RickShank's Roadster Build - P/S Reservoir, strike 2

[rickshank]

I'll save some of the info I've shared on a motorsports forum I'm on, but I wanted to get my thread started here. For reasons under my control, I'm in between jobs at the moment so I've got time, and hopefully the drive and ability to get a FF kit done. I've been involved in motorsports for >20 years, rebuilt engines, converted to Megasquirt EFI, etc. FF seems like the most "mass market" kit car out there with plenty of OEM, 3rd party vendor, and most importantly, enthusiast support network.

Key Dates

July 15, 2025 – Order placed with Factory Five
July 15, 2025 – Order placed with Forte’s Parts Connection (engine, trans, rear end )
August 23, 2025 – FF Roadster Kit complete at Factory Five
August 25-27, 2025 – Planned road trip from Harmony, PA to Wareham, MA to pick up kit and drivetrain
Sept 1-22, 2025 - Overseas travel to visit friends from my expat days.
Sept 26-28 - Factory Five Build School in Flint, MI.


Build Information

Factory Five MKV Roadster kit w/ PS/AC

Powder coated chassis
SS side pipes
IRS rear
18x9” F, 18x11” R Halibrand-style wheels
I need defrost / wipers for PA enhance inspection as part of the process. Supposedly, FF's heat/defrost only kit w/o A/C doesn't work on the MKV chassis yet.


Blueprint Engines 347ci stroker - I wanted a vintage Ford motor when the hood was opened, otherwise I'd do a Coyote and make more power for the $, probably.

Edelbrock ProFlow 4 EFI
TKX transmission, 3.55 gears

[rickshank]

August 16, 2025
A collection of days over the past few weeks, mostly preparing for the soon-to-be-arriving kit. A few tools/items needed to be procured:
• #30 drill bits – used for 1/8” rivets
• #10 drill bits – used for 3/16” rivets
• (4) tubes GE Sil-II silicone
• (4) cans 3M Super #77 adhesive spray
• Sunex #10213 ball joint socket (4 sided) 1-59/64”
• Cleco tool & mix of 1/8” + 3/16” Clecos for AL panel temporary fastening
• Plenty of other things are needed, I just so happen to have them

Two things needed built for both pickup and initial setup. First is the body buck, a wooden form that holds the fiberglass body as it comes on top of the bare chassis. It helps to prevent cracking by supporting it in key areas. The pattern is in the back of the FF build manual and is cut from a 4x8 sheet of 7/16” OSB. I modified it slightly to be able to put it on casters as well as be able to pick it up with pallet forks. I’ll store the body on top of the 4-post storage lift until it’s needed.

The second item is the chassis dolly. This is primarily needed for the trip home, but I can see how it can be handy to have around until the roadster rolls. I built this without wheels for now with a couple beams that raise it up another 5”. This will give a solid support for tying down to the car trailer and allow me to lift it up to put casters on it once it’s home. It’s 60” long by 40” wide and target with the 6” casters is about 18” off the floor. With the new MKV chassis, the old tube chassis spines are gone, replaced with a more modern space frame from square tubing.

Planning to pick the kit and drivetrain up the week of August 25th in Wareham, MA (about 10+ hours towing) with my 8’ bed pickup and 18’ open car trailer. I’ll get the days picked this coming week once I can get a feel for the weather with Hurricane Erin occurring now in the Caribbean.

Chassis Dolly (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/54724676981/in/album-72177720328391950)
Body Buck (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/54724895044/in/album-72177720328391950)

[rickster991]

Welcome to the madness!

[Mike.Bray]

A Forte 347 with a Pro Flo is going to be a nice combination in that car. Congratulations.

[cv2065]

You picked the right company Rick. After I built my first FFR Roadster and sold it, I did shop around a bit to see what else was out there. Superlite, RCR, Ultima, DDR, etc. All had some decent offerings but either the cars were not sorted and needed a tremendous amount of fabrication, or had no manuals and no guidance, or the community forum support was nonexistent (especially with Superlite and DDR), or politics around crazy stuff like just getting replacement parts or sheer high cost alone.

All brought me back to FFR. There is no better company in the replica world.

Good luck with your build!

[gbranham]

You're gonna love that ProFlo4.

Greg

[rponfick]

I have seen where body buck is not really needed any longer. My MK5 body is sitting on my 4 post lift with minimal bracing recommended by FFR. Under the lift is where everything else is stored. Some type of chassis dolly is really needed to move the thing around during construction and make it high enough to get under when you need to.
Ralph

[rickshank]

It’s definitely not needed per FF. I’m burning some time before kit pickup and I had the wood from the departed fence.

I’ll likely use the lift when I need it.

[rickshank]

August 27, 2025 - Arrival

My MKV kit was wrapped up at the factory on August 23rd. Given that I have a bit of free time on my hands, it was worth the time and money saved to go get the kit as well as the drivetrain since it was kind of in the area. My dad came along, and we drove out on Monday and stayed not too far from the factory for the night. First stop was Factory Five Racing. Holy crap! There are a lot of boxes in the MKV kit! I had a forum photo of a person that picked up a roadster kit + drivetrain and seemed to have plenty of room. I have an 8’ bed and an 18’ open trailer. It barely fit with boxes inside the car, under the car, etc. Got the drivetrain over at Forte’s Parts Connection, about an hour away but about 25 minutes out of the way for our route home. Got home late Tuesday and just left the stuff loaded up. On Wednesday, I couldn’t help but to start unloading and getting things collected. Unloaded the body/chassis with an engine lift, using very similar lift point to what I saw the FFR crew doing. I used a box of brake rotors in an appropriate floor area to get way better balance since I was doing this slowly with one person. No drama and got it off the trailer and onto the chassis dolly again, this time with casters. Drivetrain was easy with the tractor having no problem picking up the pallet. I unloaded all the boxes. I’ll get a count later, but it’s around 40. Some are light, some are “Mustang Super 8.8 Center Section” weight.

After putting the car in the lift bay, the next order of business is inventory. Factory Five is pretty well organized in this regard. Every part (well, sometimes it’s a small collection of parts likely sourced as a unit) has a 5-digit code. Each box is numbered clearly and there is an inventory sheet(s) for each box. You get a copy of their checklist with a column to double-check their work. It’s a chance to get a feel for what I’m getting into, look for damage, and identify any missing pieces. It’ll be a bit of a chore to get through it. For me, I’m moving the parts up to my loft to a set of shelves just for this project.

I’ve got time lapses of some of today’s activities. I’ll put that into an arrival YouTube video. However, I’m leaving on Labor Day for about 3 weeks, then coming back and attending the Factory Five Roadster Build School up in Flint, MI later that week. So, after this week, this will be sitting a while. I’ll get the video out mid-September and hopefully be on some kind of regular schedule after that.

I’ll count work so far as 3 hours unloading and 3 hours of inventory.

Grand total for build: 6 hours.

Pics/vid
Rolling outside - https://flic.kr/p/2rpZCZr
Picking up the chassis - https://flic.kr/p/2rq1GQc
MKV boxes - https://flic.kr/p/2rpZCV8
Loaded up (short vid) - https://flic.kr/p/2rpVgs7
Drivetrain - https://flic.kr/p/2rpVg15
In place! - https://flic.kr/p/2rpZCJ6

[2nd2none]

Any idea what the chassis/body weigh? I noticed you have it on the trailer with your chassis dolly but no wheels. When you got home, how did you get it off the trailer? Is it light enough for a couple people to pick it up and move?

[rickshank]

Any idea what the chassis/body weigh? I noticed you have it on the trailer with your chassis dolly but no wheels. When you got home, how did you get it off the trailer? Is it light enough for a couple people to pick it up and move?

I think the FF catalog says the MKV chassis is ~410 lbs and most estimates for the body I've seen are under 100. So 500 lbs.

My original plan was to put the dolly up another 5" with some wood so I could get my tractor with pallet forks under it. When loading the car at FF, it was too high. So we put it flat on the dolly, no wheels still. I used an engine lift from the side to pick it up using the chassis and a couple 2' slings. I did this solo, but it would be much easier and less nail-biting with two people. With the body on, the only place to lift from is underneath the chassis or from the cockpit opening.

[rickshank]

Ok - trying to get through the inventory before I leave for a few weeks.

I assume box numbers are specific to MKV, but regardless, related to chassis harness/fuse/horn -
What is 17578 ON-OFF Connector and 17579 ON-ON Connector?
Also not sure what the attached picture is.


A few boxes later - Front Brakes (11" 2-piston non-wildwood)
15129 1/2 ROLLBAR BOX
218233

[rickster991]

That’s the inertia switch.

[rickshank]

Thanks! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inertial_switch

I'll go through those two boxes again for ON-OFF + ON-ON connectors and the 1/2 ROLLBAR BOX today.

[rponfick]

I asked the same question on the on-on and on-off connectors. They are wired connectors that evidently attach to two dash buttons: one horn, and the other button has what looks like a headlight emblem on the button. Still unsure what the light one is for or does it replace the headlight switch. One has three wires (horn), and the other has 8 wires attached to it.
Not sure if this helps.
Ralph

[rickshank]

Ralph - THANKS!

The headlight switch is the high beam switch according to the packing list. For others in future - these are the button receptacle pigtails for the high beams and for the horn.

Now to try pass 2 at the AC box.

[rickshank]

I'm traveling, so living vicariously through the ongoing build threads. My MKV kit is resting comfortably at home, inventory mostly complete, and I'll be attending the build school end of this month.

There is a revision update to the FF MKV Roadster build manual online - https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/manuals/mk5-roadster-manual.pdf

General Updates
Terminology refinements: Some phrases were clarified for better readability (e.g., “torque specs” changed to “recommended torque values”).
Safety notes: Additional warnings and cautions were added in Rev 1M, especially around electrical and fuel systems.
Tool lists: Expanded in Rev 1M to include more specific socket sizes and specialty tools.

Most Significant Changes in Rev 1M

Suspension alignment specs updated — clearer values and optional performance setups added
Brake system part numbers revised — includes compatibility notes for fluid and fittings
Electrical diagrams enhanced — fuse box labeling and routing visuals now more detailed
Tool lists expanded — socket sizes and specialty tools now listed per section
Photos upgraded — sharper images, better lighting, and clearer component callouts
Frame prep instructions clarified — weld inspection and surface prep more thoroughly explained
Interior install steps added — optional sound insulation and seat bracket variations included
Final checklist expanded — includes emissions compliance notes and state-specific guidance
Safety warnings added — especially around fuel system, electrical, and torque procedures
Table of contents reformatted — easier to scan, with renamed section headers for clarity


(used Microsoft Copilot for differences)

Happy building!

[rickshank]

5 weeks since pickup, and I've been itching to get into this. Finally happened. Since I picked it up, I spent almost a month overseas, came back for a few days, and off to build school. Got some stuff prepped this week and my dad stopped up today and the project officially kicked off.

Impatient me, I had the body off the first week it was home. It can be done solo with a 2 post lift, but certainly 2 people is a lot less sketchy. We put the body back on. There was potentially a few spots that we were told to look for at the build school, and 2 spots will need trimmed. Rear AL that runs parallel to frame on driver's side, as well as body against the rear/seatback area was super close to the panel. Marked those, and body came back off and onto the buck with the doors/etc inside the buck.

219695

I wanted to finish some of the SS pieces and I'd rather learn something that doesn't need to be 100% perfect vs just farming it out. Bought an Eastwood dual voltage powder coating gun and a convection oven (1 broken burner) off marketplace for $50 yesterday. I'm learning. Not ready for prime time, but for the e-brake assembly, it's good.

