Three to four months out from purchasing my kit. Starting to get anxious.

[CW_MI]

It’s been over a year of research and preparing. Kind of glad I ended up taking this long, because in that timeframe, the Mk5 was released.
I’m planning on ordering the complete kit.
Power will most likely be a 408ci SBF, with a Terminator X, and TKX, hydraulic throw-out bearing - It needs to make 500hp…do I need that, nope, but I want it.
A 347 or 363 isn’t off the table…just needs to make 500hp
302/351W Mounts
Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit – My plan is to switch all the masters to Tilton so I don’t know if I need this.
Headers: 351W stainless steel – wonder if I can get them raw, not polished, since I plan on having them coated.
Uncoated/Bare Steel Side Exhaust
3-Link Deluxe Rear Suspension
Front & Rear 3-Link Sport Shock Set
Moser 8.8” 3-Link Solid Axle Rear End Housing
31 spline driveshaft for small 302/351W
Power Steering Rack Kit
Speedhut Vintage GPS 7 Gauge Set
Vinyl Roadster Seats, Black – depending on what I decide for body color, these might get recovered in saddle brown
Powder coated chassis
Powder Coated Passenger Side 1.5" Rollbar – roll bars will be power coated to match the ceramic coating of the exhaust
12.88” Front Wilwood Brakes, Red Calipers
Wilwood 12.19” Solid Axle Brake Kit, Red Calipers
Both, wood and leather steering wheels – swap between the two with a quick release hub
Mk5 Body with Cut-Outs
Not sure on dash, depends on body color, definitely want the glovebox. So carbon fiber, or will see if I can get the one without the vinyl glued on.
2" Wide 5-point Street/Competition Harness,
Breeze windshield mounted mirrors
Paintable ABS Plastic Hood Scoop
All the no cost options
Sun Visors
Mk5 Over-Rider Bumper Kit
Front Swaybar
Brake Reservoir Kit – not sure if I need this if I’m going with Tilton masters

I plan on using I.E.427’s canceling turn signal set up. From what I’ve read, the FFR one doesn’t seem that robust, plus I want a quick release hub. Going with a aftermarket wiper kit. I also want the FFR air dam, although can’t find it on their site anymore (https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/SpecAirDam.pdf)
Will be going with 18’’ wheels, most likely these Circuit CP21 Wheels: Classic JDM Style at NLMotoring.com with Continental Extreme contact 2 tires, black wall, no lettering.
Tilton three chamber
Breeze fan upgrade with shroud, offset rack bushings, and rack extenders. Howe ball joints, MOOG tie rod ends, all Aeromotive fuel components, PTFE lines, a bunch of Snakebit automotives sheetmetal parts, Spohn performance control arms with Del-sphere pivot joints. Lizard skin for sound and heat mitigation.
Color scheme is undecided as of yet. Either Cadillac CTS-V Blaze Orange, with black interior. Would like to use black alcantara for the door cards , tunnel and dash. Or one of two grays, Grigio Silverstone or another GM color, Dark Labyrinth Gray Metallic. If I go with one of the grays, I’d like to have a saddle brown interior, seats, door cards, tunnel and dash. All aluminum panels will be powder coated prismatic powders hilltop silver.

A couple of fun options I might try is traction control, the Terminator X ECU is capable, it would be kind of cool. And a sequential shifter , if it fits, from here https://s1sequential.com/product/tkx-sequential-shifter/?currency=USD

Well…that is all I can think of for now. Would love some feedback.

[bil1024]

Sounds great

[gbranham]

Make sure you lock in your engine choice before you choose your headers. A 408 and a 347 don't take the same headers.

Also, why does it 'need' to make 500hp? So you can say it has 500hp at car meets, or something else? The car is only 2300 pounds...

That said, I have 500hp...lol.

Greg

[CW_MI]

Make sure you lock in your engine choice before you choose your headers. A 408 and a 347 don't take the same headers.

Also, why does it 'need' to make 500hp? So you can say it has 500hp at car meets, or something else? The car is only 2300 pounds...

That said, I have 500hp...lol.

