Power Surge's Coupe #692 Gen3 build...

[Power Surge]

Guess it's a good time to start up a build thread for my Daytona. The car is ordered, and I've got a completion date of late August. It was originally sooner, but I requested pushing it back a month so I can work on getting the garage ready.

My plan for the car is a nice, vintage looking, fun street driver. Will visually be like one of the original cars. Guardsman blue with Wimbleton white stripes. Vintage looking interior. Pin drive wheels. Planning a nice high revving 289 or 302 with Webers.

Here is how I've done the initial order. Naturally I can change it up from now till when they call to go over the final specs.

- Gen 3 Complete Coupe Kit
- Powder coated chassis
- SBF motor mounts
- FFR 302 headers and stainless side exhaust
- Manual clutch cable
- 3 link rear setup
- Moser complete built 3 link 8.8, narrow width
- Power steering rack
- Black Coupe GPS upgrade gauges
- Black vinyl roadster seats
- 11" front brake setup
- 11.65" rear complete brake setup
- Standard wood steering wheel
- Coupe A/C option
- Coupe black carpet kit
- Coupe side window kit
- Front sway bar upgrade

I am not sure if I should get the body cut out option. I would like to hear from people if they felt FFR does a good job or should I do my own cut outs.

Additional/upgraded parts so far are as follows:

- SBF with TFS 170 heads, 10:1 comp, Webers. Should be about 400-450 hp.
- Tremec TKX trans setup
- TFS fuel filter setup on rear of frame
- Extra a/c dash vents
- Snakebite trunk compartment
- Backup camera/rear view mirror
- Pro-m fuel pump hanger
- Boig coolant tubes
- Digital Guard Dawg RFIK system
- Door poppers (maybe)
- Breeze fuel tank vent kit
- Breeze fan shroud
- Howe Racing upper ball joints
- Vintage Wheels pin drive FIA wheels. Using the Gen3 front wheels, and Gen1/2 rear wheels with the narrowed Moser rear for a more "tucked" rear look


These are some of the ideas I've got based on member build posts here and feedback on the Facebook pages. I was considering the turn signal column as well, but several coupe owners said a switch on the dash works just fine (and looks more vintage).

Any feedback or additional suggestions are welcome!

Sal

[edwardb]

Nice looking build. I really like the IRS in my Gen3 Coupe. But maybe with your choice of pin drive, the options are limited. Hopefully you've sorted out the front suspension issues with pin drive. That Pro-M hangar has doubled in price recently. Not sure why but it's crazy. There are other options that make more sense. Like Aeromotive 18638 or Holley 12-345 (what I'm using in my Mk5 Roadster build). I'd let Factory Five do the cutouts. Not a lot of them on the Coupe, but still gets you in the ballpark and not expensive.

[Power Surge]

Thanks Paul. I have read your awesome build thread as well as several other people's, and they have been incredible references for pictures and other parts ideas.

As for the wheels, vintage Wheels makes a pin Drive wheel setup specifically for the stock gen 3 Coop suspension. That is why I am going to use their gen 3 front wheels with the stock coupe front suspension, and because I want the more vintage tucked look on the back I'm doing the narrowed solid axle with the Gen 1 / Gen 2 pin Drive Wheels. Thank you my due diligence on the research for this and I believe this will work. So if somebody has first hand experience with this that contradicts it I would love to hear.

[burchfieldb]

Congrats and welcome! 2nd on Paul's recommendation on the cutouts. I didn't feel the cost outweighed the time it would take to get them cut right.

[460.465USMC]

Welcome aboard, Sal! You've put together a really nice list of upgrades/options.

I also chose the F5 cutout option for my Coupe build (and my MK4 build as well). I agree with the guys above and recommend it too.

[Lugnut Mark]

I chose the cutout option for my coupe as well ....think it will get me close enough for me to fine tune it later and the less fiberglass dust the better LOL!!

[Power Surge]

Got my final order review done, and added the cut outs. Completion date is 8/23. Stewart Transport standing by when ready. Been working on getting the garage ready for the build. Epoxy painted the floor, new white pegboard wall panels, new fuse panel and rewired everything, and new garage lighting. We're getting there.

[Power Surge]

Ok did a little space testing this weekend, where I plan to build the coupe. Brought my Monroe Handler back to the garage since it's close in size. Got plenty of room. I could fit two of these cars in there, and there's still about 4 ft left in front of the car too. Should be more than enough space for the chassis build, body off, and all the parts for the car.

BTW, the Monroe Handler IS for sale... if anyone wants the opportunity to own a super rare piece of automotive history. Shoot me a PM.

https://i.ibb.co/xZkhQkX/20250809-160432.jpg (https://ibb.co/YgC2GCP)

[8secDuster]

You own one of the Handler's.
Very Cool!
Always liked those.

[Power Surge]

You own one of the Handler's.
Very Cool!
Always liked those.

Yes sir. One of the 6 original promotion cars, and the only one still with it's original paint.

[Lugnut Mark]

Hey power surge any updates on your coupe?

[Power Surge]

Hey power surge any updates on your coupe?

Funny you should ask... ;)

Delivered yesterday :D


https://i.ibb.co/BHnP2NLh/20250914-114001.jpg (https://ibb.co/RGjSTy2X)

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[Power Surge]

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[JimStone]

Let the fun begin!

[Lugnut Mark]

You lucky dog …. My completion date is 9/20/25 so in five days…. but Stewart transport said they can’t deliver till early or mid October ….. With that being said I’m playing the waiting game! Super happy for you though Congratulations on receiving your kit enjoy your build…Just out of curiosity what state are you in?

[Power Surge]

You lucky dog …. My completion date is 9/20/25 so in five days…. but Stewart transport said they can’t deliver till early or mid October ….. With that being said I’m playing the waiting game! Super happy for you though Congratulations on receiving your kit enjoy your build…Just out of curiosity what state are you in?

