Remove/Install 302/TKX with Body ON

[Waterman]

Hi all, time to remove the tired 302 I installed temporarily to get MK4 on the road. Now after summer fun driving I have engine ready to come out but with body on this time. I used a nice 2T engine hoist and decent leveler to go in, with body off. Pretty ease with 2 guys. The hoist does not have enough reach from the front this time. I have heard some have done from the side but then you are moving hoist sideways and it will bend/sway. I have access to a fixed chain fall but then you have to move cobra so having rear in the air is more difficult. What have others done when body is on?? Tks

[Mike.Bray]

I bought some square tubing and made an extension. Added a few bags of play sand from Home Depot to the back for a counterbalance and it worked great.

Also found putting the car on wheel dollies and moving it vs. trying to move the hoist/engine was a lot easier.

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[CraigS]

Use either the hoist sideways or chain fall. Then jack the rear of the car w/ a floor jack coming in from the rear. Now move the car rearward as needed while the eng/trans stays stationary front to rear as it comes up.

[Waterman]

Thanks for the thoughts gents. I tried using the 2T hoist but not happy with front tire/wheel interference coming in from side. In the end we used the chain fall which required me moving some things around in the shop to make room for cobra. I DID cable tie the driveshaft in place to see if possible to install with driveshaft in place because I had difficultly installing after, originally. Worked. It was very tight to raise engine out of motor mounts and then forward enough to pass the driveshaft over rear frame crossmember but worked. Tranny is tight to the tunnel front crossmember. Using chain fall and moving car helped allow this small movements. Another issue we had was where to chain the engine. I chained to the rear of heads and then to the Jeff K type brackets in the front(front components already using those holes) but rear chains hit the body hard. Used a ratchet strap around water pump to pull the chains forward. On install I will use the header holes at the back. Minor challenges, part of the fun owning a built not bought auto.... Not me in pic. 220639220640

[JMD]

What's going back in it's place?

[TBull]

You can ask anyone in the Gateway Cobra club. I've done this more than anyone, but we've used the same cherry picker on multiple cars. Prepping is the key.

1.) Raise the back of the car as much as possible and safely lock down on stable Jack stands.
2.) you need to raise the front a little to allow hoist leg under the frame. Bring in floor jack on the PS around between the door and the sidepipe cutout. Raise the fame for the extended hoist legs. Block or support frame on the DS.
3.) Tape the body area at the back of the engine bay to protect against accidental rubbing.
4.) Cover front nose of car with blanket or moving quilt.
5.) I typically have a chain on mounted on the heads front and back and have the balancer as close to the carb / throttle body hole as possible. Carb/TB is removed
6.) Someone has to hold up the tail of the tranny and then let it dip into the tunnel. Bring the engine/tranny in and guide the tranny end down through the tunnel. You bring it in an inch at a time and then adjust height. Once the Oil pan is clear of the front and before the tail is under the tranny support position, someone under the car (Usually me) presses the tail up over the rear crossbar mount as it comes back.
7.) The motor should have the engine mounts finger installed finger tight before starting. Feed the motor mount slots into place.

We've done this numerous times. I've have engines into position or pulled out in 20 minutes or less once everything is prepped. Hope this helps