Dave and Sheri Build a 30th Anniversary MkV - Coil Covers, Heater Hose

[Dave Howard]

It was 2012 when I built my first FFR MkIV. There were only a handful of Coyote powered FFRs at that time and I shovelled one into the car and have loved it ever since. Had to over come some build issues with the Coyote that are normal now in build procedures and other peoples build threads. Since completing the car Ive alway wanted to build another. In 2012, the Canadian $ was slightly about the US $ so it was a good time to buy. Since then, the $C hasn't been as good. Imagine taking your build cost, multiplying it by 1.38 (exchange rate) and then another 1.13 (tax at border). So I've waited for a "better" time. Can't wait any longer. We've been retired 2 years and need a project. Almost bought a MkIV last summer but caught wind of the new MKV and the possibility of the 30th Anniversary Edition. We waited and for good reasons. Sheri and I are making the trip to FFR to pick up our kit on June 24. Here's the build plan in a nut shell.

- 30 Anniversary MkV
- Aluminator 5.0l. 9.5 to 1 compression.
- Supercharged (Whipple of Roush). Yeah yeah I know. We don't need any more power. Our Gen 1 was dyno'ed at 490 HP with a mild custom tune.
- Tremec TKX
- Mcleod twin disc clutch
- Electric parking brake (eliminate that handle sticking up)
- Will source a heater/defroster once the kit is home. FFR only offer the heater/AC used in the Coupe. We don't need/want AC.

I expect the build to be straight forward other than the Supercharger. We will try to document the build as we go, but don't want to spend a BUNCH of time on the computer.

[Jim1855]

Cool, congrats on the new car.
HP is good!
Jim

[Aleinsteingenius]

We are building a retirement Mark V as well. Just not the 30th Anniversary version. We look forward to following your build. We have chosen to make ours ridiculously overpowered as well except we are using a naturally aspirated Godzilla. I figure giant me sitting at the back of the car will offset the weight on the front lol.

[Dave Howard]

Sheri and I made the trip to Wareham on the 24th to pick up our kit. As always, the FFR team were the best. They helped us secure a trailer at the last minute after the one I had secured weeks ago with U-Haul fell through. We loaded up in the +100F sun and were on our way again by midday. Lots of "thumbs up" from fellow motorist on the interstate. Home by the 25th and immediately started hauling boxes down to the "tinker" room in the basement. Sheri and I were able to remove the body with little effort. It appears to be more flexible that the MkIV I build in 2012. And the fit of panels looks to have improved. Especially the doors. The curved part that mates up with the dash is 100% better. I employed the help of a few neighbours to move the frame onto stands in the garage. A policeman, a building contractor and one of Sheri's colleagues from the fire department. It was a pretty easy move.
I've done an inventory of the items brought back from Wareham. There is a short list of backorder items as expected, and I am still waiting for the "Canadian Compleltion" components to arrive. Heres a few observations and comparisons with our 2012 MkIV so far.
- The body appears to be far superior. Fit has improved. Construction appears to be with glass mat not cut strand. The underside of the body is quite smooth. The raised glue seams of the body panels are minimal.
- The frame of course is totally different. I really haven't had the chance to look at it closely.
- Many mounting bracket are now stainless steel compared to carbon steel in the other build which required powder coating. I will look at knocking down the sharp edges from the laser cutting and have a go at polishing the pieces that are visible.
- The frame is a special bronze color but some of the components (sway bars) are shiny black. I'm contemplating having these redone at a local shop to match the frame color.
- As with my last build, black steel fasteners for non critical components will be swapped with equivalent stainless steel.
- I am going to attempt to nickel plate other fasteners such as the suspension high strength bolts.
- I went with the FFR supplied power steering for this build. The pump is nice and compact.
- The ball and socket connections for the header to side pipe is going to be a game changer when it comes time to level and align the side pipes. NO more wedges. I have headers from Stainless Headers on my 2012. They are a work of art.
- The stitching on the leather seats and door panels looks amazing. We haven't decided on a body color yet, but the stitching has me thinking.
- FFR now supplies many item that I had to by through the aftermarket suppliers for my 2012 build. Self cancelling turn signals, drop trunk, door panels to name a few.

Looking forward to the arrival of the rest of the components. Still need to put in the order for the power train. Once I have that I can determine what route for forced induction. Not planning on much building through the summer months while the weather is nice.

[Reddrig]

Looking forward to following. I have started my anniversary build already, did you receive your wheels? If you haven’t did they give you any information on a time frame? Thanks

[Dave Howard]

Looking forward to following. I have started my anniversary build already, did you receive your wheels? If you haven’t did they give you any information on a time frame? Thanks

No wheels yet. they might be part of the completion kit.

[Dave Howard]

I finished the inventory on the weekend for the parts I have so far. It was pounding down rain so I pulled out the Dremel tool and de-burred the aluminum castings from the rear IRS knuckle. Cleaned up nice. Next, I broke into the POR15 to coat the toe bearings. I store the part used POR15 in a ziplock bag with a container of desiccant from the marina (used when storing boats for the winter). This keeps the paint from going hard between uses. Also had a go with the polishing wheel on my 230V pedestal grinder. WOW. That didn't take much to bring the stainless steel to a gleaming shine. I think this is going to be an anal-retentive build.
Why can't I download pictures?

[rickster991]

Good luck! I’m moving along in mine as well…

[Higgybulin]

Good luck!! I will be building an MK5 for a customer, should be here by the end of July! How long did your Transport Canada letter take to get back to you?
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

The letter from TC took about 10 days. The letter was professional. The email it came in must have been from a car guy. He sounded excited for the build.


Good luck!! I will be building an MK5 for a customer, should be here by the end of July! How long did your Transport Canada letter take to get back to you?
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

215947215948215947215948https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216157&d=1752154736
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216156&d=1752154736Why can I download pictures from my phone but not the MacBook or iPad.
oh well. The body on the MkV is very flexible and lite. Sheri and I grabbed it by the sides under the doors and easily removed it. It’s hanging from a simple jig made from 2x3s. The garage is tight. I have an outdoor gas fireplace project on the go. The frame is made. The cement board cut and the see through fireplace unit bought. This should all be going outside and installed in 2 weeks. Just in time for delivery of the completion kit. It has most of the suspension components, so I’m inching to get started. Im hoping the hard copy assembly manual comes too. I’ve ordered the heated seat kit. It will be here in a week. The seats are made very well. It looks like I won’t needs to remove hog rings to install the heat pads. ����

[Dave Howard]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216154&d=1752154736
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216155&d=1752154736the deburred castings mentioned earlier. I'll cut the bit off each after I get the assembly manual.

[Higgybulin]

Keep us posted!!
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216150&d=1752154736


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216151&d=1752154736https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216153&d=1752154736 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216152&d=1752154736

I had to tape the rear hubs I previously painted to protect them while removing the studs. Then, as per the FFR manual, I used a hammer and shop vise. They came out easily. The new studs have a round shoulder and needed a little rework with the file….and a touch up with POR15. As stated earlier, an open can of POR15 can last a long time when placed in a ziplock with desiccant.

[Dave Howard]

216102216104216105
216133216130216134216131216132https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216146&d=1752154736 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216147&d=1752154736
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216148&d=1752154736
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216149&d=1752154736
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216145&d=1752154510

I'm still waiting for the completion kit. Most of the suspension components are part of that shipment. We were able to cut off the bits from the rear knuckles using a hacksaw. My dad has passed away but I could hear him say “let the saw do the cutting” with every stoke. It didn’t take long and the ends cleaned up nicely after a few minutes with a file.
Prior to clear coating the pieces, I used some Lloyds Aluminum Magic to remove the tarnish . The picture shows the cleaned knuckle compared to the original out of the box. This stuff works really well and quickly. Wash up with water, air dry and an acetone wipe before clear coat. he hubs were then assembled and fasteners torqued to speck.
One box in the recycle….many, many more to go.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Photos all say "Invalid attachment specified".

Here are a couple of tutorials:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48641-Posting-Pictures-a-small-tutorial

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts

Jeff

[Dave Howard]

Thanks Jeff. Dave Hodgkins reached out as well. I think I have it now. Let me know if this is any better
Photos all say "Invalid attachment specified".

Here are a couple of tutorials:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?48641-Posting-Pictures-a-small-tutorial

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18962-How-to-use-the-Image-Gallery-to-embed-pictures-in-posts

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Photos look great. Looks like your a full go.

[Dave Howard]

Photos look great. Looks like your a full go.

Thanks. I think we have it figured out. Looking forward to “full go” shortly

[Ducky2009]

Congtras on retirement and enjoy your build.

[Dave Howard]

216362216363216364https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216354&d=1752513620https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216355&d=1752513620https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216356&d=1752513620

We got a small shipment of back ordered parts, including the front 2048 bushings for the centre section. That allowed us to focus on it. The socket head screws provided were a little too big to fit the recessed holes in the adapter plate. I took a little off each bolt using my drill and a file in the vise.
We gave the center section aluminum cover a quick clean with the Aluminum Magic before a clear cote.

[cv2065]

216362216363216364

We got a small shipment of back ordered parts, including the from 2048 bushings for the centre section. That allowed us to focus on it. The sucker head screws provided were a little too big to fit the recessed holes in the adapter plate. I took a little off each bolt using my drill and a file in the vise.
We gave the center section aluminum cover a quick clean with the Aluminum Magic before a clear cote.

Did you have the correct cap screws for the adaptor? I wouldn't think you'd have to sheer anything off the bolt to make it fit flush.

[Dave Howard]

216365https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216357&d=1752513620
I,m not a big fan of the look of zinc chromate hardware. so I decided to give it a good with DYI nickel plating. First, the zinc chromate coating on the provided bolts was removed in a media blaster with fine glass abrasive. It came off easily.

216366https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216360&d=1752513931
Next, the raw steel was buffed to a bright shine.

216367https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216372&d=1752516631
Each piece was cleaned with acetone then a hot bath in cleaner provided in the Caswell nickel plating kit. Then a 30 minute dunk in the nickel solution at 185F.

216368216369216368216369https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216373&d=1752516631https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216361&d=1752514007And the final product. With all the mounting hardware for the center section coated, it was time to install it. A few ratchet straps and the floor jack and I was able to wrestle it into position while minimizing any damage by covering the frame with old towels. It was a challenge to get the unit in place and line up the bolt holes. My borescope came in handy and one by one, the hardware slid in place and rear fasteners caught thread. I’m happy with how it looks. I’ll continue the plating process for other suspension hardware.
216370216371https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216358&d=1752513792https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216359&d=1752513792
Another big box gone to recycle.

[Dave Howard]

Yes, got the correct cap screws. I,m assuming they are off shore and the quality control off a little.

Did you have the correct cap screws for the adaptor? I wouldn't think you'd have to sheer anything off the bolt to make it fit flush.

[danmas]

Wow! Things look fabulous. I’m going to enjoy following your build….

[Higgybulin]

Ok, that looks like the Princess Auto sand blaster in your photo....How did you get that thing to work?!! I have tried a few mod's that I have seen on youtube, but still doesnt do a great job.
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

Wow! Things look fabulous. I’m going to enjoy following your build….
Thanks. Looking forward to getting all the parts and buying some 3rd party goodies.