Thanks! I'm in St Augustine.

[burchfieldb]

Just in time for some nice fall weather, congrats. Curious to see how you build yours.

[JTG]

You lucky dog …. My completion date is 9/20/25 so in five days…. but Stewart transport said they can’t deliver till early or mid October ….. With that being said I’m playing the waiting game! Super happy for you though Congratulations on receiving your kit enjoy your build…Just out of curiosity what state are you in?

There are a lot of Coupe builds to follow at them moment which is great. Just got confirmation from Todd @ Stewart that we'll have ours this Saturday the 21st!!

I look forward to following along with your build.

[Sea Hut]

Sitting here in Amelia Island watching your delivery pictures! While my build date is now complete, F5 will be holding my kit until end of December.

In the meantime, a few questions. I’m seeing both blue and red bodies on these. What gives? Anniversary edition vs conventional build? Is there an option for a carbon fiber dash on the coupe? When do the carbon fiber bodies come in for the anniversary models? And, I’ve seen some make a body buck for the coupe and others seem to just store it away or hang it from the ceiling. Your plan?

Kind of an overall blast to the forum members for info but may be making a road trip to meet as your build progresses!

[Lugnut Mark]

Sal…my kids and grandson live in nocatee fl so right up the road from you…. we visit them at least once a month maybe next time we are headed that way we can meet up so I can see your kit …. I’ve never actually have seen a Daytona in person before …. If you would be cool with that send me a pm and I’ll give you my phone # …Thanks
Best Regards
Mark

[Lugnut Mark]

Sea hut …I believe the blue bodies are designated for the 30th anniversary cars …. I believe the carbon bodies are having problems being delivered due to embargo’s and the carbon dash as of right now is not available either…… otherwise I would have purchased one with my kit …. If your coupe has been completed why if I may ask is it not getting delivered to dec?

[Power Surge]

Sitting here in Amelia Island watching your delivery pictures! While my build date is now complete, F5 will be holding my kit until end of December.

In the meantime, a few questions. I’m seeing both blue and red bodies on these. What gives? Anniversary edition vs conventional build? Is there an option for a carbon fiber dash on the coupe? When do the carbon fiber bodies come in for the anniversary models? And, I’ve seen some make a body buck for the coupe and others seem to just store it away or hang it from the ceiling. Your plan?

Kind of an overall blast to the forum members for info but may be making a road trip to meet as your build progresses!

The blue bodies are for the 30th anniversary cars. Trust me, I tried to get a blue body, lol. The carbon fiber body is an additional option, for 30th cars. I'm not planning on doing a body buck, but that could change.

[Power Surge]

Sal…my kids and grandson live in nocatee fl so right up the road from you…. we visit them at least once a month maybe next time we are headed that way we can meet up so I can see your kit …. I’ve never actually have seen a Daytona in person before …. If you would be cool with that send me a pm and I’ll give you my phone # …Thanks
Best Regards
Mark

Sure, I would be fine with that. Shoot me a PM.

[Sea Hut]

OK, that explains the color difference. Thanks! I’m lined up for the anniversary model. Due to an extended travel schedule in the fall, I asked F5 if they could hold mine until I return in December. They agreed, of course with receipt of my full payment ��! I’m hoping by then that things might be a little clearer regarding the cf stuff.

[Power Surge]

Now that I have a printed build manual ($300 later), I went through it and familiarized myself with everything. I made a list of small items to send out for powder coat (mainly little brackets and spacers that I do not foresee needing modification) and dropped them off.

I've acquired some more initial items to aid the build. Got the set of rivet spacers from Aircraft Spruce. I bought a bunch of different size Clecos (not pictured here). I got the Harbor Freight Doyle Rivnut tool after seeing such great recommendations for it. Also got a bunch of different sized rivnuts, in steel and aluminum from McMaster Carr, along with a few tubes of inspection marking gel. Picked up the Howe Racing upper ball joints and Energy Suspension ball joint covers that many seem to use here. I've also had a stool I got from my Napa rep a while back and never used, and I figured it would be perfect with the work bench for the build!

I would like to get some feedback on two thoughts I have... panel silicone and panel rivets.

Do the panels need the "adhesion" of the silicone, or is it mainly for sealing and noise reduction? Could I use thin rubber stripping instead? I have also seen some people use body seam sealer instead of actual silicone.

As for the rivets.... could one use button head screws instead of rivets on the paneling?

I guess I'm just thinking about if any panels need to be removed in the future for accessing anything for service.

Thoughts?

https://i.ibb.co/p6NJ88D9/20251004-165307.jpg (https://ibb.co/ZRvWPPsk)

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[edwardb]

Adhesive of the panels is important. The rivets are too, but also serve to hold the panels in place while the adhesive material cures. I recommend against doing something different. Even the thinnest rubber strips are going to mess with the relatively close fit of the panels. There has been lots of discussion about the most suitable adhesive. Plain old GE silicone sealant from the big box stores is probably the most common. Relatively inexpensive, available in multiple colors, and does the job. Some have suggested using polyurethane products, like Sikaflex or similar. I've tried it. But not sure there's any big advantage and it's quite a bit more expensive.

There are a handful of panels that makes sense to have removable. Like the footbox top covers. But for the most part, the panels are buried in insulation materials and carpet. Not going to be easy to remove and I would question the value anyway. Once everything is installed (fuel lines, brake lines, electrical harness, etc.) they are still accessible should the need arise. Many panels wouldn't be removable anyway without doing major surgery like removing the body, removing the engine, seats, etc. As the saying goes, don't overthink it. Thousands before you have followed the formula successfully.

Posted the same on the other forum.