219696219697

Car wise, made some decent progress,

1) Marked all AL panels on the car with a letter and grabbed a photo for later. There are diagrams, but this will help.
2) Made frame outlines on the AL panels.
3) Install power steering rack , upper & lower control arms, front shocks/springs.
4) stuck on the optional / non-FF swaybar. Calling that shop tomorrow. Wrong hardware & wrong swaybar mount. I assume it's for a Mark4 chassis not Mark5.
5) Not totally stuck moving forward, so I've got stuff to do.

219698

Pre-work being done - disassembled one front caliper, painting it. The main piece went great, I flubbed the early coats for the bracket. I'll sandblast that tomorrow and do that one over. Then disassemble the other 3 calipers and do the same. I assume I can't get the rears fully apart (cable e-brake), so that may just get some masking. More powder coating.

Still have backordered/late parts - wiring harness, roll hoop (may order 2nd one, I think I'll like that even if it's not true to the original), rear IRS knuckles/arms. IRS stuff should be here Saturday which is good.

Next up - front spindles. Muscling the IRS center section into place is going to be fun. Ford Super 8.8 is 105 lbs, I think. I can always keep myself busy with pedal assembly, fuel tank prep, e-brake handle build, etc.

Unplanned hardware store trip counter: 1.

[JayOH]

Unplanned hardware store trip counter: 1.

You owe me a new keyboard, sounds like something my wife would tally for future use against me

[rickshank]

Version 1Q of the MKV Build Manual was released on FF website. https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/manuals/mk5-roadster-manual.pdf

Content Additions & Diagram Updates
New or Expanded Sections in Version 1Q

Engine Bay Body Mount (new § ~p. 385) -Added a subsection within the “Mounting the Body” chapter explaining engine-bay–side brackets, with two new diagrams showing firewall clearance and radiator support tie-ins.

Dash Supports (new § p. 552) -New page detailing dash reinforcement brackets—diagram added showing lower dash brace installation.

Fuel System & Venting (expanded)

Added small section clarifying hose routing for vent line return (p. 169–171).
Expanded diagram for tank filler neck and cap vent.


Steering System / U-Joint Assembly

Revised layout (p. 220 ff.) with new exploded diagram of steering shafts.
Clarified torque values and shaft phasing.


Body Fitment & Alignment Sections

“Engine Bay Body Mount” and “Hood Fitment” expanded—three new callouts for hinge shims and bump-stop positions.
Additional CAD-style drawings of hinge geometry.


Electrical / Dash Wiring

Turn-signal wiring and ignition switch instructions now separated.
Added subsection “Dash Supports” → clarifies bracket installation order before gauges.


Appendix D – Fluids

Added separate table for Coyote and LS engine cooling capacities.
Notes on DOT 4 vs DOT 3 fluid compatibility.

Appendix E – Torque Specs

Updated with new column for metric equivalents and colored reference in PDF (blue highlight).




Notable Technical Edits
Battery Recommendation

1M: Group 34 battery.
1Q: Group 96R battery (revised to match new tray).

Torque Spec Updates

Revised upper control-arm torque values.
Added table for IRS suspension fasteners (was chart-only before).


Illustration Improvements

New full-page diagrams for front and rear suspension torque sequences.
Added QR code in digital version (page footers) linking to video segments for front-suspension and brake-line installation.


Terminology Changes

“Complete Kit Accelerator Pedal” now separated from “OEM Mustang Pedal” (distinct diagrams).
“Solid Axle Preparation” → slightly renamed subsections to “3-Link Fasteners and Solid Axle Prep.”

[rickshank]

October 4th Update

Total build hours - 35

Completed yesterday/today - front brakes mounted, tie rods on, e-brake assembly built and installed, prepped rear IRS knuckles for install, changed rear wheel studs (to match front).

A friend dropped by to drop off some welding rods he didn't need and check out the car. He was horrified at the build manual instructions saying to use a reciprocating saw on my brand new Ford knuckle.

Powdercoated parts with new fancy-pants Eastwood setup - e-brake assembly & tab for clutch/brake switch. Lots more sitting on the shelf.

Notes - sharp 3/16" drill bit and good strong center punch for the pedal box. My drill was walking. Got a sharp one, and used a center punch + hammer vs an automatic center punch. Piece of cake after that. For the knuckle drilling, I used a step bit to me to 5/8" inside the hole. I used a hammer drill which had a second handle to grab onto and plenty of WD40 for lube. For the cut, I used a 10tpi 6" wood blade. By the second one, I figured out I needed WD40 a lot more often than I thought, and the cut was straighter and half the time at least.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54832650568_a9ee316616.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rxnEF3)E-brake (https://flic.kr/p/2rxnEF3) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54832635649_49ebf466ee.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rxnAeP)Pedal box pre-switch (https://flic.kr/p/2rxnAeP) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54831547767_82f6a674ab.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rxh1Re)Pedal box switch (https://flic.kr/p/2rxh1Re) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54832650528_d38a8e24f7.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rxnEEm)Rear knuckles (https://flic.kr/p/2rxnEEm) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54832727795_53309ddc28.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rxo4Cx)Enlarging tapered hole (https://flic.kr/p/2rxo4Cx) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54832650653_db395ab45e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rxnEGv)Cutting off ear (https://flic.kr/p/2rxnEGv) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54831547797_dac486924c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rxh1RK)Belt sander + quick sandblast (https://flic.kr/p/2rxh1RK) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[rickshank]

Also - tires for the 18" Halibrands:

I'm thinking the Falken 660 (not 660+) - performance/autocross capable, and decent size/price.

255/35ZR18
315/30ZR18

The build manual doesn't have 18" tire info in the recommended sizes, but it seems folks have run this approximately?

[2nd2none]

Also - tires for the 18" Halibrands:

I'm thinking the Falken 660 (not 660+) - performance/autocross capable, and decent size/price.

255/35ZR18
315/30ZR18

The build manual doesn't have 18" tire info in the recommended sizes, but it seems folks have run this approximately?

Those are the recommended tire sizes from FFR. https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/day-15-of-20-all-new-18-halibrand-style-wheels/

[rickshank]

Bouncing around a bit on the build, waiting for some parts (and help for the IRS install). Pedal box is in. Masters are not as I'm waiting for some fittings on top.

For the accelerator pedal, we have a ton of freedom here. First, the bottom hole marked in the manual doesn't exist on my MKV.

As a 5'5" driver and talking to the build school guys, I'm planning on using getting the pedals as far forward as I can with the pushrods. I can clock the accelerator pedal to bring it forward, but I'll want that somewhat aligned with the pedals. I do have an adjustable seat track and I'll use that as well but with a fixed steering column, I want to take up some length in the pedals.

Any tips from any other shorter driver builds?

Thanks!



219872219871

[PMD24]

Not that it matters at this point since you've already made the cuts on the knuckles, but on your next build :), you can cut those in an instant using a cheap Harbor Freight non- ferrous blade on a table saw or miter saw. I show this in my build thread.

Also for your next build, use a reamer instead of a drill to enlarge the holes on the knuckle. Super cheap on Amazon and no sprained wrists. Details also in my thread.

Enjoying following your progress on an MK5.

Pat

[rickshank]

Thanks, Pat.

For the knuckles, it wasn’t horrible but there are better ways. I have a real bandsaw but fixturing it up seemed like a pain. If I do another, I’ll consider my miter saw as I think I have a high tooth count blade.

For the drill - no drama involved, plenty of lube and not a lot of drill pressure, nice sharp bit.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Any tips from any other shorter driver builds?

Thanks!



The irony is that after having spent years making mods and adjustments to fit the bug & tall guys into the earlier cars we’re now looking at what changes we can make to the Mk5 to better fit the not so big & tall! Now that my knees have collapsed I’m a little over 5’8” but some of the changes I made might help you feel more comfortable. The first thing I noticed when I got in the prototype was that for me (and what I’m used to after over 17 years of driving the earlier roadsters) the seat is low, the steering wheel is high and it’s angle is wrong and the pedals are too far off of the floor. I raised the mid point bearing as high as possible and lowered the rear one (farthest inward) by about 3/4”. This brought the wheel into the same position as the earlier roadsters with the steering shaft about 5.5” down from the cowl and the angle of the wheel at 18 degrees from vertical rather than 25 as it is in the unmodified Mk5. I have Kirkey low back vintage buckets raised about 4” off of the floor and tipped back. This put me in the same place in the car as I’m accustomed to and also had the wheel into the “right” height and angle. An addition I still felt like the pedals were a bit too far off of the floor. My friend Henry Renaud (65 cobradude) visited recently and when he got in the car he concurred so I’ve now lowered the pedal box by about 3/4”. With all this done the Mk5 seating and control position feels much more like what I’m used to and comfortable with. If someone doesn’t have a history of driving these cars I’m sure they’d get in and be completely satisfied but for me it was well worth the effort to get the car fitted to me.

Jeff

[rickshank]

Jeff, thanks for the tips! Regardless of MKV or not, this was going to be an issue. I wouldn't be able to drive a 33 Hot Rod without a bunch of work (sat in one at the build school).

I'm going to start with pedal adjustments as far forward as I can get, match the accelerator, move the steering wheel as you suggested, and I see what I can do with the seat angle and position. I'll leave dropping the pedal box for later. Did you just bolt it from the bottom, or did you cut the mounts and move them on the chassis?

I guess I'll get some blocks of wood to at least start guesstimating the seat position before I fab something up from steel.

Thanks again,

-Rick

[PNWTim]

The irony is that after having spent years making mods and adjustments to fit the bug & tall guys into the earlier cars we’re now looking at what changes we can make to the Mk5 to better fit the not so big & tall! Now that my knees have collapsed I’m a little over 5’8” but some of the changes I made might help you feel more comfortable. The first thing I noticed when I got in the prototype was that for me (and what I’m used to after over 17 years of driving the earlier roadsters) the seat is low, the steering wheel is high and it’s angle is wrong and the pedals are too far off of the floor. I raised the mid point bearing as high as possible and lowered the rear one (farthest inward) by about 3/4”. This brought the wheel into the same position as the earlier roadsters with the steering shaft about 5.5” down from the cowl and the angle of the wheel at 18 degrees from vertical rather than 25 as it is in the unmodified Mk5. I have Kirkey low back vintage buckets raised about 4” off of the floor and tipped back. This put me in the same place in the car as I’m accustomed to and also had the wheel into the “right” height and angle. An addition I still felt like the pedals were a bit too far off of the floor. My friend Henry Renaud (65 cobradude) visited recently and when he got in the car he concurred so I’ve now lowered the pedal box by about 3/4”. With all this done the Mk5 seating and control position feels much more like what I’m used to and comfortable with. If someone doesn’t have a history of driving these cars I’m sure they’d get in and be completely satisfied but for me it was well worth the effort to get the car fitted to me.

Jeff

Hi Jeff - I am curious what you had to do to lower the pedal box? Since it's kind of sandwiched in there did you simply use spacers for the left (looking forward) mounts and then go under the right side mount?

[rponfick]

I am close to Jeff's measurements at 4" for the standard FFR bucket seats, and currently at about .6"spacer under the rearmost steering bearing. I may go to the 3/4" used by Jeff.
I am about 5'10" tall if I stretch it.
Ralph

[rickshank]

Making some progress.

My dad stopped up and with some photos/write-ups from others, we got the center section for the IRS installed in about 2 hours. Taking our time and trying some different things.

The bolts I ordered from Mcmaster-carr showed up yesterday, so I turned those into tapered drift pins that another builder mentioned. First taper on the lathe, used the compound (which *really* limits how shallow of a taper and the overall length), and then cleaned them up a bit. These were duplicates of the front bolts. Basically, we got the nose of the center up in, kept pulling it up with ratchet straps and a jack, then eventually got the front close enough to use the pins. Then bolt the rear, then replace the pins up front with the bolts. Then torque it all up.

