For eng. install: what position for the car?

[Grubester]

.
I believe I've seen some discussions in the past, but now I'm ready to DO IT.
I'm building a Mk4 (289-style) and have a BPE 347 w/TKX. The car is in rolling-chassis form, with a fair amount of aluminum installed. I've put engines in cars before, but there's so much forum experience here, I'm curious if there's a smart way to set up the car... such has having the rear end higher then the front, or? I'm inclined to not have it on jack stands and it seems like it could work with the car just sitting on the concrete floor. I'll be renting a hoist with extensible beam and legs and BP pre-installs steel plates on the heads for chain attach. I have one other person to help, but I've even done one or two installs (distant past) by myself.
Any ideas welcome! Thanks!

[michael everson]

I like to have the car rolling. I find it easier to roll the car rather than move the engine hoist. I do put the front wheels on long boards so that the chassis is high enough to clear the hoist once the weight is on the chassis and suspension.
Mike

[GoDadGo]

Mike Everson Knows These Cars From Stem To Stern!

I have found that his advice has always been Golden since he has built over 200 cars.
If you are fortunate enough to be able to hang then engine and trans from the ceiling or if you have an A-Frame the job is even easier.
The links below are laughable but useful videos of us installing the driveline in The Redbone Roadster not once but twice.

First Installation
https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4

Block Debacle
https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk

Second Installation:
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

Good luck, Be Careful, Wear Closed Toe Shoes & Watch Your Pinkies!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Tail high, front low but make sure that it's high enough for the hoist to roll under. A leveler is invaluable and makes it a one man job.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1942.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_1943.jpg

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Dang, You Got Sir Jeffski Chiming In Too!
These Guys Are The Jedi Masters!

[CraigS]

See that engine levelor in Jeff's pic? That is key. When you look for one buy a better one w/ bearings. Use bearing grease on them and also on the entire length of the threaded rod. Being able to change the engine angle from about level to 40 degrees trans down makes the job almost easy. My first time I was surprised. From cranking the engine/trans up off the floor to having it sitting on the mounts was <10minutes. By myself. I couldn't believe it. I didn't have a hoist, just an eye on the ceiling so I also leave the car on wheels so I can roll it.

[cv2065]

As Jeff said, the leveler is key. Don't buy the Harbor Freight stuff. I used one from there on the first build and even with greasing, I couldn't get it to rotate smoothly and the handle shot off somewhere in the garage. Still never found that thing. Use this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKHUUO?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1

[Mike.Bray]

I've had my engine in & out 2-3 times and learned a little.

As others said, a good leveler is a must. The first one I had I spent more time fighting it than installing the engine. This one was golden, and you can remove the crank handle to adjust it with an impact and socket. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w41036

The engine/trans combo is incredible heavy and you'll find trying to move it precisely very difficult. Much easier to put the car on wheel dollies and move it instead. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/2500-lb-capacity-professional-steel-vehicle-dollies-2-piece-58394.html

Using wheel dollies also raises the car so the hoist can fit under it.

Make sure you have the motor mounts on the correct side, don't ask me how I know this.

For a short deck SBF and with a good leveler there's no reason it should take more than 30 minutes to install it.

You got this.

[MaxVmo]

I followed the advice on this forum as well. I bought a Summit hoist and leveler, had the rear end elevated, and went carefully and slowly. I installed it myself without major issue except for the metal piece on the rear right side of the transmission which was blocking my install by about 1/2 inch. Sawsall cut it off and in it went.

[Grubester]

MaxVmo mentioned a piece on the rear of the transmission that was blocking the installation and needed to be cut off. This is a bit of a mystery to me in that I bought this 347 and tkx from blueprint engines and they knew it was for a Mk4 roadster. Doesn't that mean that the transmission should be a fit without extra modification?