[Power Surge]

Adhesive of the panels is important. The rivets are too, but also serve to hold the panels in place while the adhesive material cures. I recommend against doing something different. Even the thinnest rubber strips are going to mess with the relatively close fit of the panels. There has been lots of discussion about the most suitable adhesive. Plain old GE silicone sealant from the big box stores is probably the most common. Relatively inexpensive, available in multiple colors, and does the job. Some have suggested using polyurethane products, like Sikaflex or similar. I've tried it. But not sure there's any big advantage and it's quite a bit more expensive.

There are a handful of panels that makes sense to have removable. Like the footbox top covers. But for the most part, the panels are buried in insulation materials and carpet. Not going to be easy to remove and I would question the value anyway. Once everything is installed (fuel lines, brake lines, electrical harness, etc.) they are still accessible should the need arise. Many panels wouldn't be removable anyway without doing major surgery like removing the body, removing the engine, seats, etc. As the saying goes, don't overthink it. Thousands before you have followed the formula successfully.

Posted the same on the other forum.

Thanks Paul. I am sure I was overthinking it. I expected a response like yours...guess I just needed to hear it, lol.

BTW, your build is one that I constantly read over for ideas and references. :cool:

[Power Surge]

Wooo... my Moser complete 3 link axle showed up.

I did the narrow width version, because I want to do tucked pin drive wheels, similar to how the original cars looked.

I cannot find anyone with a Gen3 who's done 15" pin drive wheels, so I'll be figuring this out on my own lol.

https://i.ibb.co/8D8qp6xs/20251011-101459.jpg (https://ibb.co/WWKZwgz5)

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[Power Surge]

Got the Moser/FFR 3 link rear end and suspension parts all mocked up in the car. I need to mock up the front and rear suspension stuff with the body on, so I can figure out what I need to do make my wheel setup work.

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[Lugnut Mark]

Looking great Sal … I completed inventory today and started to layout parts where they are going to permanently live ….. this is so much fun for me to start out with all brand new parts and have everything accounted for is awesome …. The only thing that ff missed that is not on my POL list are the spring washers for my steering linkage … other than that everything is present and accounted for … My car serial number is 1000686dc what’s yours ? Also I was doing some new car goofing by laying the wheels in the wheel wells check it out 220047220046

[Power Surge]

Looking great Sal … I completed inventory today and started to layout parts where they are going to permanently live ….. this is so much fun for me to start out with all brand new parts and have everything accounted for is awesome …. The only thing that ff missed that is not on my POL list are the spring washers for my steering linkage … other than that everything is present and accounted for … My car serial number is 1000686dc what’s yours ? Also I was doing some new car goofing by laying the wheels in the wheel wells check it out 220047220046

Inventory is a great way to learn about the car. It was fun for me too. I was also just missing some washers and two small brackets.

Looks like you have car 686. I've got 692.

Your wheels looks awesome!

[Lugnut Mark]

Thank you sir … we are both making progress ….. build on my friend! Installed power rack and assembled shocks as well … 220086220087

[Power Surge]

So I spend some time this weekend working on figuring out my wheel/suspension setup some more.

I painted all the calipers and mounts with black G2 epoxy caliper paint. Also hit the outer tie rods with some G2 as well so they aren't bare metal.

I got the rear brakes installed on the 3 link rear. Oddly, there are no instructions to install the rear brakes in the build manual. I had to find the instructions on the FFR parts site under the actual rear brake kit. Caliper mounts, calipers, and rotors are on. This way I can check rear wheel setup.

I slipped a cheap wheel spacer on the rotor, to simulate the thickness of the pin drive adapters. Then I put on the Speedway wheel offset tool, set to the width and offset that match the Vintage Wheels narrow rear width pin drive wheels (15x9.5 with 3.75" backspace). Looks like this will give me the tucked rear offset I am looking for (like the original cars).

On the front....not so happy. I found a local guy that was selling the exact Avon CR6 front tires I plan to run. They are old, but will be perfect for mock up. Installed them on the Speedway wheel tool, and set them to the Vintage Wheels Gen3 coupe pin drive offset wheel specs (15x7.5 with 4.25 backspace). Even with the wheel offset that's made for the Gen3, it still sticks way too far out.

I need to go with pin drive control arms. When I ordered my car, pin drive front setup was an option, but I was then told FFR doesn't offer it anymore, and also was told it doesn't work on a coupe, so I was sent standard stuff. But in doing lots of research, the pin drive setup works fine on a gen3 Coupe, and FFR does seem to still have them (they are currently listed in stock on the parts site, and another member was accidentally sent pin drive lowers as recently as a month ago).

So I need to get some pin drive lowers. I'm waiting to hear from FFR if they will exchange me for a set. For the uppers, I can shorten the adjustment collars, and cut down the rods (otherwise they will hit each other when adjusting shorter). I have seen some older posts where people sourced shorter adjustment collars. Anyone know where to get those? I can cut mine down on the lathe, but it would be nice to just buy short ones.

Anyway... some pics!

https://i.ibb.co/wN1mQ5MY/20251018-154242.jpg (https://ibb.co/SXpCmFRJ)

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[Power Surge]

Picked up a neat little tool recently. It's a wire marking tool. You place your color of choice Sharpie into the tool, then you pull white wire through the tool and it puts that color tracer stripe on it. Figured it would come in handy for adding in new wiring circuits.

I marked all the engine bay panels, took detailed pics of them all, including the overlaps, and recorded it all.

I also came up with a game plan to modify the front suspension for better pin drive offset. On the bottom, I am going to shorten the control arms 2", just like FFR does. Yes, I could buy their pin drive arms for $700, but I am honestly pretty salty that they won't swap mine out (like they have done for others), especially since I told them I wanted pin drive when I ordered my kit. So I'm just not paying another $700 after spending over 30k. I'll modify mine.

On the top, here's the plan.... Machine 1/2" off each end of the adjustment collars on the upper control arms. Then shorten the threaded ends by 1/2" so they don't hit each other inside the shorter adjustment collars. This will give me 1 inch of the needed 2 inches to match the lowers, but still leave plenty of thread contact inside the collars. Then I will move the mounting holes on the frame back 1 inch to move the entire upper control arm inward. This will give me the other 1 inch needed to make up 2 inches.