[Dave Howard]

Yes, the media blaster is from PA. I sealed the box when I assembled it. Installed a bright LED light connected to a switch. It also powers a plug for a shop vac. The shop vac draws air out of the cabinet through a cyclone made from two 5 gallon pails. I put a piece of tape across the air inlet port on the back of the cabinet to control the negative pressure in the cabinet. I have a 18 cfm compressor. Air goes through a moisture and oil eliminator. I use a large diameter hose to supply the cabinet. I installed the mod at the bottom of the cabinet to regulate air in with the media supply to the gun. It works well with glass bead but not so good with heavier media.
Ok, that looks like the Princess Auto sand blaster in your photo....How did you get that thing to work?!! I have tried a few mod's that I have seen on youtube, but still doesnt do a great job.
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

The seats for the 30th Anniversary roadster are very nice soft leather with stitching on the seat and back (matching the inner door covers). Today I installed the heating pads for heated seats. It’s a must in our part of the world and used quite often in the 2012 MkIV when out in the morning and evenings. The installation of the heating pads was quite easy. There was no need to remove any hog rings. The seat bottom can be removed from the frame making it easy to handle.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216382&d=1752610928
The leather is wrapped around the foam and glued to the underside. I coaxed it free along the back edge of the seat to give access.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216383&d=1752610928
The heating pad slid in and backing on the 2-way tape removed to hold the pad in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216386&d=1752610989
I then used some spray contact adhesive to secure the leather to the foam again.

The leather on the seat back is held in place by long plastic U shaped clips that are sewn to the front and back leather.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216389&d=1752611048

Undoing the clip for the back leather exposed the clip for the front leather. The pad was slid between the leather and the foam and held by the 2-way tape. The clips are re-secured and “voila”. Heated seats installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216390&d=1752611048 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216399&d=1752611181

[Dave Howard]

Still waiting for the Canadian Completion kit which includes most of the suspension components and brakes. So its been a hard go finding stuff to do on the roadster build. We were able to put together a couple of sub-assemblies.

We went with the FFR supplied power steering rack. It’s nicely powder coated and I cleaned the aluminum section before hitting it with a coat of clear. The original bushings pushed out easy enough and the FFR supplied slid in place. The stainless steel mounting bracket was given a quick polish on the pedestal buffer. We also used the FFR supplied outer tie rod ends. The ones we have on the 2012 build have 53,000 kilometers on them and are still tight. I cleaned then with acetone and gave them a coat of POR15 before installing and adjusting to the spec provided in the manual.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217189&d=1754314166
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217190&d=1754314166
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217191&d=1754314166

Next, I was able to layout the dash and install all the gauges and most of the switches. The carbon fiber dash comes as a blank. FFR provides a template with gauge, switch and steering column locations for a standard pattern.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217181&d=1754309852
I have this arrangement on the 2012 and wanted the 427 competition dash look for the 30 Anniversary builld. We still used the template provided as it helped to locate the steering column and the Amps/fuel/oil pressure gauges. The great folks at FFR informed us to use the 3-4 locating holes for the steering column for the MkV build. The 427 competition layout was found online.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217182&d=1754309852
I eyeballed the location of gauges and switches from the photo found on the internet. After several attempts drawing the pattern on packing paper, I settled on a final layout and transferred the gauge and switch locations onto the FFR template using a spring punch, then drilled an 1/8" hole at each.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217183&d=1754309852
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217184&d=1754309852

I now had a template for the carbon dash. Locations of the gauge/switch centers were drilled into the dash. I then used a step drill for the smaller holes and hole saws for the gauges. As per the FFR instructions, the smaller gauge openings had to be enlarged with a drum sander on the drill press. After ensuring everything fit, the dash and glove box front were given an acetone wipe down and shoot with rattle can 2K clear. I wasn't happy with the finish. LOTS of orange peel. My fault. So the parts where given a wet sand with 1,500 an sprayed again. Much better and the carbon fiber really came to life. Switches were placed in authentic loacations rather than the bottom drop down section. This area was used to mount the switches for the heated seats and will be used for the heater/fan controls and the electric parking brake switch. I did not purchase the FFR heater as it included AC which I didn't want.

[Dave Howard]

additional photos
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217185&d=1754309932https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217187&d=1754309932https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=217188&d=1754309932

[cv2065]

Dash looks great. I almost used a clear as well but decided against it (own preference). Did you check the alignment of the steering wheel hole? My template offset it against the column, so I didn't use it.

[Dave Howard]

Dash looks great. I almost used a clear as well but decided against it (own preference). Did you check the alignment of the steering wheel hole? My template offset it against the column, so I didn't use it.

I hope the clear holds up and doesn't get marked with use. Time will tell. The beauty of these projects is the diversity and individuality of each project.
I did check the steering column hole alignment. it was dead center on the frame where the column bearing mounts. Im not sure which bezel I'll use around the hole. I'll figure that out once the column is in and the self cancelling turn signal mechanism installed.

[cv2065]

I have a bezel for the steering shaft hole from Mike Everson you can have if you just pay shipping. I didn’t end up using it.

[Dave Howard]

I have a bezel for the steering shaft hole from Mike Everson you can have if you just pay shipping. I didn’t end up using it.

PM sent

[Straversi]

Congrats on the new project. Look forward to following along.
-Steve

[Dave Howard]

While waiting for the completion kit to arrive, I took the time to polish up the radiator and fan shroud from Breeze. I used a fan shroud on the 2012 MkIV build and was glad to see there was a version available for the MkV. Rivet nuts were clamped into the shroud and the FFR supply fan installed using supplied stainless hardware.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218725&d=1757718421

[Dave Howard]

The completion kit finally arrived. FFR was waiting for wheels before sending the kit. We convinced them to send the kit without wheels so we could get going with the build. Then, the shipment got held up in customs. The Canadian Government had implemented a new system for paying duties. It took some time for the importer to get signed up. Thanks Ryan for the MANY hours on hold to get that sorted out. Inventory completed and parts started going on the frame. Starting with the FFR supplied power steering rack I had previously prepped.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218726&d=1757718421
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218730&d=1757718751
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218731&d=1757718751

[Dave Howard]

A little bit of prep for the front suspension before installing parts. I used a grinder with a thin cutting disc to cut most of the way through the ABS sensor rings on the hubs. A little tap with a chisel to split the ring and they came off easily. The hubs were given a coat of POR 15.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218727&d=1757718421
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218728&d=1757718421

Next, the aluminum lower control arms were cleaned up with Aluminum Magic, dried, acetone wiped and given two coats of 2X clear. Came out very nice. The installation was straight forward as per the FFR instructions. The LCA mounting tabs needed a little persuasion to spread them to accept the bosses. I used a piece of ready rod with nuts and washers to move the metal slightly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218732&d=1757718751
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218733&d=1757718751

The double adjustable Koni coil overs are a very nice touch. They went together easily and mounted without any issues. The stainless spacers for the top and bottom mounts were given a few minutes on the pedestal grinder/polisher. Another anally-retentive touch no one will see.

The 30th Anniversary Edition Wilwood brakes are black. Wilwood make a quality product. Instructions are clear. Rotor hats are held to the rotors with a number of stainless bolts. Using red locktite is more than adequate to hold them. Unlike my last build, I decided to safety wire the hat bolts. No special tools required. I took a few hours and proved to be a little tough on my arthritic hands.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218734&d=1757718840
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218735&d=1757718840

The 30th Anniversary edition also come with sway bars. A little overkill I think. These cars are light and incredibly stiff. Again, the installation was straight forward.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218774&d=1757727067

[Dave Howard]

Upper and lower control arms were given the Aluminum Magic treatment and sprayed with 2X clear. Control arms and toe adjustment arms were assembled with a smear of anti-sieze on threads. No persuasion was required to install. I had installed the center section earlier. This part of the build goes quickly. Like a big Mechano set. Everything fit perfect. The CV axles required a little tap with a lead weighted soft hammer to seat them properly. No mods at this point. I lucked out with the frame sitting level on the jack stands. I used a dial angle gauge to roughly set the camber. Haven't tackled the toe in yet. Have to give some thought about that.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218740&d=1757718981
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218746&d=1757719297
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218750&d=1757719377
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218751&d=1757719377
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=218752&d=1757719377

[2nd2none]

I think your steering column hole will need to be modified if using the FFR supplied turn signals

[Dave Howard]

The fuel tank went in as per the assembly instructions. One issue I had with my 2012 build was a torn filler neck gasket. This happened about a year after the car was completed. Discovered it from the gas leak after filling the tank. I replaced it with a Ford OEM part and have never had an issue since. Therefore, on this build, i bought and installed a Ford gasket to start with. The sending unit was installed but I didn't have the rest of the fuel system when the tank was installed in the car. I have since received those parts and will be tackling the fuel system after aluminum panel installation is complete. I am using a Holley 12-345 Sniper fuel pump, an Evil Energy 100 micro filter and an Aeromotive 100 psi fuel pressure regulator. Fuel supply and return lines are both 3/8". I am using PTFE hose with stainless steel and black nylon covering.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219403&d=1758931192
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219401&d=1758931192
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219435&d=1758940861

[Dave Howard]

The emergency brake cables have been attached to the calipers using the FFR supplied adaptors for Wilwood braking system. The cables were fished through the frame and through the 2 hole in the transmission tunnel. I am not using the FFR supplied brake handle. I do not care for the mounting location and find the looks of the handle on the transmission tunnel next to the gear shifter doesn't do it for me. I have purchased an E-Stop Emergency Brake system from 520 Speedworks. Ill be documenting the installation once the components arrive.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219402&d=1758931192
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219407&d=1758931296

[Dave Howard]

The Wilwood pedal box was installed with 3 Wilwood master cylinder assemblies. As per the FFR instructions, switch mounts were installed for the clutch and brake pedals. FFR supplied switches were installed. 5/8" was removed from the threaded end of all master cylinders. I am installing a Coyote based engine (Aluminator), so an addition bracket was installed for the clutch travel switch. I am still waiting for the Control Pack, therefore the clutch travel switch hasn't been installed yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219405&d=1758931296

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219406&d=1758931296
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219418&d=1758940552

[Dave Howard]

The steering components were fitted and the turn signal assembly installed and aligned. This required the installation of the first aluminum anodized panel - the front for the left footbox. The panel had to be bent some to get it past the various frame tubes. This resulted in the first powder coat scratch. Once in place, the rivet location was determined. There are a few tight spots to take into consideration. Another thing to consider is all the other panels that will be in contact with the front panel. Specifically the outter front panel. The manual has this being installed later in the process. I elected to install in now and drill it, the front panel and the frame at the same time. I used a silver Sharpie to make hole locations, and put a piece of duct tape on my drill chuck to protect the anodized finish. The inside rivets are not installed at this time to allow for the footbox inside panels to be installed at a later time. The lower shaft was a good length and did not require any modification. The middle shaft had to be cut to 12.5" in length. The upper steering shaft needed a good going over with emery cloth so it would slide smoothly into the 1' DD shaft. The other end of the upper steering shaft as needed some refinement for the steering wheel to slide on. The turn signal assembly was installed and the upper steering shaft slid into place. I've included a picture to illustrate how much out of center the initial set up was. Several washers were used as shims under the top pillow block bearing.
There are several steps in the build that are finicky. The steering/turn signal installation being one. Not complaining. I took me all day.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219430&d=1758940806
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219420&d=1758940552
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219423&d=1758940674
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219424&d=1758940674
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219426&d=1758940734

[Dave Howard]

Aluminum panels for the footboxes were prepped for installation. I do not have the control pack for the 5.0 Aluminator yet, so the left footbox inside panels have not been riveted in place yet. Also, both left and right outer panels have not be riveted yet to allow access to the inside of the footboxes for further assembly. I used painters tape around the edges of some panels as I moved them into position. This prevented further powder coat scratches and protected the anodized finish. I installed the right footbox outer front now. The left and right cockpit transmission side were also positioned and the front mounting holes drilled through the back tab of the inside panels. Again, easier to drill those now and have them line up with the footbox inside panels. I had to purchase another set of cleco fasteners. The ones I had for my 2012 build are being used by my son on his build in British Columbia. Im not sure how people can get through the panel installation without clecos. I used clear exterior grade silicone caulk to seal the panels before riveting. Messy sh*t, but cleans up with acetone if you get it before it dries.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219428&d=1758940734
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219432&d=1758940806
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219577&d=1759149454
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219574&d=1759149394

[Dave Howard]

A few more footbox panel assembly photos.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219431&d=1758940806https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219576&d=1759149454
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219575&d=1759149454

[Sharris2]

We're you able to find a color match for the frame and the panels for touch ups?

