First Body Fit - for Seats

[NA5KAR]

Here is where it started ... I bought the Breeze adjustable seat kit, and the instructions, as well as several wise Forum members, advise placing the body on the frame to properly fit the seats. I have to admit that my son and it were excited to see the body on the car for the first time since we took delivery. It would have been smart if we bothered to watch a couple videos about the best way to do it, but we thought 'how hard can it be'? We were wrong. It's not hard if you do it the right way. Anyway, after getting it on the chassis, we moved it around until it seemed like it was connecting at all the right points. The attached pics will show you how we actually did. Not proud of this at all.

Here are the problems we noticed right away, and also some things you should know to maybe offer guidance if you are so inclined.

The body touches both front tires, but the back tires look centered in the wheel well.
The back wheel well is a ridiculous distance from the top of the tires.
The body at the rear of the cockpit does not overlap the aluminum back cockpit wall.
The dashboard part of the body is pressing hard on the dashboard. I did not trim the body for the dashboard yet.
The trunk aluminum, both large side vertical panels and the lower horizontal panel that touches the body at the bottom of the trunk are touching the body. No movement forward allowed.

Here are some clues:
I installed the Breeze cockpit cubby. I have the bulb seal on the top of the panel.
As mentioned, I did not trim the dashboard area of the body.
The upper A arms of the front suspension look like I adjusted them 'forward'?

That's all I've got. I would be grateful for observations, opinions, and even ridicule. We did watch body install videos in the end, but we're still lost. We even said out loud, "maybe this is a Mk3 body'? Thanks for your help!




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[cv2065]

Looks like you didn’t get the body completely over the quick jack mounts in the front. There is definitely a ‘technique’ to getting the body on. I had two helpers. Myself and one other at the front and back, then another in the middle pulling out the sides. I had nose down until the front of the body got over the front mounts, middle person pulled sides out which settled the body down then rear person let the rear down and pulled the body back and over the rear trunk lip. Then adjust.

Some get it done running solo with straps but I prefer a crew. :D. Don’t forget the middle brace.

[Indy Shu]

I’ll get you started. Your upper A arms are adjusted backwards. The short arm should be in the rear and the long in front.

[NA5KAR]

I’ll get you started. Your upper A arms are adjusted backwards. The short arm should be in the rear and the long in front.

Thanks John. I figured that that was my first problem. That's why I took those pics. Thanks for the verification!

[NA5KAR]

Looks like you didn’t get the body completely over the quick jack mounts in the front. There is definitely a ‘technique’ to getting the body on. I had two helpers. Myself and one other at the front and back, then another in the middle pulling out the sides. I had nose down until the front of the body got over the front mounts, middle person pulled sides out which settled the body down then rear person let the rear down and pulled the body back and over the rear trunk lip. Then adjust.

Some get it done running solo with straps but I prefer a crew. :D. Don’t forget the middle brace.

Appreciate the breakdown. I thought that we had it in front of the quick jacks, but we didn't start out with it there. I do have a center brace. When we took the body off, it was me and my son (front & back) and my wife peeling the sides. Came right off.

[CraigS]

A general comment that I hope others will provide more detail. You lower the front of the body first. It has to be forward of the quick jack braces so the very bottom can go under them and then the entire body can move rearward an inch or 2. Now you can start lowering the rear of the body w/ your helper pulling out the sides. No need for any insulation on the trunk aluminum. You want the body to drop onto the aluminum so you can check how it fits the edges and scribe trim lines onto the panels. You may not do all your trimming in one step. Trim here, it drops further and hits at a different spot, trim there, etc, etc. You are looking for something like a 3/8" gap aluminum to body to allow room for the bulb seal edge trim. I like to scribe the underside of the roll over at the dash. You want maybe 1/4" clearance to the dash and you can end up w/ a nice parallel gap by scribing and then trimming when the body is off next time. Look for threads showing pics of the body compared to the door latch area to indicate proper fore/aft location.