Greg

Yeah, definitely will decide on the engine package before I order. And I have no valid reason for the 500hp target....Just because, is about the best I can come up with, Lol.

[Mike.Bray]

Nice build plan, I like it.

If you're planning on a Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing you don't need Factory fives hydraulic clutch option. And good plan on upgrading to Tilton master cylinders, just be sure and size them properly.

If you're going to ceramic coat the headers and sidepipes I wouldn't waster the money of stainless. I started out with polished stainless and they were absolutely gorgeous, until I started the engine and they turned colors. Didn't like the maintenance with Compound 302 so had them ceramic coated. They look really nice and run cooler.

You can get 500 HP from a 347, you can get it easier with a tall deck 408W plus make more torque with the longer rod. My 393W makes over 550 HP.

Be sure and do a build thread so we can follow along.

[edwardb]

Three minor points:
- Don't order the Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit from Factory Five. The Tilton HRB is the best and that's not what they sell. They also don't sell Tilton master cylinders.
- You don't need the Breeze rack extenders if you get the Factory Five power steering rack. It comes the proper width. I also personally don't think you need the offset rack bushings. Installed the PS rack in my MK5 build and it's fine with the stock parts IMO.
- Interesting the Factory Five Mk5 turn signal setup is now being judged as not robust. That from opinion comments from a couple builders. No widespread experience yet. It's a standard GM part used on millions of vehicles. I'm not a fan of where it places the hazards switch and it's slightly fiddly to install. But I'm going with it on my MK5. It's set behind the steering hub so shouldn't interfere with a quick change wheel.

[cv2065]

Sounds like you've got a great plan.

No replacement for displacement. Go for your 351W block and stroke as you like it.

[Rebostar]

make sure you lock in your engine choice before you choose your headers. A 408 and a 347 don't take the same headers.

Also, why does it 'need' to make 500hp? So you can say it has 500hp at car meets, or something else? The car is only 2300 pounds...

That said, i have 500hp...lol.

Greg

ditto!!

218148

[Rebostar]

Make sure you lock in your engine choice before you choose your headers. A 408 and a 347 don't take the same headers.

Also, why does it 'need' to make 500hp? So you can say it has 500hp at car meets, or something else? The car is only 2300 pounds...

That said, I have 500hp...lol.

Greg

DITTO!! 427 Scat stroker kit

218148

[Reddrig]

Like your build list, please keep us informed on your build. I went a different direction on the turn signal. I actually installed it and then removed it, I’m sure it can be made to work fine, just not for me. One person from the build school said it was fiddley to adjust (Trackday17 I believe), you might want to contact him for more info.

Looking forward to following along. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

[burchfieldb]

Looking forward to following along.

[CW_MI]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Good stuff.

Many of these things I researched before the Mk5 was released, and there isn't anywhere near the info out on those build yet as the Mk4.

Good to hear about the steering rack items. As far as the turn signal, I've only seen a couple of pics, and the parts I saw looked like the old GM Saginaw steering column components. Yes, there were millions of them out there, they weren't great though, I've rebuilt many of them back when I was a theft repair mechanic. Not to mention, fiddly, or finicky doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. It's definitely worth a look at though.

Paul, I was eventually going to reach out to you. I wouldn't mind taking a look at your build so far. We met a couple of times, and my friend and his wife came out to your house a while back to look at your couple. I've assisting him on his build.

Another thing I forgot to mention, I was thinking of going with a twin disk clutch. After attending the Dreamcruise this year, and seeing a handful of replicas out there, it got me thinking about being in that traffic and how their left legs were feeling. Seems like the least amount of clutch pedal effort the better.

[CraigS]

I 3rd or 4th the 408. That's what I did. Went from a 351 to 408. Used the same Performer RPM heads and intake and carb. 6-8months later I went from a 650 carb to a 750. W/ the extra cubes you can get any given HP# w/ a milder cam. Mine probably was only 450hp but it was a super tractible, easy to drive in traffic, engine. I'd build it again in a heartbeat.

