Oil smoke from the right side of car

[EZ$]

Wasn't sure what to call this thread. I'm becoming a bit frustrated with this situation. I've been having a situation where when I reach my destination, slow to an idle like when parking, that I'm getting oil smoke from the right exhaust, and sometimes from under the hood. It's not a horrible amount, but it's not something that I want to have at all. I thought that my air/oil separator may be having a minor drip once in a while, and it was dripping onto the J-pipe, so I tightened all the fittings, and to make sure it wasn't leaking from the drain I pulled the cap and replaced it with a drain hose and plugged the end so that I could monitor if the drain valve was leaking. There are no obvious leaks anywhere, especially those that would drip onto somewhere that would cause the oil to burn. Since it only appears to be coming from the passenger side what other things should I be looking for, and/or what else could be causing the issue.

On a secondary issue, I'm still having the twitchy steering on the freeway that I noted before. I have power steering using a standard Ford Mustang pump which I modified during the build to remove a section of the pressure spring, (instructions from a 10 plus year old thread to reduce the assist), but I'm now thinking that this did not reduce the assist enough, and it's only manifesting itself at speed. Is there any way to reduce the assist at speed, like with a heidts(??) valve? It really bothers me to have the car jumping back and forth in the lane.

Thans for any help on either subject.

[egchewy79]

Are you sure it's only happening when you slow down? or is it happening while you're driving and you just don't see/smell the burning oil?
Any burnt on oil anywhere you can see? valve covers, exhaust manifolds, J pipes, side pipes? Any oil leaking from your water pump cover/bolts that is getting blown back towards the headers by the fan?

[Ducky2009]

Check your power steering fluid level. I had the fitting inside (diverts the fluid 90 degrees inside the reservoir) the FF reservoir (reservoir supplied in 2017) come loose inside. High pressure fluid then pumped straight up and was forced out the tiny overflow hole in the lid, covering the headers and smoked on the PS.

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

quickest way to see temp difference in the cylinder is to spray all 4 header tubes at the head with a spray bottle of water while it is/has been running. (infared temp gun works well also.) Its easy to see a cold cylinder.

[Mike.Bray]

If you want to play with the power steering flow you can try this.

https://classicperform.com/shop/90400

[Jeff Kleiner]

Wasn't sure what to call this thread. I'm becoming a bit frustrated with this situation. I've been having a situation where when I reach my destination, slow to an idle like when parking, that I'm getting oil smoke from the right exhaust, and sometimes from under the hood. It's not a horrible amount, but it's not something that I want to have at all. I thought that my air/oil separator may be having a minor drip once in a while, and it was dripping onto the J-pipe, so I tightened all the fittings, and to make sure it wasn't leaking from the drain I pulled the cap and replaced it with a drain hose and plugged the end so that I could monitor if the drain valve was leaking. There are no obvious leaks anywhere, especially those that would drip onto somewhere that would cause the oil to burn. Since it only appears to be coming from the passenger side what other things should I be looking for, and/or what else could be causing the issue.

On a secondary issue, I'm still having the twitchy steering on the freeway that I noted before. I have power steering using a standard Ford Mustang pump which I modified during the build to remove a section of the pressure spring, (instructions from a 10 plus year old thread to reduce the assist), but I'm now thinking that this did not reduce the assist enough, and it's only manifesting itself at speed. Is there any way to reduce the assist at speed, like with a heidts(??) valve? It really bothers me to have the car jumping back and forth in the lane.

Thans for any help on either subject.

When you say "I'm getting oil smoke from the right exhaust" do you mean out of the pipe? If so that means that you have oil getting into one or more cylinders on that bank...piston rings, valve seals/guides or being drawn in through a failed intake manifold gasket and would have nothing to do with the oil separator.

As for "twitchy steering on the freeway"; what are your tire pressures and what are your alignment settings? Have you measured for bump steer? Tires should be at 22-24 psi and you should be running .5 to .75 degree negative camber, 7 to 8 degrees positive caster and 3/32" total toe in (be sure that it's toe in, not toe out). If you put a Mk4 together as directed by the manual bump steer is virtually nonexistent. If the car has bad habits reducing the assist won't change it, it will only make the wheel harder to turn.

Jeff

[EZ$]

So the motor and surrounding areas are clean and free of oil residue. No leaks from the valve covers, and the last time I was under there, the oil pan is also free of leaks. The reason I worked on the air oil separator was that it did have fresh oil dripping from the drain valve, and because of its location, the oil would most likely blow towards the rear of the engine compartment when moving, but when sitting still the J-pipe is directly below it. Truthfully, I'm not certain if the oil smoke is just being blown out on the passenger side, or if it is actually coming out of the side pipe. If this turns into an internal motor issue I may be finished. With all the motor related issues I had originally, I don't think I could take it. I'll try to confirm where it is coming from and post that.