[Jeff Kleiner]

As has been mentioned your front UCAs are adjusted backwards. Here is an initial setting that will get you real close until you get it aligned:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220173&d=1666032431

You'll need to trim the cowl lip 1/4" or more to allow the body to come forward. When the body is in the correct position the edge of the door opening flange will be 1/8"-1/4" ahead of the striker tab on the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220174&d=1571711049

When the body comes forward the rear wall aluminum should clear however while trimming the front cowl lip you can also trim the rear lip and clean up the cut.

Although I haven't had to trim the rear trunk floor lip or the vertical portion of the trunk sides for quite a while it is sometimes necessary in order to allow the body to move forward. Take the bulb seal off of the top of the cubby for now---after you have the body properly positioned you can check to see if there's clearance, make adjustments if necessary and then install it next time the body is off.

If the body is in the right position and fully down the gap above the rear tires is strictly a function of ride height. Also, it looks like the rear tires are actually sitting rearward of the center of the wheel opening...when you move the body forward they will be even moreso. When I see this it always indicates that the upper link is adjusted too long which in addition to affecting the rear wheel placement will also throw your pinion angle out of whack. Position the body correctly, set ride height and then set the pinion angle.

Do all of this and then let us know how it worked out.

Jeff

[NA5KAR]

A general comment that I hope others will provide more detail. You lower the front of the body first. It has to be forward of the quick jack braces so the very bottom can go under them and then the entire body can move rearward an inch or 2. Now you can start lowering the rear of the body w/ your helper pulling out the sides. No need for any insulation on the trunk aluminum. You want the body to drop onto the aluminum so you can check how it fits the edges and scribe trim lines onto the panels. You may not do all your trimming in one step. Trim here, it drops further and hits at a different spot, trim there, etc, etc. You are looking for something like a 3/8" gap aluminum to body to allow room for the bulb seal edge trim. I like to scribe the underside of the roll over at the dash. You want maybe 1/4" clearance to the dash and you can end up w/ a nice parallel gap by scribing and then trimming when the body is off next time. Look for threads showing pics of the body compared to the door latch area to indicate proper fore/aft location.

Thanks Craig. I will search for more body fit threads

[NA5KAR]

As has been mentioned your front UCAs are adjusted backwards. Here is an initial setting that will get you real close until you get it aligned:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220173&d=1666032431

You'll need to trim the cowl lip 1/4" or more to allow the body to come forward. When the body is in the correct position the edge of the door opening flange will be 1/8"-1/4" ahead of the striker tab on the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220174&d=1571711049

When the body comes forward the rear wall aluminum should clear however while trimming the front cowl lip you can also trim the rear lip and clean up the cut.

Although I haven't had to trim the rear trunk floor lip or the vertical portion of the trunk sides for quite a while it is sometimes necessary in order to allow the body to move forward. Take the bulb seal off of the top of the cubby for now---after you have the body properly positioned you can check to see if there's clearance, make adjustments if necessary and then install it next time the body is off.

If the body is in the right position and fully down the gap above the rear tires is strictly a function of ride height. Also, it looks like the rear tires are actually sitting rearward of the center of the wheel opening...when you move the body forward they will be even moreso. When I see this it always indicates that the upper link is adjusted too long which in addition to affecting the rear wheel placement will also throw your pinion angle out of whack. Position the body correctly, set ride height and then set the pinion angle.

Do all of this and then let us know how it worked out.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I appreciate the measurements. First project on Saturday! I will trim the necessary areas (slightly) before placing the body again. As for rear wheel position, I have the 4 link solid rear axle. Not to sound like a complete beginner, but I am not aware of adjustments available for the this setup. Are you referring to IRS?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks Jeff. I appreciate the measurements. First project on Saturday! I will trim the necessary areas (slightly) before placing the body again. As for rear wheel position, I have the 4 link solid rear axle. Not to sound like a complete beginner, but I am not aware of adjustments available for the this setup. Are you referring to IRS?

No, sorry I made the incorrect assumption that you had a 3 link because it seems that almost no one is building with 4 link any more. So yeah, you are locked in unless you use adjustable upper arms.

Jeff

[NA5KAR]

No, sorry I made the incorrect assumption that you had a 3 link because it seems that almost no one is building with 4 link any more. So yeah, you are locked in unless you use adjustable upper arms.

