In need of a member still familiar with Mark 1 builds

[the shadow]

Looking for a member who is familiar or atleast remembers how the original mark 1/ doner cobra electrical instructions. I'm trying to figure out how the original builder would have wired the hi/low headlights
I'm sorting out this old build , I have high beams coming off a doner mustang switch but no way of transitioning to low beam. How did they (ff) originally get around this with out using a turn signal stalk switch. I have no manual from the build so kinda searching for answers before I tear into the dash

[Derald Rice]

The manuals from the early years are very pathetic and in some cases, useless.. and the conversion of a donor harness was not a welcomed part of the build....Many builders resorted to a vendor who specialized in this process....as a result, I doubt if any two donor harnesses were modified in exactly the same manner...

.But for what it is worth, here is a MK2 Manual

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://

You may want to eventually resort to a complete re-wire, but until then, tracing the wiring that you have may be the best option.

[michael everson]

If it was a strictly a donor build, then they would have used the turn signal stalk to activate the high beams. Do you have the mustang stalk in the car? If so up and down will activate the high beams. If not, then just use a heavy-duty dual throw switch. Head light power to the center high beams on one side and low beams on the other side.
Mike

[the shadow]

thanks for the responses, no turn signal stalk in the car mike? plans are to redo the dash with new gauges and switch's. Im just trying to get everything working right so I can drive the car now to get used to it before I park it for the winter and tear into it. the cobra is a '98-99 build but runs great and looks great. Yeah it was a doner build but someone did a good job on the build. everything is put together well, I was impressed with the level of appearance even under the car (everything is mounted straight and detailed) It's got a brake issue Im fixing now (mike's help) and working on a 5 lug conversion-wheels/new tires and a face lift on the engine (ditch the stock 5.0 EFI) . Its just a bucket list car that I want to drive.
Also the original dash has 4 lights above the steering wheel, red-green-blue and one on top in the center. the blue is the high beam but what would the other 3 have been tied too, they do not seem to be lighting at the moment?

[Presdough]

blue is high beams, red is check engine and green is turn signals.

[weendoggy]

The red could also be the alternator light, lights with key-on engine off or when it goes bad.

[cob427sc]

Having built a MK 1 back in 1998, I remember just using a dual throw switch to activate the high/low beams as I did not use the Mustang directional stalk. Direcitional were also switched in the dash with a switch ON - OFF _ ON. Using the mustang harness wasn't all that bad except for extracting it out of the donor vehicle. Once out, just cut and throw away everything you're not going to use per the manual. The manual back then was extremely limited in comparison to today but having built several other kit cars that came with one or two pages or none at all it was a welcome reference.

[the shadow]

Having built a MK 1 back in 1998, I remember just using a dual throw switch to activate the high/low beams as I did not use the Mustang directional stalk. Direcitional were also switched in the dash with a switch ON - OFF _ ON. Using the mustang harness wasn't all that bad except for extracting it out of the donor vehicle. Once out, just cut and throw away everything you're not going to use per the manual. The manual back then was extremely limited in comparison to today but having built several other kit cars that came with one or two pages or none at all it was a welcome reference.

I have a switch now on the left side at the end of the dash by the ignition key that is for directional on-off-on like you described, the builder put the original mustang light switch under the leading edge of the dash and as it is right now it has an off position- running lights on (middle) and high beams are on the last throw? when the running lights (parking) are on the headlights are barley illuminated light they are not getting full power? the high beams are normal for illuminating. I just need to find out whats going on. maybe you've unknowingly seen my car at shows or cruise's back in the day when you ran your mark 1 it was tagged in MA in 1998 I dont know who built it? LOL

[michael everson]

Post some pics or other details. I had many old kits come through my shop. Over 300 at this point
Mike

[weendoggy]

I have a switch now on the left side at the end of the dash by the ignition key that is for directional on-off-on like you described, the builder put the original mustang light switch under the leading edge of the dash and as it is right now it has an off position- running lights on (middle) and high beams are on the last throw? when the running lights (parking) are on the headlights are barley illuminated light they are not getting full power? the high beams are normal for illuminating. I just need to find out whats going on. maybe you've unknowingly seen my car at shows or cruise's back in the day when you ran your mark 1 it was tagged in MA in 1998 I dont know who built it? LOL

I hope there's a relay in the circuit(s). A non-relay draw from either LB or HB will kill that toggle switch. Do the low beams go off when triggering the high beams? The most efficient way to wire the headlights is to run an uninterrupted wire/load (10ga or 12ga) from relay to lights, with the main wire to relay from a good 12v battery source (12ga). Try to eliminate connections if possible. Seems now you need to figure out how it's done, then correct it.
I too originally dieted my MKI harness and ditched all the stock Ford stuff. Easy for me because I like wiring. :) Are you checking voltage at the headlights and/or amp draw?

[the shadow]

Good news is I was able to uncomfortably fit under the dash and found the low beam switch, it's part of the original turn signal stalk mounted up under the dash. I just thought it was L-middle-R and forgot it flipped inward to flip the lights between hi and low.
It wasn't easy as I'm built like a tank 255 lbs all upper body, picture a linebacker trying to lay on the floor of a cobra to get under the dash. My shoulder width is wider then the inside body to the trans tunnel...not fun.

[Walt]

I sent you a PM yesterday, about the brake questions. Give me a call and we can talk about what I did on mine.
Thanks

[ProfessorB]

The manuals from the early years are very pathetic and in some cases, useless.. and the conversion of a donor harness was not a welcomed part of the build....Many builders resorted to a vendor who specialized in this process....as a result, I doubt if any two donor harnesses were modified in exactly the same manner...

.But for what it is worth, here is a MK2 Manual

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://

You may want to eventually resort to a complete re-wire, but until then, tracing the wiring that you have may be the best option.

Derald...... I am VERY interested in the link you provided but can't get it to work. Is it in the proper order? (I noticed the "https" is near the end) or is there another way to reference it? Thanks.

[JohnnyB]

Derald...... I am VERY interested in the link you provided but can't get it to work. Is it in the proper order? (I noticed the "https" is near the end) or is there another way to reference it? Thanks.

Scroll about half way down on the Manuals page of Factory Five's website.
https://www.factoryfive.com/manuals/