Next up was the rear control arms (forged AL from Factory Five). No big surprises there. A few builders had noted some mounts may be tight and they get opened up with some all thread/washers/nuts. Pretty simple. Then a round file to clean up the powder coating on the holes. Confirm the bolt goes In *before* fighting the arm/metal sleeve. Torqued those, greased those. Gas tank went up in after swapping the parts-bin filler grommet for the Ford OEM one that showed up today. Had to run to the hardware store to get some longer 3/8 bolts for the initial tightening of the gas tank straps, then I was able to swap the bolts. They were tight for a couple reasons - first, new so not bent around a tank perfectly, and I may have twisted them a bit trying to open the pivot side with a tapered pin for the bolt to fit.

Steps backwards - rear hubs had to come off the spindles after seeing at least one person having clearance issues with the wheel fake knockoffs. Sure enough, mine hit as well. I need to shorten the studs up a bit. I pulled a few studs on with lug nuts (not my preferred way), so I'll swap the studs out and keep these as backups. Cheap peace of mind. Haven't decided how to shorten them yet. They do have a bit of a bull nose on them so that can go. Chucking them up the lathe might be a challenge .

Plumbing fittings for reservoir feeds to master cylinders came in today, so pedal box work can move forward again. But I'll likely finish the rear suspension. Tires came in (Falken 660 / non-plus) - 255/315s. When I'm stuck/want a change I'll mount/balance those.

Unscheduled hardware store runs to date: 2
Total build hours: 57 (52 me, 5 helpers)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54841109552_3b05e71f4d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ry82eA)Drift pins for center section (https://flic.kr/p/2ry82eA) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54841109562_c1191e8cf1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ry82eL)IRS Center installed! (https://flic.kr/p/2ry82eL) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54842294290_f9bd14c945.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rye6q7)IRS Center (https://flic.kr/p/2rye6q7) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54841109507_7a9968014b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ry82dP)Oct08 update (https://flic.kr/p/2ry82dP) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54842210129_004c7f013a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rydEp4)Oct08 Update (https://flic.kr/p/2rydEp4) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
​​​​​​​https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54842294365_0735f37e89.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rye6rp)Oct08 Update (https://flic.kr/p/2rye6rp) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[rickshank]

11.65 brake / e-Brake / IRS question

Edit - found the bag. My fault. Now to move the calipers.

[Dondero14]

Did you not use the bracket for the 11.65" brakes"?

[rickshank]

I am now. I didn't see the extra supplemental instructions so I just installed them without a bracket at first.

[Dondero14]

I'm battling with that part myself. The directions are terrible for that install. When running the ebrake cable, the directions show the 13" brakes and not the 11.65" brakes, (can see from the mounting bracket and location of the calipers). Just be aware that the 12 point bolt hardware used to attach the calipers to the bracket will more than likely get in the way of being able to get the Ebrake through the hole properly. I was told recently by a builder to countersink the hole on the bracket below the passage for the ebrake and use a flat head to allow space for it to pass through and connect to the caliper.

[rickshank]

Made some progress on passenger side aluminum waiting for bolts from Mcmaster to show up.

Got a notification they arrived, so I pivoted back to brakes.

The brackets I have for my kit (July MKV), 11.65" IRS brakes , look like this: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/IRS-2015-11.65in-BRAKES-rev-C.pdf

First problem, I need to change the lower bolt (I replaced the 12 point with a 6 point that was longer - the 6 point interferes). Second, I'm not sure about the routing of the e-Brake cable. The instructions, page 13, show a 13" brake setup I believe on a MK4. (tubular arms, caliper near top of rotor), which doesn't apply to me.

Any thoughts on the second?

Thanks!
-Rick

However, that just rotates the brakes a bit upwards.

[rickshank]

I'm going to try this method of cable routing/retention today - https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40769-11-65-IRS-rear-brake-for-15-inches-wheels-E-brake-cable-to-caliper-problem&p=467490&viewfull=1#post467490

I'll remove the longer hex head bolt I've installed (50-55 mm vs 45) for now. I can get a 12 point 50mm (max length) grade 12.9 bolt from McMaster-Carr, that'll be here Tuesday.

[PMD24]

I detailed my struggles and solutions with the brake calipers and cables in posts 70 through 87 of my build thread. There might be something in there that's helpful.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50256-Pat-s-MK4-Build-Thread-Spencerport-NY-Ebrake-Final-Install&p=571418&viewfull=1#post571418

[rickshank]

Huge help! Thank you!

I still need a longer 12 point for the passenger side. Not enough thread engagement with the spacer setup to center the caliper.

Here’s my routing thought. I’ll make a small bracket that attaches to the bolt here, and put a P clip on that.
220355220356

[PMD24]

Huge help! Thank you!

I still need a longer 12 point for the passenger side. Not enough thread engagement with the spacer setup to center the caliper.

Here’s my routing thought. I’ll make a small bracket that attaches to the bolt here, and put a P clip on that.
220355220356

Yeah, when I did mine, the spacer needs varied a lot from what the manual suggested. Extras here, none there, etc. I can see how it might push things to the point of needing a different length.

Your routing and fastening idea seems like it will work fine. Looks like you are going under the nut, where I chose to go over. To check my routing, I used a floor jack to move the suspension up and down. I think I had to temporarily disconnect one end of the shock to do that. Or maybe unscrew the adjusting collar. Can't remember. But, it's a sure way to know if your path has any interference points.

[rickshank]

Current situation - went from 1 AL panel installed to 10. 5 for the inner/front footbox areas, 2 floor pans, 2 door sides, and the rear cockpit panel above. First alignment/mockup of the turn signal went reasonably well. 4 hours? As edwardb experienced, I had to adjust the angle of the mounting bracket to get better alignment with the steering shaft. I opened it up about 4-5 degrees.

Clorox wipes do work pretty well for cleaning up still-wet silicone. I stole Jeff's idea to scotch-brite/clear the exposed panels. They're not amazing, but way better than if I just cleaned them with acetone.

Brakes - 1 step closer, 1/2 step back. Figured out how they want you to mount these. I bought longer bolts from Mcmaster, turns out the one bolt that was weird to me (12 point when the others were 6) mattered for e-Brake clearance. Welp, new bolts coming Tuesday. However, it seems to fit. I need to make a bracket on the bottom of the a-arm to hold the cable where I want. Per PMD's note above, I'm going to dry-run it through the suspension travel to make sure, and also check if I can go above the bolt as he did before I make up the bracket.

I need to spend a little bit reading ahead and seeing what's next. I think there are a few more panels, steering shaft final install, brake reservoir plumbing, then fuel/brake hard line plumbing (bending, fittings, mounting). This lets me know what I need to prepare (more powder coating, making brackets, etc)


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54866432710_706cfaa953.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rAmNVL)Steering shaft mock up (https://flic.kr/p/2rAmNVL) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54865282872_9e1a96d652.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rAfV7Y)Accelerator pedal mock up (https://flic.kr/p/2rAfV7Y) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54865283182_1d6ae79064.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rAfVdj)Passenger cockpit (https://flic.kr/p/2rAfVdj) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

​​​​​​​https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54865283007_8016186a58.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rAfVai)Passenger footbox - brushed (https://flic.kr/p/2rAfVai) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[rickshank]

Any issues with running the 11” brake soft lines like this? The 20” line is a bit much, but this seems to give plenty of slack. Once I finally the steering shaft (I had it out for panel install), I’ll adjust the amount of slack on each side and use a stainless zip tie. 220540

[RobHartley]

At the build school this was a location they recommended for the flexible brake line so that you didn't have to modify the aluminum panel. Just a thought...
220616

[rickshank]

This was one of those weeks I just needed to get through.

Rear brakes - *finally* got the right hardware / spacer setup. Background - 11.6" rear brakes / mix of Saturn / Ford I think. There's a bracket from FF to bolt to the IRS hubs. You need to center the caliper over the rotor, which you do with spacers. Unless you run out of room on the bolt, then you change the bolt. This was a 3x problem. First, replacement bolt was hex, not 12 point. Wrong, cable interference. Then, get 12 point bolt from Mcmaster. Wrong, it's 14mm, not 12mm, interference. Bel-metric was able to the me the right bolt. I don't know how many days this was, but too many.

Then, the emergency brake cable comes almost directly downwards, and needs something to keep the axle from getting it wrapped up. I made a small bracket from some 3"x.125 AL,bolted to the lower control arm. Needed new bolt here so that the nylon engaged in the locknut. AN lines - used Fragola PTFE lined hose. -4 for reservoirs. Which is more of a pain to assemble than the upcoming -6 for fuel.

Brake plumbing - AN lines for reservoirs to the non-standard Tilton MCs. That was mostly fine. It's tight. Very tight. If I was doing it from scratch, I'd do it a bit differently and give myself more room. Double-flared lines - ditched the FF lines (green coated steel for NiCopp). I wanted correct length, no unions, and I didn't mine flaring the lines. Used the Eastwood $$$ kit, after the first few practice tries, I was good. Getting the 2 lines from the MCs to the brake booster as one piece was more than difficult for my first time doing hard lines. 1/8" TIG rod helps for mockups and you get 36" to work with. More experienced folks would be better at how much the bend eats up, keeping things clocked better, etc.

Fuel lines - -6AN feed/return. It's overkill on my 347, but there's not a lot of options between 5/16 hard line / 1/4" return from FF and this. If I ever want more power, the fuel lines will handle it. I chose to run hard lines through the tunnel. I'll have a driveshaft safety loop, but there isn't any other place to put lines other than the tunnel. Otherwise the lines will hit ground first. I used some fancy adapters from Breeze Automotive to go from the 3/8" NiCopp to -6AN male. I need some AN fittings to move forward, I bought just a few so I wouldn't have a ton of unused ones. I want to 3d print custom width spacers/clamps for the hard lines front and rear to keep them oriented like I have them.

I need to read up to see what's next. I think....engine/trans, so that means the Mid-Shift kit needs done.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897438806_379ae2cc7a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD6HXC)Plumbing reservoir (https://flic.kr/p/2rD6HXC) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897742720_0ca2a8accd.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD8hiw)Pedal box plumbed (https://flic.kr/p/2rD8hiw) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897681769_d5f83b6c3c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7YbD)Plumbing front (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7YbD) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897670158_68dddbcbfb.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7UJs)Plumbing pass side (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7UJs) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897670108_6ae39a4abd.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7UHA)Plumbing tunnel (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7UHA) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

​​​​​​​

[rickshank]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54896570402_657eb6a326.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD2gP9)Plumbing rear (https://flic.kr/p/2rD2gP9) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897438866_1cc6010e8b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD6HYE)Rear 11.6 brakes (https://flic.kr/p/2rD6HYE) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[rickster991]

Looks good! Install the front panels before you go too much further as they will interfere with everything you do up front. Or you can wait and cut them up to make them fit as I did.

[rickshank]

Which ones?

[rickshank]

Silver Star Transmissions / SST Front Shift conversion complete on my TKX.

1) Remove cover & stock shifter
2) Drive out 3 roll pins / you'll collect them later
3) Remove the neutral safety shift sensor/remove detent/reinstall nss sensor
4) Remove tail section
5) Collect roll pins / discard the shifter arms / shaft
6) Cut the two shift rods (they provide a collar as guide. Hardened steel, cutoff wheel with lots of chip protection & wet the towels/rags as plenty of hot sparks
7) Slowly reinstall case, place new selectors in place while the case is going back on.
8) Install couple bolts for now
9) Drive in 3 roll pins.
10) Install all case bolts
11) Realize you forgot the steel gasket for the tail case, go to Step 4 and repeat.
12) Reinstall cover with old (still new) gasket
13) Install new shifter (I used moly grease here)
14) Torque items - few items are 5-6 ft lbs, so this is pretty small. Don't strip this stuff.
15) Test shift action.


