Ride Height & Alignment (for the one millionth time)

[mlewis]

Hi All,

I know this is a common post (part of my problem when searching).

I am ready to get my build on the road and want to dial in (for real) my heights and alignment.

Here’s the stats:

MK4 with PS and IRS. I have the red Koni’s with fully adjustable upper control arms. I have a coyote 5.0 if that matters.

Anyone with a consolidated list of height and alignment settings would be greatly appreciated.

PS, sorry for yet another post on this …

[egchewy79]

for PS, 7-8* caster, -0.5* camber, and 1/32-1/16" toe in I believe.
Most have ride height at 4" and 4.5" in front and back respectively.
I used blocks of 2x4 cut to size and slid these under the front and rear 4" tubes. I found this easier than trying to use a tape measure in this area.

[JeffP]

If you're doing it yourself, this thing works pretty great - beats a bunch of strings. You can download the App and use it without the tray, but the tray just helps out. Works with pretty much any mobile device, the newer the more accurate. Not cheap, but about the same as an alignment it'll pay for itself.
https://gyraline.com/products/the-case

[mlewis]

Thanks guys.

I have been contemplating getting a DIY tool option at least for the rough in (less the string).

Anyone have a preferred tool used to help with all the adjustments?

[gbranham]

for PS, 7-8* caster, -0.5* camber, and 1/32-1/16" toe in I believe.
Most have ride height at 4" and 4.5" in front and back respectively.
I used blocks of 2x4 cut to size and slid these under the front and rear 4" tubes. I found this easier than trying to use a tape measure in this area..

These are the specs I used for my MkIV IRS PS build, as well. And for measuring ride height, I got the tool made for that on Amazon. Works great!

https://a.co/d/33NGRw4

[CraigS]

I like these from Longacre.
https://longacreracing.com/products/aluminum-toe-plates-with-magnets-standard-style?_pos=24&_fid=d689fffd6&_ss=c
https://longacreracing.com/products/castercambergaugecaseonly-noadapter?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=06aaba36e&pr_rec_pid=7379074220091&pr_ref_pid=7379074252859&pr_seq=uniform
This has a 1/4" coarse thread hole in the end so I made my own wheel adapter from plywood.

[Ducky2009]

After you set your ride height, I'd suggest four corner balancing.

[CraigS]

Corner balancing is a great tool, or you can just rely on FFR having welded the frame together properly. Then adjust the coil over spring seats so there are the same # of threads exposed on the left and right.
217290
Front and rear will most likely be different but L and R should be =.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

4"X4.5" will get you over most all speed bumps without bottoming out. Have some wood blocks cut to size. On new cars the initial setting will sag after some use so be prepared to do it again. After that i check it at least once a year.

[JMD]

I'm currently using 4 1/4" front and 4 3/4" rear. Been driving it a while with no issues except one road had a heave right in the middle with low ruts on either side where the wheels run. I didn't see until too late and scraped the front 4" frame cross member while cruising at 50 mph. It scraped pretty hard. Fortunately my oil pan sits about 3/4" higher than the frame and didn't get hit. If it had, that could have been a very bad day. But no real damage done. Unless you're going to be on a race track I would say this is about as low as you want to go for real world driving.

[Presdough]

I did the same thing and ripped the parking brake cables off.

[mlewis]

Thanks all

[mlewis]

Hi all,

Resurfacing my original thread. Based on your input I was able to rough-in ride hight and front aligment.

I have an appoint tomorrow for a professional alignment shop (4-wheel).

I do have IRS so wanted to confirm the aligment of the rear as well. Here's what I got from other threads:

Rear
0.5 degree negative camber
1/8" (.28 degree) total toe in

Thanks in advance (as always :))