MK5 Coming *VERY* Soon - Recommendations & Tips

[GirlDad]

Okay folks, it's finally happening. I put in my order for an MK5 back in September. After doing a TON of research on the MK4, I made the decision to hold off once the MK5 was announced and see how that panned out. Well, the MK5 looks amazing... so here we are.

My kit will be ready to ship on 10/18 and probably arrive at my place in the PNW first or second week of November.

Some of the details:

Complete Kit
IRS
Wilwoods
Brake Booster
Power Steering
Heater & A/C
Dual chrome rollbars
Vintage GPS gauges
Visors
Wipers
SS Bumpers
Pretty much most options...

I'm working with Forte for a few other parts including having him build me a 351 stroker (so I can get that 427 badge) with EFI (Holley Dominator ECU).

With all of that said, most of my research was for the MK4. Now I'm looking at what additional upgrades or extra items I should get. I'm looking for any/all suggestions or recommendations. What I've had on the list:


Side pipe shields (limit the snake bites)
Drop Drunk (now included with the MK5)
FF Metal Firwall Forward (not yet available... and not sure if this is needed in the MK5)
FF Metal Transmission Top (this looks to be available for the MK5 now)
FF Metal F Panels (are these needed with the MK5 now, these panels are different but not sure)
Breeze Battery Kit
Breeze cockpit cubby
Breeze radiator shroud
Wilwood Electronic E-Brake
Heated seats
Driveshaft safety loop

Other considerations:

Mostly going to be a cruiser... with occasional track days
I'm planning on SS fuel and brake lines
4 post lift coming in a week (I know... cutting it close)
Was thinking about ABS as a fun wrinkle... but might be more pain than it's worth
Will not be painting it myself
Debating push button start
Debating various lighting upgrades/changes - headlights, taillights, interior lighting, etc.

Let me know your thoughts! Please include any/all other recommendations, tips, tool recommendations, etc. I'll pretty much consider everything. Once the kit lands, I'll start a build thread and keep anyone interested in following along up to speed on progress.

Thanks in advance for helping me along this adventure.

-Girl Dad

[edwardb]

I'm building a Mk5 30th Anniversary version. Build thread linked in my sig line below. Congratulations on your kit order. Looks like a very nice build. Some comments:

No on the Breeze battery kit. The Mk5 already has the battery in the front. The latest build manual shows a revised battery mount system that looks nice. Different than mine. I'm assuming your later build will have the new one.

No on the firewall forward. Mk5 is different plus I'd suggest it may not be needed anyway. One of the reasons for the firewall forward was to make room for a firewall mounted heater. The FF A/C heat system it looks like you've included mounts at the top of the RH footbox. Not on the firewall.

No on the F-panels. The Mk5 is radically different. A 2-piece setup that matches how the frame is configured in that area. One of the reasons for the different F-panels was to allow a tighter turn radius without the tires rubbing. Too soon for me to know if that's true for the Mk5. At some point, I'm going to try the 275's from my Coupe on the Mk5 and see how they fit. That's often the size people update to if there's room.

No on the Mk4 transmission cover. If there's a Mk5 version without the holes (my preference) that could work.

My kit came with LED headlights. I assume that's standard now? The kit already comes with LED square tail lights. The front running lights and license plate light are easily upgraded to LED with compatible bulbs. (1157 and BA9S).

Drop trunk included with the Mk5 as you mention.

Hope you have experience and the right tools to work with SS lines. I've done them on several builds. Like the result but it's some work. SS flex is now pretty common to use throughout on the fuel lines.

I'm not a huge fan of putting ABS on these builds. But your choice of course. I came from the automotive industry and know the amount of testing and customization that goes into those system that's specific to each car model. So that makes me skeptical. I've driven these cars for going onto 15 years now. They're fair weather cars (mostly) and have a lot of traction with the wide sticky tires. I've literally never felt that I should have had ABS.

Good luck and enjoy!

[Mike.Bray]

I have a Digital Dawg pushbutton start system with the FOB and it's a love/hate relationship. If I was doing it again I would do the marine version, on the automotive version you have to engage an interlock like clutch, brake, and/or neutral switch to start it and also to turn the engine off. That's a pain. The marine version doesn't do this.

Other option is just a key switch with a pushbutton for the starter.

Good luck with your build.

[Barwickad]

Congrats on the new kit, always great to see another WA state build. Reach out if you want to check out some recently finished cars or have questions. Theres a small group of us who stay in touch and have either just finished our builds or are close. Between us there are 5 MK4’s and a couple Coupes.