Adding a Flickr link to the 16 photos. https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/albums/72177720330112199

[rickster991]

Which ones?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51417-Rick-s-Mark-V-Roadster-Build&p=588411&viewfull=1#post588411

[rickshank]

Need some advice on where I can skip ahead to keep moving without boxing myself in/having to remove stuff.

- All suspension on
- Footbox inside/front panels / floor pan / rear cockpit AL on
- Pedal box installed / brake booster / plumbed
- Fuel lines from tank / filter done to rear of engine bay (AN to hard lines - -6AN fittings coming out of tunnel)
- Brakes 90% - waiting for replacement rear 11.65 adapter brackets as I tweaked the originals mounting with no spacer on once side. puts the caliper at an angle. Checked the brackets and one is definitely not flat. Waiting for replacement. Called FF, they're getting an update for me, may have lost the order from last Friday.
- Engine / trans ready to drop in . Forward shift kit installed on TKX
- Dave @ FF recommended I wait for chassis harness to be laid in / through front panels before dropping engine/trans in for first timer.
- Wiring harness on POL - no ETA yet from Ron Francis.
- Battery tray - going to update to new MKV setup. I'll make my own mounting brackets, but I'll buy the AL battery tray from them. FF doesn't have an engineering part number yet, and the person that can do it has left for the build school this weekend. Hopefully update on Monday. I don't want to cut/smooth the two frame diagonals until I'm 100% sure they're going to sell/ship me the new tray.

I know there is always something else that can be done - any tips? I was thinking about trunk AL, but without the harness, i'm making the wiring harder.

Thanks!!!

[edwardb]

Trunk aluminum can be drilled and Cleco'd. Just not permanently attached yet. Although trunk sides and back don't get in the way of anything.
Steering column and turn signal assembly
Instrument panel
Assemble headlights and fit to body
Same for rear lights
Never to soon to start tweaking the body. Straighten/clean perimeter, etc.

[rickshank]

Paul - thank you! I was hoping you'd be one of the folks to respond.


Steering/turn signal cam stuff done (that was ~6 hours of "therapy" :) ).

Great point on cleco for the panels - I'll get after that. I'll do that and the gauges. I'll begin reading more about the body prep, particular the perimeter stuff and lights.

Any reason to not get after Dynamat-type installation for the interior? I don't have it yet but Summit usually delivers next day.

[rickshank]

Anyone have a bit of a struggle with the trunk recess box hitting the fuel tank? I was just test fitting it in the cleco'd trunk panel and while it's tight, it hits the fuel tank on the passenger side. I made sure that the sheet metal for the trunk panel is not holding it up, there is clearance on all 4 sides. The chassis is driving the location for sure. I'm going to try to loosen the tank straps and see if that gives me enough.

[edwardb]

Paul - thank you! I was hoping you'd be one of the folks to respond.


Steering/turn signal cam stuff done (that was ~6 hours of "therapy" :) ).

Great point on cleco for the panels - I'll get after that. I'll do that and the gauges. I'll begin reading more about the body prep, particular the perimeter stuff and lights.

Any reason to not get after Dynamat-type installation for the interior? I don't have it yet but Summit usually delivers next day.

Yeah, I guess you could start laying down insulation. Personally, I prefer to have all the panels in place and I've mainly used Lizard Skin in the past. Not sure yet what I'm doing to use on my Mk5.


Anyone have a bit of a struggle with the trunk recess box hitting the fuel tank? I was just test fitting it in the cleco'd trunk panel and while it's tight, it hits the fuel tank on the passenger side. I made sure that the sheet metal for the trunk panel is not holding it up, there is clearance on all 4 sides. The chassis is driving the location for sure. I'm going to try to loosen the tank straps and see if that gives me enough.

Mine was tight too. FF didn't waste any space there. But I didn't have any interference. You did put the little plastic caps on the downtubes for the tank, right? Also, are you putting the box on top of the trunk floor or underneath? There have been suggestions to put the box underneath the floor (which I didn't do) but maybe that would be enough to cause interference.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You can assemble the windshield. Put together and install the door, hood & trunk latches as well as the hood hinges. Put the roll bar(s) on the chassis and drill them. Build the dash board.

Jeff

[rickshank]

Sorry for late response.

Loosening both straps up (note for next build :) - change those strap bolts to SHCS). This worked like a charm and the drop box fits in. Barely, but it's in.

Trunk sides/bottom now cleco'd. I'll probably grab a few of the front panels that Rickster noted and get those done, as well as prep/cleco the lower rear panel and the trunk drop box.

After that, dash.

[rickshank]

Dorman 610-290 studs are not a go for 11.65" brakes on IRS. Rotor holes are too small for the extended shoulder. Back to the 610-519s (original FF, larger knurl, smaller shoulder.

222013222014

[Jeff Kleiner]

Dorman 610-290 studs are not a go for 11.65" brakes on IRS. Rotor holes are too small for the extended shoulder. Back to the 610-519s (original FF, larger knurl, smaller shoulder.

222013222014

Just curious---why did you go to the Dorman studs rather than sticking with what FFR provided?

Jeff

[rickshank]

Stupidity on my part. My hydraulic press was still down at my dad's shop (not anymore :) ) and had a bit of a mess with trying to pull the originals in with nuts. They didn't sit flush. Thought the smaller knurl of the alternates would be easier for round 2. Not an expensive mistake, but still preventable.

[rickshank]

Morning folks, hope everyone is recovered from their turkey hangover.

As I wait for the parts (chassis harness, swaybars, and maybe, just maybe, purchase of a battery tray), I'm moving forward on what I can.

I might move forward on some insulation on the panels that are complete with their edges complete. That would be the floor, door side of cockpit, and cockpit rear wall. However, the cockpit rear wall has some "jutting" of a panel on both sides. Looking back, that was probably a red flag before I buttoned them in. Do these need trimmed (pulled/cut/edges finished/reinstalled) or what? About 1/4" overhang.

Also - with the A/C kit on the MKV, should i use the Gen3 Cobra instructions? When should some of the cockpit side start? https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/AC-HEATER-DEFROSTER-COUPE-Gen-3-REV-G.pdf

222201222200

[rickster991]

Make sure to use the latest version. But do not use the the locations for valves they use. They will not work for coupe. Also place the condenser on the bottom of the radiator rather than the top as it will get crushed by the body. Check out the later posts in my thread. The other thing I would do for simplicity is not use either of the bulkhead connectors. I did not use it for the heater hoses, but used it for the ac lines. Also since you have the BP 347 make sure to check out the heater hose I had to get for the water pump. Good luck.

[rickshank]

Thanks, Rick! Any feedback on that rear cockpit panel?

I'm waiting on the radiator/condenser until the motor is in.

[rickster991]

Hmm mine overlapped as well. If it bothers you trim it. The seat will cover it otherwise.

[rickshank]

Small but meaningful updates.

1) Brakes - rear . DONE. Finally. Calipers line up in terms of the rotor centerline, etc. Found some other stuff to re-do while I was in there.
2) Wheels on the car, car sits on its own feet. Alignment way off, haven't mocked something up there yet.
3) Trunk/rear panels fitted/cleco'd in place
4) 5 more panels installed on front, one which required brake line clamp to move (thanks, Rickster!). #3/4 here was 10 more panels.
5) Hood/trunk hinges cleaned up, powder coated, and hood hinges assembled. Not much to assemble to trunk hinges.
6) And mentally, big win for me. First *real* part out of the 3d printer that I designed from scratch, not a follow-along exercise. 3/8 nicopp fuel hard lines, Clamping them here keeps them from rotating. Front and rear clamps. Full parametric design, within reason to just update the tubing size, width between centers, socket head cap screw details, hex nut / nylock. Printed in PLA for now, I have a roll of ASA that I'll dry and print. After I move the printer at least temporarily to the garage for that print due to fumes. This will be useful for AN lines as well.

I'll do some insulation next, but only on panels where the adjacent panels are done as well. Rear cockpit wall, cockpit floor (staying a bit back from tunnel), and vertical door area. Floor is turned up to warm up the insulation panels.

Also still have windshield to prep, rollbars to test fit/drill and and dash panel to start. Big thing I'm waiting for is the RF wiring harness, still. I don't know if those are different based on options (non-coyote, A/C, wipers), but I picked up my kit at the end of August and I'm still waiting.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54953202697_2d6214ae3e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ2wC2)Trunk panels (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ2wC2) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54954318169_09f75ac4f0.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8fdi)More panels (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8fdi) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54954378420_3195b83394.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8y87)Hood hinge prep (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8y87) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54954318119_80d7cd02d2.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8fcr)3d print separator (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8fcr) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54954378360_ac5349841d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8y75)Fuel line separator (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8y75) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[TrackDay17]

Small but meaningful updates.

1) Brakes - rear . DONE. Finally. Calipers line up in terms of the rotor centerline, etc. Found some other stuff to re-do while I was in there.
2) Wheels on the car, car sits on its own feet. Alignment way off, haven't mocked something up there yet.
3) Trunk/rear panels fitted/cleco'd in place
4) 5 more panels installed on front, one which required brake line clamp to move (thanks, Rickster!). #3/4 here was 10 more panels.
5) Hood/trunk hinges cleaned up, powder coated, and hood hinges assembled. Not much to assemble to trunk hinges.
6) And mentally, big win for me. First *real* part out of the 3d printer that I designed from scratch, not a follow-along exercise. 3/8 nicopp fuel hard lines, Clamping them here keeps them from rotating. Front and rear clamps. Full parametric design, within reason to just update the tubing size, width between centers, socket head cap screw details, hex nut / nylock. Printed in PLA for now, I have a roll of ASA that I'll dry and print. After I move the printer at least temporarily to the garage for that print due to fumes. This will be useful for AN lines as well.

I'll do some insulation next, but only on panels where the adjacent panels are done as well. Rear cockpit wall, cockpit floor (staying a bit back from tunnel), and vertical door area. Floor is turned up to warm up the insulation panels.

Also still have windshield to prep, rollbars to test fit/drill and and dash panel to start. Big thing I'm waiting for is the RF wiring harness, still. I don't know if those are different based on options (non-coyote, A/C, wipers), but I picked up my kit at the end of August and I'm still waiting.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54953202697_2d6214ae3e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ2wC2)Trunk panels (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ2wC2) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54954318169_09f75ac4f0.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8fdi)More panels (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8fdi) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54954378420_3195b83394.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8y87)Hood hinge prep (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8y87) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54954318119_80d7cd02d2.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8fcr)3d print separator (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8fcr) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54954378360_ac5349841d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8y75)Fuel line separator (https://flic.kr/p/2rJ8y75) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr


My kit was delivered November 7th and the wiring harness is on of the things on my pol list too.
I'm well behind you though so I have lots to do.
I'm waiting on my rear toe control arms which somehow didn't make it with my other rear end parts.

I'm wondering if I should wait until my fuel tank arrives to drill and cleco the rear trunk portion since it might interfere with the tank.

[rickshank]

My kit was delivered November 7th and the wiring harness is on of the things on my pol list too.
I'm well behind you though so I have lots to do.
I'm waiting on my rear toe control arms which somehow didn't make it with my other rear end parts.

I'm wondering if I should wait until my fuel tank arrives to drill and cleco the rear trunk portion since it might interfere with the tank.

I can't see the rear trunk portion being in the way. Minus the drop section.

[rickshank]

It's been discussed already - the MKV went through an update sometime in the 2nd half of this year for the battery tray setup. I picked up my car at end of August and it's got the original. The new one lets the battery come out of the bottom.

I've been trying to get one of the new trays at least but multiple calls and I'm not able to get one (no part number or pricing nor timeline). I usually ask about my harness while I'm on.