By doing this method, I am simply moving the spindle inwards 2 inches, and I can keep the 2 piece spindle and not mess with any weird geometry. At least that's the plan, lol.



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[Lugnut Mark]

Looks like your getting some things figured out for the pin drive wheels ….nice !

[Power Surge]

Ok, so I think the front suspension redesign was a success. As previously mentioned, I wanted to move everything inboard 2" because I did not care for the look of the wheel offset on the Gen3 coupe, especially with pin drive setup wheels.

Here is what I did to achieve this...

- shorten the lower control arms 2" (basically reproducing FFR's shortened lowers)
- shorten the upper control arms 1", by cutting each end of the adjustment collar down 1/2" on each side, and the also shorten the male threads by 1/2" on both sides (so they won't hit each other inside the adjustment collar). Did this on my lathe.
- move the upper control arm mounting holes inboard by 1". Thus giving me a combined 2" at the top with the shortened control arms.

Doing it this way, allowed me to keep the two piece spindle setup, not have any whacky geometry, and still moved everything in by 2". Using the Speedway wheel offset tool set to simulate the Vintage Wheels Gen3 coupe front wheel specs, the tire now sits inside the fender area instead of sticking out.

So hopefully, mission accomplished, lol.

On a side note....does anyone know if the lower ball joints are pressed in, or screwed into, the FFR lower control arms?

BEFORE....

https://i.ibb.co/wN1mQ5MY/20251018-154242.jpg (https://ibb.co/SXpCmFRJ)

AFTER....

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https://i.ibb.co/x8MdwP7f/20251108-182047.jpg (https://ibb.co/2YjHRmks)

[PNWTim]

I believe they are pressed in if I remember correctly. Mine had a snap ring keeper I had to install. That's a lot of work you did and it looks like it's turning out nice.

[Power Surge]

I believe they are pressed in if I remember correctly. Mine had a snap ring keeper I had to install. That's a lot of work you did and it looks like it's turning out nice.

Thank you Tim. This car is going to be my final build, so I am trying to make everything exactly how I envision. Might not work out that way, but I'm gonna try :cool:

[Lugnut Mark]

Quite the difference in length… that should get you where you want to be…. nice work!

[Power Surge]

Got my next batch of powder coating back. Modified shortened control arms, sway bar brackets, and sway bar spacers (which I didn't need). Finally got to fully assemble the front end. All spacers, brackets, and the tie rod spindle mounts powder coated. Used the Howe Racing upper ball joints, and the Energy Suspension boots on the upper and lower ball joints. I did run into one snafu... with the shortened control arms, I couldn't use the upgraded Moog tie rod ends. I had to use the stock ones supplied with the kit, and shorten both the inner and outers a bit. So I will need to coat those tie rods black like I did with the Moogs. Didn't need to use the sway bar spacers and long bolts, because the sway bar was originally intended for narrowed control arms. So they just bolted directly to the rod ends. Got the hubs and brakes installed also. Well, after a trip for some missing hardware. It's amazing how much hardware has been missing from the kit so far.




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[Power Surge]

Started working on the fuel system stuff also. I used my flat wide body vise grips to flatten the seams on the tank. I had some Killmat sound deadening material leftover from doing the interior in my Bricklin, so I put some on the top of the tank, the edge that contacts the frame, and the tank straps. I installed the Breeze oversize vent/rollover valve to help with fuel fill up. I opened the outlet of the fuel pick up for better flow, per FFR directions. I got some fittings and PTFE line from Racetronix (I get all my AN stuff from them). One of the neat parts they sell, is bolt on adapters for the stock quick release ends on the fuel pump pickup that gives you AN ports. I capped off the return line, but it's there if I have a need to use it in the future. I got the Aeromotive 12317 canister fuel filter, as the common used Trick Flow part is no longer available. Double the price, but a really nice piece. The tank will go in after I get the body off, but at least it's all ready to go.




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[PNWTim]

Racetronix is a great outfit. They have quite a selection of fittings. Your work is looking good.

[burchfieldb]

Looks like you are making some good progress, keep it going. I also had to use the Aeromotive fuel filter canister since the Trickflow one was unavailable, both are nice quality. I have the Trickflow one on my engine run stand.

[Lugnut Mark]

Thanks again Sal … the Moog tie rod ends that you sent me are really helping me out with my suspension geometry especially since I cut down my steering rack …. The Moog ends are a little longer and definitely provide better engagement over the stock units … your a rockstar for helping me out I really appreciate it 223174223176223175223177 btw I finished painting that 55 Chevy that I’m working on at work check out the color in the sun !

[Power Surge]

No problem brother! I'm glad they helped you out. I couldn't use them because my shortened suspension....I actually had to use the supplied tie rods, and cut them down even shorter.

The 55 looks killer! I am definitely eager to see the progression of your paint and body work. I'm definitely serious about you painting my car when its time!

[Power Surge]

Nothing picture worthy to post right now, but definitely exciting things going on. I finally sold my Monroe Handler, so now I can start ordering up more parts!

Placed a big order with Forte's for my transmission stuff. Tremec TKX trans, bellhousing, clutch and related parts, genuine Ford clutch cable, and midshift shifter setup for the TKX.

Ordered the Digital Guard Dawg PCB-II RFIK passive ignition system. The PCB-II has programmable outputs, so I am going to use door popper solenoids (ordered those too).

Ordered the Auto-Vox rear camera mirror setup.

Ordered the E-Stopp electronic E-brake setup, to get rid of the visible e-brake handle. (I don't like the top mount handle, and relocating it to the pass side of the trans tunnel like original makes it hard to work).

I ordered a bunch of various size nylon wrap wire looming from McMaster-Carr, because I despise convoluted tubing on wiring harnesses :p.

