right after I went to register my car since I didn't have a secure place with a 2 miles stretch to do it while I was illegal. It is a good feeling to see it work!

[BUDFIVE]

Cobraman,
My Autometer platinum speedometer worked (even uncalibrated) once wired correctly. See below link and a cut and paste from my build thread (post 51) when I got the speedometer working. Bottom line, If you haven’t grounded the gray wire try that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47734-BUDFIVE%92s-CenTex-Build-More-Driving-Impressions-Trailer-Work-Tie-Down-Tuning-Detai/page2

BUDFIVE build thread #51:
Speedometer Debug, Clutch &Gears
-2 wires in RF harness and connector to TKX electrical speed sending unit.
-Obvious RF green wire labeled “speedometer signal” goes to speedometer “sig” input. -Not obvious what to do with gray wire labeled “EFI-speedometer signal return”. With it left disconnected (I have a carb’s engine) the speedometer doesn’t move (after its initialization) with driveshaft spinning. After reviewing Forum posts —The gray wire must be grounded.
-Adjusted clutch height and release point as desired. Fun running through the gears-all seems good.

[Cobraman]

Cobraman,
My Autometer platinum speedometer worked (even uncalibrated) once wired correctly. See below link and a cut and paste from my build thread (post 51) when I got the speedometer working. Bottom line, If you haven’t grounded the gray wire try that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47734-BUDFIVE%92s-CenTex-Build-More-Driving-Impressions-Trailer-Work-Tie-Down-Tuning-Detai/page2

BUDFIVE build thread #51:
Speedometer Debug, Clutch &Gears
-2 wires in RF harness and connector to TKX electrical speed sending unit.
-Obvious RF green wire labeled “speedometer signal” goes to speedometer “sig” input. -Not obvious what to do with gray wire labeled “EFI-speedometer signal return”. With it left disconnected (I have a carb’s engine) the speedometer doesn’t move (after its initialization) with driveshaft spinning. After reviewing Forum posts —The gray wire must be grounded.
-Adjusted clutch height and release point as desired. Fun running through the gears-all seems good.

Ok my plug from my RF harness has both wires attached to plug if I understand you correctly I must cut and ground gray wire to chassis. That's not in any of the wiring instructions that I can see but what do I know it's my first build. Here is a pic of my connection.

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[Cobraman]

I definitely like your checklist proir to test drive it's a lot like mine test, test, test. Then drive.

[Blitzboy54]

Yes ground the grey wire. Your speedo will then work but read the wrong speed until calibrated. It’s one of those details that gets missed in the manuals.

[Cobraman]

Yes ground the grey wire. Your speedo will then work but read the wrong speed until calibrated. It’s one of those details that gets missed in the manuals.

Great I'll try this tomorrow thank you so much.

[BUDFIVE]

I definitely like your checklist proir to test drive it's a lot like mine test, test, test. Then drive.

If you’re referring to my checklists before gocart 1 and 2, thanks. Early in my 30 yrs of Engineering I was a test engineer and learned to develop test plans with unit test (sub system level) and system level test (full system) plans. I can’t help it :)

[rickster991]

My oil leak was caused by the spark plug wire holders. I suspected they were allowing the bolts to get to proper torque. I removed them, got shorter bolts, and tightened the bolts and it did the trick. Not sure if this is your issue. I have also seen some videos of people using load spreaders. Good luck.

[Cobraman]

My oil leak was caused by the spark plug wire holders. I suspected they were allowing the bolts to get to proper torque. I removed them, got shorter bolts, and tightened the bolts and it did the trick. Not sure if this is your issue. I have also seen some videos of people using load spreaders. Good luck.

I remember those on the chevy small blockengines it's worth a try thanks��

[ggunter]

As far as your oil leak goes, your valve cover should have a baffle under where the PVC hole is to keep excess oil from overcoming the PVC valve. Changing sides of the PVC valve shouldn't make any difference as it draws vapors across the engine internally form the fill cap side to the PVC side. Also, if the crankcase pressure is excessive under hard acceleration, (due to blow by) you usually find oil coming out around your fill cap too because it overwhelms the capacity of the PVC system. Is your PVC valve plumbed to direct manifold vacuum?

[Cobraman]

Yes manifold vacuum in back of carburetor
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