[Takis31gk]

Welcome to the club! My biggest suggestion is make sure you're organized. It can get overwhelming if you're not. Make friends with your local NAPA, O'Reilly's, or even Autozone store. They're gonna be your best friend during this build. And have the correct tools, I'm lucky to have an auto shop and a Snap-On truck show up every week, but that is not everyone's reality. Always reach out with questions, comments, and concerns. Enjoy the build process!

[nuhale]

Looks like a solid build plan. Just jump in and leverage the community when needed. Lots of amazing support here.

Only things I would recommend is Nicopp over stainless brake lines and consider the mustang 13" brake with 15+ IRS mustang brakes in place of wilwood. IMO the wilwoods are quite expensive and overkill. I used these on my current coupe build and have the fronts on my MK4 and are great. I used powerstop KC1304D fronts and K6812 Rear.

[GirlDad]

I'm building a Mk5 30th Anniversary version. Build thread linked in my sig line below. Congratulations on your kit order. Looks like a very nice build.
I'm following that build... and looked over (more like studied) your previous builds. I'm really appreciative of the detail you've provided as well as the continuing feedback/advice.


No on the Breeze battery kit. The Mk5 already has the battery in the front. The latest build manual shows a revised battery mount system that looks nice.
Awesome. That's good to know.


No on the firewall forward. Mk5 is different plus I'd suggest it may not be needed anyway. One of the reasons for the firewall forward was to make room for a firewall mounted heater. The FF A/C heat system it looks like you've included mounts at the top of the RH footbox. Not on the firewall.
Again, that's great news. I'm loving all of these improvements! Also, really appreciate the folks that went before me and the willingness of Factory Five to make modifications to the MK5 even over the past 6-9 months.


No on the F-panels. The Mk5 is radically different.
Yeah, I saw that in a previous build (perhaps yours?). Good to get that confirmation.


No on the Mk4 transmission cover. If there's a Mk5 version without the holes (my preference) that could work.
There is a MK5 version now. It's called out in RED text on their homepage. Same dimensions, no shifter hole: https://www.ffmetal.com/


My kit came with LED headlights. I assume that's standard now? The kit already comes with LED square tail lights. The front running lights and license plate light are easily upgraded to LED with compatible bulbs. (1157 and BA9S).
Good stuff. I'm a ways off from really having to deal with lighting, but it's always good to have it running around in the back of my head.



Hope you have experience and the right tools to work with SS lines. I've done them on several builds. Like the result but it's some work. SS flex is now pretty common to use throughout on the fuel lines.
Honestly, you're previous anniversary edition MK4 (I think it was that build) had the SS lines and it's what inspired me to do the same. I don't have all of the tools (yet) and have zero experience working with SS lines. So, maybe I stick with that plan or maybe I change it up. I noticed your latest posts with your fuel/brake lines and they look great. I'll probably keep this plan open a bit until I get to the point of running lines and make a game-time decision.


I'm not a huge fan of putting ABS on these builds. But your choice of course. I came from the automotive industry and know the amount of testing and customization that goes into those system that's specific to each car model. So that makes me skeptical. I've driven these cars for going onto 15 years now. They're fair weather cars (mostly) and have a lot of traction with the wide sticky tires. I've literally never felt that need to think I should have had ABS.
I hear ya. Totally get it. This is more of a "can I get it done" thing. Also, here in the PNW we deal with wetter roads more often than not. With the inclusion of the hopefully-soon-to-be-available hard top, I was hoping to have a few more extended days of driving where the ABS might be helpful. Again, not fully locked in on this plan.

[GirlDad]

I have a Digital Dawg pushbutton start system with the FOB and it's a love/hate relationship. If I was doing it again I would do the marine version, on the automotive version you have to engage an interlock like clutch, brake, and/or neutral switch to start it and also to turn the engine off. That's a pain. The marine version doesn't do this.

Other option is just a key switch with a pushbutton for the starter.

Good luck with your build.
Good tips there. Appreciate it. I think I might be leaning more towards the key switch with a pushbutton, but if I go the FOB route, I'll definitely take this advice and ensure I can get around the interlock issues.

[GirlDad]

Congrats on the new kit, always great to see another WA state build. Reach out if you want to check out some recently finished cars or have questions. Theres a small group of us who stay in touch and have either just finished our builds or are close. Between us there are 5 MK4’s and a couple Coupes.