Trying to order my wheels, but can't seem to get a hold of Bob Lacey.

I also started doing some panel rivet work. Man... it drives my OCD crazy that the self tapping screws FFR uses to secure the panels aren't centered in most of the panels. Thank god for the Aircraft-Spruce rivet spacing tool. With that, I can place a rivet hole over the screw hole, and then have a row of evenly spaced rivets.

[burchfieldb]

I feel your pain on the self tapper. I am going to attempt to braze the holes closed with aluminum rod. What door poppers are you going to use?

[Power Surge]

I feel your pain on the self tapper. I am going to attempt to braze the holes closed with aluminum rod. What door poppers are you going to use?

Yes, the "stick a screw anywhere" approach from FFR, is making me use more rivets than needed on some panels, just to have even spacing, lol. It's ok though.

I am using some 50lb JDMspeed poppers from Ebay. About 50 bucks for the pair. Same ones most guys use on GTM builds.

[Power Surge]

I finally had some help today removing the body... so now I can do a lot more with the car.

I was able to get the tank up in the car, and as I was hooking up the straps, I realized I will probably need to pull it back out for the drop trunk setup. One thing to note, the tank FFR sent me now has the hole already in the lip, for the fuel neck retainer bracket. I'm not keen on how the bolt head just mashes against the frame. I put some Killmat there, but who knows how long before it wears through.

I mounted up the Aeromotive canister fuel filter, in the usual spot most people use. Installed some Rivnuts for mounting. The Harbor Frieght Rivnut tool worked so well, I thought it wasn't fully seating them because it was so easy, lol.

I want to run some kind of charcoal canister for tank vent fumes. Doing some searching here on the forum, I found a post about a guy using a factory Mopar tank vent canister that is compact and seemed to work great. It's a little pricey ($130), but I like the OE quality factor. I'll post pics and part number when I get it.

I also started drilling rivet holes! Lots and lots of holes, lol. I definitely need way more Clecos. It's an interesting process figuring out where to drill holes, based on available access, and other surrounding panels. Also noticed some panels need some clearancing where they rub against welds and other tight spots. I have to notch the front side panels for the brake line access (like EdwardB's setup), and I also have to notch my radiator panel to clear my moved in upper control arms.

https://i.ibb.co/zHjxTZxh/1000008330.jpg (https://ibb.co/XkNLrtLZ)

https://i.ibb.co/cXSsKqHt/1000008331.jpg (https://ibb.co/Z1pbR9PK)

https://i.ibb.co/Wp2yXbDF/1000008332.jpg (https://ibb.co/M5CVHY8p)

https://i.ibb.co/6RGt8KWL/1000008339.jpg (https://ibb.co/3yVFvxCQ)

[8secDuster]

Hey Sal,
I couldn't get a picture to post with the message I sent, so I'll do it here.
This is my shifter location using a Tremec Forward Shift / Mid-Shift Kit on my TKX. It puts the shifter just a hair forward of center in the factory shifter cut-out.
The F5R supplied shifter boot will still work also. I personally did not like the feel of the shifter any further rearward, I found it awkward and uncomfortable even rotating the shifter 180 to the stock forward position.

[Power Surge]

Hey Sal,
I couldn't get a picture to post with the message I sent, so I'll do it here.
This is my shifter location using a Tremec Forward Shift / Mid-Shift Kit on my TKX. It puts the shifter just a hair forward of center in the factory shifter cut-out.
The F5R supplied shifter boot will still work also. I personally did not like the feel of the shifter any further rearward, I found it awkward and uncomfortable even rotating the shifter 180 to the stock forward position.

Thanks Mike. I just wanted to make sure I needed the shifter relocation, which I know now that I do.

Do you happen to have a pic of how you mounted your rear brake hose brackets to the chassis? The manual is not very helpful for 3 link cars for where to mount them.

[Power Surge]

Nothing spectacular to report today.... just been plugging away at drilling rivet holes. Billions and billions of holes... :p

Got most of the footbox, floor, and cockpit panels fitted and drilled for rivets. Definitely have to fit some of these panels around weld beads and whatnot. I think this process is a good way to learn how everything will be laid out in the car.

Got some goodies from Brent at Snakebite. Really nice stuff. The drop trunk setup impressed me.

Waiting for my next batch of parts to be done at the powder coaters.

Got some crappy news from Bob at Vintage Wheels that the foundry that cast their FIA wheels closed down. They are working with a new foundry, but going to be a while before the FFR versions are done.

I ordered some black rivets for the panels that I plan to powder coat black. Yes, I might be a tad OCD, lol.

https://i.ibb.co/vxBjbV9Q/1000008380.jpg (https://ibb.co/XZ4C9jH3)

https://i.ibb.co/vFypPFq/1000008381.jpg (https://ibb.co/4qvzTqt)

https://i.ibb.co/fzWtMJ4r/1000008382.jpg (https://ibb.co/wFqCytMp)

https://i.ibb.co/380xFtx/1000008388.jpg (https://ibb.co/HMrcPmc)

https://i.ibb.co/Tn5V4n1/1000008389.jpg (https://ibb.co/JbPfvbq)

https://i.ibb.co/mVRQmXv1/1000008390.jpg (https://ibb.co/sdgLh65k)

[8secDuster]

Do you happen to have a pic of how you mounted your rear brake hose brackets to the chassis? The manual is not very helpful for 3 link cars for where to mount them.


I didn't take any measurements Sal, I just put a wheel on it to make sure the brake hose cleared the back side of the dish and marked the bracket location a little higher knowing the 90 hose fitting would be pointing downward.
Then duplicated the other side.

223625

I wish I could get pictures to attach correctly...

[Jphoenix]

"Man... it drives my OCD crazy that the self tapping screws FFR uses to secure the panels aren't centered in most of the panels."

