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View Full Version : Remflex Gasket and ARP Stud Questions



PMD24
07-19-2025, 11:59 AM
Getting things prepped for test fitting Gass-N headers to Blueprint 347 (blueprint head) and hoping for confirmation on some part selections. I've chosen the Remflex 3035 gasket, ARP 100-1404 black oxide studs, and Dorman 3/8 brass nuts.

The studs are 1.67 long, thread depth is ~0.75, header flange is ~0.375. That leaves 0.55 for the nut. The nut is 0.56. That results in the std thread essentially flush with the nut.

Feedback on any/all of the above would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Pat

cv2065
07-19-2025, 12:10 PM
Verify your bolt head spacing on the head and select the correct Remflex gasket. The one you have listed is for 3" BH spacing. I think the studs you have are correct as those are the ones I used. I used some Nord-loc washers with mine instead of the ARP washers and they haven't come loose in a couple of heat cycles.

Mike.Bray
07-19-2025, 12:20 PM
I used Remflex 3083 gaskets and ARP 100-1404 with the ARP 12 point nuts. No issues so far but as mentioned check your bolt spacing.

PMD24
07-19-2025, 01:02 PM
Verify your bolt head spacing on the head and select the correct Remflex gasket. The one you have listed is for 3" BH spacing. I think the studs you have are correct as those are the ones I used. I used some Nord-loc washers with mine instead of the ARP washers and they haven't come loose in a couple of heat cycles.

Thanks. I based my selection on 3" spacing and 1 3/8 square ports. Must be ports are actually 1 3/8 x 1 7/16. I didn't allow for washers in my numbers so adding washers will put the threads below the end of the nut. Did yours end up that way?

PMD24
07-19-2025, 01:31 PM
I used Remflex 3083 gaskets and ARP 100-1404 with the ARP 12 point nuts. No issues so far but as mentioned check your bolt spacing.

Thanks Mike. Did you use washers? I tend to avoid washers anywhere I can based on some background with utility equipment operating under pretty extreme conditions. On that equipment you almost never see washers; for a variety of reasons.

Any thoughts on stainless vs the black oxide studs, brass nuts, thread engagement on the nut?

Thanks,

Pat

CraigS
07-19-2025, 03:12 PM
Can some of you verify that you can get the headers onto the studs. I know in my MkII I HAD to use bolts because the footbox aluminum didn't allow room to get the flange over a stud.

cv2065
07-19-2025, 03:14 PM
Thanks. I based my selection on 3" spacing and 1 3/8 square ports. Must be ports are actually 1 3/8 x 1 7/16. I didn't allow for washers in my numbers so adding washers will put the threads below the end of the nut. Did yours end up that way?

Mine looked like this snugged down with washer. Don't forget your anti seize on the studs going into the head. I have no issues getting the header over the studs, even on the driver's side. Plenty of space.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f902336b-0559-46ae-b0be-a8a702361541.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a0216-6f9e-4cc9-a0be-2ec53fb3e15d/f902336b-0559-46ae-b0be-a8a702361541.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Mike.Bray
07-20-2025, 10:12 AM
Thanks Mike. Did you use washers? I tend to avoid washers anywhere I can based on some background with utility equipment operating under pretty extreme conditions. On that equipment you almost never see washers; for a variety of reasons.

Any thoughts on stainless vs the black oxide studs, brass nuts, thread engagement on the nut?

Thanks,

Pat

Because the ARP kit had 12 point flange nuts I didn't use washers. I don't mind washers, I just never use (worthless) lock washers.

Brass nuts on exhaust fasteners is a definite plus, I used them on the ball sockets and they've never loosened but yet can be easily removed. Because brass is relatively soft I used double height brass nuts for more thread engagement. The issue I had with my FFR headers is they are 2" bolt spacing so some of the bolt to header clearances are very tight. I pretty much had to use the 12 point nuts which I couldn't find in brass. Using the 3" spacing is much better and brass nuts is probably a good thing if you can find fine thread ones.

Mike.Bray
07-20-2025, 10:15 AM
Can some of you verify that you can get the headers onto the studs. I know in my MkII I HAD to use bolts because the footbox aluminum didn't allow room to get the flange over a stud.

I have a 351W based engine in a MKIV and no issue at all getting the headers over the studs, and I've done it a few times. I can just about throw my headers from across the room and they'll go on. Now a Coyote....well the BUFF is a different story.

CraigS
07-21-2025, 06:20 AM
Thanks guys!

Jim1855
07-21-2025, 06:03 PM
Studs / bolts what's the difference with installation?
If a tight fit, install what studs you can and then screw in the rest once the header is in place.
I always use set screws, not "official" studs. These are Grade 8, Carbon Steel with hex holes for Allen wrenches, generally cheap too.
I also use a "bottoming" tap to clean out the last/bottom of the threads and then grind down the normal "cup" point on the screw to flat. This procedure gets the deepest installed depth.
But then I'm cheap & easy.
Jim

cv2065
07-21-2025, 08:21 PM
Studs / bolts what's the difference with installation?
If a tight fit, install what studs you can and then screw in the rest once the header is in place.
I always use set screws, not "official" studs.

In my experience it’s night and day. When you can leisurely hang the gasket, then hang the header, find your nuts and install them on the studs, taking my time with all of it. That’s worlds different then having to hold it all up at one time, sandwiching the gasket, sweating my arse off all the while hoping I don’t cross thread a bolt while I’m hurrying to get it all aligned. Especially on the driver’s side. I’ll never go back to bolts again.I’ve seen the light. ;)

PMD24
07-21-2025, 08:34 PM
Did a test fit today using some grade 5 bolts I had laying around. It's going to be pretty tight relative to the spark plug socket. If the flat of the nut is adjacent to the hole I can get the socket in. If the nut point is adjacent, I can't get the socket in. Hopefully the 12pt nuts will allow clearance for the socket. They should be here in a day or two, and I'll provide an update.

Thanks to all for the input.

Pat