FFR Mk3 Five Lug Upgrade

[Gaijin]

First of all I would like to thank members of this esteemed conclave for their invaluable feedback as I was undertaking this upgrade. I’ll update this post with photos as the conversion goes

The first order of business was to decide if I should keep my four lug set-up and just update the tires from a foreign branded to a U.S. manufacturer. Then with all the feedbacks I received especially from Cobra Dude, I decided to engage! When I say that, I mean, full speed ahead Mr. Gridley.

Purchase a brand new set of Halibrand replica wheels and Mickey Thompson Sport Comp tires. 245/45R17 - 315/35R17.

Ordered the conversion parts from LMR out in Texas and while at it, sourced out a full set of GOODYEAR EAGLE billboard lettering from California. Requested expedited shipping for all and FedEx obliged with a two-day at my doorstep delivery.

First on the list was to prep and apply the billboards. Cured each tire for 24 hours after gluing the lettering.

Now the only thing left is to do the changeover from the 20-year old Mustang Fox Body four lugs to the new millennium Ford Mustang five lugs.

More to follow.

On with the dance…..217907

[65 Cobra Dude]

Looking good!

Henry

[Gaijin]

Update: all was coming along well until we realized that the replacement rotors’ diameter of 266 mm was a bit larger than the old one at 257 mm. The axle flange was 70 mm on the new while the old measured 64 mm center hole.

In the meantime, we are DIW (dead in the water) until we can get these issues sorted out with LMR.com.

[Gaijin]

Looking good!

Henry

Thank you! vr/Larry

[Gaijin]

I’ve confirmed with the original owner and builder that my Roadster has a Mustang Fox Body (1979-1992) 28 spline axle. He converted the rear drum brakes some years ago to disc using 1992 Ford Thunderbird calipers and rotors.

[Gaijin]

Gratuitous first photo after conversion.

[CraigS]

Nicely done.

[Gaijin]

Driver’s front rubs frame at full steering wheel turn. I’ll be going to a steering rack limiter kit to mitigate it with installation on passenger side steering rack.

[cv2065]

Looks great. I think many combos will rub at full lock, including mine with 265/35ZR/18s. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

[Gaijin]

The rub is on the inner wheel OD. I’m going with a 5x5 5x127 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers 5mm with 78.3mm Center Bore (No Lip) 5 Lug. I’ll update when parts are installed.

[Gaijin]

Spinners: Should I use blue threadlocker or no threadlockers?

[Steve1979]

What I would suggest is to use nylon tipped set screws. These will not hurt the threads on the adapter as long as you don’t over tighten them. You can find them at places like McMaster-Carr.
If you want to use a thread locker, you should use something like Loctite 222.

[Gaijin]

What I would suggest is to use nylon tipped set screws. These will not hurt the threads on the adapter as long as you don’t over tighten them. You can find them at places like McMaster-Carr.
If you want to use a thread locker, you should use something like Loctite 222.

FFR adapters come with nylon tipped set screw I think. Thanks for your advise. I’ll order a few spare set screws from McMaster-Carr too.

[Gaijin]

[QUOTE=Steve1979;590811]What I would suggest is to use nylon tipped set screws.

Do you suggest any other method like rubber o-rings or even using pool noddle to snug up adapter against hub?

[Steve1979]

First, I don’t believe the adapters on my 17 year old Team 3 wheels (AC-III 15”) have an area cut into them where an o-ring could be installed. But, all I did was just run the adapter through the wheel center and screw the spinner on without the lug cover. Install the wheel and torque it. Remove the spinner, put the lug cover on and tighten the spinner by hand to make sure the lug cover was aligned. Put a soft rag on one of the spinner ears and tap it with a rubber mallet until tighter. Then tighten the set screw. Haven’t had any problems in 14 years of driving.

[Gaijin]

Decided not to go with using a rubber O-rings or anything else and going with just proper hand tightening. However, I just picked up a tube of Permatex anti-seize lubricant and will lightly coat the area where the spinners will screw into.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Decided not to go with using a rubber O-rings or anything else and going with just proper hand tightening. However, I just picked up a tube of Permatex anti-seize lubricant and will lightly coat the area where the spinners will screw into.

I've put literally hundreds of them on and off. First thing is make sure that the spinners are on the correct side of the car...that is right hand thread on the left side of the car and left hand thread on the right side of the car. In this orientation you will be rotating the spinners towards the rear of the car when tightening; clockwise on the left and counter clockwise on the right. When done like this the forward rotation of the wheels naturally wants to keep them tight. I do not use the setscrews. I've found that even with the plastic tips they can damage the adapter threads and make it difficult to remove the spinners. I also do not use anti-seize but rather a dry graphite or Teflon such as CRC 03094 or WD-40 300059. This is because I've had cars come to me that had anti-seize applied but it tends to draw and hold dust and grit ultimately gumming up the threads making removal difficult. Finally, to hold the centers in the wheel I apply 4 dabs of clear silicone, drop the adapter into the wheel and then put the spinner on and draw it up snug and let it cure for 12-24 hours. That holds the adapter well in place for spinner R&R but if it ever has to come out for tire dismounting or whatever a couple of good raps with a rubber mallet will break the silicone grip and pop it loose. I run the spinners up and tighten them with a couple of solid taps with a plastic hammer.

Jeff

[Steve1979]

I can only speak to the Team 3 wheels, but they did not come with left or right threaded spinners for lug nut wheels. It could be a new thing for some wheel manufactures to thread them this way, but seems unlikely just from the cost point of view. Obviously pin drive wheels come in L & R threads. At one time, I’m sure everyone knows that some auto manufacturers used to have right and left handed lug nuts. I believe Chrysler was one of the last to use that setup.
As far nylon tipped set screws, they do work when installed right. The only problem is when someone wants to reuse them over and over again. That’s when the set screw loses its tip and will begin to compress/mar the threads and cause problems when trying to remove them. I was around them for decades when working on manufacturing production machines and large medical device production. If it's used right it works.

[Gaijin]

Decided not to go with using a rubber O-rings or anything else and going with just proper hand tightening. However, I just picked up a tube of Permatex anti-seize lubricant and will lightly coat the area where the spinners will screw into.

Correction. I'm taking Jeff's advise and not going to use anti-seize. Rather go the old fashion way I'm accustomed with. I'll sparingly use WD-40. I'm also going with curing clear silicone for 12-24 hours afterwards.

[Gaijin]

Just finished r&r to the front brake calipers. The set needed attention from years of abuse from their duties stopping my Cobra as designed. First I attended to the surface rust. After cleaning and preps, primer sprayed and finally couple of paint coats in “aluminum.” Decided to keep them in the background and let the Halibrand take all the bling.218667

[Gaijin]

Here are the finished painted caliper and inner fender 3M rubberized coating. My Roadster’s back in-service complete with 5mm hub-centric spacers. Still have to be careful with wheel-to-wheel lock as there are barely clearances 218775before rubbing the wheel wells.

[MPersanis]

what rotors did you go with?