Love that! My daughters play softball so I'm down your way quite a bit. I'm sure I'll have some questions for you when it gets time for titling. Plus, it'd be great to see a few more completed cars. There's a few guys I met on FB earlier this year with one guy in the early stages of his MK4 build.

[GirlDad]

Welcome to the club! My biggest suggestion is make sure you're organized. It can get overwhelming if you're not. Make friends with your local NAPA, O'Reilly's, or even Autozone store. They're gonna be your best friend during this build. And have the correct tools, I'm lucky to have an auto shop and a Snap-On truck show up every week, but that is not everyone's reality. Always reach out with questions, comments, and concerns. Enjoy the build process!

Good stuff. Thanks! I'm currently in the "clear out the garage" phase so I can get some cleared out shelves and storage... which will most likely be promptly filled up with tools.

[GirlDad]

Looks like a solid build plan. Just jump in and leverage the community when needed. Lots of amazing support here.

Only things I would recommend is Nicopp over stainless brake lines and consider the mustang 13" brake with 15+ IRS mustang brakes in place of wilwood. IMO the wilwoods are quite expensive and overkill. I used these on my current coupe build and have the fronts on my MK4 and are great. I used powerstop KC1304D fronts and K6812 Rear.

Thanks for the tips. Regarding "overkill", my approach has pretty much been "what's overkill for this build and how can I get 2". :) Luckily for me I have a supportive wife that is fine with that approach (so far).

[Takis31gk]

Good stuff. Thanks! I'm currently in the "clear out the garage" phase so I can get some cleared out shelves and storage... which will most likely be promptly filled up with tools.

Perfect! Use the best quality tools you can afford. Don't be afraid to go to your nearest Harbor Freight either. They have some decent tools and shop equipment as well.

[Takis31gk]

Looks like a solid build plan. Just jump in and leverage the community when needed. Lots of amazing support here.

Only things I would recommend is Nicopp over stainless brake lines and consider the mustang 13" brake with 15+ IRS mustang brakes in place of wilwood. IMO the wilwoods are quite expensive and overkill. I used these on my current coupe build and have the fronts on my MK4 and are great. I used powerstop KC1304D fronts and K6812 Rear.

I went with the 13" rear brakes out of a 2018 GT Mustang and 13" front brakes out of an SN-95 SVT Cobra for ease of part replacement and price. Wilwood's are nice, but I agree, are a bit overkill.

[JimStone]

Regarding SS lines:

I was never able to create double flares without small cracks in the flares. Even with the Eastwood flaring tool. So I pivoted to single 37 degree flares with hard-line AN nuts and sleeves which worked great and I had a perfect flare every time. Just make sure to use all steel nuts and fittings (no aluminum, at least for the brake lines). And don't accidentally mismatch 37 and 45 degree connections.

I also used this lapping tool to really get the flare surfaces as perfect as possible: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/KTS-P37


I'd recommend against buying coiled SS tube. You won't be happy after trying to make it straight again. I know finding straight lengths can be difficult. I bought 6 ft straight lengths from Inline Tube 1 year ago, shipped to my door at a good price. But I see now, their website says they put "shipping bends" in anything more than 24". I'd call to confirm that because I wonder if that's really true.


https://www.inlinetube.com/products/ss3166

[Jeff Kleiner]

I went with the 13" rear brakes out of a 2018 GT Mustang and 13" front brakes out of an SN-95 SVT Cobra for ease of part replacement and price. Wilwood's are nice, but I agree, are a bit overkill.

I've said many times that except for all out track use I consider the Wilwoods to be "jewelry" however when specifying my Mk5 Dave Smith called me after I submitted my initial order form and said "take another pass at the option list and check some more boxes". So I did, and in doing so I went ahead and checked the Wilwood boxes but when the car arrived somehow they had been overlooked. Since the Wilwoods weren't something that I was dead set on having I just built with the 13" Ford brakes all around. Either way you'll have more brakes than you have traction!

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

Regarding SS lines:

I was never able to create double flares without small cracks in the flares. Even with the Eastwood flaring tool. So I pivoted to single 37 degree flares with hard-line AN nuts and sleeves which worked great and I had a perfect flare every time. Just make sure to use all steel nuts and fittings (no aluminum, at least for the brake lines). And don't accidentally mismatch 37 and 45 degree connections.

