Horn button wiring

[hennessyVV]

Can anyone using a billet automotive button for their horn share their wiring set up? I cannot for the life of me figure out the wiring set up using the button.

https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/products/22mm-horn-symbol-billet-push-button-switch?_pos=3&_sid=817227e0f&_ss=r

[edwardb]

I assume Ron Francis wiring harness? Always good to say when asking wiring questions. My response will reflect that. The basic function of the horn button itself couldn't be simpler. I'm assuming you have a momentary switch. A latching switch for the horn wouldn't make sense. There's two horn wires in the dash harness. BLK-GROUND and BRN-HORN-SW. Attach those to the two normally open terminals on the switch. When the button is pushed, the two wires are connected completing the ground for the horn relay, and you know the rest.

To make the switch light adds some wrinkles. I don't see a schematic on the website so hard to provide an detailed answer. You'll have to add wires and +12V to the switch. The two horn wires in the RF harness don't have +12V. Adding a daisy chain from the gauges from the WHT-DASH LIGHTS wire and ground would provide +12V when the gauges are lit. That would be the backlit part? If you want the switch to light when switched, you'll need to add another unswitched +12V source to those terminals.

[hennessyVV]

Hey paul thanks for the response. I am using the Ron Francis wiring harness and using this button: https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/products/22mm-horn-symbol-billet-push-button-switch?utm_campaign=order-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email&utm_content=product&utm_term=link&utm_source=OrderlyEmails (momentary).

I connected the BLK-GROUND and BRN-HORN-SW to the normally open terminals on the switch and get nothing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217799&d=1755662560

[Papa]

Check for continuity across the NO terminals. The switch could be bad. Are you positive the horns are wired correctly and that the relay is good? What happens if you touch the two horn switch wires together?

[edwardb]

Check for continuity across the NO terminals. The switch could be bad. Are you positive the horns are wired correctly and that the relay is good? What happens if you touch the two horn switch wires together?

Beat me to it. Almost word-for-word what my response would have been. FWIW. :o

[hennessyVV]

Check for continuity across the NO terminals. The switch could be bad. Are you positive the horns are wired correctly and that the relay is good? What happens if you touch the two horn switch wires together?

Checked for continuity across the NO terminals in the button and it works. When I touch the two horn switch wires together i just get a loud buzz sound.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217808&d=1755697940

[Papa]

Here is a picture from my MK4 build:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84675&d=1524442850

Do you hear the horn relay click when you touch the wires together?

[Papa]

The terminals on the horns are not +/- specific, so as long as you have + and - on each horn it should work. I would recommend reorienting them to give you a bit of slack on the wires, however. One more thing to check is the voltage of your battery. Horns may not work without full voltage from your battery. And also check the fuse.

[weendoggy]

Another circuit test is to simply connect a test light to the HORN green feed wire at the horn. Disconnect both green wires, connect test light to ground, push button, light works, all good. No light, problem. As mentioned, low battery voltage/amp can make it show the light, but not the horn load. If you have good strong battery voltage, you can tune most horns.

[dbo_texas]

I used the billet button w/ Ron Frances and detailed the wiring HERE (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40632-ATX-MKIV-9644-Coyote-Build-Thread-(Index-Post-137)&p=582668&viewfull=1#post582668) on my build thread. Read the notes in the bottom right corner and it talks about the billet button wire colors. One more thing --> double check your battery voltage. I had a bad battery initially (was reading 11.8V but that is a sign of a bad battery. Once symptom was the horn wouldn't sound properly. Maybe check your battery is still good? It's amazing the number of gremlins I wasted time chasing simply because of a bad battery. I was going crazy until Jeff K. told me to swap it out. Voila 95% of my issues were resolved.

[Wingman06]

Look around minute 25:40 https://youtu.be/tYnP6gEp7pQ

[hennessyVV]

Thank you all for the quick responses. I am currently using a bench power supply. I will pick up a battery and report back.

Now I am wondering if the bench power supply is not supplying enough power to test my wilwood electronic e brake as well....hmm.

[edwardb]

Thank you all for the quick responses. I am currently using a bench power supply. I will pick up a battery and report back.

Now I am wondering if the bench power supply is not supplying enough power to test my wilwood electronic e brake as well....hmm.

I suspect you're onto something there. I use a 12amp regulated power supply when I'm doing my wiring, and for some circuits it's not enough. I vaguely remember it wouldn't honk the horns. Regardless, easy for you to check with an actual battery. I suspect you'll be fine. Simple circuit and not much to go wrong.

[hennessyVV]

That was the culprit, the bench power supply powered everything except for my horn and wilwood epb.


https://youtube.com/shorts/dTvPLduwCXs?feature=share

It works! Thank you all for the speedy responses!