For the Electrical Gurus - Which I am Not

[PNWTim]

I am in the process of working my way through my wiring, integrating the components and figuring out how to meld old and new technologies together as seamlessly as I can manage. With that said, here is a picture of my roughed in dash:

220203

My AC and heater controls will be managed by the three switches on the far right. I have the AC and Fan portion squared away but looking to see what my options are for the heater control valve i.e. the temp rotary switch. I do not want to use a rotary switch if I can avoid it. So these are my ideas - please confirm, shoot holes or otherwise offer alternate suggestions:

1. Somehow find a toggle switch that operates like a rotary switch but instead of rotating around it's center it would move up and down as though it was a toggle but control the valve in a linear fashion.
2. Use a three position switch to control the valve. Off is no heat, position one is some heat and position two is full heat. Not an ideal solution but probably workable.
3. Or perhaps a better idea I haven't thought of yet?

My main objective is to maintain the look without sacrificing functionality if possible. Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts, comments and ideas.

[burchfieldb]

I used a linear sliding potentiometer on mine to move away from the rotary. If you wanted to do a 3 position switch, maybe you could put a resistors inline at those set values of the rotary pot for each switch position.

Brent

[Papa]

Tim,

Take a look at this:

Gen II Slide Potentiometer Switch For Servo Heater Valve - 11212-SUA - Affordable Street Rods https://share.google/Q63T74PKkJsQKSJXO

Or ...

https://vintageair.com/upgrade-3-lever-gen-iv-5-proline-horizontal-control-panel-with-polished-bezel-and-knobs/

Dave

[PNWTim]

Both good ideas guys. I actually have a similar Vintage Air unit in my Camaro - it's really nice. I guess I am really wanting something that looks like a toggle switch but acts like a sliding or rotating potentiometer. It may be unobtanium but you just never know. There's a lot of stuff out there that constantly surprises me.

Brent - would this entail using a multimeter to measure the resistance at say half open and all the way open? Then solder those value resisters between the switch ear on the toggle and each of the two wires going back to the controller? The pot has three ears and three connections to the controller so this would make sense to me.

I probably won't ever use the heater except early spring and late fall. I don't really plan to drive the car but rarely in the winter. They sand and spray here so there is a lot of road grime starting next month.

[TTimmy]

Let me pose another option for consideration - I did this on my roadster. You could somehow put (hide) the knobs on the underside of the dash. In my case they were not visible but they were still very accessible.

[PNWTim]

Let me pose another option for consideration - I did this on my roadster. You could somehow put (hide) the knobs on the underside of the dash. In my case they were not visible but they were still very accessible.

I thought about that early on but I am kind of committed to mounting them in the dash.

[PNWTim]

I just measured the resistance of the pot that came with the kit. Looks like zero to 1923 ohms. So I'm thinking I can add a 1000 ohm resistor to position one which open the control valve ~ half way (assuming the solenoid works in a linear fashion). No resistor on the 3rd position which would open it the remainder. Functionally ending up with no heat or cold, warm, hot. I know this is a gross over simplification but I am thinking this might work. I am going to reach out to the manufacturer as well and make sure this is doable before I fry the controller.

[burchfieldb]

Both good ideas guys. I actually have a similar Vintage Air unit in my Camaro - it's really nice. I guess I am really wanting something that looks like a toggle switch but acts like a sliding or rotating potentiometer. It may be unobtanium but you just never know. There's a lot of stuff out there that constantly surprises me.

Brent - would this entail using a multimeter to measure the resistance at say half open and all the way open? Then solder those value resisters between the switch ear on the toggle and each of the two wires going back to the controller? The pot has three ears and three connections to the controller so this would make sense to me.

I probably won't ever use the heater except early spring and late fall. I don't really plan to drive the car but rarely in the winter. They sand and spray here so there is a lot of road grime starting next month.

That was my thought. When I measure the resistance on mine I get 10kohm.
220251

[narly1]

I think this is what you need:

https://www.homemade-circuits.com/single-push-10-step-selector-switch/

You can then use a momentary toggle switch to cycle through the various blower speeds.

Earl

[PNWTim]

Thanks Earl. I will check that out.

Dave - for whatever reason your response on the digital pot disappeared out of my thread but I did a little investigation and that may be the ticket. You can get single channel ones for $12 so it might be worth playing with.

[Papa]

Thanks Earl. I will check that out.

Dave - for whatever reason your response on the digital pot disappeared out of my thread but I did a little investigation and that may be the ticket. You can get single channel ones for $12 so it might be worth playing with.

Tim,

I deleted my post after realizing that the example I was looking at required a computer to interface with. There are quite a few digital options that might work if you want to build a PCB ... maybe a bridge too far.

Dave

[PNWTim]

Tim,

I deleted my post after realizing that the example I was looking at required a computer to interface with. There are quite a few digital options that might work if you want to build a PCB ... maybe a bridge too far.

Dave

Well, good to know. I was having that over 60 conversation in my head of "I didn't imagine that did I?" followed by "I hope this isn't indicative of short term memory loss". You know, the usual. The good new is, there are lots of those digital pots out there that do require a digital signal but that can be arranged pretty easily.