Enter....Rick buys a 3rd printer and learns Autocad Fusion 360. I'm no pro and only a few weeks into CAD/3d printing.

1) made the component mockups as two bodies in Fusion, allowing me to make sure they fit
2) parametric model I could revise dimensions until I was happy.
3) 3d print some versions to test fit. The outer tubes are not parallel, and the starting dimension from the rear has two welds in the way of measuring. Learned how to hack up a body split and create basic dovetail.
4) Plan is to send both part models to SendCutSend - one is just laser cut steel, the other laser cut 5052 AL with a bent lip.
5) I have the battery and waiting for the mount, should be here this week. That'll allow me to put the hardware holes for that in the model. The big red box of my model is the exterior / largest dimensions of the mount from the shop.
6) also sketched up some basic alignment blocks that will be used for welding this thing in. They're in the shot of my bare chassis.
7) How this will work - cut the diagonals back, probably put a cross tube in place just to keep the opening size underneath to a minimum. Instead of grinding down the rear stubs too tight against the chassis, I have a .250" notch in my bracket so I don't damage the original cross tube. Grind/sand clean, use the blocks to mount the bracket (with tray bolt on to minimize distortion), and weld it. Paint it. I might paint some of the bracket first and tape off areas near welds to make final paint easier.

Happy to hear any feedback. Obviously rubber hits the road once I install it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54963307892_73672ce8c8.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJVjxw)Updated Manual (https://flic.kr/p/2rJVjxw) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54964197286_c0880ce45a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJZSVU)Current space from bottom (https://flic.kr/p/2rJZSVU) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54963308017_bc7b9d409b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJVjzF)New tray in place (https://flic.kr/p/2rJVjzF) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54964197296_0e36715dcb.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rJZSW5)3d print test (https://flic.kr/p/2rJZSW5) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54964453619_fcde88c338.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rK2c8r)Model (https://flic.kr/p/2rK2c8r) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[rickshank]

Installing some seat heaters. Standard vinyl roadster seats.

Bottoms are straightforward - take off the glued on panel (marked outline first), cut a groove for the wire, attach pad (slightly trimmed corners), and re-glue.

Top, I've read on some posts that hog ring pliers weren't needed. Not sure if those are the leather seats or different variations. I'm struggling looking at this (and trying to get my hand in there) to see how this can be done without cutting the hog rings.

Any thoughts? I did order a set of pliers/rings from Amazon, $16 or so, here Friday I think. Just in case.

[edwardb]

Installing some seat heaters. Standard vinyl roadster seats.

Bottoms are straightforward - take off the glued on panel (marked outline first), cut a groove for the wire, attach pad (slightly trimmed corners), and re-glue.

Top, I've read on some posts that hog ring pliers weren't needed. Not sure if those are the leather seats or different variations. I'm struggling looking at this (and trying to get my hand in there) to see how this can be done without cutting the hog rings.

Any thoughts? I did order a set of pliers/rings from Amazon, $16 or so, here Friday I think. Just in case.

Just did the seat heaters in my build this past Sunday. Posted about it my build thread. The leather seats that came with my 30th Anniversary kit only had two hog rings total. In the corners and didn't need to be removed. Everything else held in place with plastic channels. Interesting that some seats (I guess the vinyl covered ones?) are still using hog rings. I've done several that were that way. Not hard, just takes longer. They're relatively soft material so easy enough to open with a couple of pliers. Regular or needle nose. Then for reassembly, I used the same rings and closed them back up with regular pliers. Dedicated hog ring pliers might be easier, I don't know. But the process would be similar. Take pictures before taking apart and use to get things back the way they were. Good luck.

[rickshank]

Thanks, Paul! I used the same heaters you did. I was a bit worried they may be too big based on the website dimensions, but they’re a bit smaller and fine.

I’ll grab some photos and also get a second set of hands for that part. It’ll save some frustration.

I wanted to verify I wasn’t missing anything obvious, appreciate the quick note!

[rickshank]

Waiting for a second set of hands for the seat heaters in the back, but my SendCutSend order came in.

2 boxes arrived earlier in the week from FF, unannounced. One was very obvious that it contained sway bars. I was a bit giddy to open the second, smaller but hefty box. Unfortunately, sway bar hardware. No chassis harness yet. 4 months from my pickup in MA.

My version of the updated MKV battery tray (removable from the bottom). I'm just learning CAD/3d printing, this was my second real CAD project. Bracket is 1008 steel, tray is 5052-H32 aluminum. I powder coated the tray before installing. Battery is an Antigravity Li-Ion with restart, but the tray dimensions will hold another battery.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008474523_cdb92a5661.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNUP1x)SendCutSend order (https://flic.kr/p/2rNUP1x) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008565074_97cd0b7e7d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNVgVL)Test fit of steel bracket (https://flic.kr/p/2rNVgVL) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008609665_9640d4447a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNVvbz)Tacked in from bottom (https://flic.kr/p/2rNVvbz) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008301491_717806a0e9.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNTVze)Front view (https://flic.kr/p/2rNTVze) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008301491_717806a0e9.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNTVze)Front view (https://flic.kr/p/2rNTVze) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[2nd2none]

No chassis harness yet. 4 months from my pickup in MA.


Just got my Mk5 kit a few days ago and also missing the chassis harness. Hopefully they have enough coming in so everyone waiting on them gets one.

[danmas]

Waiting for a second set of hands for the seat heaters in the back, but my SendCutSend order came in.

2 boxes arrived earlier in the week from FF, unannounced. One was very obvious that it contained sway bars. I was a bit giddy to open the second, smaller but hefty box. Unfortunately, sway bar hardware. No chassis harness yet. 4 months from my pickup in MA.

My version of the updated MKV battery tray (removable from the bottom). I'm just learning CAD/3d printing, this was my second real CAD project. Bracket is 1008 steel, tray is 5052-H32 aluminum. I powder coated the tray before installing. Battery is an Antigravity Li-Ion with restart, but the tray dimensions will hold another battery.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008474523_cdb92a5661.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNUP1x)SendCutSend order (https://flic.kr/p/2rNUP1x) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008565074_97cd0b7e7d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNVgVL)Test fit of steel bracket (https://flic.kr/p/2rNVgVL) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008609665_9640d4447a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNVvbz)Tacked in from bottom (https://flic.kr/p/2rNVvbz) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008301491_717806a0e9.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNTVze)Front view (https://flic.kr/p/2rNTVze) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55008301491_717806a0e9.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rNTVze)Front view (https://flic.kr/p/2rNTVze) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
Looks great. I’m a bit envious of the 3d printer bit. May do that for next build. Love that you can model it out and then send the files for a steel part. That’s awesome…

[rickshank]

I wanted one before but convinced myself to wait until I could make some models in CAD on my own. It’s been great for that. For the bracket above, I made some quick spacers/alignment pieces to hold the bracket up 1/4” from the bottom of the frame. No fiddling with clamps. $400 for the Bambu P1S. There is a newer one, but that one does what I need just fine.

[PMD24]

Rick, very nice work on the battery tray! Curious if you had any experience before trying the CAD work for 3D printing. I've got an engineering background and lots of work with design plans but no actual CAD experience at all. I'd like to try it but can't commit a ton of time to it. Between skiing, grandkids, and car, I'm already stretched. Good thing I'm retired!

Thanks,

Pat

[rickshank]

I was a total newbie to CAD and always felt overwhelmed even opening the app. I followed some online programs and it didn't "click" last year. I tried it again in November and it clicked.

I'm already looking at my tire changing machine and figuring out a way to sketch up a thick spacer (2 thick plates with a thick piece of rectangular tubing in between vertically for air). The hardest part will be welding that up but I just need to take my time. The spacer will let me do wheels >10 (such as my rear Roadster wheels that I paid for mounting).

[Mike.Bray]

I started out doing my own 3D printing with a little cheapie unit from Amazon. Of course it would only do plastic. In my day job as an R&D engineer I do a lot of 3D printed parts in various metals so of course I farm those out. The absolute best site I've found so far for 3D printing is Craftcloud. https://craftcloud3d.com/

I'm playing around with some ideas to convert my spare set of FFR sidepipes into free flowing sidepipes for my 68 Camaro, something like this. The part outlined in red is the Cobra sidepipe.

223344

I had a couple of the pipes with compound curves 3D printed from stainless steel.

223347

Most of you have seen my steering wheel center insert, Craftcloud printed it in aluminum..

223346

[rickshank]

Mike, very cool!

For the pipes - would a 3d print hold up to the vibrations/heat? Obviously amazing for mock-up but I wonder if there isn't a CNC bend option from a CAD drawing.

I need to check out CraftCloud. I do want to get a mill here, I may start with a bench top unit that can later be converted to CNC.

[Mike.Bray]

For the pipes - would a 3d print hold up to the vibrations/heat? Obviously amazing for mock-up but I wonder if there isn't a CNC bend option from a CAD drawing.

The other two pipes will be conventional mandrel bends and I'll use them to help support the 3D printed ones. They seem pretty robust, they are stainless steel after all. I do have a test piece I've been beating on lol

Yes, I did find options for bending but it's very expensive. VERY. Other option would be to buy bends and cut/weld like I used to do for headers and exhaust. But I'm too old for that now.

[rickshank]

Chassis harness arrived!

Here's a silly question. Where does the firewall installation get covered Step 1 of the Chassis Wiring Harness install is a big hole in the firewall.

Doing a search for firewall in the Roadster manual, as well as the part number 17481, not covered. This seems like I'm missing something dumb.

Excited to get back into this thing!!!
--edit--

Talked to FF today.

Start with the Type 65 coupe instructions. Don't use the RF book that came with the harness (Rev Y, Jan 2025, I assumed it was MKV). It's likely better but not off to a great/clear start. Example, step 1 - "Route the front and rear harness through the transmission tunnel top front panel." That's not where it goes on the Roadster.

Dash will be much later, but it's definitely not covered in the build manual, anywhere.

[rickshank]

Ok, piecing this together with Type 65 Coupe online manual, included RF Manual Rev Y (Jan 25 / apparently MK4), and pieces of Roadster Manual (turn signal).

1 - Aluminium pieces - it looks like the front console piece 17480 (Trans Tunnel Top Front) needs to pass 3 grommets through, and that pieces goes over 60161/60162 (Cockpit Trans Side, L/R). Go ahead and install those? I Won't install the trans tunnel until the wiring is closer to wrapped but I'll drill/cleco it.

2 - Wire groups through the Trans Tunnel . 1- Engine "power" - alt/starter solenoid 2 - sending units 3 - RF EFI bundle 4 - Rear Harness. I'm hoping I join the RF EFI bundle into the Engine Power one, as I suspect it shouldn't go with the sending units. Is 3 right? Any certain distance from the top edge of the tunnel I should aim for to be reasonably hidden?

3 - Front Harness - I think going through 60139 Footbox Inside Upper Wall, Left will be the cleanest and out of the way? I've got AN Bulkheads for hydraulics on the footbox front.

Pics below. Thanks!!!


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55027047341_7444146c49.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rQy14x)Engine Power (https://flic.kr/p/2rQy14x) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55027047386_f00a12f942.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rQy15j)Panels? (https://flic.kr/p/2rQy15j) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55027231183_70ca5acabf.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rQyWHe)Fuse Box (https://flic.kr/p/2rQyWHe) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55027299399_8a76915948.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rQzhZn)Front Harness Route (https://flic.kr/p/2rQzhZn) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[rickshank]

I see the AL pieces being installed after the drivetrain (pg 338 / https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/manuals/mk5-roadster-manual.pdf ). But if the wires feed into the tunnel there, then that comes earlier. Any issues with installing the drivetrain if those 2 side panels are installed and the top cover is loose?