Jeff, I've been running 20 lbs. all around. That was what I remembered from my reading during the build. Easy enough to raise the pressure by a few pounds. I had Brenden from Krause Racing align it two years ago. I believe it was right at 6 degrees with .9 negative camber, and .06 inch toe in. If these need to be adjusted, I can always take it back in to have it redone. As far as the PS, with the Mustang PS pump, and running the Mustang hydroboost brake manifold, I was just thinking that maybe the adjustment that I made by cutting the internal spring to reduce the steering boost did not reduce the assist enough. On the freeway, I find that it's impossible to hold the wheel still enough. It takes nothing to move in the lane, and the adjustment to get back on track just compounds the twitchyness. Maybe it's just me. I've driven pickup trucks for most of my adult life, so maybe I'm just having trouble getting used to how quick this moves with almost no input.

[weendoggy]

If you want to test the engine for tightness, do a compression and leak-down test. That way you're not "guessing" at what it could/might be. Do it cold and hot (at least up to temp).

imo: the cutting of the spring is not the way to go about pressure. Especially with the stock Ford pump. Either use a Heidts valve, and/or change it to a Type II, which can change with specific valves. I run (always have) a Heidts valve, and now with a Type II pump. No issues and Camber at 2.5° and Caster 7° with 0° Toe, 24psi/F, 26psi/R (IRS), using a 14" wheel. Other factors to look at suspension geometry setup.

[kgkeys]

Rick,

Regarding the twitchiness, check your IRS hub nuts. They have a tendency to back off. It happened to me, and driving down the highway at speed was like trying to balance a broom on a fingertip!

Kyle

[EZ$]

Glenn, I'll look into running those tests. I'll just have to find someone who actually has a clue about how to do them! As far as cutting the spring, back when I was building this, discussions were happening about how to make the PS have less boost at speed but still assist at low speed. Heidts valves were discussed, but it wasn't clear if they were the answer. I can't remember the thread, but it was definitely on the other site. Something about "how I learned to love my PS". Unfortunately, this is one of the reasons that I have put so few miles on the car, It's just not comfortable at speed.

Kyle, that has to be one of the best descriptions of how it is to drive this, and if I had to that is exactly what it's like! I'll check the hub nuts and see if that helps.

[weendoggy]

Rick,
I've had PS on my car since day one, over 26yrs and not one problem with PS, both with the Ford and now Type II pump. I never even considered cutting a spring, known as "Primative Pete" in my auto shop days. :) I know your an hour or so from me and could easily do the tests, but it would have to be at my place. If you're inclinded, let me know.

[EZ$]

Fantastic offer! Let me see if I can get comfortable with the situation I have with the car. I may try what Kyle had mentioned and check the torque on the IRS hub nuts to see if that corrects the twitchy nature along with increasing the tire pressure a couple of pounds. Early on, when I got it back from paint, I went to meet some guys at Alice's in Woodside. At that time, I wasn't experiencing the steering issues, but it's gotten bad. That's why it makes me nervous. I read about some that had lost the axles at speed because of the hub nuts. Don't want to go there. I'll try to get these squared away and get back to you. Thanks

[kgkeys]

Early on, when I got it back from paint, I went to meet some guys at Alice's in Woodside. At that time, I wasn't experiencing the steering issues, but it's gotten bad.

That's kind of what makes me think it could be your hub nuts. Mine got progressively worse, as well, while I was on a road trip. I could have SWORN it was something in the front-end. But, when I got back and went through the front-end, everything was good. So I moved to the rear and that's when I found the driver-side hub nut backed off 1/4-3/8 of a turn. On the driver side, I swapped the Dorman style nut for a Ford W707772-S441 Nylock style nut. I couldn't get the passenger side nut broke loose, so I left the Dorman nut on the passenger side. :D

Kyle

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[CraigS]

W/ a Mustang pump I didn't have luck w/ a Heidts valve. By the time I got it adjusted to a highway feel I liked I had parking lot problems. You know how ina lot you sometimes let the clutch out a bit too fast and engine speed drops to say 500 but doesn't stall? I'd lose assist then. Felt it could be a problem if a kid dashed out just at that same time. I ended up using a pump for a 99 Explorer. It is the GM type. In spite of the pic on the box this # is for the version that needs a remote reservoir. I cut the spring in this one too.
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BTW if you DECREASE the front tire pressure that will make the steering feel heavier. Go to 18# as a test. Best wishes.

[EZ$]

Thanks again Kyle. Before I could go any distance on the freeway this is something that I have to check first. Is that nylock nut something that a Ford dealer would carry in their parts dept, or is it order only?

Thanks Craig. Up until recently the PS has been just fine. Plenty of assist at very low speed turning, but fine out on the road. I may try the decrease in pressure as a test as well.

[kgkeys]

Is that nylock nut something that a Ford dealer would carry in their parts dept, or is it order only?

I think that same nut was used on late model Expeditions and such. I bet your chances are good to be able to find it locally. I ordered mine online, though.

Kyle

[EZ$]

Thanks Kyle