[Dave Howard]

We're you able to find a color match for the frame and the panels for touch ups?

FFR provided me the colour code for the powder coat. I'm heading to the local auto parts store today to see if they can make a rattlecan with the same colour. Fingers crossed.

[Sharris2]

I reached out to ffr for it but haven't heard back; can you message it to me?
Thanks Scott

[Dave Howard]

I reached out to ffr for it but haven't heard back; can you message it to me?
Thanks Scott

message sent

[PNWTim]

The Wilwood pedal box was installed with 3 Wilwood master cylinder assemblies. As per the FFR instructions, switch mounts were installed for the clutch and brake pedals. FFR supplied switched were installed. 5/8" was removed from the threaded end of all master cylinders. I am installing a Coyote based engine (Aluminator), so an addition bracket was installed for the clutch travel switch. I am still waiting for the Control Pack, therefore the clutch travel switch hasn't been installed yet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219405&d=1758931296

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219406&d=1758931296
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219418&d=1758940552

Hi Dave - nice work so far, I just read through your thread. A quick question on your switch install. It looks like you have installed two brake switches on the underside of the pedal box (one on the brake pedal and one on the clutch pedal). I don't believe you need one on the clutch as the switch that comes with the control pack will address the "lock out" command for the ECM. Maybe the Aluminator is different? You commented there is a clutch travel switch so perhaps I am incorrect. Either way, thought I would comment and I look forward to following your build.

[Dave Howard]

Hi Dave - nice work so far, I just read through your thread. A quick question on your switch install. It looks like you have installed two brake switches on the underside of the pedal box (one on the brake pedal and one on the clutch pedal). I don't believe you need one on the clutch as the switch that comes with the control pack will address the "lock out" command for the ECM. Maybe the Aluminator is different? You commented there is a clutch travel switch so perhaps I am incorrect. Either way, thought I would comment and I look forward to following your build.

Hello and thanks for the comment. Clutch switch/brake switch You’re right. I don’t have the control pack yet which contains the clutch switch needed. My Gen 1 Coyote didn’t come with a special switch. I’ll be removing the one in photo.

[Dave Howard]

I've deviated from the FFR assembly manual sequence a little. The next step is supposed to be the installation of cockpit aluminum. I started to drill the back wall of the cockpit and realized I should mount the trunk front piece under the 90 degree lip. I didn't want to block access for running fuel/brake/electrical systems so decide to stop with the panels and shifted focus. I started with the front brakes. The stainless steel mounts for the brake line adaptor to AN brake line were gives a few minutes on the polishing wheel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219763&d=1759613965
Next, the mounting location was determined and the front wheel upper inside splash panel was modified to allow the brake line adaptor to stick through.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219764&d=1759613965
I elected to install these panels permanently now so as not to interfere with the running of brake lines and wiring harness.
The mounts for the brake line adaptors were riveted in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219766&d=1759613965
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219767&d=1759614036

[Dave Howard]

Next was the tedious task of bending and installing the front brake lines. Although its not hard, it just a bunch of measuring measuring measuring before committing to a bend. I used a length of copper wire to determine the location and angle of each bend. Then, used the wire as a template for each bend. I started with the section between the left and right brake. Once completed, the line was secured to the frame with stainless steel holders and a flare wrench used to snug up the connections.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219769&d=1759614036
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219768&d=1759614036
The route from the left brake master cylinder to the left front brake was tackled next. Much like my 2012 MkIV build I came through the footbox front under the 1.5" tube. The line passes through a rubber grommet for protection. All but the last bend and flare at the T were performed on the bench.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219807&d=1759669819
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219770&d=1759614036
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219771&d=1759614109

[Dave Howard]

The rear brake lines were an easier run. I changed the fitting on the right master cylinder to allow me to come straight back, before bending 90 degrees under the steering DD shaft.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219770&d=1759614036
The transition of this line from inside the cockpit to outside is at the top of the transmission tunnel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219775&d=1759614161
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219776&d=1759614161
This panel will be modified later as the hydraulic line to the clutch external slave cylinder, and the chassis wiring harness will also transition at this spot. The rear brake line runs along the bottom of the transmission top tube on the left side. Fuels lines and chassis wiring harness will also run in this location. Once at the back, under the trunk, the line was T'ed and short runs made to left and right with pig tails at the end. Polished stainless steel mounts for the hose adaptors were installed and the rear brake connections secured.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219774&d=1759614109
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219773&d=1759614109

[Dave Howard]

I got a start on the fuel system. I'm using a larger fuel pump (Holley 12-345) to supply the blown Aluminator I'm using for power. The filter was upgraded and installed in the same general location as outlined in the manual. I haven't done compression fuel fittings in a while and messed up my first attempt. Im using PTFE line and I twisted one connection so it had to be redone. The fittings are reusable. They require a new ferrule. The pressure regulation will be mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment. I'll get to that later. I had to order another length of fuel line for the return line. My original calculation for what I needed was off. The return line will be run from the fuel pump forward and terminated at the regulator at a later date.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219777&d=1759614161

[Dave Howard]

For my 2012 MKkIV build I used Dynamat Supreme for sound deadening. It was pain to install after the car was complete. On this build I am using a similar but cheaper product called Kilmat. I am using 80 mil thick sheets. I've started to do the inside of the footboxes while they are open and exposed. Easy to measure. Easy to cut. The Kilmat sheets are embossed with 1/2" x 1/4" rectangles. Easy to install. I used a set of rollers to smooth out the finished product.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=219778&d=1759614161

[cv2065]

I used the Kil Mat as well. I liked working with the smaller pieces versus a roll on the ThermoTec. Also saved material and money as very little waste. Looking good Dave!

[rponfick]

If you don't screw up a few of your brake line bends, you are making the rest of us look bad. Besides, then you don't have anything to hang on your "wall of shame" in your garage.
Ralph

[Higgybulin]

Dave, you didnt mention anything about putting together your steering shafts(unless I missed it), any issues?
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

Dave, you didnt mention anything about putting together your steering shafts(unless I missed it), any issues?
Higgy

My post #45 talked about the steering shaft. I did candy coat it a bit. Just another one of those finicky steps. I did have to shorten the middle shaft, and I had to spend a bunch of time with emery cloth to get the top shaft to slide into the 1" DD, and for the steering wheel to slide onto the other end. I kept all the U joints slack until the entire system was assembled then started at the rack and pinion en to adjust the correct position and tighten. Them worked up to the next one an so forth up to the end. The bearings were not snugged down until the tyrn indicator was adjusted. The pillow block needed a few washer shims to get the steering shaft in the center of the canceling turn signal switch. Once the turn signal was done I went back and gave enverything a final tighten....then checked the turn signal again.

[Higgybulin]

Gotcha, I was just out in the shop and realized the middle shaft was 2 inches too long. That will make it tough to put together!!!
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

The manual calls for the cockpit rear aluminum panel to be installed and to install floors and interior panels. It also calls for the trunk front panel to be placed on top of the rear cockpit panel 90 degree lip. I'm planning to put it under the lip.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220138&d=1760404897
Therefore, I've elected to hold off with cockpit panels until system are completed in the rear of the car. Its easier to access down into the car then it is to access up into the car from the floor. The brake lines have been run and secured. The brake system hasn't been filled and bled yet as I am waiting for a different set of master cylinder reservoirs. I find the FFR supplied reservoirs and mounting brackets are too big and bulky. I want 3. One each for the front and rear brakes and one for the clutch. Mounting locations are limited and access is almost impossible once the body is on. Therefore, I purchased a triple reservoir unit from Scotts Hotrods. The reservoirs volume is less than the FFR units but comparable to the plastic units supplied by Wilwood. I think I'll mount them in front of the left footbox on the outside of the angled tube. I should be able to access the tops once the body is on.

So, I had to finish the fuel system routing and the rear electrical harness routing.

[Dave Howard]

Fuel system was completed at the rear of the car. I did not buy the FFR fuel system so I did not get their charcoal canister. I looked on-line for a suitable canister that would fit it front of the fuel tank but came up empty. so, I decided to make my own. I used a 2" section of PVC pipe. A cap was drilled with many 1/8" holes and glued at one end. The other end had a screw on cap. This cap was drilled and tapped to accept a 90 degree 1/4" NPT to 3/8" barb brass fitting. The assembly was given a few coats of matt black finish then assembled with a small amount of steel wool at each end and the rest of the pipe filled with activated charcoal from the pet supply store. A stainless steel gear clamp was riveted to the frame to secure the canister to the frame. The fuel tank vent line them attached to the barb.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220130&d=1760404721
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220129&d=1760404721

Fuel supply and return line routing was finalized and temporarily secured with zip ties to ensure no interference with brake lines, emergency brake cables and the rear electrical harness.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220134&d=1760404790

[Dave Howard]

Next, the rear electrical harness was unpacked and laid out on the chassis. I elected to start securing the harness temporarily with zip ties at the back end of the harness then move forward. The main reason being I don't like how the FFR wiring instructions shows electrical harnesses coming through the firewall directly behind the dash. I have purchased a few aftermarket aluminum pieces from Snakebite Motorworks . The Firewall Transmission Tunnel Cover, and the Lower Transmission Covers. This forms a nice additional cavity under the FFR supplied front transmission cover. I think I might use this room for harness connections and possibly some of the Aluminator (M6007-A50SCD)/Roush supercharge control hardware. So, the rear harness will come up through the Lower Transmission Cover and be hidden from view in the engine bay.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220133&d=1760404790
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220133&d=1760404790
I busted into the main loom of the rear harness to stuff in the wires for the heated seats. The plug end of the heated seat wires was fished through the large rubber grommet on the end of the rear harness loom. The fuel tank sending unit was plugged in and the wire secured to the top of the tank with some industrial grade "duct tape". The fuel pump connection on the harness was cut off. It is not compatible with the Holley in-tank fuel pump. I will use a simple all weather connector before the trunk floor is secured in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220141&d=1760404953

[Dave Howard]

Once I was happy with the layout of all the piping/cable and wiring systems I permanently secured them in place with stainless steel cable clamps. The 6AN fuel supply and return lines were secured with modified hose separator clamps. The back half of the clamps were drilled out to allow a stainless socket cap screw to pass through. 10-24 rivnuts were installed in the chassis and the clamps held with a drop of blue locktite on the threads

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220135&d=1760404790
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220136&d=1760404897
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220188&d=1760477132
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220189&d=1760477132

[Dave Howard]

The rear cockpit and trunk front aluminum panels were clamped in place and drilled. The rear cockpit top piece was put in place and drilled. The drop trunk was put in place and the trunk floor placed on top contrary to the manual. All pieces were drilled and secured with clecos. One last thing to do in the transmission tunnel is to install the electric E brake equipment and cabling. I've received notice the parts have finally been shipped. Looking forward to fitting it in place. I also took the opportunity to install more sound deadening material in those hard to reach areas in the footboxes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220137&d=1760404897
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220138&d=1760404897
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220139&d=1760404897
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220142&d=1760405677
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220131&d=1760404721

[Dave Howard]

The aluminum pieces for the Firewall Transmission Tunnel Cover, and the Lower Transmission Covers arrived from Snakebite Motorworks, They all required a little tweaking to fit properly and the left lower panel required a slot for the rear brakes line to pass through. The edge of the slot was protected with a rubber grommet. The front tunnel cover was scuffed, cleaned, primed and given several coat of matte black to closely match the finish of the anodized panels. The lower panels were riveted in place. The front panel will be secured later. I intend to bring the rear wiring harness up through the lower transmission panel and through a slot at the very front of the FFR supplied front top transmission cover.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220647&d=1761325517
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220646&d=1761325517
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220645&d=1761325517
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220661&d=1761327723

[Dave Howard]

I previously spent a little time polishing the Fan shroud from breeze and the radiator from FFR. The fan shroud was mounted to the radiator. There is a huge difference in the quality and workmanship on these pieces.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220649&d=1761325910

Next, as per the FFR instructions, I placed two strips of D weather stripping on the bottom side of the FFR supplied stainless steel top bracket and dry fit the radiator in position. Again, the radiator construction quality comes into play. I imagine the radiators were sourced offshore. I wasn't satisfied with the fit. The huge aluminum weld at the bottom of the radiator tanks extended down past the radiator mounting bracket. So in reality, the rad is sitting of the weld. I therefore chose to add D weather stripping to the lower rad support on the frame. I switched out the supplied hardware for stainless steel. I have not yet drilled and secured the rad top and bottom as I want to see how the supercharge heat exchanger will mount in front of the rad.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220650&d=1761325910
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220651&d=1761325910
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220663&d=1761329087
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220653&d=1761326067

I will remove the radiator to make the installation of the front wiring harness easier.

