Header Bolt Fitment

[rponfick]

I was the eternal optimist as I approached my 4th build, being a Mk5, Blueprint 347", FFR headers. I tried to test fit the headers with the motor on the engine stand yesterday, as it is much easier to mock things up before engine install. After all these years you would think the headers would finally accept bolts without the sledgehammer, grinder, or whatever tool you have available.
Luckily on this build there is only one bolt on each header that will not go in because of header interference. You would think someone would learn a lesson and create just a tiny bit more clearance.
Are there any new suggestions and recommendations that have come along in the last few years?
Thanks, Ralph

[gbranham]

Are all your other bolts loose, meaning just grabbing threads? Also, consider header studs. Much easier to install gaskets and headers once the engine is installed. Guessing you've thought of all this, since you're a serial builder like me. Hah.

[rponfick]

Yes, all the other bolts can go in by hand, finger tight. Except two that do not have a straight line into the head due to header interference. I guess studs are an option.
Thanks, Ralph

[BornWestUSA]

Put the bolt that hits the header in first while holding the header away from the head, then put in the ones with no interference?

[rickster991]

I was able to get them all in. But needed to get this https://a.co/d/is4xmqz and grind it a bit to actually tighten them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51417-Rick-s-Mark-V-Roadster-Build&p=589225&viewfull=1#post589225

[rponfick]

Put the bolt that hits the header in first while holding the header away from the head, then put in the ones with no interference?

I have tried that and got one side in, but it took 3 hands to do it on the engine stand, and not sure how many it would take with the engine in the car. An option, but not a very elegant one.
Thanks, Ralph

[rponfick]

I was able to get them all in. But needed to get this https://a.co/d/is4xmqz and grind it a bit to actually tighten them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51417-Rick-s-Mark-V-Roadster-Build&p=589225&viewfull=1#post589225

Thanks Rick. I have all sorts of wrenches from my previous attempts. It is not a question of getting a wrench on the bolt, but the bolt not lining up with the head due to it impinging on the header. And possibility of cross threading.
Ralph

[Mike.Bray]

I used ARP 100-1404 header studs. I love studs, use them for just about everything. As Greg said slip your (Remflex) gasket on and then slide the header on.

Even with the studs there was one or two on each side that I couldn't get the nut on so I used ARP 100-1404 header bolts for these.

Other option if you can plan it is to use wide space heads and bolts where the bolt spacing is 3" instead of 2". I have the heads but not the headers for this:(

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-1404
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-400-1209

[Cobraman]

Wow, It must have been my lucky day a little antiseize and mine went in without any problems just had to use a box wrench on 7 and 8 the rest I was able to get a socket on with my universal and bame done in 30 minutes.

[rponfick]

Wow, It must have been my lucky day a little antiseize and mine went in without any problems just had to use a box wrench on 7 and 8 the rest I was able to get a socket on with my universal and bame done in 30 minutes.

I am extremely jealous, but glad it worked out for you. I am still cogitating.
Ralph

[Mike.Bray]

This is weird or I'm a lucky guy which isn't my style. I've had my headers off and on a few times and I swear I could throw them from across the room and they would pop right on.

[CraigS]

Try to find pics of a MkV w/ your engine installed before going to studs. I know on my old MkII w/ 351W (slightly wider than a 302) the driver footbox aluminum would not allow room for the header to slide in the over a stud. I have no idea how much room the MkV has there.