[rickshank]

Dash moving forward. I’ll let the glue dry until tomorrow (3M 90)

Wire harnesses are roughly laid out. I’ll probably drill the console front top tomorrow and then start connecting wires. Probably best to start with the dash wiring and work from there.

223747

[rickshank]

Today's progress - started gauge wiring. The wago-type bus uses the parts from the Ron Francis chassis harness. All of the power/light/ground get bonded and then that gets driven by a dimmer that controls the lighting. Also mapped out the wires in the Dash harness (that connects to the main harness) to see what I have left over. The harness spans at least two generations of these cars, including when the turn signals and hazard lights were a toggle switch, so some work reviewing this stuff is important. Also pulled out the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 stuff to see what overlap there is. Answer - very little. Tach, fuel pump, and fan.

I need to change the RF fuse panel to have the relays driven by the Edelbrock, but that doesn't seem too hard. For those following along at home and know anything about 12V wiring - I think I just need to cut terminals 86 (12V+) and 85 (ground) and connect those to the Edelbrock ,which switches the ground. 30 & 87 stay as designed.

And for the fuel pump relay, insert the Ford inertia switch between Edelbrock Fuel Pump Ground & Fuel Pump Relay terminal 85.

Sound right for the relay changes?

223762
223763

[rickshank]

Ok, some collective help, please.

Dash wiring. I see in the FF MKV Roadster manual (current version, page 283) - cut Pink hazard, Cut Yellow and White for turn signal to prevent back feeding. Ok.

For reference - wiring diagram - https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Chassis-Harness-rev-W.pdf / page 32


1) What about Gray-Turn Flasher FD ? It comes from the fuse panel.
2) For Turn Signal indicator into the GPS Speedo - Clean up the Lt Blue/Dk Green wires (since they won't be going to switches) and connect those from the LF and RF turn signal wires?
3) Remove LR and RR turn signal wires?
4) +5V reference for oil pressure - can I use the Lt Blue Oil Temp wire? I think the Gauge is creating the 5V reference from its 12V source, right?
5) I need 15amps or so for 2 Corbeau seat heaters and a 12V cigarette lighter port (for USB). What's the best way to get this? Rewire the choke? I 'll have wipers and A/C, so those circuits are out.

223803223804223805

[cc2Arider]

Hi Rick,

I'm doing something similar to your question 4) so that I can use the rest of the wiring harness as-intended...

Craig C

[rickshank]

Thanks. #1/2/3 are definitely getting the best of me. I'll look at the diagrams again tomorrow.

[rickster991]

This is from memory, but I documented it in my thread.
1. I followed the instructions and if you are using the turn signal assembly it plugs right into the harness. I cut the indicated wires.
2. I did not use them as the “HR only” harness handles it all.
3. I did whatever the manual said to do.
4. I ran the supplied wire directly from the sensor to the gauge. I did that with all the gauges. I did not use the wires in the harness.
5. I used choke as my signal for EFI. It is switched power. I believe I used radio for my seat heaters, but it is 10 amps. I used wiper wire for my USB, figured I won’t be using wipers much.

Hope this helps. More detail would be in my thread. Good luck…

[rickshank]

Thanks, Rick! I'll check out your thread again. I know to use the HR harness for turn signal, but for the indicators into the Speedo, that's what I'm looking at .
I'm going to give FF a ring before I start cutting the signal stuff out (I think I just splice into the main turn signals for indicator, shortening the mess of wires), and my fuel pump/fan relay plan should work.

[Pete&Scott]

Rick: I decided to go with a Tilton MC for my clutch in my MK5 based on forum suggestions for the 427 and TKX transmission. I like your banjo setup on both the inlet and outlet. I would appreciate part numbers, and the supplier where you purchased those. Thanks.


This was one of those weeks I just needed to get through.

Rear brakes - *finally* got the right hardware / spacer setup. Background - 11.6" rear brakes / mix of Saturn / Ford I think. There's a bracket from FF to bolt to the IRS hubs. You need to center the caliper over the rotor, which you do with spacers. Unless you run out of room on the bolt, then you change the bolt. This was a 3x problem. First, replacement bolt was hex, not 12 point. Wrong, cable interference. Then, get 12 point bolt from Mcmaster. Wrong, it's 14mm, not 12mm, interference. Bel-metric was able to the me the right bolt. I don't know how many days this was, but too many.

Then, the emergency brake cable comes almost directly downwards, and needs something to keep the axle from getting it wrapped up. I made a small bracket from some 3"x.125 AL,bolted to the lower control arm. Needed new bolt here so that the nylon engaged in the locknut. AN lines - used Fragola PTFE lined hose. -4 for reservoirs. Which is more of a pain to assemble than the upcoming -6 for fuel.

Brake plumbing - AN lines for reservoirs to the non-standard Tilton MCs. That was mostly fine. It's tight. Very tight. If I was doing it from scratch, I'd do it a bit differently and give myself more room. Double-flared lines - ditched the FF lines (green coated steel for NiCopp). I wanted correct length, no unions, and I didn't mine flaring the lines. Used the Eastwood $$$ kit, after the first few practice tries, I was good. Getting the 2 lines from the MCs to the brake booster as one piece was more than difficult for my first time doing hard lines. 1/8" TIG rod helps for mockups and you get 36" to work with. More experienced folks would be better at how much the bend eats up, keeping things clocked better, etc.

Fuel lines - -6AN feed/return. It's overkill on my 347, but there's not a lot of options between 5/16 hard line / 1/4" return from FF and this. If I ever want more power, the fuel lines will handle it. I chose to run hard lines through the tunnel. I'll have a driveshaft safety loop, but there isn't any other place to put lines other than the tunnel. Otherwise the lines will hit ground first. I used some fancy adapters from Breeze Automotive to go from the 3/8" NiCopp to -6AN male. I need some AN fittings to move forward, I bought just a few so I wouldn't have a ton of unused ones. I want to 3d print custom width spacers/clamps for the hard lines front and rear to keep them oriented like I have them.

I need to read up to see what's next. I think....engine/trans, so that means the Mid-Shift kit needs done.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897438806_379ae2cc7a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD6HXC)Plumbing reservoir (https://flic.kr/p/2rD6HXC) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897742720_0ca2a8accd.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD8hiw)Pedal box plumbed (https://flic.kr/p/2rD8hiw) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897681769_d5f83b6c3c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7YbD)Plumbing front (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7YbD) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897670158_68dddbcbfb.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7UJs)Plumbing pass side (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7UJs) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54897670108_6ae39a4abd.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7UHA)Plumbing tunnel (https://flic.kr/p/2rD7UHA) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

​​​​​​​

[rponfick]

Pete&Scott, on related question did you decide to use the Tilton 75 or 76? Rick mentions using "non-standard" Tiltons, so maybe he can comment on that also.
I'm working on a MK5 also, and some of the Tiltons fit better than others, mostly for hyd clutch for me as Wilwood is giving me issues.
Thanks, Ralph

[rickshank]

I used Tilton 76s - 3/4 and 13/16 to match the Wilwoods. Would I do that again? No. I'd go with the 75s. The banjo nut on top of the inward MC interferes with the chassis tubes. I literally tightened the banjo bolt, with copper spacers, so that the flats would let the MC get *almost* parallel to the others. Go with the 75s on the MK5.

If just doing the clutch, then no issue there. I believe I ordered from Pegasus Auto Racing along with a bunch of AN hardware. The AN hardware will make the MC price seem like peanuts.

[rickshank]

Question for folks on wiring/grommets. The ProFlo4 ( similar to Sniper) uses metripack 150/ that are 20 pin, so just over 2” wide at widest. I assume this should be mounted inside the dash/firewall area, which means a pretty big hole in the upper trans tunnel where I’ve run the other harnesses with 1.5 holes. I’d need to find a grommet that big or use a 3” (slightly bigger OD) split grommet.

Another option is depinning. I know how to do it, I have the tool, but that’s 40 pins to not break on way out and back in. 9 or so more if I do the o2 sensor as well. That gets the holes to a few 1” holes.

Unless I’m missing something?

Any pics of an inside Sniper or ProFlo4 mount? I was thinking of Riv Nuts to the firewall on the interior side.

[rickshank]

Doing some more research on this, the Sniper is more self contained and sits near the intake; where the PF4 sits remotely.

I’ll measure a bit more on the trans tunnel cover and see if I can get away with the hole and big split grommet. Anyone have a handy pic of what’s visible on that panel from normal view?

[gbranham]

224087224088224089

[rickshank]

Sweet! Thank you! I wasn’t planning on a firewall forward mod to mine, but mounting there makes sense to me. I just need to insulate it first.

I may still go down through the tunnel for routing. After second thought ( or 14th thought), the split grommet would get covered by carpet anyways.

[gbranham]

I'm using the kit firewall, not the firewall forward setup. I stuck a piece of foam pipe insulation in the oval firewall hole. It is hidden when the body is on the chassis.

[rickshank]

And that’s a standard hole in the MK4? MK5 is a straight solid piece.

[gbranham]

Yep, standard hole in the MkIV firewall.

Greg

[Pete&Scott]

I bought the 76 series based on Jeff Kliener's post in Edwardb build thread.


Pete&Scott, on related question did you decide to use the Tilton 75 or 76? Rick mentions using "non-standard" Tiltons, so maybe he can comment on that also.
I'm working on a MK5 also, and some of the Tiltons fit better than others, mostly for hyd clutch for me as Wilwood is giving me issues.
Thanks, Ralph

[rickshank]

Without lowering the pedal assembly the distance of a banjo bolt head, the clearance issue I mention exists on the 76 series in a MKV. It would be a bit tricky to lower it the way it mounts both above/below tabs, but it can be done.

[Pete&Scott]

I did go with just the clutch for now. Those banjo fittings and bolts are pricey.



I used Tilton 76s - 3/4 and 13/16 to match the Wilwoods. Would I do that again? No. I'd go with the 75s. The banjo nut on top of the inward MC interferes with the chassis tubes. I literally tightened the banjo bolt, with copper spacers, so that the flats would let the MC get *almost* parallel to the others. Go with the 75s on the MK5.

If just doing the clutch, then no issue there. I believe I ordered from Pegasus Auto Racing along with a bunch of AN hardware. The AN hardware will make the MC price seem like peanuts.

[rickshank]

There's some order to this disorder. I'm crossing the hump on the wiring and it's clicking in my head now. I think :)

Rear harness finished up and installed for good, I hope. Front harness cleaned up and outside of mounting, it's there. Found a path forward on the big connectors for the Edelbrock Pro Flo4. Rather than de-pin 2 20pin Metripack and a 9 pin Metripack, I'm using a split grommet that allows a bigger hole. I do need to trim the grommet for the wire opening. I think I'm going to use a dremel (and prepare for the mess).

Next up - firewall work. I had the Edelbrock relay+fuse where it fit, but I think I need that area of the firewall/dash for an A/C air hose. so I cut and labeled each of those 7 wires and crimped extensions on. I'll crimp back in place after I mount the relay and fuse. Then I need to connect the EFI stuff up - it ties to the chassis harness for fan and power only at this point. And I need to tie the inertia switch into the Edelbrock fuel pump relay. I thought it would just go in line for the pump so I mounted it out back, but the wires are like 18-20 gauge and not appropriate for a fuel pump wire.

I'm going to be calling people sooner rather than later for motor install day.
224536224537224538

[Highplainsdakota]

Great Progress,

I have some thoughts since I'm just a bit ahead of you with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4. I mounted my ECU on the top of the passenger foot box with the main power relay and fuse. I ended up purchasing the edelbrock fuel relay add on with fuse but you could probably build it yourself. I put my inertia switch behind the dash, but I used the signal wire for the fuel relay instead of the actual power wire to the fuel pump. That takes care of your wire size issue but the relay would go behind the dash or somewhere near that.