[Dave Howard]

I can't install the electrical fuse panel in the footbox yet as there is still some work to complete. I'm waiting for some components to arrive. I did do some fiddling with the supplied harness and fuse panel. Compared to the components supplied with the 2012 build, I noticed the quality and workmanship (especially the fuse panel) had declined some. Regardless, I'm sure it will function just fine. I attempted to fit the fuse panel in a couple of locations. There is room at the far left of the footbox and the fuse box would be protected. But, the wire runs are too long and the harness would need to be modified. I finally decided to mount the panel on the 1" square tube that runs on an angle down under the steering column. I clamped the panel in place and laid out the harness. This allowed me to plan where connection to other harnesses would take place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220660&d=1761326396

I decided to layout and start the installation of the front electrical harness. I chose to run this harness under the outer most 1.5" square tube coming from the left of the drivers footbox. The harness entered the footbox through a 1.25" hole I drilled in the front outer wall. I had already install sound deadening material on this piece which messed up the step drill I used. The footbox outer side panel was put in p[lace with clecos to ensure no issues. I'm happy with the routing, and the connection with the main harness will be to the left, away from the master cylinders.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220655&d=1761326067

The "elephant ear) for the driving side was clamped in place to determine interference with the wiring harness run. A step drill was used to made a nice grooved slot at the top of the ear for the harness to pass through. The harness then passed over the top of the coilover mount and in behind the radiator. The plug for the cooling fan was snipped off. The fan is controlled by a separate wire in the Aluminator control pack.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220654&d=1761326067
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220656&d=1761326067

[Dave Howard]

As mentioned earlier, I decided not to use the FFR supplied remote reservoirs for the brakes and clutch. The triple reservoir arrived for Scotts Hotrods. I nice bit of machining and the price was quite reasonable. I looked at various options for the mounting location and decided to stay out of the engine bay. This ruled out the right side of the drivers footbox. The unit fit perfectly at the front of the footbox between the two 1.5" square tubes coming out of the footbox. I made a mounting bracket from 2' wide aluminum. Gave it a polish and secured it to the front top of the footbox along with the remote reservoir. The height will be adequate to supply the master cylinders but low enough to allow access with the body in place. I have an order in with Amazon for 1/8" NPT by 90 degree 1/4" barb fittings, some 1/8" NPT plugs and some EDPM synthetic 1/4" hose to finish off the installation. I want to fill and bleed the brakes before installing any aluminum panels, just in case I encounter a leak.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220657&d=1761326396
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220659&d=1761326396
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220658&d=1761326396

[Dave Howard]

I'm using 90 degree 1/8" NPT to 1/4" pipe barb fittings from the bottom of the two reservoirs for front and rear brakes. The holes in the back of the reservoirs were capped off. Holes were drilled through the footbox front panel using a step drill and grommets installed. EDPM hose connected the reservoirs to the brake master cylinders.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220941&d=1761953575
There is a lot of room between these hoses and the pedal mechanism. Next, the braking system was filled with DOT4 fluid and bled. I started with the rear. I used the pedal pump and bleed method. It took a little while to fill the system and a couple of fittings needed to be snugged up. Same with the front. I'm happy the hydraulic braking system is finished. I wasn't looking forward to the possibility of having to re-do a flair. That would have been a disaster.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220929&d=1761951421
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220930&d=1761951421

[Dave Howard]

With the hydraulic brakes complete, the systems in the rear of the car are done and I thought I would start installing aluminum panels. The rear electrical harness had some extra length that I trimmed back so I held off with the panels. The loom for the fuel tank sending unit and fuel pump was re-secured to the top of the tank. Shrink wrap stab connectors were installed and the fuel pump plugged in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220931&d=1761951577

The electric parking brake system (E-Stopp) arrived. It was larger than I expected and didn't fit in the transmission tunnel. Therefore, I started to look for an alternative mounting location. I considered using aircraft cable and a series of pulleys allowing the E-Stopp to be installed at the back of the trunk area. The cable run was too complicated. I then looked at installing the unit behind the dash on the right side. This seemed to be a doable option with a couple of pulleys to bring a cable down into the upper part of the transmission tunnel and back to the FFR supplied parking brake cables.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220932&d=1761951577

I took the E-Stopp apart to see what was involved in changing the cable. I was pleasantly surprised to find the actuator was a simple self contained unit and much smaller.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220933&d=1761951577

It would fit where I wanted it to go without the E-Stopp housing. I just needed to figure out how to mount the actuator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220934&d=1761951577

[Dave Howard]

I thought about removing the FFR mount for the FFR parking brake lever, moving it forward and bolting the actuator into it. I was concerned this wouldn't be strong enough. I then considered a U shaped bracket secured to the 1" square tube running left to right across the transmission tunnel. This could work. There is enough room. My mind went to using a 2x2" steel channel. As I thought about where to find a small piece of channel, i got the idea to use the existing E-Stopp housing. It will be strong enough and I can use the original mounting pin. I took a few measurement and snipped off one end of the housing with a hack saw.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220935&d=1761951755
Mounting flanges already attached. Holes were drilled for the pin securing the actuator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220936&d=1761951755
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220937&d=1761951755

I decided to install M6 rivnuts in the 1" square tubing and use stainless steel socket head screws. The breaking strength of the fasteners is several times greater than the pulling power of the actuator. Red Loctite applied to these cap screws. Next, I used a 3/8" stainless steel threaded eye to connect the actuator to the bracket holding the ends of the FFR supplied parking brake cables. The eye was secured to the actuator with a 3/8" smooth bolt. There appears to be ample room in the tunnel for the TKX transmission and there should be no interference with shifter. Looking forward to having the electrical system completed and powered up to test the E-brake

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220938&d=1761951755

[Dave Howard]

A few more E-Stopp pictures

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220939&d=1761951896
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=220940&d=1761951896

[Mike.Bray]

That's pretty cool how you did the E-Stopp. I'm not sure I would trust Rivnuts in thin wall tubing to hold the force, I would probably bolt through the tube with a backing plate on the far side. But I tend to overkill everything.

[Dave Howard]

That's pretty cool how you did the E-Stopp. I'm not sure I would trust Rivnuts in thin wall tubing to hold the force, I would probably bolt through the tube with a backing plate on the far side. But I tend to overkill everything.

Thanks. I’m looking forward to powering it up. In response to the rivnut strength concern, a M6 steel rivnut in 2 mm steel has a holding strength between 1,200 and 3,000 pounds. The E-Stopp pull force is 600 pounds. So I think it should be OK. If it pulls itself apart I’ll have to go with plan B.

[Dave Howard]

I'm finally at the point where I feel comfortable about permanently securing aluminum panels to the frame. I've chose to overlay panels a little different than the FFR manual calls for. The front trunk panel in first so the cockpit back rests on top. The cockpit back top had also been fit, so it was riveted in place at the same time.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221243&d=1762697227

Left and right floors put in next. Easy does it with the silicone. You only need a slight smear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221246&d=1762697227

The anodized cockpit inner and outer rear panels when in next. I deviated from the FFR instructions with the inner panels by placing then on the outside of adjacent panel tabs. They fit better and the raw aluminum tabs from the adjacent panels are now hidden.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221247&d=1762697367

Black rivets used on these panels going from the outside in. This made for a more attractive appearance on the outside of the cockpit. The rivet stubs on the inside of the cockpit were flattened to make the installation of Kilmat and final interior finish easier. To do this, I first punched out the mandrel head from the rivets. Next I used my shop sledge hammer as a dolly. One end was ground and filed smooth then covered with duct tape. A few taps with a hammer on the other end of the rivets and they smoothed out nicely. No damage to the black rivet head.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221248&d=1762697367

At this point in the build I'm not concerned with the appearance of these panels. They will all be covered with Kilmat and carpet or some other finish I'm considering.

[Dave Howard]

The rear of the trunk was tackled next. Again, deviated from the FFR manual by placing the drop trunk in first. It's a close fit with the raised section of the fuel tank so I installed a protective barrier of self adhesive weather stripping. The FFR manual calls for the use of silicone to secure the inner conners of the drop trunk. After the trunk was in place I secure each corner with a few rivets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221249&d=1762697367

The lower trunk floor was also put in place. I opened the holes for the body mount/quick jack bolts to ensure there was no interference in the future. The U-nuts were installed in the frame. (What a nice improvement from earlier models).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221250&d=1762697367

Trunk sides were also fitted and secured in place. I elected to place the rear of these panels on the inside of the tab on the lower trunk floor. The tab around the fuel tank strap was modified to fit and put in place. It doesn't cover than much. The tank strap hardware was changed to stainless steel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221252&d=1762697436 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221252&d=1762697436https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221251&d=1762697436)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221251&d=1762697436

[Dave Howard]

The drive train has been ordered. The lead time for the M-6007-A50SCD Aluminator, the TKX and the Roush supercharger is a little longer than other components so I had the controls pack and clutch hydraulic master cylinder shipped separately. They arrived which allowed me to tidy up some loose ends in the left footbox. The fly-by-wire gas pedal was modified as per the FFR instructions.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221253&d=1762697436

Unlike the Gen1 version of this assembly, the pedal pad no longer has a swivel end. It was a PITA and I simply tied it back with a zip tie on my 2012 build. The instructions calls for the pedal pad to be removed, flipped 180 degrees and re-secured on a shortened pedal. This was done but I didn't like how the pad was positioned. I modified the pad by removing some of the material from one back corner.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221254&d=1762697436
The pedal was installed and checked for clearance with the footbox inside wall. The pedal touched at wide open throttle so it was removed and the pad notch extended. The next fit had ample room between the footbox wall.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221255&d=1762698209
The original 0.75" Wilwood master cylinder I had intended to use for the clutch was replaced with a larger diameter for easier clutch movement. A stainless steel line with AN fittings was attached and routed over the top of the steering shaft toward the transmission tunnel. I will route this through the same opening in the aluminum panel I made for the rear brake lines. The master cylinder was connected to the Scotts Hotrod remote reservoir. I couldn't come straight into the footbox with a 90 degree barb like I did with the brakes because of frame steel in that area. So, I elected to come down off the reservoir and bring the hose up and to the outside of the footbox next to where the front electrical harness comes through the outer front footbox panel. The line passes through a protective grommet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221257&d=1762698209

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221256&d=1762698209The clutch position switch was also installed. I won't be able to do the final adjustment on the mounting location until the line is connected to the slave and the system filled and bled.