[edwardb]

Paul, I was eventually going to reach out to you. I wouldn't mind taking a look at your build so far. We met a couple of times, and my friend and his wife came out to your house a while back to look at your couple. I've assisting him on his build.

Another thing I forgot to mention, I was thinking of going with a twin disk clutch. After attending the Dreamcruise this year, and seeing a handful of replicas out there, it got me thinking about being in that traffic and how their left legs were feeling. Seems like the least amount of clutch pedal effort the better.

PM whenever you're ready. Happy to have visitors. My schedule is usually pretty flexible. I'm pretty happy with the pedal effort in my Coupe with the Tilton HRB and Centerforce dual friction (not dual disk) clutch. Will have the same setup in the Mk5 build. I've spent my time in the Dream Cruise traffic too. :p

[CW_MI]

Nice build plan, I like it.

If you're planning on a Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing you don't need Factory fives hydraulic clutch option. And good plan on upgrading to Tilton master cylinders, just be sure and size them properly.



Just a quick question on the master cylinders. FFR uses a 3/4 bore in the Wilwoods, wouldn't that also work with the Tilton's ? Also, can a 76 series be used ? I prefer using an -AN fitting or banjo fitting over a rubber hose.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Just a quick question on the master cylinders. FFR uses a 3/4 bore in the Wilwoods, wouldn't that also work with the Tilton's ?

Yes. The caliper doesn’t know or care what kind of master is making pressure.

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

Just a quick question on the master cylinders. FFR uses a 3/4 bore in the Wilwoods, wouldn't that also work with the Tilton's ? Also, can a 76 series be used ? I prefer using an -AN fitting or banjo fitting over a rubber hose.

The 3/4" bore MC is kind of universal but not always ideal. I ended up with a 3/4" on the front brakes (Wilwood), a 1" on the rear (Wilwood), and a 13/16" on the HRB. You can talk to Tilton and they will help you size them or PM me your email address and I'll send you the Tilton form to calculate it yourself.

I used the 76 series with banjo adapters to AN fittings. Everything on my car is AN, is there any other kind?

218158218159

Note, if I was doing it again I would run -4 braided flex hose from the bulkhead fitting to the MC inlet instead of hardline. Flex hose would be easier to work around.

About your clutch effort concern, I'm running a Ram 88794HDT clutch with a Tilton 60-6102 hydraulic throwout bearing. With the 13/16" MC the effort is very light, my wife can easily actuate it with her bad knee.

Whatever you do, avoid McLeod. Bargain basement of clutch components.

[CW_MI]

The 3/4" bore MC is kind of universal but not always ideal. I ended up with a 3/4" on the front brakes (Wilwood), a 1" on the rear (Wilwood), and a 13/16" on the HRB. You can talk to Tilton and they will help you size them or PM me your email address and I'll send you the Tilton form to calculate it yourself.

I used the 76 series with banjo adapters to AN fittings. Everything on my car is AN, is there any other kind?

218158218159

Note, if I was doing it again I would run -4 braided flex hose from the bulkhead fitting to the MC inlet instead of hardline. Flex hose would be easier to work around.

About your clutch effort concern, I'm running a Ram 88794HDT clutch with a Tilton 60-6102 hydraulic throwout bearing. With the 13/16" MC the effort is very light, my wife can easily actuate it with her bad knee.

Whatever you do, avoid McLeod. Bargain basement of clutch components.

The bulkhead flex line route is exactly what I have planned.

Now, I've been out of the manual trans thing for a long time. When I did have car with a manual trans, I had all Centerforce stuff, and was running 10's in a Fox body with it. Dumping the clutch, at 6k on the spray, on slicks. Something that will never happen in this car.

No experience with RAM or Mcleod other than what i've read here. Talked to a buddy who runs a shop, and he's done quite a few boosted LS builds using Mcleod stuff and said he's never had an issue. With these vehicles being so light, and if it is just street driven, I'm sure they all will work. When it comes time to pull the trigger, I'm sure I'll spend time over thinking and over analyzing the components....that's what I do. Lol

[Mike.Bray]

To be fair, I don't have any first hand experience with McLeod clutches I've only heard not good things about them. I have had personal experience with McLeod hydraulic throwout bearings and their failures, not fun to change out. Tilton is by far the best here.

