Questions about installing a 2-post lift

[canuck1]

For those who've installed a 2-post lift before, I'm wondering about the 'gotcha' moments or stumbling blocks I might encounter other than what's spelled out in the instructions?

I understand the concrete foundation requirements, as well as the factory suggested installation clearances, but am wondering (for instance) about installation width options? I can fit a narrow (92") or wide (102") drive-thru width given I'm installing it in a 15' wide x 28' deep bay. In the wide config (145" outside posts), I'll have only 21' on either side if centered across the width. In the narrow width (135" outside posts), I'll have 27" clear on either side. BendPak suggests 3' of clearance on either side!

The narrow width is more than enough to fit my roadster, and even wide enough to fit my 80" wide 1 ton truck. Is the wider installation desirable enough to choose to live with the skinny clearance between the walls and the outside of the posts or will I regret it every time I squeeze between the post and wall?? Would shifting the lift over so one side is closer to the wall and retaining the wider layout be more desirable?

Garage construction is currently underway, bay inside dimensions are wall to wall and don't account for storage or tools etc.. My bay is center of a 3-bay structure, so I don't get to decide on making it wider at this point! My wife is eating up the other two bay's space with her car and the contents of a garden shed we're doing away with.

Any other pointers from personal experience are appreciated. The unit I've selected is BendPak 10APX 2-post lift.

Sean

[Papa]

My thoughts after using both a two-post and a four-post:

1. You will likely need a set of low ramps (4) to get the arms under the side pipes on a two-post lift.

2. Narrow or wide, you have finite positions that the arms on a two-post lift can reach, so understand what/where your lift points are on any car you want to lift.

3. Consider placing reference marks on the floor to help position the car(s) you lift often to save time positioning the car without a lot of in/out moving the car to the left/right/forward/backward and positioning the arms each time to be sure they hit the lift points.

As you might guess, my preference is a four-post. Drive on and lift. Change narrow to wide and back in minutes,

[canuck1]

I respect your experience. It is a difficult decision deciding which style of lift, but I'm trying not to open up that debate. I've looked at lots of 4-post models too. I was put off by the size it takes up in an (oversize) single bay. I think I'll be fine with getting it up on a 2-post. I just don't have any real-life experience at siting in the available space or any other issues that I should consider before installation. I know it will fit, I just want to be confident I've taken the time to consider the best way to fit it.

Sean

[Papa]

Other than the points I listed above, it is more critical to give yourself space in front of a two-post lift than on the sides as long as you have room to work the controls. You also want a straight shot driving into position to lift your car. Any obstructions that require you to steer left or right will make it harder to position your car. In the narrow configuration, it was a stretch to get the arms under the 4" frame on the Cobra. I don't know if the wide configuration would work unless you lifted the car from some other lift points. Lifting a car with lift points near the edges of the car can be difficult because the arms can only collapse so much. I could get my BMW M550i, my wife's Lexus RX350, and my Cobra on the same lift you are considering, but no way I could get my GMC Sierra 1500 on the lift in the narrow configuration.

Here is a picture that shows my Cobra on the two-post.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89018&d=1531782536

And with the BMW:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149492&d=1623631611

[edwardb]

Lots of debate and lots of opinions. Since you didn't start this to debate 2-post vs. 4-post, I will only say I love my Bendpak 2-post. I ordered a model with low profile arms, so yes it's necessary to raise the Roadster and Coupe slightly, but no big deal. I drive it into position (marks on the floor are a good idea), lift it slightly with floor jacks, and arms go right under. Takes about 5 minutes. I don't like driving onto ramps unless I have to. I set my posts at the narrow width. Plenty wide for the toy cars and would fit the DD if I had to, but never have. I have the outside post only nine inches from the wall. Have to walk around from side to side but hasn't been a major issue and saves space in my garage. So for me was worth it. Setting it out three feet like Bendpak suggests would have basically taken out one of my parking spots.

[Rebostar]

Great questions on the 2 post. Check your instructions to make sure the front arms will center under the 4" tubes (not sure about the MK5, I have a MK 4). My 2 post front arms at max extension and at 90' to the frame exactly center under the frame. (s#*t house luck I guess). I did not have the option of wide or narrow, but if the lift posts were any wider the front arms would not center under the frame rails. My 2 post predates my Roadster. For me it was far easier to complete the assembly of the chassis while on the 2 post. That being said, if your frame is on the lift you'll need space to walk around the car while on the lift so it sounds like the narrow position would be best.
When the suspension is at ride hieght the arms slip right under the frame with no extra jacking or ramps. As mantioned above mark your floor when the left front and rear wheels are centered where you want them. Because of the lenth of the arms I need to drive past the marks then slide the rear arms in front of the rear tires, push the car forward till I can get the front arms behind the front tires, then center everything and lock the arms in place.
Good luck.