Agreed - and not just not-centered, but also off the normal centered alignment. Saw this on both the Coupe an the 289, I mean it doesn't take much to simply center the screw hole, maybe a simple jig? Maybe they should use the jig they provide?

[Power Surge]

No work on the car this week, but got a bunch of stuff delivered. I bought a cheap $30 280 piece pegboard kit, and got my bench much better organized. I bought some 8-32 and 3/8-16 arbors for my Doyle Rivnut tool, since it doesn't come with those sizes. I also bought the Rigid brake line tool that everyone recommends.

My last backordered part came in - the window frames. I plan to modify these because I don't like the shape of the window openings. But that will come at a later date.

My Digital Guard Dawg kit showed up. I got the PBS-II since I plan to run door poppers.

Got another batch of powder coating back as well. I'll show those parts as they get installed.


https://i.ibb.co/wNtgb79Z/1000008435.jpg (https://ibb.co/1fcQpMDY)

https://i.ibb.co/Ld3VmRt4/1000008431.jpg (https://ibb.co/s9Z8nRwL)

https://i.ibb.co/G3d6fK4Q/1000008432.jpg (https://ibb.co/h1g6xPJF)

https://i.ibb.co/9mx9sXjh/1000008434.jpg (https://ibb.co/KctjFZHD)

https://i.ibb.co/6J8CLz5C/1000008433.jpg (https://ibb.co/HpC836Q8)

[Power Surge]

I got my carbon canister made as well. I used the kit supplied brake reservoir. I tapped a 1/2" barb in the bottom (I'm using the Breeze big vent kit with 1/2" hose). Then I drilled holes in the cap. Made some scotchbrite barriers for both ends to capture the carbon, and then filled it with activated carbon from Petco. I'm also using the kit supplied fuel filter mount, which has been powder coated. Should work nicely I hope.

And lastly, my order from Forte's arrived. Tremec TKX (2.87/.68) 5 speed. Tremec bellhousing, new midplate, Ford clutch cable (that oddly is made in Taiwan now), and RAM clutch setup. Also got the Forte's forward shifter kit, which Mike was awesome enough to pre-install for me on the transmission.


https://i.ibb.co/27rrHKJv/1000008436.jpg (https://ibb.co/Fb11C7p5)


https://i.ibb.co/B2tnDF3B/1000008437.jpg (https://ibb.co/fd2DRLFH)


https://i.ibb.co/Zpq7LzjX/1000008438.jpg (https://ibb.co/fzjL1dgF)


https://i.ibb.co/svd0yJHn/1000008439.jpg (https://ibb.co/N6d8ZnS5)

[PNWTim]

That's a nice assortment of parts to arrive. I am guessing you will have them all installed tomorrow or the next day?

[Dave Tabor]

What clutch it this?

I recently bought a new Ram clutch but did not install it yet.

Dave
Gen III #17

[Power Surge]

That's a nice assortment of parts to arrive. I am guessing you will have them all installed tomorrow or the next day?

LOL I wish, Tim. This won't be a "quick" build. I am just trying to consistently work on the car when I can.

[Power Surge]

What clutch it this?

I recently bought a new Ram clutch but did not install it yet.

Dave
Gen III #17

Hey Dave. I went with the RAM 98794T clutch. Seemed like a good balance of pedal feel and power rating (550hp).

[Dave Tabor]

Hey Dave. I went with the RAM 98794T clutch. Seemed like a good balance of pedal feel and power rating (550hp).

Cool - that looks like the one to get. I got one from the next line down - I'll see how it goes.

Thanks,
Dave
Gen III #17

[Power Surge]

I got a little more done on the car this weekend.

I finished clearancing the radiator panel for my relocated control arms.

I started installing the Rivnuts for the removable footbox top panels. The Doyle Rivnut tool is sooo nice.

I got my home made carbon canister mounted in the frame. I used the FFR supplied fuel filter bracket (powder coated of course) as the perfect mount for it.

I got the freshly powder coated pan hard bar installed back in the car, and tightened up all the rear suspension bolts.

I got the Snakebite Motors drop trunk installed. I did forget to bring the floor bottom to the powder coaters with the rest of the parts. But after thinking about it, you're not going to see the trunk box floor from under the car. Plus, I plan to line the inside with trunk felt, so it doesn't matter that it's not black.

Sharp eyes may notice I am using black rivets on any black panels. :cool:

https://i.ibb.co/YB87zmfw/1000008476.jpg (https://ibb.co/d460dFkx)

https://i.ibb.co/B2bNpnSz/1000008474.jpg (https://ibb.co/N25SvTHV)

https://i.ibb.co/dw01Z5sG/1000008471.jpg (https://ibb.co/tTMkRJw8)

https://i.ibb.co/pjXp446Y/1000008475.jpg (https://ibb.co/5hcVssXb)

https://i.ibb.co/35228mb1/1000008472.jpg (https://ibb.co/TD66nMGc)

[Power Surge]

I also got my pedal box installed. Since I am doing a vintage build (basically replicating CSX2299 best I can), I wanted to have original looking AC pedals. I made some pedal adapters by making some pedal standoffs and welding them to Wilwood pedals, cut down to match the pedal arms. I then powder coated the adapters, as well as the Wilwood pedal arms themselves. I am pretty pleased with how it came out.


https://i.ibb.co/9kjtjhw7/1000008467.jpg (https://ibb.co/KpHwHDNJ)

https://i.ibb.co/S4KWCP8z/1000008453.jpg (https://ibb.co/sdFkY2GZ)

https://i.ibb.co/YFk67CdY/1000008455.jpg (https://ibb.co/NdjX6vNQ)

https://i.ibb.co/gFmzryYr/1000008468.jpg (https://ibb.co/JFm5cnZc)

[Power Surge]

Not a lot of physical work this week... my brother (who lived with me) passed away this past week. It's been hard, but I know it will just take time. I've been spending time researching and ordering parts for the Daytona to keep myself occupied.