I also used this lapping tool to really get the flare surfaces as perfect as possible: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/KTS-P37


I'd recommend against buying coiled SS tube. You won't be happy after trying to make it straight again. I know finding straight lengths can be difficult. I bought 6 ft straight lengths from Inline Tube 1 year ago, shipped to my door at a good price. But I see now, their website says they put "shipping bends" in anything more than 24". I'd call to confirm that because I wonder if that's really true.


https://www.inlinetube.com/products/ss3166

Same here, all I've ever done is 37 degree AN flares on SS tube as I suck at making 45 degree double flares. Here's my thread on SS tubes https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45694-Stainless-Steel-AN-Brake-Lines

Not sure why the images have dropped off, I'll dig into that.

I believe Earl's still sell straight lengths and Summit have them. That's what I used.

[GirlDad]

Regarding SS lines:

I was never able to create double flares without small cracks in the flares. Even with the Eastwood flaring tool. So I pivoted to single 37 degree flares with hard-line AN nuts and sleeves which worked great and I had a perfect flare every time. Just make sure to use all steel nuts and fittings (no aluminum, at least for the brake lines). And don't accidentally mismatch 37 and 45 degree connections.

I also used this lapping tool to really get the flare surfaces as perfect as possible: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/KTS-P37

Thanks for the tips Jim. I'm going to heavily reconsider SS lines and watch Paul's MK5 build to see how things pan out there. I love the look of the SS lines, but I'm 1/10th of a percent of Paul's skills. That said, I probably have a few months to explore and think this over.


I'd recommend against buying coiled SS tube. You won't be happy after trying to make it straight again. I know finding straight lengths can be difficult. I bought 6 ft straight lengths from Inline Tube 1 year ago, shipped to my door at a good price. But I see now, their website says they put "shipping bends" in anything more than 24". I'd call to confirm that because I wonder if that's really true.


https://www.inlinetube.com/products/ss3166
I totally agree that trying to straighten things out will be a pain. I know it's doable, but I've seen/heard of mixed reviews. We'll see how it goes. I might end up doing some test runs when the time comes.

[GirlDad]

I've said many times that except for all out track use I consider the Wilwoods to be "jewelry" however when specifying my Mk5 Dave Smith called me after I submitted my initial order form and said "take another pass at the option list and check some more boxes". So I did, and in doing so I went ahead and checked the Wilwood boxes but when the car arrived somehow they had been overlooked. Since the Wilwoods weren't something that I was dead set on having I just built with the 13" Ford brakes all around. Either way you'll have more brakes than you have traction!

Jeff

But I like jewelry, Jeff. :) More important though, my daughters love jewelry. I've been sharing the build plans, pictures, etc. with them. Oddly enough, the Wilwoods seem to be one of the things they're drawn to. I wasn't going for the red calipers either, but they wanted to have them on there. /shrug/ So, I'll kick in the overkill cash to help keep their interest. If I'm lucky, I can get a little more wrenching time out of them too.

[GirlDad]

Just talked with Cunningham/Stewart transport. Looks like my kit is going to arrive a little early. I was planning for something like the second week of November... but as luck would have it, it'll be here around Halloween. I really need to get this garage together.

[Myron Nelson]

You asked for advice but you probably won't like what I'm about to say.
For reference, I am 70% done 70% to go on a MK5 with Coyote. A/C PB PS
IMO a four post lift is a huge waste of money and effort. Working under the car on standard jack stands on a nice creeper with recline is very comfortable and able to accomplish anything you need to do. Reaching up over your head while standing gets tiresome.
Invest in clecoes, cleco pliers, and a scotch- bright wheel on a cheap grinder motor on a stand. You’ll use it a ton because a lot of parts need deburring.
Good luck.

[edwardb]

You asked for advice but you probably won't like what I'm about to say.
For reference, I am 70% done 70% to go on a MK5 with Coyote. A/C PB PS
IMO a four post lift is a huge waste of money and effort. Working under the car on standard jack stands on a nice creeper with recline is very comfortable and able to accomplish anything you need to do. Reaching up over your head while standing gets tiresome.
Invest in clecoes, cleco pliers, and a scotch- bright wheel on a cheap grinder motor on a stand. You’ll use it a ton because a lot of parts need deburring.
Good luck.

Everybody has their own reality, right? I have a 2-post lift (not going to get into the 2-post vs. 4-post discussion...) and I wouldn't be in the hobby any more without it. My back won't take it. It's not just about working under the car. It's also about always having the work at a comfortable level without having to bend over unnecessarily. I probably change the height more while working on the top side compared to working underneath. I built a couple cars only on jack stands so I know exactly what you're saying. But the lift has kept me in the game. No right or wrong answer here. Everyone's situation is different.