[JMD]

Maybe they did, maybe they didn't. I had to cut mine off after the install but recommend doing it before. Check out my post about it here to see what they're talking about:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49095-John-in-KC-Roadster-Build-Thread&p=561481&viewfull=1#post561481

[cv2065]

MaxVmo mentioned a piece on the rear of the transmission that was blocking the installation and needed to be cut off. This is a bit of a mystery to me in that I bought this 347 and tkx from blueprint engines and they knew it was for a Mk4 roadster. Doesn't that mean that the transmission should be a fit without extra modification?

I didn't have this issue with the 427/TKX combo, so the assembly must shift a bit and cause interference with that combo. I did have to modify the engine mounts for the DART block. I guess that is the point that there really are no layups with these builds. Tremec has these transmissions going into a lol of different cars and may or may not have some interference with our kits.

[AndrewIdaho]

Maybe they did, maybe they didn't. I had to cut mine off after the install but recommend doing it before. Check out my post about it here to see what they're talking about:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?49095-John-in-KC-Roadster-Build-Thread&p=561481&viewfull=1#post561481

John.

I expect to receive my 302SBF with TKX from Forte in a few days. If I need to trim the TKX, I figure it would be easier to do before installing the engine and transmission. I have two questions:
a. In looking at your pictures, I am having trouble visualizing which tab on the transmission needs trimming (it might be clearer once I receive the engine/transmission).
b. Where is the tab interfering with the frame? Note that I am using the Wilwood Electronic parking brake so I have cut off the mounting structure for the mechanical brake so I can seal the hole in the floor.

Thanks, Andrew

[JMD]

That's pretty much the same combo I have, Andrew. The tab is a small piece of aluminum that sticks out of the passenger side of the transmission. It's a mounting point for some other application, but not needed on our cars. If you have cut out the parking brake bracket it may not interfere, but I would still recommend cutting it off to make more room in the transmission tunnel.

Look at the before and after pics and find the metal piece that is missing in the 'after' pic. The pics are taken from the vantage point of looking down on the transmission tunnel with the frame on the right being the passenger side. The metal tab getting cut off is sticking out the side of the transmission just above the fill plug.

[Derald Rice]

I use a harbor freight leveler and I have had it for 20+ years.

One mod that I made was to throw away the handle and double nut the threaded shaft....
And then I use an impact wrench to rotate the shaft.....

[AndrewIdaho]

That's pretty much the same combo I have, Andrew. The tab is a small piece of aluminum that sticks out of the passenger side of the transmission. It's a mounting point for some other application, but not needed on our cars. If you have cut out the parking brake bracket it may not interfere, but I would still recommend cutting it off to make more room in the transmission tunnel.

Look at the before and after pics and find the metal piece that is missing in the 'after' pic. The pics are taken from the vantage point of looking down on the transmission tunnel with the frame on the right being the passenger side. The metal tab getting cut off is sticking out the side of the transmission just above the fill plug.

Great - Thanks for the clarification.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Cut the tab, used a leveler, had the car on its wheels. Used daughter as a spotter & the Coyote/TKO went in fully dressed with shorty headers.

[Ducky2009]

Mine was a roller. I used a motorcycle lift under the front 4" frame cross tube, lifting just enough to allow the engine hoist to roll under the frame. As Jeff said, a leveler is a must.

[Mbufford]

I got a Coyote in by myself with a leveler and the car sitting flat on wheel Dolly’s. Wasn’t easy, but I got it in without breaking too much. If it can be done with a big-*** Coyote, it can be done with just about anything.

[Cobraman]

First thing invite your friends and family it always makes for good times. I stayed simple no leveler just good basic and common sense. Raised rear of car 18" off the ground no tires or wheels used cribbing. kept front low as possible so hoist could roll under easily. This allowed me to keep engine much more level without using a leveler. This really isn't about if you can do it yourself or how fast just do it safely. I had 3 helpers 1 working the hoist 3 of us guiding it in place everyone had their job to execute and 5 min it was done just some minor jiggling to get the bolts in transmission mount. 215807215808215809