I decided I am going to go with a Blueprint 347. I like the idea of it being ready to run, with a warranty, and it will make close to the power I wanted.

I've been talking to Jim Inglese about the Weber induction system for the car. He's going to build me a period correct Cobra Weber setup, with FIA water/fuel neck (with right side outset for the FFR).

Parts to build the brake line system have been coming in this week.

That's about it for right now.

[Papa]

Sal,

My condolences on your loss.

Dave

[PNWTim]

Sorry to hear this Sal. Please accept my condolences.

[JimStone]

I'm sorry for your loss. Thoughts and prayers to you and your family.

[Skuzzy]

My condolences.

[8secDuster]

So sorry for your loss Sal

[burchfieldb]

Sorry for your loss.

[JTG]

I am sorry for your loss, I've been there too. There is comfort in keeping busy.

[Lugnut Mark]

Sorry for your loss Sal … it’s been a minute since I’ve checked up on your build so I’m just reading this now … my sincere condolences

[Power Surge]

Thank you guys, the condolences are welcomed. It's been hard...since he lived with me. I have been trying to tie up all his affairs for the past two weeks. And still more to do.

As for the Daytona, I have not physically worked on it in the past few weeks, but still making progress. The custom Weber setup from Jim Inglese is in production. I have ordered the Blueprint 347 and a few related parts (oil pan, starter, flywheel, etc) from Fortes. And the parts I ordered to do my brake lines have come in. So will be getting back to the car shortly.

[Afdent11]

Thank you guys, the condolences are welcomed. It's been hard...since he lived with me. I have been trying to tie up all his affairs for the past two weeks. And still more to do.

As for the Daytona, I have not physically worked on it in the past few weeks, but still making progress. The custom Weber setup from Jim Inglese is in production. I have ordered the Blueprint 347 and a few related parts (oil pan, starter, flywheel, etc) from Fortes. And the parts I ordered to do my brake lines have come in. So will be getting back to the car shortly.

Maybe this is a dumb question. I’m also getting the Blueprint 347 for my coupe build. Does it not come with the oil pan, starter, and flywheel?

[Power Surge]

Maybe this is a dumb question. I’m also getting the Blueprint 347 for my coupe build. Does it not come with the oil pan, starter, and flywheel?

The base 347 long block (which I what I ordered) does come with an oil pan. But I am doing a better shaped pan for performance and fit in the chassis (Champ rear sump pan).

They don't come with a starter or flywheel, but Blueprint does offer those things through their site for an extra charge. Or just source them yourself elsewhere.

[Papa]

Maybe this is a dumb question. I’m also getting the Blueprint 347 for my coupe build. Does it not come with the oil pan, starter, and flywheel?

If you buy the package from BluePrint specifically for the Factory Five, it will be turn-key. My BluePrint 347 and TKO came fully assembled and ready to put in the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84575&d=1524422081

[Afdent11]

If you buy the package from BluePrint specifically for the Factory Five, it will be turn-key. My BluePrint 347 and TKO came fully assembled and ready to put in the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84575&d=1524422081

Okay awesome. Thank you!

[460.465USMC]

Not a lot of physical work this week... my brother (who lived with me) passed away this past week. It's been hard, but I know it will just take time.

Just now catching up on your thread, Sal, and wanted to extend my condolences to you and your family. A difficult time for you as you grieve this significant loss. My heart goes out to you all.

[Power Surge]

I haven't done much physical work on the Daytona lately (have other vehicles that needed my attention), but I've ordered a lot of stuff for it, lol.

The main thing... my engine came. Blueprint 347. I plan to detail this motor as period correct as I can.

I got the Champ 8qt road race pan for it. Got a period looking fuel pump with integrated filter (anyone see a reason this might not fit?). Picked up a Flowkooler aluminum water pump, with driver's side outlet. I have started collecting the parts to have a vintage V belt drive setup (West Coast Cougar is a great source for these parts). I went with a modern mini starter, since it probably won't be seen anyway.

Alternator wise...I really wanted to run a correct 289 Hi po alternator, but I can't. I plan to run an electric AC compressor, and that requires 60 amps at idle just on it's own. Plus electric fan and other vehicle electronics. I need an alternator capable of over 100 amps at idle. So I went with the most "stock" looking super power alternator. This one is 280amps, with 180amps capable at idle. I am going to do my best to make it look like a vintage Hi Po alternator.


I should be getting back to working on the car soon.


https://i.ibb.co/Z1HWvNH9/1000009002.jpg (https://ibb.co/cXbDRxbq)

https://i.ibb.co/pjnZZ342/1000009008.jpg (https://ibb.co/s9tQQFsj)


https://i.ibb.co/B8FpCty/1000009007.jpg (https://ibb.co/j7sNrTy)

https://i.ibb.co/VYVBYvw1/1000009005.jpg (https://ibb.co/why6hKck)

https://i.ibb.co/S4yzR0Rs/1000009006.jpg (https://ibb.co/B539qjqz)

https://i.ibb.co/pv2ZMCNJ/1000009003.jpg (https://ibb.co/wNyCPD8M)

https://i.ibb.co/DD8FpRwN/1000009004.jpg (https://ibb.co/gMP8VRtG)

[Power Surge]

One other thing... not a part for the car. My brother and my girlfriend went halves on my birthday present. An Exoto die cast of CSX2299, in the configuration that I am replicating. My brother passed away two weeks later, so this is the last thing he ever gave me. I've put it in a nice case, and it's on my pegboard in the garage with the car now. Serving as inspiration for the build, as well as a reminder of him.


https://i.ibb.co/mrX2CB4v/1000008596.jpg (https://ibb.co/SDdMXxBQ)

[Power Surge]

Ooooh....this is a day I've been patiently waiting for! My Weber setup finally arrived!