PS: To not engage in the 2 post 4 post debate...I have both!!

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[Waterman]

I have a 2 post in the wide config so I can lift most anything. Since I mostly park the MK4 in that bay I have 2x6"'s on the floor in correct location and blue tape on floor at mark location of the 2x6. I drive onto 2x6 and stop as soon as on. Then arms go under easy and car is in correct location. Rear arms pick up the 2x2 frame in front of rear wheels. In narrow config my rear arms would not swing under a short wheelbase car without moving car front and back. A real pain. Front arms pick up the 4" frame BUT i had to make metal adaptors to add 2" to reach. Started at first with just a 2x8 between the arms during build. Car is light so no concern with arm strength. I wanted lift out of the way so offset it towards the wall so only one post is in the way. I can get around it in a pinch but only 18" from wall. Posts are not square to door but square to driving in at the slight angle. Works for me and gives more room in the shop. I have made adaptors for lifting my tractor, golf cart and lawn mower. One of my best purchases, use all the time. Lastly, add a 4 outlet box on the lift while wiring up. Can run off one leg of the main 220v. Needs a separate fuse! Enjoy

[canuck1]

Anyone willing to review the attached specification drawing from BendPak and tell me whether you think I'd be able to get the MKIII/IV roadster on this (wide configuration) 2-post lift safely?

225418
My math (beware):

wide config drive through width:101" makes the centre point across the width of the lift 50.5" measured from the inside edge of the arm pivot points. Since my car's frame tubes are 24" apart (C to C), if I centre the car on approach that makes the centre of each frame tube about 38.5" from the arm pivot points. The Bi-Metric arms allow for asymetric lift position through the different length and angle of each arm pair. The longer rear arms reach up to 56.9", the shorter front arms reach up to 47.6". What I don't know is the angle the arms would need to swing (back to front) to achieve load balance, so I don't know how to calculate if there is enough reach for the pads to locate the centre of the frame rails on each side? My gut says yes but I have zero experience figuring this out!

My new garage is currently in limbo. Apparently getting my plans approved by my municipal authority doesn't account for archaeological approvals from ANOTHER level of government! Help me take my mind off this problem by sorting through this geometry puzzle!!

Thanks,

Sean

[Wizbangdoodle]

More importantly is the balance of the car front to back. Since it is a 2 post lift, get the center of balance lined up with the post. Once you have that, you can set your arms and begin to lift the car. Lift it a few inches and then test the balance by giving the car a few tugs. Believe me, you'll be able to tell when it's balanced correctly. I do this all the time when I put a different car on my lift.

[canuck1]

Thanks Wiz, that's excellent advice for someone like me who's new to this once I finally get the lift installed.

Right now I'm just trying to make sure the lift I'm considering will work for me. I'd prefer to know before I order it, that I can afford to bolt the columns to the floor in the wide, rather than narrow configuration. In other words, will the arms extend far enough to reach the centre of the 4" frame tubes on either side once they are angled out forward and rearward enough to adequately support the balanced load. From the pictures others have posted above, it looks like it should work. I just like to ask others who've done it if maybe I'm missing something!?

Sean

[BornWestUSA]

Thanks Wiz, that's excellent advice for someone like me who's new to this once I finally get the lift installed.

Right now I'm just trying to make sure the lift I'm considering will work for me. I'd prefer to know before I order it, that I can afford to bolt the columns to the floor in the wide, rather than narrow configuration. In other words, will the arms extend far enough to reach the centre of the 4" frame tubes on either side once they are angled out forward and rearward enough to adequately support the balanced load. From the pictures others have posted above, it looks like it should work. I just like to ask others who've done it if maybe I'm missing something!?

Sean

That BendPak PDF does not show measurements with the arms extended. Maybe a call to Bendpak?

They are local to me, I picked up my quick jacks in person, the staff is very helpful.

[Papa]

Here is a picture (same as posted above) of my MK4 on my old Bendpak XPR-10AS-LP 2-post lift configured in the narrow configuration.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89018&d=1531782536

The front arms are fully extended and reach the 4" tubes about at the front of the foot boxes. If you go with the wide configuration, those arms will be much further rearward and may not reach the center of the 4" tubes at all. As it was, I would have liked the arms positioned further forward than they were.

[Waterman]

Here is a good shot of my lift config wit the MK4. Note that the front arms are 90 deg for max reach and are right behind the front tires. Back picks up the 2x2. It is well balanced /stabile. As I mentioned earlier I did HAVE to modify the front arms for 1" more extension each arm.(or use a bar/2x8" between arms) I added/welded on 1.5" to the inner arm tubing so I have more reach WITH a LIGHT car!(9K lift) Not shown in this old pic are red rings indicating when extended 1" past std. The narrow spacing would have been very limiting for my other uses.
225457

[Its Bruce]

Here is a good shot of my lift config wit the MK4. Note that the front arms are 90 deg for max reach and are right behind the front tires. Back picks up the 2x2. It is well balanced /stabile. As I mentioned earlier I did HAVE to modify the front arms for 1" more extension each arm.(or use a bar/2x8" between arms) I added/welded on 1.5" to the inner arm tubing so I have more reach WITH a LIGHT car!(9K lift) Not shown in this old pic are red rings indicating when extended 1" past std. The narrow spacing would have been very limiting for my other uses.
225457

Would that still work with the body installed?

