Aluminum panels.

[rickyracer]

I was wondering what you guys are using to coat the aluminum panels that will be seen in the engine bay including "F "panels. Is painting an option or do they have to be powdercoated ? I don't object to the black panels with silver rivets. I actually like that look.I know some of you are installing heat mat on the footboxes so what is your choice in heat mats. Thanks in advance. Pictures would help.

[cv2065]

Powder coating and Killmat or Thermo tech.

[BUDFIVE]

I like the brushed aluminum look in the engine bay so I scuffed them in one direction and applied Sharkshide on the engine side.. And I have seen others’ cars both painted and powder coated. So, I would say to build the look you want.

[Grubester]

I like the aluminum look in the engine bay also. What about in the wheel wells behind the wheels..? Aluminum, also? Maybe anodized or Sharkhide again?

[edwardb]

Just depends on the look you want. The 6061 aluminum used is corrosion resistant, so coating isn't mandatory. Leaving it bare is an option that many use. It will oxidize to a light grey color and stay that way for years. Sharkhide, mentioned already, will keep it a more shiny silver. If you do coat it, powder coating is the most common. Lots of colors to choose from and it's relatively durable and holds up to underhood temps, most chemicals, etc. Anodizing, like Factory Five did on the 30th Anniversary cars, is another choice. Durable but more expensive. Painting is an option as well, although those that do it say it's more work than they expected and in general probably not as durable as powder coat.

As for heat insulation, I've never been a fan of putting materials on the outside of the footboxes. I like the clean and easy to care for look of the aluminum however you treat it. I've posted this dozens or times -- through multiple builds, I've found that properly applied insulation materials on the inside of the cockpit along with the carpet and completely sealed (very important, often overlooked) heat is not any issue in any car I've built. There are many different stick-on or spray-on products, all seem to do the job. Although I stick with name brand purpose made automotive products. For an open top car, like the Roadster, outside conditions will affect you most, e.g. the sun, wind, temperature, etc.

[PMD24]

In another thread I offered some technical thoughts on heat transfer, based on many years of design work and field experience.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?50895-Heat-amp-Sound-Mat-Installation&p=576082#post576082



Pat

[Jim1855]

I'm hitting with ScotchBrite and then auto wax. The wax provides just enough sealant to slow corrosion and makes the panels nicer to handle. Real easy to recoat and maintains the brushed finish look. I do the same on my cast iron table saw, works well. Thanks Gramps!.
Jim

[Wingman06]

I powder coated mine black. If I did it again I would do a gunmetal gray. The black powder coat against the black frame makes things harder to see especially working "under" something, like in the footbox or under the car. The fact that my eyes are 62 years old MAY be a contributing factor but either way I like the powder coat, but if I did it all again it would not be black.

[BUDFIVE]

I like the aluminum look in the engine bay also. What about in the wheel wells behind the wheels..? Aluminum, also? Maybe anodized or Sharkhide again?
For the other side of aluminum in the wheel wells (f-panels, splash guards, rear bulkhead) etc I sprayed Raptor which I also used on the body underside.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

You can't see much body metal with a Coyote so I used truck bed liner in black with silver rivets. Heat management is Thermo Tec. Not a show place or historically correct just functional.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202022&d=1721414949

[rickyracer]

Thanks for all of the great information and details. This forum rocks once again !

[Mike.Bray]

I clear anodized mine. Since the panels are 6061 they will bright dip well.

https://www.pioneermetal.com/our-processes/anodizing/

[rponfick]

I have used Rustoleum Hammered paint on a couple and was very pleased.
Ralph

[gbranham]

Powdercoated mine.

217602217603217604

[rickyracer]

That powder coating looks great

[Derald Rice]

Back in 2002, I built MK2 3319, and I simply cleaned the panels and installed them with no
coating.....At that time PC , anodized, sharkhide, had not been thought of to any great extent
and it was very common to leave the panels bare.

Then over the years, I added the drop trunk and also did an engine swap so the panels were
very easy to access for a good cleaning.... WD40 and a green 3m pad and they were as new
and and the new panels blended with all of the original panels perfectly.....Not a problem of any kind.

I have no regrets, and I will do the same on the new car...

Original Cobra panels are all bare aluminum.


EDIT: If your panels are coated, and some day down the road you need to replace a panel,
will it match the other panels ??

[Pizzman76]

I was wondering what you guys are using to coat the aluminum panels that will be seen in the engine bay including "F "panels. Is painting an option or do they have to be powdercoated ? I don't object to the black panels with silver rivets. I actually like that look.I know some of you are installing heat mat on the footboxes so what is your choice in heat mats. Thanks in advance. Pictures would help.

As I'm sure you will see in this thread, you have many different options, and none are wrong with the aluminum panels in my opinion. Some people love to dive deep in the details on their respective build to make a show quality vehicle, and some just want a good-looking hand-built cruiser.

I chose to paint all the panels around the powertrain and exhaust in graphite black Cerakote for heat resistance, and all the panels aft of the foot boxes in flat black to match the body structure's powercoating. Frankly, all painting from the footboxes back is more about my OCD, making sure I don't have shiny surfaces exposed in areas where the carpet seams come together.

Powerdercoating is a path many choose, and is another great option for a rugged coating that will stand up to abuse, but like painting is not a necessary coating for aluminum and more about color continuity.

[rickyracer]

Thanks guys. Really appreciate all of your detailed responses. At this point I am leaning towards the natural un coated look. For those who have used the 3m method of cleaning does it leave streaks or a brushed look ?

[Derald Rice]

Thanks guys. Really appreciate all of your detailed responses. At this point I am leaning towards the natural un coated look. For those who have used the 3m method of cleaning does it leave streaks or a brushed look ?

Just don't try to get too aggressive, and towel it dry while it is still wet.

[2nd2none]

I have used Rustoleum Hammered paint on a couple and was very pleased.
Ralph

I like that idea. Have used that paint in the past for other projects. Looks good and easy to touch up panels if needed

[Jeff Kleiner]

On cars that I've built for customers a couple of them got powder coated but most stayed raw. I'm painting the visible panels on my Mk5 body color. Way back when I built my Mk3 I gave the panels a brushed finish and then cleared them.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_0417.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_0420.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_0423.jpg

I've shared the recipe here before but here it is again:
After drilling and fitting clean the panels with acetone to take off the surface oxidation and ink marking. Use a medium grit (green or gray) scotchbrite pad, and make long straight strokes to get a consistent "brushed" grain. I've heard of some guys doing this wet or with WD40 but I preferred the results by just doing it dry. Next clean them again with acetone and when you aren't getting any more black on your rag follow up with lacquer thinner and blow them dry. I went with 2-4 coats of rattle can "crystal clear" from Rustoleum. Finally bake it on. For pieces small enough to fit I put them in the oven at 250 for 20 minutes or so (did I mention my wife was out of town when I did this ;)). For panels that were too large I focused a double 500 watt halogen light stand on them for an hour or so. The finish wound up hard and after 17 years proved to be durable and unaffected by engine compartment heat. A wipedown with detail spray and a rag about once a year removed dust and road grime would make them look just like they did on day one.

Cheers,
Jeff

[rickyracer]

Thank you for the very detailed response Jeff. I will give that a try. Now to think of a place to send the wife on baking day !!

[Cobradavid]

For the visible panels, I used a 3M wheel to make a random scuff pattern on the panels and then sprayed rattle-can clear coat over that.

Here's the engine bay - the camera flash makes the swirl pattern look more dramatic than it really is.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16402&d=1364603634

For the wheel well liners, I sprayed rattle can black bedliner on them.

16 years later, it's all still holding up well.

David