I've never had an issue with RAM clutches & flywheels, only heard good things about Centerforce. Neither of those would cause me to lose any sleep.

[rickshank]

Mike - thanks for that! I'll be sending you a PM with my email for the Tilton calculation stuff as I'm using the "standard" 11"-ish brakes. HRB = hydraulic release bearing / clutch hose?

[Rebostar]

Great List!. Looks like it will be a great car when you get it done. Take lots of pics. I took about 3 to 4 a day and posted my progress on my build thread. Lots of guys coming behind you will apprieciate them. Also had many of the guys here point out some issues during my build that saved me both time and money, that would not have happened had I not posted pics regularly.

Best of luck
Allyn

[CW_MI]

Well...the time has come. I will be ordering my kit sometime this weekend. Have a couple of things I want to work out, then it will be time to hit "buy it now" !

[rthomas98]

Well...the time has come. I will be ordering my kit sometime this weekend. Have a couple of things I want to work out, then it will be time to hit "buy it now" !

I really recommend working with someone from factory five to place the order. They can help with anything that is missed or things that you might not need. I think I had 8 or 9 e-mails going back in forth with them when I got mine making sure everything was straight.

[RobHartley]

As someone who also just ordered in October (just waiting on delivery), if you've never done this before (I have wrenched on many vehicles but never built one) I would recommend going to the Build School, it will build your confidence, as well as help you confirm decisions as well as may change others. Also the forum is great for helping you make decisions, read through several of the Build threads (MK4, MK5 and Coupe), there is a TON of information to glean from them and lots of opinions. As an example I have flip-flopped from the FFR side pipes to GASN, in the end when I placed the order I went with the FFR because of shipping costs and getting them up to Canada (maybe the wrong choice, but can always replace with GAS-N later...).

[CW_MI]

I really recommend working with someone from factory five to place the order. They can help with anything that is missed or things that you might not need. I think I had 8 or 9 e-mails going back in forth with them when I got mine making sure everything was straight.

I was under the impression, one makes the order then someone from FFR calls to confirm and discuss the order ? You actually called and worked with someone ?

[CW_MI]

As someone who also just ordered in October (just waiting on delivery), if you've never done this before (I have wrenched on many vehicles but never built one) I would recommend going to the Build School, it will build your confidence, as well as help you confirm decisions as well as may change others. Also the forum is great for helping you make decisions, read through several of the Build threads (MK4, MK5 and Coupe), there is a TON of information to glean from them and lots of opinions. As an example I have flip-flopped from the FFR side pipes to GASN, in the end when I placed the order I went with the FFR because of shipping costs and getting them up to Canada (maybe the wrong choice, but can always replace with GAS-N later...).

Great info. I've scouring the forum and build threads for over a year now. And the last year, have been assisting some friends one their builds, one a Type 65 coupe and the other a Mk4 roadster. The coupe is almost to go kart stage now, the build was started in Feb.

I too am flip flopping a bit , on engine choices. I think I've decided on the builder, just need to decide on cubic inch.

[2nd2none]

I was under the impression, one makes the order then someone from FFR calls to confirm and discuss the order ? You actually called and worked with someone ?

I was kind of expecting that as well. I placed my order online this past Wed, 11/12. Yesterday I received an email from Travis at FFR with a PDF of my build sheet. I had a few questions regarding the order that I typed into the "Additional information" box at the bottom of the online ordering page but they didn't respond to those questions when they sent the email. I just replied to Travis and he got back to me the same day answering all my questions. I'm scheduled for the build school next month and originally was going to wait until afterwards to place my order but at this point the only thing I'm still flip-flopping on is whether I want to keep the polished/chrome look or black things out. Figured the school won't have any effect on my decision there so decided to just place the order now. Completion date is scheduled for 12/13. Will be having Cunningham deliver it so perhaps I'll have a nice Xmas present this year.

[edwardb]

I was under the impression, one makes the order then someone from FFR calls to confirm and discuss the order ? You actually called and worked with someone ?