[GirlDad]

You asked for advice but you probably won't like what I'm about to say.
For reference, I am 70% done 70% to go on a MK5 with Coyote. A/C PB PS
IMO a four post lift is a huge waste of money and effort. Working under the car on standard jack stands on a nice creeper with recline is very comfortable and able to accomplish anything you need to do. Reaching up over your head while standing gets tiresome.
Invest in clecoes, cleco pliers, and a scotch- bright wheel on a cheap grinder motor on a stand. You’ll use it a ton because a lot of parts need deburring.
Good luck.

I'll take any and all advice. I'm always appreciative of people's opinions and thoughts. It can give an alternate perspective that perhaps I'm not looking at. In this case though, I've looked into all of the arguments (2-post vs 4-post, is a lift necessary or not, etc.). For me, I'm getting a 4-post to help with storage as well as improving maintenance on a few other vehicles. I'm not getting the lift only for the build, but I think it'll come in handy in a few key phases of the build. Combined with the other needs, I think that this makes sense for me. Also, FWIW, I'm a gadgets guy and this seemed like a fun (although expensive) gadget to have.

Regarding your other points... good stuff there. I'll probably go cleco crazy and throw a bunch in. Love the tip on deburring too.

[hufferc]

Just talked with Cunningham/Stewart transport. Looks like my kit is going to arrive a little early. I was planning for something like the second week of November... but as luck would have it, it'll be here around Halloween. I really need to get this garage together.

Can I ask what they quoted you? They quoted me $1900 to ship to Indiana. Does that sound in line with others' experience?
My MK 5 kit arrives Mid November, probably!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Can I ask what they quoted you? They quoted me $1900 to ship to Indiana. Does that sound in line with others' experience?
My MK 5 kit arrives Mid November, probably!

Although in the end other arrangements were made for my Mk5 delivery but last November Stewart quoted me $1,800 to Bloomington, Indiana.

Jeff

[GirlDad]

Can I ask what they quoted you? They quoted me $1900 to ship to Indiana. Does that sound in line with others' experience?
My MK 5 kit arrives Mid November, probably!

All in, I was at about $2600 to get all the way to the Seattle area.

[TrackDay17]

Can I ask what they quoted you? They quoted me $1900 to ship to Indiana. Does that sound in line with others' experience?
My MK 5 kit arrives Mid November, probably!

My kit is due the first week of November, $2100 to KC.

[StewPididiot]

I'll take any and all advice. I'm always appreciative of people's opinions and thoughts. It can give an alternate perspective that perhaps I'm not looking at. In this case though, I've looked into all of the arguments (2-post vs 4-post, is a lift necessary or not, etc.). For me, I'm getting a 4-post to help with storage as well as improving maintenance on a few other vehicles. I'm not getting the lift only for the build, but I think it'll come in handy in a few key phases of the build. Combined with the other needs, I think that this makes sense for me. Also, FWIW, I'm a gadgets guy and this seemed like a fun (although expensive) gadget to have.

Regarding your other points... good stuff there. I'll probably go cleco crazy and throw a bunch in. Love the tip on deburring too.


We got the Breeze radiator tubes. They sure look and function better than the ones that came with our MKIV complete kit.

[rickster991]

Research ball joint covers. Mine failed when I added grease! I had to pop them out and replace with Energy Suspension. I am a novice. My thread has a lot of mistakes I made… :)

[GirlDad]

We got the Breeze radiator tubes. They sure look and function better than the ones that came with our MKIV complete kit.

Thanks! I'll look into that!

[GirlDad]

Research ball joint covers. Mine failed when I added grease! I had to pop them out and replace with Energy Suspension.

I've read about that from a few other forum members. I'm taking a note now and will definitely look into it more when I get to that step.


I am a novice. My thread has a lot of mistakes I made… :)

Hahahaha. Love this. I'm 100% in the same boat. I started my inventory today and with Box 1 immediately said "I don't know what any of these parts are". :) Fun times!

[D Stand]

Good luck with the build. I am jealous of the new lift. I am in Bothell with an MKIV, driving it without paint, if you want to compare notes…

[acmikee]

have you lined up a painter yet

[D Stand]

have you lined up a painter yet

Nope. Just starting my search

[shawrod]

All in, I was at about $2600 to get all the way to the Seattle area.

My price was $2600 to get it to N. Cali

[StewPididiot]

Nope. Just starting my search

Ken Pike in Yuba City/Marysville does fantastic work. It's expensive, but your car will look incredible.