[Waterman]

Here is a top view showing body and the RED lines. Yes I love my lift and the MK4 is on it all the time for the tweaks!. Just drive on some 2x6 to raise frame for room to swing arms.
225458

[canuck1]

That BendPak PDF does not show measurements with the arms extended. Maybe a call to Bendpak?

They are local to me, I picked up my quick jacks in person, the staff is very helpful.

Thanks for your help, I may touch base to bug you about something else in the future since you're in their area! I got the drawing I posted from BendPak. It shows two dimensions with each arm (front and rear). The dimensions include fully collapsed length (22" F, 29" R) and the fully extended dimension (47.6" F, 56.9" R).

Papa, I was referring to your picture earlier when I said I THINK it will work. Very helpful, thanks! The BendPak model 9APF is a bit different than yours. Smaller footprint and meant for lower ceilings. The WIDE configuration is a drive through width of 101". Sounds like yours is wider in narrow configuration than this one would be in wide configuration! Go figure.

Waterman,

Your photo and descriptions are great as well. Do you know what the drive through width of your lift is? Your undercar exhaust is DABOMB!! Wow, nice work!!

Sean

[Waterman]

My 2 post lift is 112" between posts, 89" between folded arms. My only regret is not paying a bit more for one that raises higher. Mine raises arm bottoms to about 70" which is a head knocker, as I like to keep lift up when not in use for more floor space.(81" lift with max risers) I drape a fender apron over the one arm set as a warning.

[gpcobra]

For those who've installed a 2-post lift before, I'm wondering about the 'gotcha' moments or stumbling blocks I might encounter other than what's spelled out in the instructions?

I understand the concrete foundation requirements, as well as the factory suggested installation clearances, but am wondering (for instance) about installation width options? I can fit a narrow (92") or wide (102") drive-thru width given I'm installing it in a 15' wide x 28' deep bay. In the wide config (145" outside posts), I'll have only 21' on either side if centered across the width. In the narrow width (135" outside posts), I'll have 27" clear on either side. BendPak suggests 3' of clearance on either side!

The narrow width is more than enough to fit my roadster, and even wide enough to fit my 80" wide 1 ton truck. Is the wider installation desirable enough to choose to live with the skinny clearance between the walls and the outside of the posts or will I regret it every time I squeeze between the post and wall?? Would shifting the lift over so one side is closer to the wall and retaining the wider layout be more desirable?

Garage construction is currently underway, bay inside dimensions are wall to wall and don't account for storage or tools etc.. My bay is center of a 3-bay structure, so I don't get to decide on making it wider at this point! My wife is eating up the other two bay's space with her car and the contents of a garden shed we're doing away with.

Any other pointers from personal experience are appreciated. The unit I've selected is BendPak 10APX 2-post lift.

Sean

Hey Sean I live in Nanaimo I've had my hoist for 15 years not the same brand as your interested in, but if your interested ill give you my #number and you may check it out and make all kinds of measurements. I place my car on wheel dollys to get it centered and for height. Gerald

[nucjd19]

I have a Challenger 2 post lift and I just love it. I live on a farm so use it for all types of applications outside of FFR. Do not forget to get your depth and tensile strength of your concrete tested before you install. I had my garage custom poured for a lift with the lift bay dug out deeper to accommodate the 2 post lift....https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189369&d=1693015319

[canuck1]

Thanks once again to all for advice, photos and generous invites to come and see. It's been especially helpful to see where the balance point on the frame works out to be on average. I compounded my own problems by first stating I'd settled on BendPak's !0-APX extended height clearfloor lift and then offering an engineering drawing of their 9APF floorplate model lift for your review. The delay to my garage build project caused me to rethink changes I might have been forced to make.

As it turns out, I did have to adjust the overall height of the ceiling to 10'6" (highest tray ceiling structure I could maneuver under roofline height limits) but once I explained the working components of the lift to my builder in more detail, He found a workaround I think will make everyone happy.

By accomodating the 13' high BendPak 10APX lift columns and upper cross support inside the attic space through the roof trusses, I'll get the most lift height possible under my ceiling along with the freedom of a clear floor space underneath (no floorplate). I'll set it in the narrow config, because it fits my space best and I'm sure to have enough reach to centre the 4" main tubes on the lifting pads. We are back to digging now and some very robust, steel-reinforced concrete to be in place soon!

Sean