I put a toggle switch behind my dash where I could reach that opened the circuit to the intertia switch and fuel relay trigger so I could crank the engine without pumping the gas. I believe this will come in handy later.

You need to connect the Orange EFI wire to the ECU power, and the fan trigger also. The Tach wire may also be used depending on your tach. Good luck!

[rickshank]

I have the Edelbrock FP relay as part of my kit. I'm using the RF Fan relay triggered by the Edelbrock. You can see my unit mounted on the firewall. The relay will go to the right of that, I have it sitting on the cockpit floor with longer wire leads crimped on. Inertia switch - exactly what I'm planning. Factory cars have inertia switches (maybe this is a Foxbody mustang switch), they shouldn't trip except for bad stuff happening (tm).

Interesting thought on switch. I think what you'd want is to be able to disconnect the coil/tach to the ECU. That will keep the injectors from firing, as you may not need to pump if you already have a pressurized fuel system.

I didn't go for the passenger footwell as I still have HVAC to install, and I believe it goes there.

Much appreciated on your setup - seems the ProFlo4 is certainly not as commonplace as the Sniper. Thanks!

[gbranham]

Looking good! You'll love that ProFlo4.

Greg

[rickshank]

Anyone ever had to remove a terminal from the RF fuse panel to fix it? I see a dangling Horn wire (brown) and I think it came out of the terminal.


First, not sure how to remove the terminal, then if I can recrimp it or where to source another one.


----

Edit - pretty straightforward. Drop down fuel panel, remove the white clip that retains the wires against the relay socket. Then use a small blade screwdriver in the "open slot" on the relay side to release the tab. I was able to open the crimp just a tiny fit, and insert the wire in, flattened not twisted. Crimped again, and added a little solder for good measure.

[rickshank]

Forward progress. These are bigger steps than they look, I think

-- All of the wires going down "out" of the car are in place. I do need to pull the fuel pump wires back from the right-most harness and make them connect inside the car over to the rear harness, but it's a clear path. Wrapped those harnesses in Tesa high-temp tape.

-- Mounted fuel pump relay / fuse / inertia switch to the firewall.

-- I noticed a wire had come off the horn relay base on the fuse panel. Had to figure out how to de-pin that after removing the fuse panel, or at least dropping it down. Re-crimped and added some solder.

Next up - fix fuel pump wiring/add a connector there. Add a cable retainer (zip tie with screw mount to a nut-seat on firewall) for the ECU wiring, as it's a hefty bundle. Sort out the power from the car to what circuit - ECU , ECU crank (I think), heated seats, wiper, heater, USB/12v.

Are there 12v USB ports that you'd put in a car these days that aren't random Amazon garbage? If not, I'll just do a cigarette lighter port and use a USB adapter that I can swap.

Anything else I might want power for?

[Pete&Scott]

Rick: Starting work on my dash. I notice you have red, green, and blue indicator lights. My kit just came with one green light. Wondering what the green light is for, and if I should have received the red and blue ones.

Thanks.

Pete


Dash moving forward. I’ll let the glue dry until tomorrow (3M 90)

Wire harnesses are roughly laid out. I’ll probably drill the console front top tomorrow and then start connecting wires. Probably best to start with the dash wiring and work from there.

223747

[rickshank]

They were in a separate package/box I think. Regardless, you need 0 of them with the Vintage gauges - indicators are built into the speedo. I installed them for future use. Right now, I'm just putting a connector out back for the 3 of them for future me.

[Pete&Scott]

Rick: I used this USB port on my motorcycle. It has survived wind, rain, and a lot of vibration over the past 5 years. I may use it in my build

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP0609EA-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Terminal/dp/B075V7DPPV?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

But I like the looks of this one for a car so will probably give it a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Replacement-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B0CTD84F3P?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

Pete


Forward progress. These are bigger steps than they look, I think

-- All of the wires going down "out" of the car are in place. I do need to pull the fuel pump wires back from the right-most harness and make them connect inside the car over to the rear harness, but it's a clear path. Wrapped those harnesses in Tesa high-temp tape.

-- Mounted fuel pump relay / fuse / inertia switch to the firewall.

-- I noticed a wire had come off the horn relay base on the fuse panel. Had to figure out how to de-pin that after removing the fuse panel, or at least dropping it down. Re-crimped and added some solder.

Next up - fix fuel pump wiring/add a connector there. Add a cable retainer (zip tie with screw mount to a nut-seat on firewall) for the ECU wiring, as it's a hefty bundle. Sort out the power from the car to what circuit - ECU , ECU crank (I think), heated seats, wiper, heater, USB/12v.

Are there 12v USB ports that you'd put in a car these days that aren't random Amazon garbage? If not, I'll just do a cigarette lighter port and use a USB adapter that I can swap.

Anything else I might want power for?

[PMD24]

Hey Rick, can you share some details (and photos?) on what you learned on getting that horn connector out of the fuse panel? I've wondered about that as I'm contemplating some changes at the fuse panel. I've also noticed on mine, that there's an unused connection point on the ACC bus of the panel. I was wondering how one goes about crimping a wire into that. Any insight on that?

Thanks,

Pat

[rickshank]

It's snowing a bit here (10-16" today), so not sure how much shop time I'll get.

The relay terminals have a white clip on the side of the fuel panel that retains them, then you use a small screwdriver to release the tab from the relay side.

For the ACC position, is there a terminal in there? If so, it needs released, then you can add a wire to it. If it's like the relay terminal, it's pretty small - a normal 6" pair of needle nose pliers is too big. Bend the release tab back out if after crimping the wire and re-installing.

[2nd2none]

Rick: Starting work on my dash. I notice you have red, green, and blue indicator lights. My kit just came with one green light. Wondering what the green light is for, and if I should have received the red and blue ones.

Thanks.

Pete

To go with what Rick mentioned, I received 2 green indicator lights (box 4 with Mk5 dash electrical parts and box 27 with the elec sys comp parts). Received 1 each of the blue and red indicator lights that were also in box 4 with the Mk5 dash electrical parts. No current plans to use any of them since I also have the Speedhut vintage gauges.

[Pete&Scott]

Thanks. I found the other lights. I went with the Autometer Ultra Lite 7 Gauge set, not sure if those gauges include indicator lights, so I will install at least the 3 lights, not sure what the extra green one is for.


To go with what Rick mentioned, I received 2 green indicator lights (box 4 with Mk5 dash electrical parts and box 27 with the elec sys comp parts). Received 1 each of the blue and red indicator lights that were also in box 4 with the Mk5 dash electrical parts. No current plans to use any of them since I also have the Speedhut vintage gauges.

[rickshank]

Thanks. I found the other lights. I went with the Autometer Ultra Lite 7 Gauge set, not sure if those gauges include indicator lights, so I will install at least the 3 lights, not sure what the extra green one is for.

I think the various lights are just a legacy item from the past. Turn signals / high beams / etc.

On Autometer's website, I don't see any Ultra-lite speedos that incorporate turn signal indicators. Your high beam switch should have a light integrated, but you could use the 3rd indicator for that if you want a non-LED look/feel (Ultra-lites are probably non-LED, as are these indicators).

[rickshank]

Ok, documenting this for me and future MKV builders.

Available power for your EFI / USB / seat heaters / etc:

Ignition on power:
EFI/Coil - 15A, Orange, available in firewall area
Choke - 10A, Tan, available in sending unit harness
Accessory on power:
Wiper - 10A, Purple, available in Radio/Heater/Wiper bundle from main harness
Heater - 20A, Brown, available in Radio/Heater/Wiper bundle from main harness
Gauge feed - 10A (shared with radio) - Brown, available in Dash Harness
Radio Power - 10A (shared with gauge feed) - Brown, available in Radio/Heater/Wiper bundle from main harness
Always on power:
Radio memory - 15A (shared with headlight & courtesy light) - Red, available in Radio/Heater/Wiper bundle from main harness
Courtesy light - 15A (shared with headlight & radio mem) - Red, separate bundle in firewall. Note - ground is connected to Headlight switch)

Here's what I need on mine so far:
Wiper - use standard circuit
Heater/AC - use standard circuit
Seat heaters (Corbeau, recommended 6A/seat) - EFI/Coil (sharing trigger wire for EFI below)
USB power - Choke. 10A/120W is plenty for USB.


Then for Edelbrock ProFlo -
Tach output - Brown/White - connect to purple Coil/Tach wire on Dash Harness
Fan #1 output (ground trigger) Yellow - Dk Green on Fuse Panel for FanThermoSW
12V switched power - Pink Black - (only for trigger relay) - EFI/Coil




For USB power, I'm going to use this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B001U4ZZPK , just need to figure out where I should mount it. Behind the seat? Center console? I really don't want it on the dash. Then the usb adapter plugs into that and I'm a bit more future-proofed / less tied to technology leaving it behind or a USB port going bad / weather. These are rated pretty good for boats.

Turns out it's good I wrote this out and traced out the wire diagrams. I thought the relay on the Edelbrock was an optional FP relay. It's a main relay, and I have the FP wired in to a 10A max circuit where the thing will draw more like 15. I need to get connect back into the RF Fuse Panel for that relay.

[rickshank]

Drivetrain is in! Big thanks to my buddy and my dad stopping out to get it done.

It was mostly ready to go when they came out, but three people is the right number. You could do it with less if you've done it before, you'll just increase the amount of time. One on the engine lift, one up front for the engine mounts/damage control and someone laying on my dirty floor dealing with the transmission tail.

The drivetrain itself was just under an hour. Then we installed the headers loosely as I'm waiting for upgraded Stage8 locking fasteners that are in a UPS delivery delay.

Couple issues - the transmission mount just touches the casting of the transmission case. It's probably fine, but there isn't any adjustment in the location to make this any better. I will very likely pull that back out tonight/tomorrow, clearance it slightly, and reinstall.

Second issue - power steering reservoir inlet wants to occupy the same space as the steering shaft. 'm guessing this setup works fine in a MK4 car but we need to do something different for a MKV. I'll call Forte tomorrow.

Huge step and it's really looking like a car now. I need to grab a seat and steering wheel to make some vroom vroom noises.

302->347ci stroker, Tremec TKX 5 speed with forward shift conversion.

Quick/dirty 2 minute timelapse - https://youtu.be/nLKIFOkxeec

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55073083893_48cea7b3d0.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rUBX8c)Drivetrain installed (https://flic.kr/p/2rUBX8c) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55071988662_4d7e05b1d1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rUwkxU)Engine in (https://flic.kr/p/2rUwkxU) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55073251755_88e93cd2b3.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rUCP2n)Power steering reservoir clearance (https://flic.kr/p/2rUCP2n) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

​​​​​​​https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55073086453_4075a2f7c1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rUBXTk)Transmission mount clearance (https://flic.kr/p/2rUBXTk) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[rponfick]

Rick, same issue as you on the tranny mount. My tranny would not go down all the way due to tranny mount impacting the rear of the tranny aluminum. Took the mount out a few times and trimmed impacted area, loosened motor mounts to try to move forward a bit, and finally got it to fit in. I called FFR and they said it should fit and had no inquiries. Looks like they need to trim their mount some to rectify this issue.
Ralph

[rickshank]

Ralph, same combo - 302/347 + TKX? I'll let them know next time I call in. I just clearanced the mounting plate a bit, sandblasted it, and waiting for it to come out of the powder coat oven.

[rickshank]

Slower progress today, but forward.

Mount fixed. Trimmed about 1/4" and a few inches wide to be 100% sure there won't be contact to the TKX casting. When I trimmed just the flashing (1/4" or so wide), I got some additional contact when I reinstalled it. So I did some more.