You can place the order on-line at your convenience along with your deposit. Do the best you can with options, etc. but nothing is cast in concrete until it's close to production. You can make changes as needed. The main thing is to get your build into their build schedule. Of course, if you're more comfortable talking to someone, that's an option too. They may call you if you place it on-line. But not always. I've had both. For sure they will ask you to finalize your order when the balance is due as it nears production.

[csontchi22]

Well you certaainly sound ready. My advice is take it easy. It will take a while to get organized especially with so many non-FFR parts. All the FFR stuff will not come on the first day. Some will drib and drab. Not that it matters because we are not even close to needing them but I got my kit delivery in June and the wheels and tires are arriving in a few days. Not fussed as they are the special anniversary wheels and FFR was having supplier issues. Make sure you inventory all of the parts as soon as possible when they come in. Some of the boxes take quite some time. We ended up missing two parts I think and we had one broken headlight. It was all taken care of ASAP but if you wait too long it's on your dime.

Are you going with the standard wiring harness? It is a new product with the Mark V and seems to be quitemanagaeble but it is old school. I've seen some threads where builders are instaklling more modern and less complicated wiring. Just a thought.

As to engines, I suggest Blue Print Engines. Those guys are great and the FFR engines bolt right in. I have a 427 small block with the HO package and it hit 55hp on the Dyno. The rep, James, is awesome.

It sounds like you know your stuff but I highly recommend build school. My son and I learned a ton (I got the basics and he got great advanced tipos).. The tips from the instructors including what to ignore in the manual was extremely helpful. And if you are getting a Blue Print engine and order it at school you will get a discount that easily covers the cost of attending the school.

I love your idea of swapping steering wheels. My son wanted leather but I love the vintage look of the wood. Can you point me to the quick release hub you are considering.

Welcome (soon) to the FFR family!

[csontchi22]

Okay that was supposed to be 550 hp.

[CW_MI]

Well you certaainly sound ready. My advice is take it easy. It will take a while to get organized especially with so many non-FFR parts. All the FFR stuff will not come on the first day. Some will drib and drab. Not that it matters because we are not even close to needing them but I got my kit delivery in June and the wheels and tires are arriving in a few days. Not fussed as they are the special anniversary wheels and FFR was having supplier issues. Make sure you inventory all of the parts as soon as possible when they come in. Some of the boxes take quite some time. We ended up missing two parts I think and we had one broken headlight. It was all taken care of ASAP but if you wait too long it's on your dime.

Are you going with the standard wiring harness? It is a new product with the Mark V and seems to be quitemanagaeble but it is old school. I've seen some threads where builders are instaklling more modern and less complicated wiring. Just a thought.

As to engines, I suggest Blue Print Engines. Those guys are great and the FFR engines bolt right in. I have a 427 small block with the HO package and it hit 55hp on the Dyno. The rep, James, is awesome.

It sounds like you know your stuff but I highly recommend build school. My son and I learned a ton (I got the basics and he got great advanced tipos).. The tips from the instructors including what to ignore in the manual was extremely helpful. And if you are getting a Blue Print engine and order it at school you will get a discount that easily covers the cost of attending the school.

I love your idea of swapping steering wheels. My son wanted leather but I love the vintage look of the wood. Can you point me to the quick release hub you are considering.

Welcome (soon) to the FFR family!

Thanks for the great advice. Yeah, inventorying everything sounds like a daunting task, but we all end up getting through it.

As far as wiring, will probably stick with the RF harness, dieted where I can. When I first started researching this project , i wanted to go the whole PDM route...until I priced it.

The build school does sound cool, and it isn't all that far from where I live. It might happen. Although, I've learned a lot helping a friend build his coupe, and another his roadster.

Blueprint is a great option, and it is in my list of vendors, although I've been talking with Prestige on a 500hp 408" or 347", I like that they can tailor things to what I want.

I'm definitely looking forward to this build, and think it will be a lot of fun and a great challenge.

[CraigS]

One advantage to the standard harness is this. You have a problem. You can ask here about the yellow wire in the XY relay connector and people will know what you are referring to.