Jeff

No worries. I'm glad I asked you, otherwise I would be under the car looking for something that wasn't there. When I bought my kit in 2018, I sat with Tony Zullo in Wareham to pick my options. He offered a deal on the 4 link, so I grabbed it.

[Ducky2009]

While the body is on, hold the dash in place, hold a marker against the dash and draw a line on the front cowl lip, from side to side. NOT saying that this is where to cut, but just giving you a straight line in relation to the dash for when you're ready to trim. My front cowl lip was nowhere near a straight line when received. Will you see this area when sitting in the car, no. Are you (ME) OCD.... lol

[NA5KAR]

While the body is on, hold the dash in place, hold a marker against the dash and draw a line on the front cowl lip, from side to side. NOT saying that this is where to cut, but just giving you a straight line in relation to the dash for when you're ready to trim. My front cowl lip was nowhere near a straight line when received. Will you see this area when sitting in the car, no. Are you (ME) OCD.... lol

Thanks David. Actually, it's CDO (alphabetical for us severely afflicted). The dash is mounted, but I will be careful to scribe a straight line first, and remove a tiny amount. Appreciate the message.

[NA5KAR]

As has been mentioned your front UCAs are adjusted backwards. Here is an initial setting that will get you real close until you get it aligned:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220173&d=1666032431

You'll need to trim the cowl lip 1/4" or more to allow the body to come forward. When the body is in the correct position the edge of the door opening flange will be 1/8"-1/4" ahead of the striker tab on the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220174&d=1571711049

When the body comes forward the rear wall aluminum should clear however while trimming the front cowl lip you can also trim the rear lip and clean up the cut.

Although I haven't had to trim the rear trunk floor lip or the vertical portion of the trunk sides for quite a while it is sometimes necessary in order to allow the body to move forward. Take the bulb seal off of the top of the cubby for now---after you have the body properly positioned you can check to see if there's clearance, make adjustments if necessary and then install it next time the body is off.

If the body is in the right position and fully down the gap above the rear tires is strictly a function of ride height. Also, it looks like the rear tires are actually sitting rearward of the center of the wheel opening...when you move the body forward they will be even moreso. When I see this it always indicates that the upper link is adjusted too long which in addition to affecting the rear wheel placement will also throw your pinion angle out of whack. Position the body correctly, set ride height and then set the pinion angle.

Do all of this and then let us know how it worked out.

Jeff

I made the adjustments to the upper A arms today. The new measurements look odd, but It definitely moved the wheels back, so I'm sure that they will fit properly in the wheel wells. I need to wait for my son to have a day off so he can help me lift the body. Please let me know if it the adjustments look right. Thanks a million.

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[dbo_texas]

What is the best method for actually trimming the body cowel where the dash touches? I’ll be doing this soon enough. Do people use a tool to cut it or grind it down with an angle grinder and flapper wheel?

[cv2065]

What is the best method for actually trimming the body cowel where the dash touches? I’ll be doing this soon enough. Do people use a tool to cut it or grind it down with an angle grinder and flapper wheel?

I used flap discs on an angle grinder and cut down to a taped line, but you just have to be careful as it can take a lot of material off in an instant. Smaller areas I used a Dremel with barrel sander.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Like Chad, I do them using a 36 or 40 flap disc on the "death wheel" and then clean up with 80 on a DA.

Jeff

[CraigS]

I carefully used a 7" grinder and then finished w/ drum sanders in my drill because that is what I already owned.
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/POWERTEC-2-1-2-in-L-Drill-Press-Sanding-Drum-Kit-with-1-4-and-1-8-Shanks-Spindle-Sander-Sleeves-Tool-Carrying-Case-20-Piece-71634/319322368?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D25P-028_037_OUTDR_PW_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-OutdoorPowerAcc_2025_PMAX&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D25P-028_037_OUTDR_PW_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-OutdoorPowerAcc_2025_PMAX-22976667281--&gclid=e3160a452b411bac634062b30ced6b5e&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=e3160a452b411bac634062b30ced6b5e