Starter installed. Also missed the engine ground strap to the engine side of the mount. That was a wild goose chase to fix, when I should have just notched the ground wire into a fork terminal. Oh well.

P/S reservoir issue - waiting to hear back from Breeze for the Jones Racing baffled reservoir. It's a direct mount to the pump, but has a second inlet option that will clear the steering shaft.

Back to wiring stuff tomorrow, getting closer there.

Things I need to sort out:
P/S - GM Type 2 pump (1200 psi from what I see) to Ford rack (800 psi) - I have some links for the some pressure reducer options, but need to research a bit more.
A/C - looks like I need to run a wire for the fan relay to share the ground trigger. The compressor (Black wire) on the 302/347 compressor gets triggered by the Trinary switch, which is installed on the drier on the right side of the engine bay (per Gen3 coupe instructions). That ground trigger needs to come from there back to the fuse panel.
Gauge sensors - WT/OP. I need to check Rickster's thread to see where he ended up with these.
Vacuum line for booster - same - Check Rickster's thread.
Throttle cable - not sure if the FF cable is what I want here or what with the ProFlo4. May just call Summit Racing and see what they recommend.

225063225064225063225064

[Mike.Bray]

I have the GM type II pump and used this to reduce the pressure. https://cvfracing.com/saginaw-p-series-pressure-reducing-valve-800-psi/

Here's another option if you want adjustability. https://classicperform.com/shop/90400

For the throttle cable scrap the FFR one and get the best, Lokar.

[RobHartley]

I have a BP 347, and TKX dressed by Mike Forte as well. I guess I might as well trim mine before I install it. Thanks for this guys

[rickshank]

I have a BP 347, and TKX dressed by Mike Forte as well. I guess I might as well trim mine before I install it. Thanks for this guys

I grabbed the Breeze reservoir. Should have it in a few days and I'll post a picture once it's on.

[RobHartley]

I grabbed the Breeze reservoir. Should have it in a few days and I'll post a picture once it's on.
My reservoir from Forte has two returns, one on the side and one on the bottom similar to the Breeze reservoir (pn 70659), does yours not? I am wondering about using the bottom based on your picture of the closeness to the steering shaft. Will also wait to see it with the Breeze reservoir. Thanks for this!
225130

[rickshank]

That is what I'm buying basically. Jones Racing, but Breeze stocks it (unlike most not in stock). I have a plastic reservoir and it won't work.

[Jim Doak]

Following your build. Curious to see your final power steering pump setup.

I'm running a Mustang pump on my current build; if it's too sensitive I may do something similar to your setup. I ran a KRC pump on my first build and it worked great. It used a flow control orifice on the outlet allowing me to choose the appropriate sized fitting to suit my assist preference.

BTW, the YouTube timelapse was great.

[rickshank]

Thanks! I ordered these parts:
https://proshop.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-TC-1000HT36
https://proshop.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-XTCB-40PF4L
$215 after tax to my door with my ProShop account.

Coming out of TX, not OH this time to PA with some snow arriving tomorrow, so hopefully by Monday or so.

[Pete&Scott]

Called Summit to find out about the Pro Shop account and was told you have to submit a copy of your Racer's License to set up a Pro Shop Account. I don't have a racer's license, so no Summit deals for me!!!!


Thanks! I ordered these parts:
https://proshop.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-TC-1000HT36
https://proshop.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-XTCB-40PF4L
$215 after tax to my door with my ProShop account.

Coming out of TX, not OH this time to PA with some snow arriving tomorrow, so hopefully by Monday or so.

[rickshank]

For what I've spent on amateur motorsports, it's cheaper not to be eligible for their Pro Shop :D

[PMD24]

I installed those same Lokar parts yesterday. Really pleased with the quality, ease of installation, and the overall look. Also, well designed for future adjustments, if needed.

[Pete&Scott]

Agree. My son Scott was an amateur enduro motorcycle racer. We kept Honda and Rocky Mountain MC/ATV in business!!!

On your Lokar order. Do you have a Sniper 1 or 2. I just ordered those same parts. I have a Sniper 2 and Summit, and Lokar recommended Lokar Throttle Cable Brackets TCB-40HS2


For what I've spent on amateur motorsports, it's cheaper not to be eligible for their Pro Shop :D

[rickshank]

I have an Edelbrock ProFlo4. So different bracket/part.

[rickshank]

​Clicking ahead, starting the jobby-job on Monday so things will be slowing down but still pushing forward to get the engine started sooner rather than later.

Since the last update, wiring necessary for the startup is done. Fuel pump, brake/clutch pedal switches, even trans reverse light. Front/rear harnesses at least attached enough to know where stuff goes. Front splash guards in front of wheels are installed, which had to play nice with the front harness routing.

Big step today was brakes. "Bench bleeding" the MCs while installed in the car, then bleeding the brakes out to the calipers. There were plenty of smaller leaks. 6? 2 of which were caliper banjo bolts finger tight. The others just took a mild ugga (no dugga) to snug up and the leaks went away. Raised the reservoirs to make sure we were getting good intake, but the real key for bench bleeding in the car was to make sure the rubber bleed line was submerged in brake fluid so it wouldn't suck air back. I'd say the brakes are 95% bled, I'll bleed them again before driving after the agitated air bubbles have time to come together. This worked fine for bench bleeding - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHR84X56?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I need to adjust the balance bar for brake bias, there are some guidelines on that. I figured I'd let the brake sit a day, then do a couple strong pushed on it tomorrow to make sure we're still air tight.

No clutch yet, I want to dry fit the line first, then I'll use the clutch line to bench bleed that vs using a different fitting.

Driveshaft - there is an aluminum flange adapter that goes into the rear end side, the hardware source must have changed and the socket caps didn't fit down in like they were supposed to. My lathe made that a very uneventful process - .020" off, just the rounded out knurling. Pic below.

The 10.5" driveshaft didn't it. Turns out I have a Coyote/TKX driveshaft. I need the shorter one 8 3/8. Talked to FF, they're shipping one out and I'll send this one back. I got it slid on the transmission after removing the trans mount and pulling the trans over a bit, only to find out it didn't fit. Also shared my adapter bolt info and about the notching needed for the trans mount.

I think these are the key items before engine startup. Some aren't necessarily holding up the startup, but things that have been on the list that need done:

Brake balance bar adjustment
Headers
- Bolts
- Gasket
Drive shaft
Front Sway bar - shorten
Rear e-brake - attach with SS zip tie
Inside rear cockpit panels / trunk panels
Engine fuel
Oil pressure and water temp sensors
Vacuum lines
Power steering
Radiator


Heat-A/C after startup.
​



​225246225247

[rickster991]

My power steering is too soft at high speeds. I’m going to add a Heidt’s valve to see if that helps.

[Mike.Bray]

My power steering is too soft at high speeds. I’m going to add a Heidt’s valve to see if that helps.

Or try an adjustable valve like this. https://classicperform.com/shop/90400

[rickshank]

And back to power steering. I bought the Breeze/Jones reservoir. Installed it, turns out it's bigger than the plastic one, so it intrudes on the steering shaft even more.

What's my next option? I'm guessing a pump change, which may require different accessory brackets?

It's a BP 347 (dressed/sold by Forte) in a MK5 with power steering, seems like this should be more straightforward.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55108236469_d92e359356.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rXJ7L6)IMG_1956 (https://flic.kr/p/2rXJ7L6) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55107092217_5c2628dcaf.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rXCfBB)IMG_1957 (https://flic.kr/p/2rXCfBB) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[Mike.Bray]

You can use a remote reservoir.

225848

225849

[gbranham]

Yep, remote reservoir.

225851

[rickshank]

How do I connect into the push-in inlet of the pump?

Anyone want a Jones/Breeze reservoir or plastic one? I've got a pile of unneeded stuff already.

[Mike.Bray]

I'm using this Type II pump with screw in fittings. https://cvfracing.com/power-steering/power-steering-pumps/

What pump do you have?

[rickshank]

Here's all I know about the pump (invoice) - it's a slip fit with o-ring on the inlet. Guess that puts me at over $700 into this part.

225852

[rickshank]

This one specifically? https://cvfracing.com/gm-type-ii-power-steering-pump/

[RobHartley]

And back to power steering. I bought the Breeze/Jones reservoir. Installed it, turns out it's bigger than the plastic one, so it intrudes on the steering shaft even more.

What's my next option? I'm guessing a pump change, which may require different accessory brackets?

It's a BP 347 (dressed/sold by Forte) in a MK5 with power steering, seems like this should be more straightforward.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55108236469_d92e359356.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rXJ7L6)IMG_1956 (https://flic.kr/p/2rXJ7L6) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55107092217_5c2628dcaf.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2rXCfBB)IMG_1957 (https://flic.kr/p/2rXCfBB) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr
Well this is perplexing... I'm a ways off from dropping my engine in but looking at this I am a little concerned as that reservoir looks very similar to the one Mike Forte included on mine...

[rickshank]

Depending on the reservoir - the plastic one will allow you to get the engine in, the Jones reservoir will obviously not unless the steering shaft is removed.

[MardellCheney]

Drivetrain is in! Big thanks to my buddy and my dad stopping out to get it done.

It was mostly ready to go when they came out, but three people is the right number. You could do it with less if you've done it before, you'll just increase the amount of time. One on the engine lift, one up front for the engine mounts/damage control and someone laying on my dirty floor dealing with the transmission tail.

The drivetrain itself was just under an hour. Then we installed the headers loosely as I'm waiting for upgraded Stage8 locking fasteners that are in a UPS delivery delay.

Couple issues - the transmission mount just touches the casting of the transmission case. It's probably fine, but there isn't any adjustment in the location to make this any better. I will very likely pull that back out tonight/tomorrow, clearance it slightly, and reinstall.

Second issue - power steering reservoir inlet wants to occupy the same space as the steering shaft. 'm guessing this setup works fine in a MK4 car but we need to do something different for a MKV. I'll call Forte tomorrow.

Huge step and it's really looking like a car now. I need to grab a seat and steering wheel to make some vroom vroom noises.

302->347ci stroker, Tremec TKX 5 speed with forward shift conversion.


Can you provide a picture of Transmission area. I would like to see how the forward shift position looks in the mk5 with an SBF engine. I’m trying to decide if I want the forward position or just the 180 flip position.
Great build thread
Thanks.

[rponfick]

Can you provide a picture of Transmission area. I would like to see how the forward shift position looks in the mk5 with an SBF engine. I’m trying to decide if I want the forward position or just the 180 flip position.
Great build thread
Thanks.

something I just learned, the shifter and brake chrome trim rings will not fit in the rear shifter position. If you have electric brakes, no problem.
Just sharing. Ralph

[MardellCheney]

something I just learned, the shifter and brake chrome trim rings will not fit in the rear shifter position. If you have electric brakes, no problem.
Just sharing. Ralph

Just the rear most position, or the 180 degree flipped position also?

[rickshank]

Can you provide a picture of Transmission area. I would like to see how the forward shift position looks in the mk5 with an SBF engine. I’m trying to decide if I want the forward position or just the 180 flip position.
Great build thread
Thanks.

Here you go.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55168690111_511fd4cfd4.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2s44Xwg)Forward shift Tremec TKX (https://flic.kr/p/2s44Xwg) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

[MardellCheney]

Here you go.


Thank you, that is very helpful.

[rponfick]

Here you go.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55168690111_511fd4cfd4.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2s44Xwg)Forward shift Tremec TKX (https://flic.kr/p/2s44Xwg) by Rick Shank (https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788209@N07/), on Flickr

Isn't this called the mid-shift position? Not just turning the stock shifter plate around 180 degrees? I think you need extra parts for this position?
Ralph