small block oil pan

[azbruin]

Having my engine rebuilt and the builder wants to know if I need to keep the double sump pan. He would rather use a single.

BTW, my kit is scheduled for completion tomorrow! I can hardly wait.

[Gumball]

I used a Canton 7 qt. street pan with front sump. You can use the double sump, but the single front looks pretty cool. My pan is just level with the bottom of the 4" round cross tube in front of it.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/347OilPanSide.jpg

[Joe]

Do you have any expectation at all of auto-crossing, tracking or drag racing the car? If so I would recommend putting on a road race pan now, rather than later like me. I just purchased the Levy Racing Rear Sump pan and plan to install it in a few days. It would have been soooo much easier to install with the engine on the stand.

http://levyracing.com/

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii202/BurlesonCobra/IMAG0172.jpg

[azbruin]

my car will strictly be a fair weather cruiser. The builder thinks the steering rack and crossmembers are out of the way in the roadster but wanted to be sure.

[Joe]

The stock oil pan will be very close to hanging below the frame. I used Energy Suspension engine mounts and the drain plug is all that hangs below the frame. The steering rack and frame are non-issues..

[Olli]

Anyone have a favorite oil pan gasket. I just used the one piece Fel Pro OS13260T. I put it up dry, i.e. no RTV around the rear main cap saddle or around the timing cover. It looks like I have some dripping after the engine gets warm from around the rear main saddle. I plan on dropping the pan and using some RTV . Thoughts? Suggestions?

Olli

[MPTech]

Any Pros / Cons to front vs. rear sump? (do you need to replace the pickup for a rear sump?)

[Joe]

Rear sump..

Levy's pan comes with the rear sump pickup tube and dipstick. Front sump vs. Rear sump is debatable for road racing if you have clearance for either one. For serious drag racing you would want rear sump since all the oil is going to move to the rear. I think the most important thing is to have baffles that will close and keep the oil at the pickup during high Gs.

[Olli]

Just to add, I am using the Levy/Champ pan....

Olli

[Joe]

Anyone have a favorite oil pan gasket. I just used the one piece Fel Pro OS13260T. I put it up dry, i.e. no RTV around the rear main cap saddle or around the timing cover. It looks like I have some dripping after the engine gets warm from around the rear main saddle. I plan on dropping the pan and using some RTV . Thoughts? Suggestions?

Olli


Levy told me to put a bead of RTV on both sides of the gasket and to use the Felpro one piece rubber gasket. At a minimum, RTV needs to go up at the top corner of each saddle.

Fel-Pro - Oil Pan Gasket Set

Part # OS34508R http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/fel/os34508r_top.jpg



I'm going to be doing the install this weekend if everything works out like I have planned. Be sure to tighten the bolts from the center out. You can not use the Ford Mustang pan bolts, they are too long and bottom out before the pan is fully seated if your OEM pan had the reinforcement brackets. I've also read that many people allow the RTV to harden for 24 hrs. before adding oil.

What year engine set up are you running? The Felpro number that you posted seems to be for an older 302. I'm not sure about the differences, but there is definitely a different gasket for an 87-95 Mustang 302..

Good luck..

Joe - -

[Olli]

The block is a '72. I did put a dab of RTV in the corners where the tabs are on either side of the bearing saddle and the timing cover seal areas ( so it didn't go in completely dry, my fault for not being clear on that).

The pan gasket that the engine builder used was a Ford one piece. F5TE-6710 CB. It seemed to fit better. Especially around the saddle areas. But I couldn't get it out cleanly enough to be able to reuse it. It was RTV'd areound the bearing saddle and the timing cover seal areas. I should have the Ford gasket tomorrow. The Ford gasket did not leak previously. The 2 piece rear seal did though and that is why I had to drop the oil pan.

Olli

[Someday I Suppose]

Olli, I used a one piece on mine and then the right stuff gasket maker on it as well. I know the one I took off from Jeremy has gasket maker on both sides as well.

-Scott

[edwardb]

I've installed three of that same Fel-Pro pan gasket. Put a dab of sealant down into the corners where the little tab fits, and in the groove over the bearing blocks. The rest should be dry. The Fel-Pro instructions are pretty adamant about installing it dry. I've never had a hint of a leak. Several key points to making sure it doesn't leak: Mating surfaces on block, timing cover and pan are perfectly clean. Make sure all the old gasket is out of the corners by the bearing blocks. Real easy for some or all of the tab to get broken when removing the old gasket, and then the new won't go in all the way. Make sure the pan is flat and hasn't been damaged through over-tightening. Real easy to do especially with an OEM one. Install the mounting screws and torque in multiple steps from the center out (as mentioned) and don't overtighten. I don't remember the torque value, but it's in the instructions and not a lot. I use a small 1/4 inch socket wrench with an extension, and just twist it with one hand. With my office hardened body and grip, that's about the right torque.

BTW, I used a front sump Milidon pan with mine, and a Canton windage tray. The Milidon pan isn't anything fancy. OEM capacity, but does have baffles for the pickup. My car is 100% street use, so should be fine. For your mechanic friend worrying about front or rear sump, suspension and steering gear interference, don't worry about it. The pan is wide open on the Roadster. The complete engine is well behind any of those components.

[rich grsc]

Just picked this up, going on a new build.
8073
8074

[MPTech]

Very cool Rich. Who makes it? Where did you get it and how much?
I was looking this afternoon and see the oil plug hanging below the frame rails. That really concerns me.

[Gopher]

I went with Levy's pan . The biggest thing was it took six weeks to get.It does seem to fit well. I did need to bump it out to clear the four bolt main caps .Its level with the bottom of the four inch frame rails with the supplied motor mounts from FF.

[Gumball]

Here's a direct frontal photo of the underside of my car taken with the camera held about ground level - the bottom of the 7 qt. Canton pan is fully concealed behind the 4" cross-tube.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/Undercar1.jpg