[Dave Howard]

While wrapping my head around the electrical wiring layout I decided to veer off a little. Mostly to take some time and decide on which way to go with the various wiring harnesses.
After an extensive internet search I found a heater option that looks like it will work in the MKV. From the onset of the build, I had decided not to use the FFR supplied heater/AC unit mainly because I wasn't intending on installing AC and I didn't want $1,000 of AC components sitting in the corner of the garage. I found a reasonably priced compact heater at Southern Rods and Parts. They supplied the heater, flexible ducting, the simple mechanical heater control valve , the pull cable (choke cable), The fan switch and the defrost vents. I still need to source ball vents for footbox heating. The knob on the choke cable was painted matt black to match other knobs on the dash and a vintage Lucas style "HEATER" knob was bought to replace the one on the heater fan switch. I used simple 2"x2" angle bracket to mount the heater in the passenger footbox in the same location as the FFR unit would go. It fit perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221652&d=1763384356
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221651&d=1763384356

I then tackled more sound deadening in the cockpit using Kilmat. The rear transmission sides were installed. The pins in the electrical connectors for the heated seats were removed from the plastic plugs in order to fish the wires through holes and grommets in the panels. Seam sealer and aluminum HVAC tape was used to cover any opening in the cockpit panels prior to laying down the sound deadening material. The Kilmat went on quickly in mostly full sheets. Packing paper in the FFR parts boxes made excellent templating material for the smaller pieces. A second box of Kilmat is on order to complete the floors and tackle the trunk.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221653&d=1763384356

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221654&d=1763384356

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221655&d=1763384436

[Dave Howard]

The electrical system comprises a few different harnesses from the Ron Francis kit and the Ford Performance controls pack. I mounted the Ford Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the mount provided in the FFR kit and attempted to find a suitable spot to place it. I don't have the engine yet to install and based on my experience with the Gen1 Coyote installation on my previous build the length of the engine wiring harness will be the limiting factor. The FFR mount for the PCM is not going to work for me for the MKV. The PCM will be in located at the front of the right footbox. I'll either place it on top of the footbox or in front mounted to frame tubing.

The chassis wiring harness fuse panel was mounted in the location mentioned earlier.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221816&d=1763650034

I could only find one LED flasher in the kit components and have ordered another from Amazon. They will be grounded together at the same location. The harness was laid out and the dash clamped in place to see how it all fits. I have the ignition switch mounted in the dash to the left of the steering wheel. The "ignition" leg of the chassis harness is 1/2 way down the harness so I busted into the the loom and moved it much closer to the fuse panel end of the harness. These wires will be cut back to a more suitable length and new ring connectors used when the final connection is made to the ignition switch. Wires not required were removed and the entire harness was wrapped with cloth tape. The harness was laid out again and the main harness secured to the frame with a large modified insulated clamp. The main harness is run over the top of the steering wheel with the "front harness", "ignition" and "turn signal" legs facing down to the left of the steering column. The inertia switch was installed to the right of the steering column. It must be placed vertically with the plug pointing down in order to function properly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221818&d=1763650118

It became apparent the leg going to the "Starter Solenoid" wasn't going to be long enough to reach the starter on the Coyote based power plant. As mentioned in my post #69, I've installed aluminum panels from Snakebite that form a nice "electrical compartment" under the FFR supplied front transmission cover. This will house some electrical components. Here's the plan so far. Mount the battery as per FFR instructions. Run the positive lead back to the "electrical compartment". Attach to one side of the Ford control pack 250A main fuse mounted in the "electrical compartment". From the fuse, run a lead to a battery disconnect switch. This will be mounted on the FFR front transmission cover. A jumper will be installed for memory power. The other terminal of the disconnect switch will be connected to the "Starter Solenoid" leg of the chassis harness, and a line run to the starter.
I also noticed there will be a large amount of extra wire from the rear chassis harness. My plan is to cut this back to a more suitable length and make permanent solder connections instead of the supplied connectors. I'll do the same for the front harness connection and the turn signal connection. This will help to de-clutter an already busy drivers footbox.

I laid out the Ford control pack Power Distribution Box (PDB) and harness. FFR provide a mounting bracket and suggests mounting the box on top of the right footbox. I've decided to mount the PDB in the "electrical compartment" up against the X frame. There is enough room and the FFR front transmission cover will be removable. The cables will come up in behind the dash. The main harness to the PCM is plenty long enough that Ill attempt to route it to the far right of the firewall so the through wall grommet is not visible.

The Ford control pack transmission harness was modified. Two plugs for CMS LH/RH (Catalytic Monitoring System) were removed and the wires cut back to the main harness plug. Hot wires were capped with heat shrink.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221817&d=1763650034

[Dave Howard]

I had a couple of 04:00 mornings with the wheels in motion about my choice of location for the remote reservoirs. Some great comments from Jeff Kleiner that I couldn't get out of my thoughts. So, the brake reservoirs were siphoned empty, the transfer tubing removed, and the remote reservoirs moved to the outside of the right square tube coming out of the front of the drivers footbox. This location still meets my desire to keep the reservoirs out of the engine bay and should be easier to access with the body on. I was able to use the existing holes in the footbox front to pass the transfer hoses through. Sheri helped with the brake bleeding and we should be back on track again. Thanks Jeff.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222146&d=1764210701
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222147&d=1764210701

[Dave Howard]

After my initial electrical layout last week, I got started with modifying harnesses to make them fit, and started with permanent connections. The exact routing for the Coyote Control Pack harness in the drivers footbox was determined. The leg with the plug for the accelerator pedal wasn't long enough, so the loom was opened up and the location where the leg splits off from the main harness was shifted resulting in it being longer, allowing the plug to reach the pedal. In addition, the branch going off to the clutch position switch was shortened by at least 12 inches. The PAS (Passive Antitheft System) plug and wires were removed. The DataLink Connector and MIL branch was also shortened and the connector was mounted to the left of the steering column on the diagonal support at the front of the footbox. The C160A connector was removed. The green wires was soldered directly and only the two wires required for the Coil/crank connection with the chassis harness were kept. The other wires were removed and the ends sealed with shrinkwarp. The branch from the main harness to the ignition switch was cut to length and new ring connectors secured in place. The leads were then secured to the ignition switch. The connectors for the front wiring harness to the main chassis harness were removed. Solid solder connection covered with heat shrink were made. The plug connection for the self canceling turn indicators was also removed and the branch shortened by 12-14 inches. Again, all wire connections are soldered and covered with heat shrink. Once branches of the harness were completed, the loom was re-wrapped with cloth tape.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222152&d=1764214081

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222153&d=1764214081

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222148&d=1764210701

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222149&d=1764210701

The PDB and the 250A fuse were permanently mounted to the X frame at the rear of the engine compartment. Sound deadening was applied to the aluminum pieces from Snakebite.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222150&d=1764210749

[Dave Howard]

We took a break from the roadster build while Sheri and I surprised friends in Huatulco Mexico. Got back into the groove after coming home and getting ready for Christmas. Picked up with the electrical installation.

I started with the main power cables. Although the battery is not yet installed, I laid out the short battery cable from the front of the frame just behind the steering rack, back to the inside of the right footbox where the starter will be for the Aluminator. I took a measurement from my Gen 1 Coyote. Next, I ran a longer battery cable from this location back and up into the "electrical compartment" under the front transmission cover. I went through the bottom of the Snakebite panel. My intent was to limit the number of cables visibly protruding through the firewall. This cable crossed the "electrical compartment" to a cut off switch I installed in the left side transmission panel. It is up high enough so it will be not be visible with the dash in place, and it will not be in the way. The cut off switch has a Keep Alive Memory Jumper installed. Another battery cable runs from the cut off switch to the 250A main fuse. The fuse acts as a main power bus. The Power for the Aluminator PDB is connected here, as is the Alternator cable and the main power leads in the Ron Francis chassis harness designated for the starter. The blue starter wire was removed. Next, controllers for the heated seats and the E-Stopp electric parking brake were installed. Power feed and control wires for the heated seats were cut back to the required length. Wires to the push buttons on the dash will be extended. The power cable from the E-Stopp actuator was brought across the transmission tunnel and zip tied to the rear chassis harness. A hole was drilled in the Snakebite transmission panel. The rear chassis harness and the E-Stopp were brought up into the "electrical compartment". Again, keeping them out of sight. Power for the E-Stopp controller is recommended to come directly from the battery. Therefore the power and ground wires where extended and placed in a separate loom. This was secured to the Ford control pack harness and brought forward towards the location where the PCM will be located. Two other wires from the controller will be extended. One is for an indicator light and the other goes to the ignition switch.

The rear chassis harness connectors and 14" of loom and wires were removed. Connection to the main harness was solder joints protected with heat shrink.

The fuel pump wire in the Ford control pack harness was brought to the fuse panel of the main harness. A connection was made as per instructions to allow the PCM to control the fuel pump. Also, the EFI crank and coil wires in the main harness were connected to the starter wire and ignition relay trigger wire in the Ford harness.

The sending unit harness was taken apart and the electric choke and fan thermo sw wires removed. At the same time, the tachometer signal harness (yellow wire) was put into the harness. A hole was drilled low in the Snakbite front panel and a large supplied grommet installed. The sending unit harness and the alternator power cable were fished through the grommet and brought forward. The connectors on the send unit harness were removed and connections made with solder and heatshrink.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223016&d=1766021773

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223022&d=1766021831

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223021&d=1766021831

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223020&d=1766021831

The bulk of the chassis electrical system is now in place. Ill still need to make final connections to the engine which is due to arrive by the end of the month. The dash also needs to be wired. I will keep the dash harness connectors in case the dash ever needs to be removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223026&d=1766021908

[Dave Howard]

A few more pictures.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223025&d=1766021908
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223024&d=1766021908
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223029&d=1766021963
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223028&d=1766021963
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223027&d=1766021963

[Dave Howard]

Some of the wires and connectors removed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223030&d=1766021963

[Dave Howard]

Today, we worked at tidying up a few wires behind the dash. The blue wire from the E-Stopp controller was extended and run to the "ignition" terminal on the ignition switch. Wires to the heated seat switches were also lengthened. The FFR front transmission cover was modified to accommodate harnesses coming up out of the "electrical compartment". I haven't determined how I will secure the panel in place. It will need to be removable. The dash was clamped in place so I can start making connections to switches and gauges. There appears to be lots of room between the dash and the firewall. The photos shows the harnesses coming up from the front transmission cover are hidden.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223036&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223037&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223038&d=1766099162

[RobHartley]

Just and idea, check out Reddrig's implementation, he cut the upper transmission cover into two pieces one piece hidden under dash and other side screwed for access - completed interior later in his build looks great and you can't see the second panel. Thinking of this for my build as it will allow access to this area. Here is a link to where he shows the cut https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51534-5150-M5-Anniversary-Edition-Build-Thread&p=587904&viewfull=1#post587904
223041




Today, we worked at tidying up a few wires behind the dash. The blue wire from the E-Stopp controller was extended and run to the "ignition" terminal on the ignition switch. Wires to the heated seat switches were also lengthened. The FFR front transmission cover was modified to accommodate harnesses coming up out of the "electrical compartment". I haven't determined how I will secure the panel in place. It will need to be removable. The dash was clamped in place so I can determine the required length for lengthened today. There appears to be lots of room between the dash and the firewall. The photos shows the harnesses coming up from the front transmission cover are hidden.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223036&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223037&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223038&d=1766099162

[Dave Howard]

Just and idea, check out Reddrig's implementation, he cut the upper transmission cover into two pieces one piece hidden under dash and other side screwed for access - completed interior later in his build looks great and you can't see the second panel. Thinking of this for my build as it will allow access to this area. Here is a link to where he shows the cut https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?51534-5150-M5-Anniversary-Edition-Build-Thread&p=587904&viewfull=1#post587904
223041

Thanks for link to Reddrigs build. I like the idea of splitting that front transmission cover. It should make it a lot easier to install and remove if required in the future.

[Dave Howard]

Moved on with electrical projects by wiring the dash. I started by drilling the dash in two locations to install the control access buttons for the vintage gauge tach and speedometer. This caused the clear coat to lift and I've resided to the fact that I'll need to strip and re-spray the dash. I'll do that later when I'm sure there are no other mods required on the dash. The buttons were installed at the 4 o'clock position on each gauge. I did not install the button for the fuel gauge. Once the gauge is calibrated there should be no need for this button. Excess wire on the buttons was removed making for a very short run. Next, the gauge lighting, accessory power and ground wires for the gauges were run to the terminal strips provided. The strips were glued to the back of the dash with some JB Weld. I also used the electronic dimmer control that came with the gauges. The button for this was installed out of sight in the lower lip of the dash pointing down. I then clamped the dash in place and started to make the necessary connections to gauges and switched. First, The Ron Francis (RF) dash harness was taken apart and separated into its three main components. The oil pressure gauge wiring harness uses three wires rather than two. Therefore, I ran the provided harness from the dash area through the grommet at the front of the transmission tunnel forward along the left side. For the oil temperature, water temperature and fuel gauge wiring harnesses I cut off the gauge end of each harness and made connections with the appropriate wires in the RF harness. Wires were cut to length, but long enough to allow the dash to be removed if required in the future. The tach signal wire was installed earlier. I've elected not to install the clock. I NEVER look at it on my 2012 build. Instead, I've opted to install an oil temperature gauge.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223924&d=1768476718
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223925&d=1768476718
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223923&d=1768476718
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223937&d=1768476945

Switch wiring next. The headlight switch is pre-wired in the RF harness....easy. There is a mess of wires provided if a dash mounted turn signal switch is being used. These aren't required since the turn signal control is mounted and wired on the steering column. Most of these wires were cut back and terminated with heat shrink except for a left and right wire. These were connected to the "Turn Signal and High Beam Harness" for the speedometer, and spliced to indicator lights provided in the kit from FFR. Likewise, the high beam wire in the RF harness was connected and spliced in a similar manner. The High Beam switch did not come with a wiring diagram. I spent a few minutes with a multimeter to figure it out and ran the appropriate wires from the RF harness. Same for the horn button.

I had to install switches for the E-Stopp parking brake, the heater fan and temperature control in the lower section of the carbon fibre dash. This again caused the clear coat to lift. The E-Stopp control wires were extended to reach the switch. The "Heater" wire from the RF harness was cut to length for the fan switch. Two separate wires were run to the heater for low and high speed. The "wiper" wire from the RF harness was run in a separate loom and will go through an opening in the firewall along with the main harness to the Ford ECM. The wiper motor was taken out of the box and the mounting location determined. There is no mention in the MKV assembly manual. I referred to the Type 65 manual. I'm glad I did this before mounting something else in this location.

Note...I used stab type connectors to make the connections on the switches. Other connections were made with male/female butt connectors. This allows the dash to be completely separated without having to cut wires. All connections were labelled and wire placed back in loom and wrapped with cloth tape.

I have left a few unused wires in place in case I require a circuit in the future. I'll cut these back once the power train is installed and operational.

With the dash wiring complete, I turned my attention back to the front transmission cover. The cover was modified further to allow cabling to exit from the "electrical compartment" below. Then the panel was cut into two pieces as was suggested by RobHartley and documented in a post from Reddrig's build thread. The upper most smaller piece will be permanently fixed in place. The lower cover will be removable in the event of electrical troubleshooting on the future.

Finally, dash mounts were fabricated and installed. I used some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flat bar to make simple L brackets for the top of the dash, and supports at the bottom. The L brackets are riveted to the under side of the steel dash hoop while the lower support brackets are riveted to the underside of the 2" square tube. I ran some thin self adhesive foam long the steel dash hoop to act as a cushion between the dash and the hoop. The dash is held securely with black screws provided from FFR. Four attachment points along the top and only two supports on the bottom of the dash approximately 6-8" in from the ends.

[Dave Howard]

Additional photos
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223935&d=1768476945
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223940&d=1768477054
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223939&d=1768477054
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223943&d=1768477092

[Dave Howard]

Additional photos
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223942&d=1768477054

And after 6 months, my rims arrived from China.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=223931&d=1768476876

[Dave Howard]

I'm waiting for the power train. Apparently, the engine has been assembled but shipped with the wrong wiring harness. All the other components (clutch, bellhousing, transmission, supercharger) are ready to be shipped. So, I'm tackling a small project with the wheel spinners. To be clear, I've NEVER had an issue with the wheel spinners on my 2012 build. If you keep the threads clean and only tighten them finger tight, the set screw will hold them in place and they will always come off when you want them too. My only minor issue has been the center hub falling out when taking the wheels off. So, for this build I've incorporated the mod suggested by Michael Everson to hold the hub in the wheel. Amazon provided M4 x 10mm stainless steel split roll pins and the 68mm ID stainless steel retainer rings. A small blind hole was drilled into the back side of each spinner hub and the split pins pushed into place using my bench vice. I then decided to give the hubs a few passes on the pedestal buffer to shine things up. The spinner has quite a rough surface that didn't take well to the buffing wheel. I may send these out for powder coat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224583&d=1769088095
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224584&d=1769088095
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224587&d=1769088142
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224585&d=1769088095
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224586&d=1769088095

My battery and mount arrived. I haven't decided where to place the battery. Most builders put the battery up front behind the steering rack. I may place mine in the trunk. I'll wait until the power train arrives. The supercharger kit will include a small coolant tank that I hope can be placed behind the steering rack. Looking forward to this part of the build.

[Sharris2]

I'm going to do the same thing with the roll pins; what size drill bit did use?
Thanks

[Dave Howard]

I'm going to do the same thing with the roll pins; what size drill bit did use?
Thanks

I used a 5/32" drill. It made for a snug fit. I used a drop of oil to drill the hole and a drop to help push the pin into place.

Flying out of Pearson tomorrow PM for a well deserved rest in Trinidad. ERIE

[Sharris2]

Thanks, have a great trip; your leaving at the right time getting away from this cooooold

[wheelindex]

I had a couple of 04:00 mornings with the wheels in motion about my choice of location for the remote reservoirs. Some great comments from Jeff Kleiner that I couldn't get out of my thoughts. So, the brake reservoirs were siphoned empty, the transfer tubing removed, and the remote reservoirs moved to the outside of the right square tube coming out of the front of the drivers footbox. This location still meets my desire to keep the reservoirs out of the engine bay and should be easier to access with the body on. I was able to use the existing holes in the footbox front to pass the transfer hoses through. Sheri helped with the brake bleeding and we should be back on track again. Thanks Jeff.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222146&d=1764210701
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=222147&d=1764210701

How easy is it to get to them to check the fluid level with the body on (or can you). I had seen where PaulB did this location, and was also looking at the location that is to the right of the footbox. I am going to convert it to a 3AN line instead of the rubber hose and spoke to Wilwood on this, but location -- I am iffy about. You have beautiful reservoirs - why hide them?

[Dave Howard]

How easy is it to get to them to check the fluid level with the body on (or can you). I had seen where PaulB did this location, and was also looking at the location that is to the right of the footbox. I am going to convert it to a 3AN line instead of the rubber hose and spoke to Wilwood on this, but location -- I am iffy about. You have beautiful reservoirs - why hide them?

Like my build in 2012, I’m trying to keep as much “stuff” as I can out of the engine bay. It’s going to fill up fast with the Aluminator and supercharger. I’ve also chosen a different spot for the engine PDB and wiring runs for the same reason. It’s documented in earlier posts in this thread.

[Dave Howard]

I'm still waiting for the power train to arrive so I'm doing what I can to keep moving forward. I tackled a mod to the turn signal stock. I'm using a competition dash layout. The dash was assembled earlier in the project. The oil and water temperature gauges are clustered around the steering column and impede the use of the FFR supplied turn signal stock. I reached out to the guys at Blue Hills Customs who figured out how to install a collar around the steering shaft and place the turn stock to the collar on the outside of the dash. The other end of the collar has a "Millenium Falcon" shaped piece that actuates the self cancelling turn signal mechanism. They were kind enough to send me the digital files for 3D printing the parts required. After some consideration I decided to make my own pieces from aluminum. I started by using the FFR supplied turn signal stock locating template to fabricate my own "Millenium Falcon". A few attempts were transferred to card stock and a prototype piece was made from 1/8" aluminium. This design had the Falcon secured to the turn signal mechanism directly using the attachment location of the FFR supplied turn signal stock. That didn't work. The arch of the Falcon as it turns is different than the arch of the turn signal mechanism. This led me to fabricate a small steel piece that attaches to the turn signal mechanism at the turn stock location, but extend out to the left. A smooth socket head bolt was attached to this piece to act as the interface between the Falcon and the turn signal mechanism. A second prototype was made from card stock. After a morning of measuring, cutting, tweaking, I came up with a design that seemed to work. This pattern was transferred to 1/8" aluminum. The centre 3/4" hole was rough cut with a step drill. The outer cuts made with a hack saw and the edges smoothed with filing and sanding. A 1/8" washer/spacer was made to keep the Flacon away from and interfering with the turn signal mechanism.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225668&d=1771171072
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225626&d=1771076805

Next, a piece of thick wall pipe (1.5" OD x 3/4' ID) was purchased for the collar. It slid over the steering shaft and rotates smoothly without binding. One end of the pipe was cut clean and true from the supplier. This end was used for the collar. The Falcon was attached to the end of the pipe after drilling and tapping to accept flat head machine screws. Due to my steering wheel placement, I will require a 2" long collar and I will need to modify the steering wheel hub. I could attempt to tackle this myself with a hacksaw but don't feel comfortable enough that I could cut through the pipe square. A small local machine shop was contacted to help with this. Once I get the pieces back I will determine the location for the turn stock. The collar will be drilled and tapped. I also spent some time fabricating a custom bezel for the steering column. Lots of filing and sanding involved but I think its going to work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225628&d=1771076805
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225630&d=1771076924

[Dave Howard]

I also tackled the sound deadening in the trunk area and installed carpeting to the trunk sides while the body is still off and access is much easier. Openings or gaps between aluminum pieces and the frame were first filling with aluminum tape and automotive seam sealer. A few of the carpet pieces needed to trimmed to fit properly. The frame was protected with painters tape before applying the 3M Super 77 contact adhesive. I'll do some carpeting in the foot boxes also. I still have a couple of holes to drill in the passenger footbox for the heater hoses. I'll do that after the engine is installed and I can determine the actual placement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225631&d=1771076924
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225632&d=1771076924
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225633&d=1771077001
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225634&d=1771077001

[Sharris2]

So I was considering your E stop modification like what you are doing for my coupe; I used the E stop in my MK4. How did you stop the rod end with the eye bolt from spinning?

[Dave Howard]

I haven't done anything specific to prevent the rod eye end of the E-Stopp actuator from spinning. The actuator ram has enough internal resistance that I don't think this will be an issue. If required, the eyebolt could secured to the brake cable bracket with a nut on both sides of the bracket.

I'm anxious to power up my electrical system and give the E-Stopp a test. I really didn't like the appearance of the FFR supplied E-brake handle sticking up from the top of the transmission tunnel.


So I was considering your E stop modification like what you are doing for my coupe; I used the E stop in my MK4. How did you stop the rod end with the eye bolt from spinning?

[Sharris2]

You may want to test it first; I bench tested mine hooked up with the button and it won't stop spinning. I feel the pin in the cable end in the housing is what it needs to engage it to stop. I reassembled mine and it worked fine.

[Dave Howard]

You may want to test it first; I bench tested mine hooked up with the button and it won't stop spinning. I feel the pin in the cable end in the housing is what it needs to engage it to stop. I reassembled mine and it worked fine.

You got me thinking so I put some power to the E-Stopp. Sure enough, the actuator rod had a tendency to spin. To stop this, I put an additional nut on the eyebolt (tension adjustment) to securely sandwich the eyebolt onto the bracket holding the e-brake cable ends.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=225748&d=1771367466

This solved the problem. The actuator rod twists about 15 degrees when the brake is applied then returns back to original position when the brake is disengaged. The mount appears to be fine. I took a video but not sure how to download it to the forum.

[Dave Howard]

Still waiting for the powertrain. The latest correspondence was the assembly is completed and being crated for shipment. Not sure what that means as the order was for ALL the components separately. I intended to do the assembly. I've moved on to installing the seats. First, I placed the seats in the cockpit with the dash roughed in and the steering wheel attached to better understand how the new frame design and seat height will feel. You definitely sit lower in the car than previous roadster variants. Seats were placed as far back as possible to start.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226197&d=1772235051

Rather than having the seat frame perpendicular to the car centerline I found it was more comfortable to have them turned slightly outward. Pointing in the direction of their respective footboxes. Seat bottoms were removed and the seat bottom frame outline was marked onto the floor of the cockpit. I then measure and drew lines for the frame members and seat pan. This gave me the location for possible mounting points.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226199&d=1772235051
My 2012 build included the Installation Kit for Steel Frame "Classic" Seats from Breeze. This raised the front of the seat and allowed 4 positions of adjustment. It was really tough to reach the nuts holding the incline piece in place and I wound up keeping the seat in one location. I'm 6'2" and my line of sight is through the top of the windshield frame. The redesigned MkV frame has lowered the seat by a few inches which will certainly help. I didn't want the seats sitting flat on the floor. Rather than mounting the seats with the Breeze product, I decided to make my own spacers, and decided not to incline the seat like my last build. The spacer on the passenger side was made out of a length of 1/8" 1.5"x1.5" angle iron. Two 13' lengths of angle were cut then welded together to make a 1.5"x1.5" square tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226201&d=1772235132
My 110 wire feed welder was at the maximum of its capabilities. I made several stitch welds along both sides of the tube where the edges of the angle iron met. I'm using the FFR supplied seat tracks on the drivers side only. The height of the seat track is 7/8" so the final dimension for the drivers side spacer was 1.5"x5/8". This would ensure the two seat sit at the same height. The 1.5"x 1.5" angle iron for the drivers side was cut with an angle grinder to 1.5"x 5/8". The drivers side spacer was not welded initially. The bottom half of the spacer was placed on the floor and mounting holes located and drilled through the seat pan and the spacer. Stainless steel 5/16"-18 button head socket head cap screws from Amazon were used to secure it in place. They were fed from the underside of the frame up so both ends of the fastener could be accessed when the spacer was welded.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226204&d=1772235443
The length of the fasteners were cut so the end would fit in the small space within the spacer. Next, the top of the spacer was loosely put in place and the mounting location for the seat track was determined. Holes were drilled and the two halves of the spacer welded together on the bench. The spacer/seat track assemblies had to be mounted to the frame parallel to each other, thus allowing the seat track to move smoothly and not bind. The location of mounting holes in the seat frame was determined and holes drilled. FFR supplied stainless steal button head screws were used to secure the seat to the tracks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226206&d=1772235516
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226207&d=1772235516
The passenger side installation was easier. The welded spacers were laid on the floor and holes located and drilled through the seat pan. Again, fasteners going up through the floor and secured with a nut inside the spaced. To get the nuts on the end of the button head cap screws inside the spacer a piece of tape was attached to the end of an open end 1/2" wrench and the nut stuck to the tape. The wrench was fished down the spacer and eventually the screw caught the nut. I'm happy with how the project turned out. The spacers will be heading out to powder coat on Monday. The best $20 I'll spend that day. I purchased plastic end covers for the spacers from Amazon to finish things off.

[Dave Howard]

Seat installation spacers ready for powdercoat.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226208&d=1772235516

[Sharris2]

Glad it worked out; I didn't do the modification as it wouldn't work in the coupe. I ended up putting it behind the driver's seat area then routed the cables up and behind the passenger seat; works well.

[Dave Howard]

The power train has finally arrived.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226715&d=1773359952
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226746&d=1773493081

- Ford "Aluminator" M-6007-A50SCD
- Roush supercharger P/N 422292
- Quicktime bellhousing
- McLeod RST twin disc clutch
- External hydraulic clutch slave
- Tremec TKX

The package was purchased through the FFR Canadian representative, Valin Custom cars. Ryan Valin ordered the package through Forte Parts Connection. The components arrived fully assembled including the power steering pump. Details about the Aluminator and supercharger are included in the attached photos.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226760&d=1773505189
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226761&d=1773505189
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226757&d=1773493417

My Gen 1 Coyote (2012) was shipped with cast iron lifting brackets. The newer Coyotes still have the mounting holes at the back of the right cylinder head and the front of the left cylinder head....but no lifting brackets. Luckily, I still the brackets from my 2012 build. But, they are with my son in British Columbia. Already in them mail back to me. Meanwhile, I've started to prep to power train for installation. Sensors for the Speedhut oil pressure , oil temperature and water temperature have been installed. Oil temperature will be taken from the oil pan. Fit for the FFR supplied headers was confirmed prior to removing the header studs.

There is a mess of piping and tubing that I don't like the looks of. I need to do some research through the Roush literature to determine what is needed and what can be removed. I'll be changing some hoses out for stainless steel braided. There is provision for the heater hoses. Roush provide a nice set of coil covers that help hide at the messy wires and piping.
Looking forward to receiving the lifting brackets and getting the power train in the car.

[Dave Howard]

A few more pictures.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226750&d=1773493184
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226751&d=1773493184
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226752&d=1773493368
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226756&d=1773493417
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226749&d=1773493184

[Ejzajac]

WOW!
The Aluminator with the Roush looks incredible and makes my Gen 3 Coyote fit to power a lawn mower! I have the same power steering pump and external hydraulic clutch slave. Interested in your thoughts on plumbing them and location for reservoirs, especially the PS reservoir. There's just not a lot of room left in the engine bay. Curious what you are considering for a coolant overflow system? The Snakebite panels really let one hide a lot of components out of the engine bay. Hopefully with a removable front tunnel cover, they are reachable in the future.
Ed Z

[Dave Howard]

WOW!
The Aluminator with the Roush looks incredible and makes my Gen 3 Coyote fit to power a lawn mower! I have the same power steering pump and external hydraulic clutch slave. Interested in your thoughts on plumbing them and location for reservoirs, especially the PS reservoir. There's just not a lot of room left in the engine bay. Curious what you are considering for a coolant overflow system? The Snakebite panels really let one hide a lot of components out of the engine bay. Hopefully with a removable front tunnel cover, they are reachable in the future.
Ed Z

My Gen1 Coyote build was tuned in at just shy of 490 HP. Lots of fun the drive. It builds power quickly from 3,500 rpm to the rev limiter. This new build is going to be totally different. I’m anxious to see how this one handles.
I was pleasantly surprised to see the 2 reservoirs and the coolant pump that came with the supercharger are relatively small. I’ll determine mounting location once the engine is installed. I haven’t mounted the battery yet in case it needs to go in the trunk. I’m thinking I’ll use stainless steel braided hose for all the visible plumbing, including the heater hoses.
For coolant overflow, I bought a Mishimoto tank. Same as I have on my MkIV. That’s not going to easily work for this build. Again, I need to get the power train in the chassis and see what room is left.

[PNWTim]

Well, I'm thinking that's probably going to push it along nicely!

[Dave Howard]

I still have the lifting brackets from my Gen 1 Coyote build in 2012.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227007&d=1773944340
They are with my son in British Columbia. I looked at purchasing another set and found the cheapest was $180 US with shipping. Ummmm....For one use I don't think so. Needless to say, the originals have been shipped back to me. I hope Ford didn't change the bolt pattern. I need to remove the engine from the shipping stand before installing the starter and the engine/transmission mounts.

Meanwhile, I started looking at some of the plumbing and electrical connections. There are two vacuum hoses off the supercharger that aren't needed. One goes to the brake booster and the other goes to the EECPV (Canister Purge Valve). This is also not being used so the hoses were removed and the taps plugged with silicon end plugs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226985&d=1773943863
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226986&d=1773943863

The other thing noticed is the "Y" off the water pump for the expansion tank connection and the heater hose connection. My engine did not come with a "Y". The top connection that supplies the cab heater has been blanked off. Therefore, I will need to source another.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227008&d=1773945788

[Dave Howard]

I got started with the installation of the Low Temperature Radiator (LTR) for the Roush supercharger intercooler. The kit from Roush is designed as a bolt on for a late model Mustang GT. I first had a look at the supplied mounting brackets to see what could be salvaged. The LTR has two mounting point at the bottom and two on the left and right side. I installed the lower bracket to the LTR with the supplied rubber bushings and fasteners.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226987&d=1773943958
The assembly was then put in place in front of the FFR radiator for the initial fit. The LTF fit easily within the space. The lower mounting bracket was too long, so a few inches was removed from each end.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226988&d=1773943958
I was fortune that two mounting holes in the Roush bracket lined up with the FFR lower radiator support. Holes were drilled through this support and the LTR secured at the bottom. I used 3" socket head cap screws and several larger nuts to act as a spacer, keeping the LTR and the FFR radiator separated by about 3/4".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226989&d=1773943958
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226990&d=1773943958

For the two side supports, it was apparent the Roush supplied brackets could/would not be used.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226991&d=1773944040
New brackets were fabricated from 1/8" aluminum. The bracket attachment points to the LTR were traced onto the back of a cereal box. From there, the rest of the brackets were drawn, cut out and test fit. Bend locations and mounting points on the FFR frame were determined. The rough brackets were cut from the aluminum plate and edges finished with hand filing. Bends were made using a piece of angle iron from the seat installation project to act as a form for the bend radius. These brackets were then mounted to the LTR and the location of holes for mounting to the FFR frame were determined. I decide to install 5M rivet nuts in the aluminum brackets and secured them to the frame with socket head cap screws. Once satisfied with the mock up, the aluminum brackets were given a polish and the steel lower bracket from Roush was removed for powder coat. This bracket came painted, but the paint was already starting to flake off. I'm happy with this installation. Next will be finding spots for the reservoir tank, the expansion tank and the pump.

[Dave Howard]

LTR side bracket fabrication. Templates drawn.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226993&d=1773944040

Rough cut brackets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226994&d=1773944040
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226995&d=1773944100

Brackets secured to frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226996&d=1773944100
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226998&d=1773944100

[Dave Howard]

Final product.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=226999&d=1773944168

Photos with body in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227000&d=1773944168
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227003&d=1773944217
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227006&d=1773944217
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227005&d=1773944217

[Dave Howard]

The supercharger intercooler has its own reservoir tank, pump and degas bottle. All designed to fit nicely in a late model Mustang. I had to decide where to place these items in the front of the chassis in addition to the battery. It became apparent, there wasn't enough room for everything. So, the battery was placed in the trunk on the passenger side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227486&d=1774783600

Rivet nuts were used for the 4 mounting screws. Two of these were into steel frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227491&d=1774784622
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227489&d=1774784622
Additional 4 gauge battery cable was purchased. A rubber grommet protects the cable as it comes through the bottom of the trunk aluminum. The cable runs down the passenger side of the transmission tunnel next the the E-Stopp actuator and is secured in place with stainless steel rubber covered clamps. The cable was placed in split loom and taped for protection. This cable runs forward towards the starter. Cable to power the rest of the car can be seen in the photo coming down from a grommet in the lower transmission cover installed earlier. A short ground was connected from the battery to the frame in the trunk.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227487&d=1774784622
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227492&d=1774784656

[Dave Howard]

The supercharger reservoir tank and pump will fit nicely just behind the steering rack. A piece of cardboard was used as a template for a platform I will fabricate from a piece of 1/8 or 3/16" aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227486&d=1774783600

The tank has two mounting points on the bottom and one near the top. The pump is attached to the tank with a short section of hose. It comes with a large band clamp to mount it to the aluminum plate.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227500&d=1774796869
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227501&d=1774796869

It appears the degas bottle will fit on the steel angled brace just to the left of the center of the chassis. Its a small narrow tank and I don't believe it will interfere with other components. The top of the degas bottle will be slightly lower than the top of the LTR, but this will not be a problem.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227490&d=1774784622

Hoses will be custom and I plan to use braided stainless steel. At this point, there doesn't appear to be any interferences. The engine bay will be quite full. I still need to find a spot for the engine degas tank and a small reservoirs for the power steering.

The power train was hoisted off the shipping pallet and moved to the front of the the car. This gave me room to inspect more closely. Good thing. One bolt missing holding the Quicktime bellhousing to the back of the engine. Also, it gave me an opportunity to inspect the clutch slave cylinder and power steering pump. NO literature for these components was provided and there are NO identification markings on them. I'll have to make a fast call to the supplier on Monday. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227494&d=1774784801

Update: The supplier was contacted. The slave is a "no-name". If I have any issues I'll change it out. Thats the beauty of running an external slave. NO need to remove the transmission to change the slave. Not sure why anyone would consider using an internal slave to actuate the clutch. As for the power steering pump, its a knock off of a OEM GM Type 2 pump. All good to know if maintenance is required in the future.

[Dave Howard]

The intercooler tank and pump platform was fabricated from a piece of aluminum plate. It was cut to fit around the frame and was just wide enough to allow it to slide into place from the side. Tank and pump mounting locations were determined and holes drilled for fasteners.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227861&d=1775436908

The angled bracing of the frame in the center is not on the same plain as the main frame members so stainless steel spacers were made to go between the frame and the aluminum plate.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227862&d=1775436908

I elected to install rivet nuts in the frame and secure the plate with socket head cap screws.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227860&d=1775436908

I cut a small section of rubber hose that came with the Roush kit for the connection between the tank and the pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227866&d=1775437417
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227867&d=1775437522

It was important to get this equipment installed before dropping the engine in, as space will be quite limited.

[cv2065]

Looks great Dave!

[Dave Howard]

We completed the final prep before finally putting the power train in the car. The engine mounts were taken apart and spacers provided in the kit were added.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227680&d=1775134145
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227682&d=1775134145
Then, the engine was hoisted from the shipping crate and the shipping supports removed. This allowed the mounts to be installed and torqued to spec. It also gave room to install the starter. You get what you pay for. The starter provided had NO manufacture information. I'm sure it came from off-shore. Mounting holes were off just enough that the bolts wouldn't line up properly. A little tweeking with a dye grinder helped to make it fit. Grrrrr. I removed the alternator, and the Roush supplied bracket with the tensioner for the blower drive belt. This had been installed by the supplier as per the installation instructions from Roush. One of the mounting bolts that also holds an idler is drilled into an unused "boss" at the front of the timing chain cover. The instructions call for a hole to be drilled and tapped in the "boss" to accept a 70mm M8 bolt. When the tensioner bracket was removed, this bolt was loose and could not be tightened. I initially thought the bolt hole was stripped. To my surprise, the hole was intact and with full thread. WHAT????? After an hour of troubleshooting and a couple of calls with the supplier we determined the hole was tapped for an M9 bolt. GRRRR. Try to find a 10.9 grade, 70mm long M9 bolt. We are still sorting that one out and I will probably resort to drilling the hole to M10 which is much more common than M9. Its a good thing I took that tensioner bracket off.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227982&d=1775790786
The last components to be removed to make the engine installation easier was the long steering shaft between the front of the footbox and the steering rack, the fuel pressure regulator, the transmission shifter and the oil temperature sensor from the side of the oil pan.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227983&d=1775790786
I used moving blankets to protect the anodized aluminum and got Sheri to assist with the actual installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227980&d=1775790786

We took our time and made small moves and frequent checks. After about an hour, the engine was sitting on the mounts.
Initially, it appeared as though I would need a spacer on the right side as there was a large gap. With some gentle persuasion and manipulating the level of the end of the transmission, everything went into place. The mounts were left loose until the transmission support was installed and the final position for the transmission was determined. It required an additional 7/8" spacer between the transmission mount and the transmission. The spacers were made from the same 1.5" diameter 6061 aluminum thick wall tube I used for the turn signal project. The tube has an inside diameter of 0.75". The last thing to complete the drive train was to torque the drive shaft mounting bolts to spec. I used the 20mm long bolts provided in the kit.

It's a big milestone having the engine/transmission in place. I now have a long list of projects to finish or start. There's oodles of room in the transmission tunnel. I've started to re-install some of the pieces I removed from the engine for the install. The transmission shift mechanism was reversed when it went back in place. This brought the handle mount forward about 5 inches.

[Dave Howard]

Additional pictures.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227981&d=1775790786

Engine resting in its new home.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227986&d=1775790828
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227985&d=1775790828
I'm glad I didn't put the remote reservoirs on the engine bay side of the frame tube.

Transmission spacers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227984&d=1775790828
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227987&d=1775790828

[Dave Howard]

Lots of space in the transmission tunnel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227989&d=1775790862
Shifter position.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=227988&d=1775790862

[Dave Howard]

I had to order an M10 tap and 70mm M10 bolt to repair the mistake made when the supplier tapped an M9 to mount the supercharger tensioner bracket. The instructions from Roush call for the hole in the boss to be drilled 35 mm deep and the treads to be at least 25mm. Well....another GRRRR moment. The hole was only drilled 25mm deep. After tapping to the new M10x1.25 thread I attempted to install the tensioner bracket but found the bolt bottomed out before coming to rest on the bracket. I added two washers to the bolt head and got the supercharger belt tensioner installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228077&d=1775998112
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228074&d=1775998112

The alternator was also installed and the steering shaft secured back in position.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228073&d=1775998112

The hydraulic clutch line was attached and the system filled with DOT4 brake fluid. It was an easy bleed process. I'm happy with the external slave cylinder. A VERY easy process to change the cylinder compared to an internal hydraulic release bearing if there are issues in the future.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228076&d=1775998112

Battery cable and main power feed to the car was completed at the starter. Cable eyes were secured to the cable by filling the end with solder then heat shrinking the connector. Its a tight spot and taxing on arthritic hands. No worries. Another item checked off the to do list.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228075&d=1775998112

[Mike.Bray]

The hydraulic clutch line was attached and the system filled with DOT4 brake fluid. It was an easy bleed process. I'm happy with the external slave cylinder. A VERY easy process to change the cylinder compared to an internal hydraulic release bearing if there are issues in the future.[/URL]

You are far more likely to have an issue with the throwout bearing than the hydraulic actuator in my experience.

[Dave Howard]

You are far more likely to have an issue with the throwout bearing than the hydraulic actuator in my experience.

I agree 100%. Having the external slave reduces 1 less thing that could go wrong that would force you the aggravation of removing the transmission. I don’t want to experience that again.

[Dave Howard]

The heater plumbing project was tackled next. Unlike my 2012 Coyote build were I used a simple cable pull/push control valve, I elected to use an electronic heater control/bypass valve for this project. The valve assembly was taken apart and spacers replaced with a simple mounting bracket made from 1/8" plate aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228307&d=1776546617
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228306&d=1776546617
This allowed the valve to be mounted behind the heater core/fan inside the passenger footbox. Rivet nuts were installed in the square tube. Spacers were made from stainless steel tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228308&d=1776546617
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228305&d=1776546617
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228309&d=1776546617

The transition from inside the footbox to the engine bay was via a Vintage Air double bulkhead plate. Connections on either side were 90 degree Vintage Air O-Ring heater fittings. The spot chosen for the bulkhead connection took into account the routing of heater hose to and from the control valve, and to and from the engine. Regular heater hose was used inside the footbox. T bolt stainless steel clamps were used at all connections inside the footbox. Prior to the final installation, the inside of the footbox was taped off, sprayed with 3M Super 77 and interior carpeting installed.

Heater hose in the engine compartment will be black nylon covered. All hoses in the engine compartment will be similar. The heater hoses will be run after I receive the Roush coil covers. I can now move forward and close up the passenger footbox.

[Dave Howard]

Heater plumbing additional photos

Bulkhead plate location determined.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228312&d=1776546676

Holes drilled and frame taped for carpet installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228311&d=1776546676

Engine bay side connections. Bulkhead place and connectors were polished prior to installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228314&d=1776546676

Carpet installed and final connections made.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228310&d=1776546676

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228313&d=1776546676

[Dave Howard]

Heater plumbing additional photos
​https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228315&d=1776546695

[Dave Howard]

I ordered the coil covers from Roush that are designed to fit the Eaton's TVS R2650 supercharger. Part number is 422161. I wanted to have these covers before making heater hose, fuel line and electrical connections at the engine. While waiting for these covers I started to install sensors back on the engine that I had removed for the engine/trans installation. The oil temperature sensor was initially going to be installed in the right side of the Moroso oil pan having a 1/2" NPT plug. Unfortunately, the pan was too close to the frame square tubing and there wasn't enough room to install the sensor. I had to install the sensor on the left side of the pan. The left plug has a 20mm thread and is designed to take the factory low oil level sensor. The Aluminator did not come with this sensor. A 20mm by 1/8" NPT adaptor was purchased and the oil temperature sensor from Speed Hut installed. Factory and Speed Hut oil pressure gauges were also installed. I was about to complete the wiring connections when the coil covers arrived. I switched gears.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228699&d=1777511562
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228698&d=1777511524
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228697&d=1777511485

The Roush coil covers are designed to fit a late model Mustang. The left side cover fit perfectly. The right side had some slight interference issues with frame tubing. A few minutes with the Dremel tool and a die grinder bit and the right side cover slid into place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228691&d=1777511332
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228692&d=1777511332

With the coil covers in place it was easy to determine clearance and routing for the heater hoses. These were tackled next. All hoses in the engine compartment will be black nylon covered. I had nylon covered stainless steel reinforced heater hose from another project. The Roush supercharger kit included coil cover mounting brackets with heater hose mount locations. The hosed ran neatly on either side of the supercharger. Hide-a-clamps secured the heater hoses at both ends and a 12AN separator used near the through wall connections.

[Dave Howard]

Heater hoses connected and secured in place to the Roush brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228694&d=1777511332
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228693&d=1777511332
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228696&d=1777511371
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228695&d=1777511371

[Dave Howard]

I originally purchased an engine cooling system expansion tank from Mishimoto. I used the same tank on my MkIV but this tank wasn't going to be an option worth pursuing with the MkV frame. I therefore went with the more compact expansion tank from VMP. This tank fits nicely in the center of the frame directly behind the radiator and allows for easy connections to the engine and the radiator. A mounting bracket was fabricated from 1/8" aluminum plate. Rivetnuts were installed in the fan shroud to secure the mount, and rivetnuts installed in the bracket to secure the expansion tank, An additional rivetnut was put in the frame tube to secure the lower mount tab on the expansion tank. The bracket was given a polish before final installation. Connections to the tank will be made after top and bottom rad hosed are fabricated and installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228703&d=1777514138
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228700&d=1777514138
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228701&d=1777514138
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228702&d=1777514138

[Dave Howard]

Engine cooling expansion tank installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228704&d=1777514175
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=228705&d=1777514175