Since I am doing a tribute build to CSX2299, I am trying to do everything I can to make the car pretty accurate to original. I had Jim Inglese build a Weber induction setup for my 347. This includes a correct COBRA FIA intake, Weber 48 IDF carbs, and linkage made to work with FFR's cable setup. Jim also offers reproduction Daytona FIA valve covers, as well as the FIA style water neck with integrated fuel log. Most FIA necks were driver side water outlet with 4 fuel line outlets. But 2299 only has two fuel outlets and then piggy backs the fuel lines on each side to both carbs. So I had Jim build the FIA water neck that same way, and also with a pass side water outlet to work with the FFR setup. This induction system is supposed to be ready to bolt and run, already setup for my 347.

Of course I had to take a pic with it sitting on the motor too :cool:

On the 347, I plan to paint it all black like original, and of course use the FIA valve covers. Right now I'm also working on setting up all the proper original V belt front accessories.

EDIT - well crap... seeing the pic of the water neck, it seems they built it with a driver's water outlet. Guess I'll have to contact Inglese and have them do another one :(


https://i.ibb.co/CsQPcBgY/1000009349.jpg (https://ibb.co/M57Bvnrt)

https://i.ibb.co/Fbtb4rYn/1000009350.jpg (https://ibb.co/99j9HD4G)

https://i.ibb.co/BHc5wLgB/1000009351.jpg (https://ibb.co/p6bBn23d)

https://i.ibb.co/d00Yp4cx/1000009352.jpg (https://ibb.co/XZZR5x4M)

https://i.ibb.co/gY2Yg6n/1000009353.jpg (https://ibb.co/V616B3K)

[PNWTim]

Sorry it was reversed but very cool nonetheless. I am sure he will make it right and I love the idea of a close to original tribute.

[Power Surge]

Sorry it was reversed but very cool nonetheless. I am sure he will make it right and I love the idea of a close to original tribute.

Thanks Tim. I really love originality in old cars. And it's fun to replicate that. I love researching those details, finding rare old parts, etc.

[Power Surge]

Got a little work done on the motor this weekend. Since I'm going for the vintage look, I had to paint the aluminum heads black, and did the timing cover as well. I used Eastwood ceramic 2 part engine black, with activator. Primed the heads first with the 2k engine primer. I resealed the timing cover, because one of my engine pet peeves is big ugly blue gaskets sticking out the side of the timing cover. So I got a nice black rubberized fiber timing gasket, and then trimmed it to the edges of the timing cover. I also got the Champ 8 qt road race pan installed. And while I was there, I installed the vintage looking mechanical fuel pump, with integrated filter. I used some of the extra paint to coat my outer tie rods, and then got them permanently installed. Oh, and also got the balancer installed.

I'm still waiting for all the front engine accessories and brackets to show up. I'm doing a vintage V belt setup, with original steel crank pulley and water pump pulley. Because I'm doing power steering, I am doing a late 60s factory power steering pump and bracket. And then for the alternator, I will be doing the iconic looking high mount hi-po alternator setup. I just have to mock it all up and make sure it all lines up. Since the FFR uses opposite side radiator inlet and outlet, I am using a Flowkooler aluminum water pump, but that requires modification to work with the stock style front engine parts. I'll post those mod pics up when it's finalized. And I ordered up some 3/4" valve cover spacers, to raise the FIA replica valve covers to clear the aluminum rockers.



https://i.ibb.co/cSqhhnyc/1000009397.jpg (https://ibb.co/jPtkkX8v)

https://i.ibb.co/zTC0Bcy5/1000009398.jpg (https://ibb.co/tTnWvf7h)

https://i.ibb.co/0RPmfgKx/1000009396.jpg (https://ibb.co/JwXmzfq9)

[8secDuster]

I'm not a 100% Purest when it comes to these cars. I truly understand building one as a "Resto-Mod".
It's the Perfect platform for doing so.
But that being said though, I am very guilty of leaning more towards the Stock Looking, Pushrod Motor side with them, so seeing your build plans and engine combo has me really looking forward to seeing it when you are done. I had a similar thought when I originally started this journey with mine, Viking Blue, thin stripes, roundels, but it ended up moving more towards "What if Shelby had to build x-number of production cars in order to race GT Class? That's what I want it to resemble" like Chrysler had to do with the Superbirds and Dodge Daytonas to race in NASCAR.

Looks Great Sal. Gonna be *****in when its done!

[burchfieldb]

That is looking great Sal and I hear you on those gaskets sticking out! Also, your dash should be here this week.

Brent

[Power Surge]

I'm not a 100% Purest when it comes to these cars. I truly understand building one as a "Resto-Mod".
It's the Perfect platform for doing so.
But that being said though, I am very guilty of leaning more towards the Stock Looking, Pushrod Motor side with them, so seeing your build plans and engine combo has me really looking forward to seeing it when you are done. I had a similar thought when I originally started this journey with mine, Viking Blue, thin stripes, roundels, but it ended up moving more towards "What if Shelby had to build x-number of production cars in order to race GT Class? That's what I want it to resemble" like Chrysler had to do with the Superbirds and Dodge Daytonas to race in NASCAR.

Looks Great Sal. Gonna be *****in when its done!

Dude your car came out perfect. You've got great vision and great build skills. And the end result shows!

Everyone has their vision for their build. That's the beauty of an FFR. For me, I like originality. My vision for my coupe, is to be brought back to the 60s when I look at my car. Obviously being a Gen3, the frame won't be very correct, but I'm going to try to make the rest of the car be as close to the original as I can make it. Having a specific car to pattern off of definitely helps. But then you have to decide WHICH version of the car to use, lol. I'm going for it's current state of being, which also helps because any new picture people take will be current to what I'm doing.

[Power Surge]

That is looking great Sal and I hear you on those gaskets sticking out! Also, your dash should be here this week.

Brent

Wooo! I think the interior of my car will be very accurate to how 2299 is. I'm excited for that challenge. :cool: